Woodcock's cows overheard having a gossip circle:
"Moo, girls, what do you think about all that talk about sheep? Moo, me
think that they should talk less about mutton and more about milk. Moo, me too."
Tapora
Tapora is a farming area with little or no visitor facilities located about 2
hours north of Auckland, on Kaipara Harbour west of Wellsford. Kaipara Harbour is the
largest natural harbour in the southern hemisphere. It is known for its
extensive mangrove estuaries and shorebird populations.
We visited with friends who have a large diary farm at Tapora.
They milk nearly 700 cows a day as the cows enter and circle in a large
carousel as it slowly turns and music plays. We understand that it also makes a
great setting for barn dances.
|
Woodcock's cows overheard having a gossip circle:
"Moo, girls, what do you think about all that talk about sheep? Moo, me
think that they should talk less about mutton and more about milk. Moo, me too."
|
The area has tremendous dawn chorus of bird song every morning. Small roads lead to deserted dunes and beaches. This was our first really rural stop and made us realize that New Zealand does not have nearly as much external yard and roadway lighting as even rural Canada - this made the millions of southern constellation stars that much more brilliant.
We went to the hospitable Tapora golf club for a sheep barbecue and
golf tournament, a special occasion for which the usually resident sheep had been
banished from the greens. Barbecue $5, wine or beer $1 per glass, wine served by
beer glassful. This was early in our trip and an early indicator of the super
hospitality shown to visitors by kiwis wherever we traveled.
Dargaville
Along with the Thames area south of Auckland, it is probably the flattest land in
New Zealand and the longest bit of straight road on the North Island. Nearby is the
Matakohe Kauri Museum, a super display of the lives of early kauri bush workers
and kauri craftsmanship.
Aranga Beach and Bluff
Most of the west coast of the North Island is wave-swept, wide, fine sand beach
backed by dunes and broken only by the occasional rocky outcrop, harbour or river
mouth. New Zealand's longest "driveable" beach is Ripiro Beach (yep, much longer than
"90 mile") of which Aranga is part. There are numerous access points onto the
beaches, but inexperienced drivers often get stuck in the sand (or surf) resulting
in expensive tows or extensive damage. Insurance is void on beaches, and rental
policies prohibit beach driving.
Maunganui Bluff, Aranga Beach, West Coast |
Kaihu
A modern farm and small hostel located on the southern edge of one of the largest
remaining tracts of New Zealand's once extensive kauri forests. The hostel has
developed a short nature walk and we were treated to and pre-midnight kiwi whistles
that never seemed to quit. They varied from shrill to bass whistles sounding like
a slowly squeaking gate. And no bugs for star gazers and kiwi listeners!
Waipoua Kauri Forest
Mature kauri trees are thick in diameter, virtually straight and branch-free from
the ground to their crown. Kauri is a beautiful straight-grained, flawless, nutty
brown, easily crafted wood which was highly valued for structural timbers and ship
building. It is still much sought after for furniture, crafts and construction of
the finest yachts. Kauri forests were once abundant through much of Northland and
Coromandel, but extensive logging from early settlement until WWII has reduced the
stands of large kauri to a few treasured and protected remnants. Large pieces of
kauri wood are now so valuable that it is salvaged whenever possible from building
demolition or dug from the ancient swamps in which they had fallen (ref. Ancient
Kauri Kingdom).
Thane Mahuta |
Notable examples of large living kauri are easily accessed by road
and short walks in the Waipoua Kauri Forest: 1200 year old Thane Mahuta ("Lord of
the Forest") is New Zealand's largest tree; nearby is Te Matua Ngahere ("Father of
the Forest"), nearly as large. Mature kauri are massive, straight trees with all
the branches at the top and none along the main trunk. A five meter diameter tree
will have the same diameter and no branches for most of its 30 meter height. The
main highway twists through the mature kauri stands of the Waipoua for 15 to 20 km.
The short walks to these two trees are a "must do"; additional walks in the area
are also highly recommended. Mid-day is the most crowded time on the shorter walks
when the tour buses arrive. Kaihu, Kohukohu, Rawene or Oponui are convenient places
to stay when exploring the area.
Hokianga Heads
Entrance to miles of sheltered, mangrove-edged harbour that was
busy during kauri logging, now a much-reduced recreational fishing port. The Heads
are massive, high sand dunes flanking the harbour entrance which is noted for its
rough water and fast currents. There are good views of the area accessible by car
from the southern heads at the site of the old signal station.
Opononi
Rawene ferry - a small, frequent, cheap ferry. The Rawene village by
the south terminal has some interesting history and small shops.
Kohukohu
We stayed at Tree House, an eclectic mix of orchard, farm, lodge, hill top rooms
and 60's atmosphere plantation overlooking Hokianga Harbour. A great dawn bird
chorus. "Piglet", the pig, was raised in downtown Auckland on scraps from a
neighboring gourmet restaurant. Now an adult that receives endless petting from
guests, it lives a life of country leisure. We were told that the beaches at
Mitimiti were wonderful, wild and unpopulated. We gave the 30 or 40 km of secondary
road to Mitimiti the distinction of being the crookedest, hilliest and slowest road
that we found in New Zealand, gave up and left it to a future trip.
90 Mile Beach |
90 Mile Beach at Te Kao |
Ahipara - Ninety Mile Beach
You can drive onto Ninety Mile Beach at several locations, of which Ahipara is the
southernmost. Ninety Mile is designated a state highway but driving on it is not
recommended without local knowledge for navigating areas of soft sand and
car-swallowing tides. Car rental contracts specifically prohibit driving on Ninety
Mile Beach.
Ninety Mile beach is popular for surf fishing, especially when the wind
is blowing out from the shore. We drove onto the beach at Ahipara and again at Te Kao
near "the Bluff". Numerous tour options are available if you want to see more of it.
Most tours start and finish in either Paihia or Kaitaia and travel on and off the beach
at Waipapakauri and Te Paki stream. Sledding down the high sand dunes near Te Paki is
popular. But, afterwards, be prepared to find sand in places that you never thought
appropriate.
Kaitaia
The largest commercial center north of Kerikeri - a good spot to make sure
you have adequate food and fuel before going further towards Cape Reinga. To really get
away from it all, go to Herekino, about 20 minutes travel south of Ahipara (definitely
a side-roads route between Kohukohu and Ahipara) for fishing or horseback riding and
drink at the pub. Basic accommodation is supposed to be available at the nearby Tui
Inn, but we already had other arrangements.
Cape Reinga
The northernmost point of road in New Zealand (nearby Surville Cliffs on
North Cape are further north, but relatively inaccessible). It overlooks an
ancient lone pohutakawa tree where souls of the dead are believed to depart to rejoin
the ancestral spirits in Hawaiki (which means both "Homeland" and "Underworld"). Rough,
rugged, dramatic beaches, big surf and dangerous currents.
Cape Reinga |
Popular beach treks go west from Cape Reinga to Cape Maria van Dieman (18 km / five hours return) and on to Kahokawa Beach (an additional 20 km return). For the fit and crazy, you can walk the length of Ninety mile beach from here, but it is 134 km one way, no facilities, no shelters, limited water and infamous sand flies. You can also walk east from Cape Reinga to Sandy Bay and Tapotupotu bay.
Cape Maria van Dieman seen from Cape Reinga |
The nearby small beach, big surf and campground at Tapotupotu
Bay is also car accessible and a good spot to stop for a picnic lunch or camping.
It is recommended that vehicles not be left unattended at the heads of such tracks.
Pick up and drop off can be pre-arranged with some Cape Reinga tour operators.
Parengarenga Harbour and gleaming bright silica sands can be seen off to the east of
the Cape Reinga road. The silica sands are pure enough that hundreds of tons are used
annually in glass-making.
We stayed at North Wind Lodge Backpackers, New Zealand's northernmost backpackers
accommodation. Run by a local kiwi and his Canadian wife (who operate Rocky Mountain
Express van trips from Calgary during the Canadian summer/kiwi winter) it is adjacent
to the super dunes and truly golden sand beach of Henderson Bay. Word of
caution - during a stormy, windy night, we had a knock at our door and opened it to a
much-lost Frenchman who needed a light and direction. He had been surprised at both the
speed at which it got dark and the intensity of the darkness. Ours was the only light
he had been able to see after several hours of stumbling along the cliff top in the
black and wind, and there was still a ways to go to his hostel.
Houhora - Ancient Kauri Kingdom
The Ancient Kauri Kingdom is a shop selling items crafted from (surprise!) kauri wood.
Goodies range from the usual tacky trinkets to magnificent furniture tables, chairs,
and benches. The shop was created to surround a one-piece circular staircase crafted
from a 10 000 year old kauri log which was dug from a nearby swamp. Touristy but well
worth a stop.
Waganer Museum, Subritsky homestead and Houhora Heads campground - a vast collection
of collections, from kauri gum, shells and butterfly collections, and old jewellery to
many, many chamber pots, china,
glassware, rifles and antique machinery all in massive jumbles. A highly recommended
stop. Museum attendants are keen to explain the various artifacts and start and
display all the working machines. Kauri gum is the crystallized sap resin deposited
by mature kauri. It can be carved similarly to amber, except that it is not fossilized
nor as hard (or expensive) as amber. Flammable and reputed to have antiseptic
properties, it was the basis of a huge industry. Tons were exported for use in
varnishes and linoleum. It is now more usually found by hobbyists and beachcombers.
The campsite fronts on to Houhora Harbour. The water is clear and warm, the beach
composed of mounds of shells.
Matai Bay
About 25 km up "Inland Road" west of Doubtless Bay lies the lovely little
campground and twin beaches of Matai Bay, nothing else here. Quiet, protected, super.
Manganui
An old fishing village with some interesting galleries and craft shops
located on the main highway. Super fish and chips (you choose the type of fish you
want) at the harbourside fish market. Nearby Taipa is the first place that Kupe landed
in New Zealand on his voyage of exploration in AD800.
Taupo Bay is a small beach community just outside the entrance to Whangaroa Harbour. It
does not appear to have any accommodation or services for travelers, but would be a
good excursion launch site for independent kayakers.
Kahoe - Kahoe Farm Hostel
Actually a hilly family farm with accommodation in a hostel
and a guest house further up the hill. A friendly involvement place, but with a quiet
reading room. It is home of the "Rural Kahoe Football Club" (soccer), and 1 metre yacht
racing circuit, one of 22 one-metre radio-controlled model boat racing clubs in New
Zealand. Stefano, the host, is noted for his enthusiasm, pizza, soccer pools, kayaking.
He coaches soccer for local youth, encourages hostel sporting events and challenges
guests to a hilltop run (or walk) to scenic lookouts. Guests also get to meet and feed
"George", the eel. ALL hostel activities cease for group gatherings in the garage to
watch, cheer and wager on the outcome of televised European and English Premier League
soccer games.
Whangaroa Harbour and Marlin Hotel
Whangaroa has a billfish club, the adjacent Marlin
Hotel is noted for its policy that allows neckties for weddings and funerals only.
Across the bay, at smaller Totara North, is the Gumdiggers Tavern which has its walls
covered with memorabilia from byegone shipping lines and English gollywog dolls. A
great spot for lunch and cold beer while looking at the collection. The sawmill at
Totara North (which is for sale) is reputedly the oldest operating mill in the country.
Kayaks are available for rent from Kahoe Farms Hostel to explore the rugged coastline
of Whangaroa Harbour or its extensive mangrove tributaries.
Graveyard memorials and ornamentation, Matauri Bay
|
Wainui - Cavelli Islands - Matuari Bay
If you have adequate time, we highly recommend traveling between Whangaroa and Paihia
by way of the winding Wainui Road. It takes you past Tauranga Bay, a nice small
beachside RV trailer park, the lovely little campground and beaches at Wanui Bay, and
Pipiri and Te Ngaire beaches. Northwind Kayak Expeditions has a good reputation locally.
It operates out of Tauranga Bay located along the rugged coastline just outside the
Whangaroa Harbour headlands. We were cautioned against leaving our car unattended at
beaches along this area.
Shell beach at Matauri Bay |
Matauri Bay is one of the nicest little beach towns on the
coast. Matauri Bay has a lovely shell beach, campsite and holiday park and memorial to
the Rainbow Warrior which was sunk by the French secret service in Auckland Harbour in
1985. The wreck was relocated to the Cavilli Islands where it is a popular dive
destination.
Kerikeri
Kerikeri is the main commercial centre for Northlands. Shopping for fresh citrus and
kiwi fruit at the roadside stands is a must in this area. This area also introduced
another new fruit to us, the "fejole" (spelling?). It is a refreshing sweet fruit with
a unique taste something like a guava.
Paihia
Paihia is the hussle tours, water sports, bars and accommodation centre for the Bay of
Islands. A beach fronts most of the length of the town. Accommodation varies in price
and activity levels for all tastes. Tommy's Hostel was quiet, clean and had lovely
balcony views of the Bay.
Kayak tours or rentals to go up the Waitangi River to Haruru Falls is popular. You may
also take a half-day (return) walk through the mangroves from near the Waitangi grounds
and golf course to the falls. There is abundant bird life along the bush walk,
especially Tui birds and native New Zealand pigeons. Haruru Falls Road climbs to
the Mt. Bledsoe lookout with views over the Bay of Islands. It has one of those horizon
viewpoint pedestals found on so many hilltops. With its 1935 tongue firmly placed in
cheek, the Mt. Bledsoe pedestal pointers indicate that London, England is nearly
equidistant (about 11 800 miles) in all directions from Paihia, but it is only about
7800 miles straight down (up?) through the center of the earth.
The Waitangi grounds and great waka (canoe) used to be free to the public with entrance
fee required only to the Treaty House. The largest war canoe in the world is a treasure
of Maori craftsmanship(pic). However, in an attempt to raise funds for restoration and
maintenance of the Busby (Treaty) house, local management initiated a fee to the entire
site beginning 2002 which is a relatively expensive ripoff for families unless you
desparately want to include the marginally interesting Treaty House in your tour.
(yes, it is a historic site, but still just looks like any other upscale pioneer
house to me) Museums and other Maori exhibits throughout New Zealand offer cheaper
ways to learn of the important Waitangi treaty.
Aside from the above rant, the great waka is named "Ngatokimatawhaorua" after the
canoe in which the great polynesian navigator Kupe discovered New Zealand in AD 800
and is well worth seeing.
s/v R. Tucker Thompson |
Urupakapaka Island, Bay of Islands |
Fuller's Cream Trip
A friendly knowledgeable Captain and crew
make this cruise through the Bay of Islands and Hole in the Rock justifiably famous.
We recommend that you take a lunch with you so that you can spend the lunch break
walking about on Urupukapuka Island and some of its uncrowded beaches. Urupukapuka
Island also has a campground accessible only via the Fuller ferry to Otehei Bay.
The Bay of Islands was an unusually brisk 20C (68F) when we were there in mid-March.
Fullers also operates an underseafish viewing excursion and tourist accommodation on
Urupakapaka Island. There are many other Bay of Islands tour options ranging from the
replica tall ship sailing vessel "R. Tucker Thompson" to the high speed "Exitor"
thrill ride. Many tourists go only to "the Hole in the Rock". Try to take one of
the cruises, such as Fuller's Cream Trip, that also stops at some of the islands
and beaches that make this area famous.
Hole in the Wall, Bay of Islands
|
We were variously told that the name of the small island with the Hole in the Rock
was either Motukokaku Island or Piercy (maybe old french for 'pierced'?) Island.
Not sure which one, if either, is more correct. We did go through the hole on the
Fullers ferry and saw Cape Brett the lazy way, from the water. More energetic
travellers can hike (20 km / 8 hours each way) from near Rawhiti and stay at the
Cape Brett hut - next time?
Russell
Life in Russell is considerably quieter and more relaxed than Paihia. Usual access
to Russell is via foot ferry from Paihia or car ferry from Opua a few miles south
of Paihia. A much longer, winding road also connects Russell with other east coast
hamlets. Given adequate time and independent transportation, this opens some wonderful
coastal territory. Typical of kiwi hospitality, while just waiting for the ferry at
Opua, we were invited to the Opua Cruising Club pig roast (held each Thursday) or its
Pat's Irish Stew night (Sunday).
View of Russell Boat Club anchorage
|
We were also invited to the Russell Boat Club dinner night. The picture shows the
anchorage in front of Russell Boat Club as seen from balcony of our hostel, the End
of the Road Backpackers). We saw a tattered yacht burgee posted in the Boat Club
and signed by one of its members with a position of 59 degrees and some south and (1982?)
date written along the hem about her rounding of Cape Horn -
"Two days of gales beating to get past cape, did not want to go further
south because of fear of ice. Sailed Paihia to England 212 days" (solo).
A Morepork (owl) hooted us to sleep.
Russell was settled during early days of whaling in the South Pacific, making it
one of New Zealand's oldest towns. It was a major whaling ship destination, the
first capital city and still contains a few historic buildings and many tourists.
There are a number of well-preserved old buildings in Russell and the Duke of
Marlborough Hotel, the oldest licensed establishment in New Zealand. Accommodation,
food and drink was fairly expensive along the waterfront ("the Strand") but the food
is as good and the beer a lot cheaper in the nearby Duke of Marlborough Tavern. The
classy waterfront Swordfish Club will also sign in visitors to its interesting bar
for a low cost cold beer in fine surroundings.
Oneroa Bay beach (or "Long Beach") is a lovely beach about a 20 minute walk (or 1 km
drive) over the hill from the Russell wharf. There is a secluded little beach a
short walk (no road access) over the rocky point at the northern end of Oneroa Bay
beach. After we spent a lovely afternoon there with the whole little beach to
ourselves, we were advised by the owner of the hostel that the little beach is nudist.
Whangarei
Whangarei is a medium sized city with medium size bustle and noise and adjacent to
New Zealand's major oil refinery at Marsden Point. It was unusual for us coming from
an oil-rich nation to regard an oil refinery as a tourist attraction - Whangarei does.
Whangerei has a huge, new full service marina at the attractive Town Basin. Interesting
that its daily moorage rates for 30 ft yachts were about half of that charged in the
Pacific northwest, but its annual rates were comparable. However, the weekly and monthly
rates are not measured by the foot, but are the same for yachts from 30 to 50 feet
long!
For its size, Whangarei did not seem to have a lot of choice for budget accommodation
available. We stayed at Tropicana Holiday Park (motel, campground, flats) on the
outskirts of Whangarei at Tamaterau. With a very flat foreshore safe for kiddies,
low tide exposed an additional 250 m of beach.
Whangarei Falls and swimming hole is located off Nguruguru Road in a pretty little park
and gorge in northern Whangerei city. Whangarei is also close to some super beaches.
We heard about Pataua Beach and lagoon to the east of Whangarei and drove there to
discover that the road from the south dead-ends at a pedestrian crossing of the
(warm) lagoon and short walk to a long beach absolutely covered in tiny shells.
The north side of the pedestrian bridge is accessible by about a 30 km winding road
from the north.
Ocean Beach, near Whangarei |
Ocean Beach
We took a wrong turn on the way to somewhere else and ended up at beautiful Ocean
Beach, some 35 km southeast of Whangerei. Ocean Beach itself is nice, but the
unnamed beach to the north, a sandy climb over a rocky point, is outstanding. The
water was incredibly clear (and 20C). We shared the several kilometers of this north
beach with one other person, a resident fishing on his day off. He told us it was
unusual to see a tourist there, that it was used mostly by locals. Told us that he
did not mind the nudists that used the beach, because they always cleaned up after
themselves, but that a while ago, more wind-surfers were starting to use the beach
and were not so thoughtful. He asked them if they kept a watch posted on the
bluffs to watch for the sharks that kept breaking off his fishing lines. No sharks have
been seen, but the number of wind-surfers using the beach has declined.
Wairu River and Falls is located near Titoki 27 km from Whangerei, relatively
unheralded large vertical waterfall at the end of a gravel road. To get there, we
drove through miles of well-tended upscale ranches and dry-stone fencing with
rolling hills in the distance.
Bream Bay
Just south of Whangarei is Bream Bay and about 35 km of the clearest, warmest
water and finest powder sand that we found in New Zealand. The Hen and Chickens
Islands a few miles offshore make this a pretty stretch of coastline. The formal
name for the point of land at the north end of Bream Bay near Ocean Beach is
called Bream "Head"; the point at the south end of Bream Bay is called
Bream "Tail".
Waipu
We continued down the coast road from Whangarei past the super beaches and
clear water off the Waipu lagoon and Waipu Cove and Langs Beach of Bream Bay
to more populated Mangawhai Heads, then inland back to friends at Tapora and
on to Auckland. The Hostel at Waipu lagoon would be a beachcomber, sun worshiper
paradise with fewer people along the beach than in most of the surrounding area.
The Waiwera and Orewa beaches are easily accessible by bus from Auckland. They
were recommended to us for those with limited time to roam away from Auckland.
They are pretty, indeed.
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