Winter Horse Care

Horses kept out on winter pasture may need supplemental feed if grass is buried under an excess of snow. In any case, it is best to feed more hay than grain. Never feed more than 1 pound of grain for every 100 pounds of horse or your horse may acquire contracted tendons, especially if he is young. Hay will enable the horse to maintain warm and constant body temperature.

Cold weather doesn't usually affect a horse if they have had lots of time to prepare. Wind and wet can create more hardships and problems. Well fed horses can handle temperatures down to minus 40 degrees if there is no wind and they stay dry. Wind ruffles the hair and destroys its insulating qualities. A wet horse loses body heat 20 times faster than a dry horse does. Moisture causes the hair to lie down reducing its insulating effect.

Do not clip a horse in the winter if he is staying outdoors. Although a horse cools down faster after a ride if he is clipped he can easily catch a chill as well as he loses the insulating value of his long winter coat. When it is cold, tiny muscles in the skin make the hair stand up, increasing the insulating effect.

If you blanket your horse in the winter you may be jeopardizing your horses natural insulation. A normal winter coat is far more insulating than most blankets so when you add that heavy blanket or pile several light blankets on, you can actually make your horse colder, because it flattens out his coat and thus destroying its insulating value. If a horse gets wet and starts to shiver, you may have to put a blanket on to help him dry off and maintain his body temperature.

Some of the newer blankets are warmer than wool blankets because of the materials used these days. If you need to use a blanket, look for one that has a waterproof and windproof outer shell with a light insulating filler material. The inner shell should be smooth so it will not chafe the skin. The lightness of the blanket will not press the horses' hair down as much as a heavier one. Watch for ones that have a waterproofing finish, which keeps moisture out and holds heat in. The disadvantage to these ones is that they can crack in temperatures below minus 30 degrees Celsius. Regardless of the type of blanket you use, a proper fit is essential.

Horses wintering in colder climates need to carry more weight. Thin horses don't winter as well. A thin horse is a cold horse. A long hair coat as well as a layer of insulating fat will keep the horse warm during those long cold days. Encourage your horse to put on a little extra weight to help them keep their body temperatures at a high. Watch that your horse doesn't put on too much weight though or you may be causing him more problems such as founder.

In cold weather horses tend to spend more time sheltering rather than grazing so it is a good idea to feed and water them where they can find protection from the wind and wet conditions.

Old, unhealthy or injured horses tends to have a lower resistance to cold and less ability to bounce back after storms. They will need to carry an extra amount of flesh and always have a barn or shelter to protect them from the elements. A three-sided shelter is adequate for a horse that is used to wintering outside providing it faces away from prevailing winds and is situated so the sun can shine into it. Horses prefer the warmth of the winter sun to a cold shelter and like to be outside even on the coldest of days. Horses do not like to stand in mud though.

In extremely cold temperatures feed should be increased, as the horse will burn more calories to maintain body heat. If the horse doesn't get enough to eat, he'll burn fat and muscle tissue to keep him warm, which will cause him to lose weight.

Hay is digested by a fermentation breakdown process that releases heat. Grains, digested more quickly, are good sources of concentrated energy, but produce little heat in comparison. In extremely cold temperatures a horse may be fed all the hay he can eat. It is better to increase his hay rather than his grain.

Remember to watch that your feed stays dry or it can mold. Hay, which has been freshly snowed or rained on, is fine but if it has been sitting in the wet conditions for more than a few hours it could become moldy. Hay which is sitting on top of a stack, which is not protected from the snow and rain, can become moldy. Also the hay, which is sitting on the ground, can draw moisture from the ground. It is a good idea to keep your hay on pallets and cover it with tarps or a solid roof. Pellets and grains can also become dangerous when subjected to moisture.

A horse needs a constant supply of water in the winter, which will aid him in digesting his roughage and help prevent colic. If a horse does not get enough water he can become impacted. Horses do not drink as much water in the winter as they do in the warmer temperatures but they must always have enough available to them. An average horse will drink approximately 55 litres (about 12 gallons) of water a day in the warmer temperatures but may reduce his water intake in the winter. If a horse does not have a supply of water available to him he will eat snow, causing them to lower their core temperature, which can make them more susceptible to the cold. Horses will also not get enough water from snow.

Horses are better off to go barefoot in the winter as they have better traction and the snow and ice doesn't build up in their feet as badly. If a horse is to be used in the winter and needs shoes, you should talk to your farrier about shoes, which could give more traction on snow and ice. Borium shoes are excellent for traction any time of the year but if they are not available the farrier will be able to recommend a shoe, which will work.

Spraying the bottom of the hoof with a non-stick cooking oil will help prevent snow and ice from sticking to the bottom of the hoof. Keep your horses hooves trimmed regularly though they don't grow as fast in the colder months so you may be able to leave them a couple of weeks longer than you would in the warmer months. We have our horses trimmed every 8 weeks in the winter, although it will also depend on the horse. One of our horses' needs to be trimmed every 6 weeks in the winter, while another one is fine when we leave him for 10 weeks.

A horse requires regular exercise in the winter whether you are just turning him out in a paddock or pasture or riding him. If you are riding him it is a good idea to use a quarter sheet to protect his loin area from getting cold. Also remember that it is essential to cool him down thoroughly after your ride and also covering him for an hour afterwards will ensure that he doesn't catch a chill.

Daily grooming is a must in the winter because fungus and bacteria thrive in cold wet conditions. You will also be aware of any skin and weight problems when you groom your horse regularly. Check your horse's ribs at this time. You should feel a slight layer of fat so that you have to press to feel the bone. If you can't feel the ribs he is too fat. Also check for any hair loss on his neck and back and watch his lower legs for any small scabs or scratches. Infection around pasterns occurs in moist, muddy environments. Pick out your horse's feet daily and watch for any signs of thrush.

Although frostbite is not common in healthy horses, certain conditions can place them at risk. If your horse is left out in extreme cold temperatures where they are unable to find shelter from the wind or they are not able to stay dry, they may get frostbite. Another factor is if they do not consume adequate calories and forage. Barns with no or poor ventilation may contribute to this problem because of higher humidity from the horses urine and breath.

Frostbite usually affects the ears first. Most horse owners don't notice the frostbite until the horses' ear tips fall off. In severe cases a horse can get frostbite in its feet when left standing in cold, wet conditions for extended periods of time.

If you are unsure as to your horse's condition when entering those nasty cold days, your local veterinarian could give him an evaluation. Also, don't forget that he still needs to be dewormed in the winter.

Before entering winter is a good time to have your horse's teeth checked. It is harder to chew hay than grass. Floating a horse's teeth could also aid in digestion and prevent colic.

As long as a horse can stay dry, find shelter from the wind and have adequate food and water, they can survive temperatures down to -40 degrees for extended periods. Also remember to allow them to climatize themselves gradually to the cold.

Hay and grain should be continued as supplements until there is real feed value in the grass. This usually happens around May or June.

Signs that may show that your horse is suffering are:
       You can feel more than his first two ribs
       Snow melts on his back rather than accumulating
             (not enough fat insulation and precious body heat is escaping)
       He's frequently shivering and doesn't stop after a couple of seconds
       He clamps his tail tightly against his body
       He constantly paces (moreso than usual)

Once you have your horse's health and comfort assured, you can go back to enjoying its company.