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Applique: A process in which metal cutouts are soldered to the metal used as a base.

Bench Bead: A hand-made bead (often made by Navajo silversmiths) molded, punched and soldered together. The finished bead will have a ridge around it. Machine made sterling bench beads are also often found in jewelry. One way to identify a hand made bead is to note that the silver around the stringing holds will be turned out because the beads are punched from the inside.

Casting: A process in which melted metal is poured into a mold to form the item. In eBay listings of Native American jewelry, you may see many types of cast jewelry, including sand cast, tufa cast and lost wax cast.

Cluster: A design term referring to a process in which small, shaped stones set close together in a circular pattern. Many Zuni and Navajo silversmiths use cluster designs in their jewelry.

Concho, Conch or Concha: A design term referring to a round or oval decorated piece of metal, often shaped and decorated with stamp work. Often these conchos are linked together to form belts.

Faux: Fake.

Fetish: A carved figure (bird, animal, person, weapon, etc.) said to embody certain powers. Fetishes are often strung together in necklaces and other jewelry. Fetishes are used all around the world, and imitations are often sold as genuine. Fetishes will be the topic of a guide, now being developed.

Hallmark: An engraved or stamped artist's signature or symbol.

Heishi: (hee-shee). The oldest known form of southwestern jewelry, pre-dating the introduction of metals. The word means "shell", but these days pieces of shell or mineral are smoothed together on sandstone sanding wheels to create a smooth effect. The pieces are drilled before grinding, and are afterwards strung into necklaces. A string of good heishi will have a uniform consistency and feel almost "serpent-like". Sliced pin shell is often used as a cheaper substitute for heishi.

Inlay: A process, especially popular among the Zuni, in which gemstones or shell pieces are cut, shaped and set into silver, either raised or level with the surface of the silver.

Matrix: The veins in gemstones.

Naja: A crescent pendant, similar to an upside down horseshoe that symbolizes luck. Najas are very popular in southwestern jewelry - especially in squash blossom necklaces.

Needlepoint: Turquoise or other gemstones cut with two pointed ends.

Overlay: Two pieces of metal of identical shape are cut. Then, a design is hand cut in one piece, which is then soldered to the second piece. Often, the inside of the design is oxidized to show up black against the polished metal.

Oxidation: A chemical process (natural or otherwise) in which a metal, such as silver, is blackened as a reaction to oxygen. Oxidation is also known as "tarnish".

Patina: Change in the surface of a metal object resulting from natural aging due to wear. Patina is sometimes confused with "tarnish".

Petit point: A modified version of needlepoint that uses very small round stones.

Repousse: Designs punched into the back of a metal object with various design implements so that a raised design appears. When a design is punched into the surface of a piece, it is known as "stamp work".

Soldering: A technique used in making and repairing jewelry whereby two pieces of metal are joined by applying a molten metal which has a lower melting point than the two metals being joined.

Squash Blossom Necklace: A traditional piece of Navajo jewelry usually composed of bench beads with a horseshoe pendant (naja) at the center and decorative beads, often resembling squash blossoms, placed at regular intervals on the sides. Squash blossom type necklaces are now made by many Native American silversmiths, regardless of tribe. They are also often manufactured by non-Indians.

Stamp Work: Designs punched into the surface of metal with various design implements. When it is punched into the back of a piece, and the design appears on the surface, it is known as "repousse".

Tarnish: The blackening of the surface of a metal object due to oxidation, often in the presence of sulphur.

Teardrop: A modified version of needlepoint that uses stones with one end rounded and the other end pointed.

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Here is an alphabetical list of terms you may see in listings of Indian, or Native American, jewelry: