The (unofficial) InFocus X1 Projector FAQ
What is the InFocus X1 Projector?
The InFocus X1 is a video/computer projector designed to meet the needs of both the Home Theater market and the business market. It is being heralded by many as a breakthrough product for its affordable high-value features. With the introduction of this projector, creating your own big screen home theater has suddenly become a price-competitive option for the average home entertainment consumer. Read on for more information.
 X1 Overview
 Setting Up
 Ongoing Use
 About this FAQ
[0.1] What is covered by this FAQ?
This FAQ will attempt to cover all aspects of the X1 Projector itself, and also touch on some closely related topics.
Because it is likely that the X1 will be the first projector owned by many of the readers of this FAQ, I will also try to provide a basic overview of using the projector for Home Theater, and pointers to additional resources for further reading.
This FAQ is not a buyer's guide for selecting a projector; there are no comparisons to other brands or models. I will also not be making any product recommendations, though I may provide information to assist in locating certain products if they are not widely available.
[0.2] Where does this information come from?
This summary of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) is a collection of knowledge from a variety of sources, primarily but not exclusively from:
The FAQ is a compilation of information from both official and unofficial sources. I cannot make any guarantee as to the accuracy of the information, so use it at your own risk. When in doubt, go to the official sources.
In rare cases when I think it would be especially useful for the reader to know which information was obtained from (or confirmed by) an InFocus source, I will mark that information as follows:
This FAQ is developed and maintained by an X1 owner, not by InFocus or any reseller. It is not a marketing tool. Please excuse me if my enthusiasm for the product sometimes makes it seem like one.
I am located in Canada so the FAQ will probably have an unintentional North American bias, but I am happy to include International information when it is provided to me. You may also notice some Canadian spellings of words.
[0.3] How can I contribute to the FAQ?
If you have any additions or corrections for this FAQ please email them to the FAQ Editor at technut @ shaw.ca .
I regret that it will not be possible to provide individual credit for contributions, but they are genuinely appreciated by myself and the readers of this FAQ. Thank you!
[0.4] How can I add a link to the FAQ from my web page or in my messages?
First off, let me thank you for wanting to link to the FAQ. It's a great way to assist fellow X1 owners or to lead others to discover the X1 for themselves.
There are several ways that you can provide a link to the FAQ depending on your preferences and whether you are adding it to a web page or to a message. For your convenience I have created a page of examples with copy&paste code.
[0.5] May I distribute the FAQ?
I would prefer that you not distribute a static copy of this FAQ since it will eventually become out of date. It would be better if you were to provide a link to the original, which is maintained at http://members.shaw.ca/technut/x1faq . But if you do decide to make a copy then please be sure to include the version number and a link to the maintained original FAQ.
[0.6] Recent revisions to the FAQ
 X1 Overview
The InFocus X1 is designed to be a "crossover" projector, one that is suitable both for business presentations and for home entertainment. If your budget was the only thing holding you back from front projection, the X1 is what you have been waiting for. It sets a new milestone for value for money at the low end of the projector price range, and it has features that make it a great first projector for a home theater.
I will not be tracking the best price or recommending where to get the best price. Please do not email me to ask. I suggest you search the many Internet price-finder engines or browse through the price-deal forums such as FatWallet.com (not an endorsement... simply an example).
The Manufacturer's Suggest Retail Price (MSRP) for the InFocus X1 is:
Street price appears to be MSRP or close to it (less than 10% discount). There have occasionally been deeper discounts or coupon deals from certain retailers. Some refurbished units are also starting to appear in the market for substantially less, but with a much shorter warranty.
[1.3] Is the projector sold under any other names?
There are several other projectors which appear to be relabeled versions of the X1. It is not clear whether there are any differences between these models and the X1 itself (other than as noted).
What differentiates the X1 from the 4800 model from a hardware
[1.4] Where can I buy the projector?
I will not be recommending any particular outlets or resellers (other than the manufacturer). Please do not email me to ask.
The X1 is widely available from online retailers, and at the InFocus Store. The InFocus website also has a Where to Buy feature to help locate an online or local reseller. You might also find it at your local business equipment or home theater retailer, and it has recently started to appear in some home electronics outlets.
The primary considerations when buying are to purchase from a reputable company and to check their return policy and restocking charge, in case you decide you don't like the projector after you have taken delivery and used it for a bit. When comparing prices, remember that they likely do not include any additional shipping and handling charges (which can vary widely) and any applicable taxes or duties (some of which may not apply depending on whether you purchase inside or outside your own state/province/country).
It is also recommended that you view a demonstration of the projector
prior to buying it, if possible. If you cannot find a demo in your local
area, you may be able to get a free loaner projector from InFocus to test
authorized vs. other sales channel? any blacklisted dealers? warranty issues if bought out of country?
Is there more businesses that purchased the X1 or people using it as a
budget home theater projector?
 Official Product Information
[2.1] InFocus X1 General Information
[2.2] InFocus X1 Support
[2.3] InFocus Store
[2.4] InFocus Partner/Reseller Programs
[2.5] InFocus Press Releases
 Other Sources of Information
[3.1] Product Reviews
[3.2] Discussion Groups
[3.3] Web Sites
[3.4] Related Information
[3.5] Related Press Releases
 Behind the X1
[4.1] History of the X1
Future of the X1?
A new FAQ for the (as yet unreleased) ScreenPlay 4805 is under development here.
2x color wheel
[4.3] Inside the X1
Note that opening your X1 (other than simply removing the lamp housing) will likely void your warranty. So spare yourself and use this information to satisfy your curiosity instead.
[4.3.1] Is there a Service Guide available for the X1?
Yes, the X1 Service Guide (.pdf / 2.6MB)
The small fan behind the color wheel is a 60mm Minebea Model 2406KL-04W-B50 4600 RPM 18.36 CFM. It is rated at 34db.
If you have any pictures of the guts of the X1, or any other items of interest, please send them to me. Thanks.
[4.4] The Technology
[4.4.1] What is this DLP technology that the X1 uses?
ExtremeTech - Projection
"The reason we choose to optically sync the DLP chip to the color wheel is so that it automatically calibrates itself at all times. This way, the colors remain perfect forever, never requiring re-calibration as other projectors do."
"The color wheel motor should last a very long time. I do not have the X1 info in front of me, but in general motors like the one on the color wheel in the X1 have rated lifetimes on the order of 75,000 hours. The color wheel is not user replaceable, and is also not considered a component with a significant field failure rate."
How does the response time (i.e. on/off time for a pixel) of the X1
compare to say, an LCD such as the Z1? Are DLPs generally
"faster" than LCDs?
[4.4.2] What other electronic components are used in the X1?
Texas Instruments DDP1000 DDM Controller
Texas Instrument DAD1000 Waveform Generator
The X1 has a PixelWorks chip and the Faroudja chip. We chose to use the Faroudja chip for deinterlacing because it does a much better job than PixelWorks does. We still use the PixelWorks chip for its other functions such as GUI, scaling, keystone correction, and color space conversion.
Faroudja DCDi chip FLI2200
The following are based on the Service Guide Block Diagram, which I have come to believe is incorrect (I will attempt to confirm):
Philips SAA6714 Graphics Processor
 Setting Up
[5.1] Your Viewing Room
bias lighting - In brief its supposed to cut down on eye strain due to the high contrast of a dark room and bright projector. It also gives the screen and image a more 3d appearance almost as if its floating. Some people do rope lighting attached to the back of the screen with a dimmer of some type.
using mirrors for larger image
[5.2] Distances, Image Sizes and Projector Placement
[5.2.1] How can I tell how large an image the projector will throw at a certain distance?
The X1 has a zoom lens, so there is actually a range of image sizes available from any particular distance. The best way to determine that range is with the use of the X1 projection calculator provided by InFocus. Remember that the distance is measured from the front of the lens to the screen. You will need to leave 16 inches or so behind that point for the rest of the projector and to allow room for cables.
The X1 throw ratio [(distance from screen to lens) / (screen width)] ranges from 1.89 to 2.27.
[5.2.2] What height should I have my projector at?
Once you have determined your screen placement, there is an optimal height for your projector. That height will allow you to have an undistorted image without making any corrections. If your projector is too high or too low, you will have to tilt it and your image will narrow at the top or bottom (known as trapezoidal distortion, or "keystoning"). The projector has a feature called keystone correction which can compensate for this, but it does so at some expense of image quality. The X1 has very good keystone correction, so you may not find the use of it objectionable, but that is a personal judgment. If you wish to avoid having to use the keystone correction, use the following information to determine the optimal projector height.
When the projector is in 4:3 mode (the default mode), the image offset is 112.2%. This means that if you have an image 10 feet high and you are projecting from a table top, the bottom of the image will be 1.22 feet above the center of the lens. If you are projecting from the ceiling with the projector installed upside down then the top of the image will be 1.22 feet below the center of the lens.
When the projector is in 16:9 mode, the image offset is 132.9%. This means that if you have an image 10 feet high and you are projecting from a table top, the bottom of the image will be 3.29 feet above the center of the lens. If you are projecting from the ceiling with the projector installed upside down then the top of the image will be 3.29 feet below the center of the lens.
Any variance from these heights will require tilting the projector and having to correct the distortion with the keystone correction feature.
[5.2.3] Can I place the projector a bit to one side?
The X1 does not have any keystone correction for horizontal displacements. If your projector lens is not horizontally centered at a right-angle to the screen then your image will have an uncorrectable trapezoidal distortion, being vertically shorter on one side than the other. Note that the center of the lens is not in the center of the projector, it is actually offset by 65 mm (2.56 inches), so offset the center of your mount by the same distance in order to compensate.
[5.2.4] How do I properly align my projector and screen?
To align a projector to the screen, you should follow these steps:
First adjust the roll (in terms of pitch, roll, and yaw, this means rotate about the lens axis) until the bottom of the screen is aligned to the bottom of the image when table mounted, or the top of the screen when ceiling mounted.
Then adjust the yaw (if there were a flagpole sticking out of the top of the projector, rotate about that) until the top edge is aligned to the top of the screen for tabletop, and the bottom edge for ceiling mount. When you do this the image will move sideways, so you will need to physically move the projector or screen sideways when making this adjustment.
Once both are aligned your projector is square to the wall and level with the screen.
With keystone correction set at 50 (ie. none), measure the length of all four edges of the projected image. Your projector is properly aligned when the top=bottom and left=right.
I won't be viewing 4:3 sources so I was thinking about masking to
get rid of the light spill in the 4:3 area while viewing 16:9. Has anyone
tried placing some black paper over the lens cut out block the gray bars?
I'm worried about some light being reflected off the edge of the paper and
onto the image.
Using the InFocus mount (P/N SP-CEIL-007), the distance from the
ceiling to the lens center is 144mm without the extension arm. With the
extension arm, the distance is adjustable between 306mm and 386mm.
the thread for X1 mounting is a metric M4 thread
 Making the Connection
[6.1] Inputs and Signals
The projector has 3 video input ports. A VGA port for computer connections or, with an adapter, component video (480p or higher). An S-Video port for video connections and, with an adapter, component video (480i). A composite video port (480i).
VGA port: 1080i, 720p, 576p, 480p - Component and RGBHV; Computer connections (1024x768, 800x600, 640x480)
S-Video port: 576i, 480i - Component and S-Video - Faroudja DCDi processing
Composite port: 576i, 480i - composite video - Faroudja DCDi processing
The VGA port can be used for 1080i, 720p, 576p, and 480p sources (both
RGB and component with a VGA breakout cable). For 480i and 576i, there is
a special adapter than comes with the projector that attaches through the
s-video connector. Only 480i, 576i, s-video, and composite use the
Faroudja processing, so these sources may look better than 480p and 576p
from a progressive DVD player that does not have Faroudja inside.
NTSC and PAL
So if I figure correctly, a native 1.85 image would be 848x459
active. Not losing much there on top and bottom. we will be seeing 800x450
of those. 1.85:1 cropped to 1.78:1
The X1 in 16:9 mode will crop a dvd from 848 x 480 pixels to 800 x
450 pixels. But, it delivers very good pq quality because it is doing 1 to
1 pixel mapping, so there are no scaling errors or artifacts.
For the X1 which is SVGA, we chose not to scale the image vertically in order to achieve a native display of 480i/p content (or as close as you can get with a square pixel display), so you will get the sharpest possible output due to the lack of vertical scaling. XGA displays will need to scale both vertically and horizontally to fit the screen, so the image should not be as sharp. However, XGA and higher displays of the same technology have smaller (and therefore less noticeable) pixels so the viewer should be able to sit closer to the screen without seeing stairstepping of the pixels. If you're thinking that an XGA LCD is better than an SVGA DLP, I would like to warn you that in general pixels are easier to see on LCD displays due to their lower aperture ratio.
Note that in "native" and "16:9" modes for NTSC sources there is no vertical scaling. The projector takes a 480 line source and crops it to 450 lines before displaying it.
The horizontal lines for anamorphic and non-anamorphic DVDs is the same
All NTSC DVDs are mastered at 720x480. Since this is a non-square pixel format, the 720 columns will need to be scaled horizontally to either 640 (non-anamorphic) or 853 (anamorphic) before playback on square pixel displays like digital projectors. The X1 does this horizontal scaling and then crops the image to 800x450 for anamorphic DVDs.
By "square pixel" I mean that the actual pixels are square. For instance, if you have a 4x3 pixel array and the outer dimensions measure 4" x 3", then the pixels are square. DVD formats do not use square pixels, as 720 divided by 480 does not equal 4:3 nor 16:9.
However can you explain how this works for PAL sources. Presumably
it is one thing to crop a 480 line NTSC DVD source to 450 lines, but how
do you deal with 16:9 aspect with anamorphic 720x576 PAL DVD source
In 16:9 mode, the image is in the central 800x450 pixel area - a 16:9 proportion. For an NTSC anamorphic (enhanced for widescreen) DVD, the 720x480 RECTANGULAR pixels are converted to 854x480 SQUARE pixels. The left and right 27 columns are cropped off, as are the top and bottom 15 rows, leaving 800x450 pixels to be displayed. (This loss of image is similar to overscan on an ordinary TV.) The 75 rows of pixels above and below the image are as black as the X1 can make them.
In 4:3 mode the image fills the entire 800x600 pixel area. If a letterboxed DVD is played, this mode is useful since the actual image will be essentially in the same 16:9 central area.
"Native" mode prior to firmware version 3.6 meant the "actual" pixels as received by the X1. This varied by the type of signal. So with a 1080i signal, you saw the upper left quadrant of the picture. With ordinary NTSC signals, the native digital format was, I think, 704x480 rectangular pixels. When shown with square pixels, this was geometrically distorted. And it was taller than the 450 pixels for the 16:9 mode. This prevented proper use of a 16:9 screen.
InFocus recognized this limitation and in version 3.6 the "Native" mode was changed. (At least for NTSC signals, its name is no longer very descriptive.) It will now display a 4:3 NTSC signal by converting it to 640x480 pixels, cropping off the top and bottom 15 rows and displaying a geometrically correct 640x450 image in the center of the screen. There will be "black" bars left and right within the 16:9 image area.
4:3 native mode fixed in 3.6 firmware
"The only difference between Film and Video mode in the X1 is the gamma curve. The Video gamma curve is designed to mimic the inverse response of a video camera, while the Film gamma curve is designed to mimic what you would see in a movie theater. The Film gamma is a more aggressive gamma, so that dark areas of the image are darker than those with the Video gamma." Go to your favorite DVD, pick a fairly dark image, and switch between the two modes to decide which you like best.
color wheel speed 6000rpm for PAL, and 7200rpm for NTSC
light output beyond image (e.g.. top and bottom in 16:9 mode)
[6.2] Cables and AdaptersTwo adapters:
If the VESA adapter from InFocus is backordered, can I get it somewhere
VGA component adapter: HD15 to BNC cable; add BNC to RCA adapters to the red, green and blue wires
Making own HD15 cable:
HD15 to component cable
What cables should I run to the X1?
Needing to use both the component adapters (the VGA and S-video component inputs) on the X1 with a long cable run? Consider buying a long component cable (3 RCA to 3 RCA) and get the short X1 adapters. That way the same long component cable can be used with either input (with a component switch at the X1 end).
Does the S-video adapter convert the component video into S-video?
I want to make my own S-video to component adapter. What is the
[6.3] Signal Sources
[6.3.1] DVD player
The signal from the component outputs of a progressive DVD player is analog. However, it is a much better analog signal than the interlaced one, and is similar to the signal from a computer graphics card. Also, if the de-interlacing is done in the digital domain inside the DVD player before and analog conversions then it is likely to be more accurate. Therefore, if the deinterlacing in the DVD player is equivalent to that of the projector, and the cables between the player and projector are capable of twice the bandwidth requirements of interlaced video, then the picture should be better using the progressive output of the DVD player into the VGA input of the projector.
Dark scenes - check the black level setting on your dvd player -- if you've got options, try the other setting(s)
Panasonic DVD-XP30 & DVD-XP50 switching to 480p (progressive) - I
have my xp30 feeding into X1, and it did not work at first. After much
frustrating moments, I finally find out why.
[184.108.40.206] Anamorphic DVD
Should I set my DVD player and the X1 to 16:9 mode or 4:3?
Using 480i or 480p DVD players as an example:
If the DVD player is set to 4:3 mode and it then letterboxes an anamorphic widescreen (16:9) movie, the vertical resolution of the movie as sent in the signal to the projector will be only 75% of 480 lines = 360 lines (with the other 120 lines containing only the black letterbox). With the projector in 4:3 mode, it will then scale those 360 lines to 450 lines at the projector.
On the other hand, if the DVD player is set to 16:9 mode with an anamorphic movie, then the image will fill all 480 lines of vertical resolution in the signal from the DVD player. And with the projector in 16:9 mode those lines will then be scaled to the same projector vertical resolution as before (450 lines).
Both ways result in the same number of vertical pixels being displayed by the projector. But if you start by giving the projector only 360 lines of image to scale instead of 480 lines, then the lower resolution image will not look as good when they are both scaled to the same size. For example, you get 360 lines scaled to 450 in 4:3 mode versus 480 lines scaled to 450 in 16:9 mode.
So there is a distinct advantage in running both the DVD player and the projector in 16:9 mode. You should get a better image in 16:9 mode because you are actually sending 25% more lines of resolution to the projector's scalar in the first place.
A side note: The InFocus X1 in 16:9 mode actually does vertical cropping to 450 rather than scaling to 450, so you lose a bit off the top and bottom but the image is sharper for not having been scaled.
Another side note: The principles are different if you are using an HTPC for DVDs. In that case you are better off setting the HTPC to the projector's native resolution and letting the HTPC do all the scaling.
Does this theory apply for all letter-boxed DVDs or only ones in 1.87:1? What about 1080i HDTV? Should you use 16:9 on the projector for everything other than 4:3?
Set your DVD player for 16:9 televisions and you will gain a 25% resolution improvement when combined with anamorphic DVDs (which almost all are these days) and the 16:9 mode of the X1. Even for non-anamorphic DVDs it is okay to leave the DVD player in 16:9 mode, then you simply can change the X1 to Native or 4:3 (depending on your screen size) and the image will have the correct aspect ratio and also will have the maximum resolution. The only time you may want to change the setting in your DVD player is for watching content on televisions that do not have a 16:9 mode (which is the case for most televisions).
To look at it another way, the 4:3 setting on DVD players, which is the default setting, acts as a resolution reducer for all anamorphic DVDs in order to be compatible with 4:3 televisions. When you set the DVD player to 16:9 televisions, the resolution reducer is turned off.
ATSC is the sanctioning group for DTV (Digital TV) in the US. There are 3 possible ATSC HDTV formats. 1280x720p & 1920x1080i are in use at this time, see the HDTV Programming Synopsis for details. 1920x1080p is for future use as technology allows. All HDTV formats are 16:9 aspect ratio.
The remaining ATSC formats are standard digital formats, but 16:9 480p has been defined as EDTV (Enhanced Definition) by the Consumer Electronics Association, and is accepted as the defacto term. 480i DTV is Standard Definition digital TV.
480i analog is NTSC, the previous TV system.
640x480p, 800x600p, 1024x768p, 1280x1024p, 1600x1200p, etc. are all computer graphics formats, none of which are HDTV, or part of the ATSC standards.
HDTV 16:9 1920 x 1080 Interlaced 30fps (Square pixels) 16:9 1280 x 720 Progressive 60fps (Square pixels) EDTV 16:9 704 x 480 Progressive 60fps (Rectangular pixels) 4:3 704 x 480 Progressive 60fps (Rectangular pixels) SDTV 4:3 704 x 480 Interlaced 30fps (Rectangular pixels)
The Sony HD100 and RCA DTC100 are the only two set top boxes we know of
that do not output correct 1080i, and we have tested most of the rest of
[6.3.3] Broadcast TV and Cablevision
The X1 does not have a TV tuner built in so you will need to use an external one. For example, a cablevision converter or digital cable box, or you could use the tuner in your VCR.
[6.3.6] Video Game Machines
I have the HD output kit for the X-Box. I can't get it to show
anything either through the component into special S Video adapter that
came with the pj (with the X-Box set for 480p, 720p or 1080i output), nor
will it work when I put the component outputs of the X-Box through a
component to VGA adapter and run it into the computer input.
It was quite easy to set up the xbox for those who were coming across
problems. After attaching the HD pack to the xbox, I hooked up the green
cable to my tv to see a black and white image. The settings for widescreen,
420p, 720p, 1080i, Dolby Digital, and DTS were now all available in the
settings menu. I enabled them all ( i left the projector in 4:3 mode and
let the xbox put out the widescreen format...worked best this way), used
the breakout cable to hook up to the projector and voila. Note: To those
that "upgraded" their xbox, all "extra features" are
480p so no need to worry about not being able to see menu's and such.
With a video game machine like the Xbox, running 480p will give you additional detail from your games that you won't get from 480i. This is because the Xbox and its games are natively a progressive source, so if you run 480p there is no deinterlacer involved at either end. On the other hand, if you run the Xbox at 480i it is actually having to downconvert the progressive source down to interlaced, and then the X1 has to deinterlace it back to progressive again. Some detail will get lost in the translation.
[6.3.7] Computers and Home Theatre PCs (HTPC)
Without PowerStrip: The X1 shouldn't do any scaling if you set your HTPC to 800x600 @ 60 Hz and set the projector to 4:3 mode. Your PC will then scale 16:9 material to 800x450 with 1:1 pixel mapping to the projector. When I need to see the whole desktop on my 16:9 screen I switch the projector to 16:9, which does use the projector scaler and distorts the desktop aspect ratio, but you get to see the whole desktop within the 800x450 pixels.
If you are planning to do PC gaming with the X1 then I strongly recommend you go with a 4:3 screen so that you can display the full 800x600 (or downscaled 1024x768) game image. The X1 does not provide any way to proportionally downscale a computer image within a 16:9 screen (though I really wish they did! maybe a future firmware upgrade?). You can set the projector to 16:9 mode but it will vertically squish the 4:3 image down to fit the 16:9 area, distorting the picture. And the other mode, native mode, doesn't do any scaling so that doesn't help either.
1) After experimenting with powerstrip I was unable to get a
resolution of 800x450 working, but I did get 800x453 to work. The x1 sees
it as 800x600 so the scaler on the projector is not activated and the
computer desktop is displayed on my 16:9 screen.
I played around and found that 1024x580 works fine:
2) The X1 is set to 4:3, but I am using powerstrip on my HTPC to create a custom resolution of 800x453. I was never able to get 800x450 working, but the extra 3 lines aren't noticeable. The X1 sees it as 800x600 so the scaler isn't activated. The following are my powerstrip settings:
To use these just copy them and go to the custom resolution screen in powerstrip then hit the paste button.
This setup allows me to have the HTPC desktop displayed on my 16:9 screen. There are a couple problems with this resolution however. First, on some things in Windows the OK and Cancel buttons are off the screen since there are only 453 vertical pixels. I have overcome this by using tab to blindly hit OK or using the powerstrip tray icon to quickly change to 800x600 and back to 800x453. Second, sometimes when I turn the projector on the image is shifted to one side, I fixed this by programming the effect key to do auto image and included it in the power on macro.
The two possibilities are Scart->SVideo and Scart->VGA. Cables for both types of connections are available. While all, or almost all, Scart devices should be able to go to VGA, not all can go to SVideo. If you check the manual for your device, look for (aside from SVideo) Y/C or S-VHS.
Obviously, the VGA connector should give a better image, but depending on what type of device it is, the SVideo may be perfectly acceptable.
 Controls and Adjustments
[7.1] The Menu
Some of the X1 remotes shipping recently do not have the backlight function that earlier remotes had. (Aug/2003)
[7.3] Settings and Calibration
Seems like when I toggle from one preset or color temperature, the
correction can be different every time. Like if you were explaining to
somebody how to tweak, you'd say Start with film, Go to cool, Increase
The settings available to you depends on which connection you use. On the video connection it has normal color/tint controls and RGB. Through VGA it just has RGB.
A good starting point for settings can be found in this review
There is a proper setting for brightness on a projector. That setting is at the point where pixels of the darkest black (i.e., luminosity level 0) are projecting at the darkest level the projector is capable of producing AND where the adjacent levels (1, 2, 3, 4, and so on) are all distinguishable from each other and from the lowest level 0. If you lower your brightness setting below that point you will "clip" or "crush" the blacks. This happens because you have already lowered luminosity level 0 to the darkest the projector is capable of. If you continue to lower brightness then other luminosity levels, pixels that should be distinguishable from luminosity 0, will be lowered to the same lumosity level as the darkest pixels. Thus, you lose detail in your image.
Same thing happens in reverse with the brightest luminosity levels when you raise contrast above its proper setting.
And the "brightness" and "contrast" controls are badly chosen terms in the early days of the TV industry. They should be called "black level" and "white level," respectively. Usually, there is only one optimal setting for these controls, for a given projector and screen.
The Brightness and Contrast controls are there so you can match your PJ to your various sources, just as has been explained above. The exact electrical signal for "Black" and "White" varys from one DVD player, set top box, VCR, etc, to the next. The controls allow you to adjust your PJ so that when your DVD player (for example) sends the signal for "Black", your PJ projects the darkest grey it can. The same for "White". If you adjust your controls beyond those levels, you will lose shadow and highlight details.
[7.4] Image Quality
A non-scientific poll of X1 projector owners at AVS Forum indicates that approximately 20% never see rainbows, 60% see them sometimes but find it minimal enough that they can live with it, and 20% see them often enough that it bothers them significantly.
Many have reported that they see fewer rainbows or are less bothered by them as time goes on.
I don't think rainbow reduction is follow-the-recipe simple -- too
much depends upon your eyes and brain, the size of your screen and the
overall brightness of the image and your particular room. Reports of the
worst rainbows came from those shooting a smaller image on a higher-gain
screen. So going gray will help, a ND filter might ...the
overall goal here should be to reduce the whacking brightness of the
brightest bits of dark scenes.
dead or stuck pixels
"We do not have a dead pixel policy or a zero dead pixel policy
for the X1 projector. If the customer wants to resolve the issue, it will
have to come in for evaluation and we will determine if it meets Infocus'
specifications. If it does not, we will repair it under warranty."
hot air interference patterns - heat mirage on screen.
Can the X1 be used with a Panamorph lens without the help of a HTPC?
Is it able to stretch the image (anamorph setting?)?
[7.5.1] What modifications have people made to the X1?
First off, be aware that any modification to the projector itself is almost certainly going to void your warranty. Modify it at your own risk.
Some owners have added optical filters in front of the lens of the X1. (see next item)
There has also been discussion of adding an "anamorphic" lens, in order to take advantage of the X1's full 800x600 resolution with 16:9 material. I do not have any details on this mod.
One owner has heavily modified his X1. Among his mods are a partially blacked out color wheel, lens iris, blacked out optical engine, and lots of filters. See his description and photos at this AVS Forum thread.
Another owner has created a modified X1 projector that he calls the "Goo 0.5". No details are available on exactly what modifications were made but some who have seen the projector were impressed by the image quality. See the related AVS Forum thread.
There is another interesting AVS Forum thread discussing the feasibility of using 3 projectors to create the equivalent of a 3-DLP projector (which would eliminate any possibility of rainbows).
It is possible to load the firmware for the SP4800 onto the X1 to take advantage of any feature differences. See the Firmware section for more details.
Another feasible (but potentially risky) modification would be to alter the firmware files, for example to create a custom startup logo. But I'd suggest leaving that one to the professional hackers.
[7.5.2] What optical filter modifications have been tried?
The main purpose for adding an optical filter has been to reduce light output, which it is said may also reduce the visibility of the rainbow effect in some cases.
Although the X1 is not threaded for attaching optical filters, a 62mm filter is just the right size to fit snugly inside the plastic bezel of the focus ring. A twist of about a 1/4 turn secures it there.
The most common filters that have been tried are "neutral density" or "polarizing" filters, which are supposed to reduce light output without significantly altering the color balance (although recalibrating is a good idea anyway).
A word of caution when placing a filter in front of the lens. There is the potential to build heat up in the filter, the bezel or the X1 lens itself. But there have been no reports of damage so far.
Based on recommendations of several others I bought both the Hoya 62mm HMC ND 2X Filter and the Hoya 62mm Linear Glass Polarizer. I found both of them online for under $30 each. I tested them out on the X1 and liked the effect. The polarizer did cut the brightness a bit too much so I ended-up sticking with the ND filter. The improvements are that the image is not quite as "edgy", it has more black depth, I notice fewer rainbows and I find it less fatiguing.
[7.5.3] How about modifying the color wheel?
If you remove the bulb housing you can see the color wheel (photo).
The red/green/blue colored segments of the wheel appear to each be around 100 degrees wide (300 in total), and the white (actually clear) segment appears to be around 60 degrees wide. The white segment is only used when the projector is in Presentation mode, to brighten the image. When the projector is in Video or Film mode, the white segment of the wheel is turned off to give a more accurate color balance.
But what does it mean to "turn off" the white segment? What that really means is that the lamp will still shine on the DLP chip during the white segment, but none of the pixel elements will be turned on to their reflective positions, so the projector will project a blank or "black" picture during the white segment of the wheel.
However, as you might have noticed, even when the projected image is "black" (such as above and below a letterboxed movie), there is still some light reaching the screen that is clearly visible when compared to the area beyond the projector's image area.
This background level of light is caused by reflections off the surface of the DLP chip even when the pixels are turned off, and by stray light that has bounced off other surfaces in the light path.
In an effort to improve the contrast ratio and black levels in Video and Film mode, one modification that might be considered (and which has been used with other DLP projectors) is to black out the white (clear) segment of the color wheel to prevent that background light from escaping through when the white segment is turned off.
However, this modification apparently cannot be used with the X1 because of the optical synchronization of the color wheel.
So it would appear that completely blacking out the color wheel of the X1 would only cause grief. However, as mentioned in the previous FAQ section, one brave owner did partially black it out and was able to leave enough clear segment exposed so that the projector still worked properly.
 Ongoing Use
[8.1] Care and Maintenance
clean the lamp module air filters every 250 hours
burn-in (lack of)
Could a firmware upgrade be used to allow people to totally power
down the projector via remote?
Cleaning the lens:
The coatings on most glasses are different from the types of coatings on optical surfaces. They're made to be handled with no ill effects. Projector lenses have the same type of coatings as fine optics: telescopes, cameras, etc. These coatings can be affected by the oils in hands, airborne pollutants, smoke etc. Many of these coatings are fairly fragile. On camera lenses, camcorders etc. I highly recommend installing a clear uv or skylight filter as protection. Helps protect the actual lens from scratches, fingerprints etc. Also it can be cleaned repeatedly, and then discarded at minimal cost. That way you almost never clean the actual lens itself. If you transport your projector, or have it in any other high risk environment; on a table, smokey or dusty environment, its probably not a bad idea to do this too. (if your projector takes screw on filters) Otherwise the SMART filters, or any other color correction filter you tweak with will accomplish this too. (the cinema filter on the HS10)
As far as cleaning goes, eyeglass cleaner may or may not be a bad idea. I don't know the individual formulas to say. Never ever use any ammonia-based cleaner, windex, window glass cleaner!!! They'll eat most optical finishes right off.
What you want to use is the same thing you'd use to clean a camera lens. I don't recommend the 'cleaning cloths' They're fine when they're brand new, but they tend to pick up dirt. Whether you can see it or not, its there and it'll leave scratches. I prefer good old kodak lens paper and lens cleaning fluid. Its harder to find than it used to be. A lot of camera stores have generic brands, and while they're probably not going to harm anything, I find that they tend to streak too easily. Otherwise, check out these links for some other materials: astronomics
The pens and brushes are good for 'touch-up' cleanings. Use them when dust-off doesn't work for little specks. Remember, some dust/dirt on a lens will not be noticeable. Don't overclean your optics! Every time you clean a lens you ARE scratching it! Your ARE affecting the optical coatings. It may be slight, it may be imperceptible, but over time, it MAY add up. Also, anytime you are cleaning, you are risking damaging the lens. So, just use moderation.
Cleaning instructions: I assume now you have cleaning paper, fluid and dust-off(or some type of compressed air in a can.) Blow off the lens with dust-off to remove any large or loose dust. Take a sheet of the paper and wad it up slightly. I usually wad it up so that I'm holding it by the edges, and the center of the paper becomes a little 1/4" dia. surface. (sorry for the bad description) Do what works for you. Basically you want a little tip thats loosely wadded to clean with. Take the lens fluid and place a drop on the tip of the paper. NEVER put fluid directly on the lens!!! It can run into the side of the lens and get into the inner surfaces. You do not want to have to have your lens disassembled to clean it! Take the wetted cloth and lightly rub in a circular motion, (pick one direction, clockwise or ccw and go with it) working from the outside, to the inside. You don't want to push dirt to the edges where it will get stuck, or worse work its way inside the optics. You want to 'lift' the dirt off the lens. Do not rub hard! Part of the reason for the loose wadding of the paper, is to keep from pressing down. If necessary (for more than just dust:smoke, something sticky), repeat with a new piece of paper and fluid. Never reuse a piece! Usually my last step is to take a dry piece and lightly wipe (circular motion, out to in) and that will remove any remaining dust or moisture as well as streaks. Last step is to blow off any lint or remaining dust with dust off.
Hopefully this will help you do it right. -SDJ
BTW please use care when cleaning optics. Particles can exist airborne, or in your cleaning materials, that could damage your optics. While I do stand behind my cleaning methods, which I have garnered from years of experience and other sources, understand you do so at your own risk.
[8.2] The Bulb
150 Watt DC SHP (Super High Pressure) Mercury Arc Lamp
lamp life (was 3000 hours, now 4000 hours)
"Longer lamp life with software upgrade - The X1 lamp life specification has changed from 3,000 hours to 4,000 hours. This upgrade is effective for all X1 projectors with software version 4.1 or higher. This change is based on lamp life data we have collected since the X1 was released. Nothing in the product itself was changed. Projectors using earlier software versions can be upgraded to take advantage of the new lamp counter configuration."
"The lamp life is tested using the proposed ANSI method, which means that lamps are run in projectors for 2 hours on and then 15 minutes off, continuously, to try to mimic a typical use model. This testing is done in multiple units. All of our current data show that the lamp in the X1, on average, meets or exceeds its 3,000 hour rating." (statement made prior to increase to 4000 hour rating)
Projector settings (brightness/contrast/color) do not effect bulb life.
replacements started at $495 US, have since dropped to about $299 US
Will bulb prices come down significantly, like to the $100 range?
"The material costs of mercury arc lamps (which are the most efficient light sources in the world for their wattage) are very high. The purity of the tungsten electrodes exceeds 99.9999% and the quartz envelope surrounding the electrodes is also ultra-pure so that it can contain the 7,000 degree Kelvin plasma arc. To sell a lamp for $100 right now, we would be offering it below material cost. That being said, projector lamps are getting less expensive due to automation, competition, and higher volume production. For instance, the X1 lamp sells for $299, which I believe is the lowest price we have ever offered a lamp for in a current product."
would it be prudent to buy a replacement bulb now and keep it around
[8.3.1] What is Firmware?
Firmware is software which is stored in hardware so that it is persistent even when the device is powered off. In the case of the X1, the installed firmware operates and controls the functions of the projector. The firmware in the X1 was designed to be upgradable in order to add new features or fix problems in existing features.
[8.3.2] What firmware upgrades are available?
"CAUTION - For a successful upgrade, follow the instructions carefully. Avoid interrupting the software upgrade once you've started it from your PC. Disrupting the upgrade process by removing cables or disconnecting the power before the upgrade completes can damage the projector. Projector damage caused by disrupted, incomplete or aborted upgrades is not covered by warranty. All shipping and repair expenses for projector service stemming from incomplete software upgrades are at customer expense."
Loading new firmware erases your settings! Write them down first if you want to save them.
X1 Firmware (InFocus site)
Other sources of X1 Firmware, including older and alternate versions:
Upgrading the Firmware on the X1 (.pdf / 130KB)
Follow the instructions. The most commonly overlooked step is that you must hold down both the Keystone buttons on top of the projector as you power it up.
InFocus ScreenPlay 4800 firmware (InFocus site)
Not officially compatible with X1 projector *
* It is possible to load SP4800 firmware on the X1 by some minor file alterations (as discussed here), or by using an altered set of files circulated as "X1_or_SP4800.zip" and available from some of the unofficial firmware download sites listed above.
I have no problem with X1 owners re-flashing their projectors with
ScreenPlay 4800 firmware. I only meant to say that the firmware upgrade
program (called FlashUSB) will not currently allow it with the firmware
files that exist today.
There will be future firmware upgrades for both the X1 and the
ScreenPlay 4800. There are no current plans to modify the flashing
software to allow owners of one platform to flash the firmware of another.
firmware versions on different brands?
 Problems and Solutions
I am having problems with loss of signal (blue screen) issues while
watching DVD's on my X1.
The issue with component video losing sync has been corrected in the 2.9 firmware for the X1.
How can I tell if I have a dead or stuck mirror in my DLP array?
Display an all black screen (800x600) and look for odd pixels, then
display an all white screen (800x600) and look for odd pixels. (you can do
this by setting the Blank Screen setting)
I sometimes hear a high-pitched whine from my X1, is that normal?
Half the noise on a X1 tends to be the color wheel.
Shut the unit down via the power switch, and -immediately- turn it on again. (Just a quick 'click-click' with the power switch!) After a few seconds the color wheel will stop turning because it cannot sync to the bulb...which is OFF...and you will have chance to hear the fans alone. Let the projector run for a minute like this to ensure that the bulb is properly cooled. You have to let the bulb cool, as is usual. Then shut the unit fully off again. You will get the flashing red light, indicating a bad bulb.. but this is due to the fact that the power supply will not immediately strike the bulb on again, which is a good thing. The machine is acting like it is dealing with a temporary power outage...and protecting itself...which it is!
This will allow you to figure out how loud your particular color wheel is, compared to the fans.
The bearings on the color wheels naturally get a bit louder as they age. The change in noise level is usually noticeable. It does not mean that it is worn out! They just naturally get louder.
Only worry about the color wheel if your machine starts 'flashing' with weird colored 'double' images, etc. This means the color wheel is loosing sync. It may 'flicker' in a very, very quick fashion if the wheel is loosing sync. I mean very quick. Almost like a imperceptible 'flashbulb' kind of effect.
I'm seeing two complete images when I use component input.
I connected my DVD player to the component input using an adapter on
the VGA port, but I'm not getting a picture.
There were dim dark bands marching up the screen when the picture is
relatively dark. When the picture is white or a bright color, the bands
I have faint, wide bands slowly scrolling up the screen.
My pj is sitting on a table and the image is about 5 feet wide. On
the top right corner, running about a foot and a half towards the left and
the same distance running down the right side,there is a one inch border
of light . I have tried adjusting the pj but cannot get it to go away.
A strange rainbow line appeared. It's a thin squiggly line that goes up
from the bottom of the screen. It is blue red and yellow and kind of
vibrates a little bit. That's the best that I can describe it. Does
anybody know what this could be?
My colors look a little washed out and dull.
When I first power-up my X1, I have a lot of grey pixels splattered all
over the screen (which is otherwise black). When the picture comes on, all
pixels look completely normal. Is something wrong with my projector? Is
this something a shot of compressed air will fix?
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