The (unofficial) InFocus X1 Projector FAQ

What is the InFocus X1 Projector?InFocus X1 Projector

The InFocus X1 is a video/computer projector designed to meet the needs of both the Home Theater market and the business market. It is being heralded by many as a breakthrough product for its affordable high-value features. With the introduction of this projector, creating your own big screen home theater has suddenly become a price-competitive option for the average home entertainment consumer. Read on for more information.

FAQ version 0.7.9 (2003-11-06)
The newest version is maintained at
Please send corrections and additions to the FAQ Editor: technut @
You are also invited to post and read public comments regarding this DRAFT version of the FAQ. >> 
This FAQ is not affiliated with InFocus Corporation or any other organization.

Click to learn how to add this link logo to your web page and messages!! Contents

[0] About this FAQ

[1] X1 Overview

[2] Official Product Information

[3] Other Sources of Information

[4] Behind the X1

[5] Setting Up

[6] Making the Connection

[7] Controls and Adjustments

[8] Ongoing Use

[9] Problems and Solutions

[10] Glossary


[0] About this FAQ

[0.1] What is covered by this FAQ?

This FAQ will attempt to cover all aspects of the X1 Projector itself, and also touch on some closely related topics.

Because it is likely that the X1 will be the first projector owned by many of the readers of this FAQ, I will also try to provide a basic overview of using the projector for Home Theater, and pointers to additional resources for further reading.

This FAQ is not a buyer's guide for selecting a projector; there are no comparisons to other brands or models. I will also not be making any product recommendations, though I may provide information to assist in locating certain products if they are not widely available.

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[0.2] Where does this information come from?

This summary of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) is a collection of knowledge from a variety of sources, primarily but not exclusively from:

  • InFocus's web site, documentation, and customer support
  • various user forums and web pages on the Internet
    (particular thanks go to the folks who post in the AVS Forum
    and to the InFocus employee(s) who participate there)
  • contributions from readers of this FAQ

The FAQ is a compilation of information from both official and unofficial sources. I cannot make any guarantee as to the accuracy of the information, so use it at your own risk. When in doubt, go to the official sources.

In rare cases when I think it would be especially useful for the reader to know which information was obtained from (or confirmed by) an InFocus source, I will mark that information as follows:

"InFocus official"
- indicates that the information either came from or was confirmed by official and/or published InFocus sources. Some examples would be information published on the InFocus web site or in InFocus documentation or press releases, or information from InFocus management.

"employee of InFocus"
- indicates that the information either came from or was confirmed by an employee of InFocus, but it does not appear to be documented by any of the official and/or published InFocus sources. Such information should be reliable even though it may not be considered to be official. Some examples would be information posted by an InFocus employee to an Internet site (other than to InFocus's own site), or information received from an InFocus employee via a phone call or email (unless it comes from or is confirmed by InFocus management).

This FAQ is developed and maintained by an X1 owner, not by InFocus or any reseller. It is not a marketing tool. Please excuse me if my enthusiasm for the product sometimes makes it seem like one.

I am located in Canada so the FAQ will probably have an unintentional North American bias, but I am happy to include International information when it is provided to me. You may also notice some Canadian spellings of words.

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[0.3] How can I contribute to the FAQ?

If you have any additions or corrections for this FAQ please email them to the FAQ Editor at technut @ .

I regret that it will not be possible to provide individual credit for contributions, but they are genuinely appreciated by myself and the readers of this FAQ. Thank you!

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[0.4] How can I add a link to the FAQ from my web page or in my messages?

First off, let me thank you for wanting to link to the FAQ. It's a great way to assist fellow X1 owners or to lead others to discover the X1 for themselves.

There are several ways that you can provide a link to the FAQ depending on your preferences and whether you are adding it to a web page or to a message. For your convenience I have created a page of examples with copy&paste code.

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[0.5] May I distribute the FAQ?

I would prefer that you not distribute a static copy of this FAQ since it will eventually become out of date. It would be better if you were to provide a link to the original, which is maintained at . But if you do decide to make a copy then please be sure to include the version number and a link to the maintained original FAQ.

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[0.6] Recent revisions to the FAQ

  • 0.x (June-Oct 2003) - This is a DRAFT version of the FAQ (yes it is taking a ridiculously long time, but I still have some major upgrades in mind before I'll be happy with it)
  • 0.7.5 (2003/09/30) - updated to reflect increased lamp life rating
  • 0.7.6 (2003/10/09) - updated InFocus stuck pixel policy
  • 0.7.7 (2003/10/21) - added a new review
  • 0.7.8 (2003/11/04) - fixed a couple of broken links
  • 0.7.9 (2003/11/06) - updated a link to the recently revised X1 Manual and updated the History section to note the new manual shows a remote without a joystick control. Added a warning about the mounting bolt lengths.  Also added a link to the SP4805 FAQ being developed.

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[1] X1 Overview

[1.1] Features

The InFocus X1 is designed to be a "crossover" projector, one that is suitable both for business presentations and for home entertainment. If your budget was the only thing holding you back from front projection, the X1 is what you have been waiting for. It sets a new milestone for value for money at the low end of the projector price range, and it has features that make it a great first projector for a home theater.

  • Native Resolution: SVGA (800 x 600)
  • Aspect Ratio: 4:3 standard (800 x 600); 16:9 wide (800 x 450)
  • Display: DLP™ by Texas Instruments: 0.55" SVGA 12° DDR DMD
  • Video Processing: DCDi™ by Faroudja: FLI2200
  • Brightness: 1100 max ANSI lumens
  • Contrast Ratio: 2000:1 full on / full off
  • Light Source: 150W SHP / 4000 hours
  • Projection Methods: Front, rear, ceiling
  • Projection Lens: Zoom lens with manual focus and manual zoom adjust
  • Image Size (diagonal): 2.7’ to greater than 21.6’ (0.8m to greater than 6.5m)
  • Data Compatibility: SVGA, VGA, XGA, Macintosh®
  • Video Compatibility: NTSC, PAL, SECAM, EDTV, HDTV (1080i and 720p RBGHV)
  • Input Sources: Computer (VGA 15-pin HDDSUB female); video (S-Video 6-pin mini DIN, component RCA through S-Video adapter, and composite video RCA); audio (3.5mm mini-jack)
  • Audio: 2.5-Watt mono speaker
  • Dimensions: 9.8" (W) x 12.5" (L) x 4.2" (H) / 24.9cm x 31.8cm x 10.6cm
  • Weight: 6.8 lbs / 3.1kg
  • Warranty: Two-year standard warranty on parts and labor, 1 year accessories
  • Lamp Warranty: 90 days or 500 hours, whichever comes first
  • Technical Support: Free during business hours for the life of the product
  • Ships Standard with: Soft carry case, Lens cap, Wireless Conductor™ Remote Control (including batteries), color-coded cable straps, standard VESA 15-pin analog computer cable, 3.5mm computer audio cable, power cord (national and regional variants), SCART adapter (EMEA Only), Projector System CD (includes: multi-language projector User Guide, projector Quick Start Card, URL/service information/accessories after market), user manual (printed version), Quick Start Card (printed version)

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[1.2] Price

I will not be tracking the best price or recommending where to get the best price. Please do not email me to ask. I suggest you search the many Internet price-finder engines or browse through the price-deal forums such as (not an endorsement... simply an example).

The Manufacturer's Suggest Retail Price (MSRP) for the InFocus X1 is:

$ 999.00 US (MSRP effective May 19, 2003)

Street price appears to be MSRP or close to it (less than 10% discount). There have occasionally been deeper discounts or coupon deals from certain retailers.  Some refurbished units are also starting to appear in the market for substantially less, but with a much shorter warranty.

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[1.3] Is the projector sold under any other names?

There are several other projectors which appear to be relabeled versions of the X1. It is not clear whether there are any differences between these models and the X1 itself (other than as noted).

What differentiates the X1 from the 4800 model from a hardware standpoint?
There is no difference from a hardware standpoint. The 4800 includes the component to s-video adapter and the component to VESA adapter, and has specific software enhancements for home theater.


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[1.4] Where can I buy the projector?

I will not be recommending any particular outlets or resellers (other than the manufacturer). Please do not email me to ask.

The X1 is widely available from online retailers, and at the InFocus Store. The InFocus website also has a Where to Buy feature to help locate an online or local reseller. You might also find it at your local business equipment or home theater retailer, and it has recently started to appear in some home electronics outlets.

The primary considerations when buying are to purchase from a reputable company and to check their return policy and restocking charge, in case you decide you don't like the projector after you have taken delivery and used it for a bit. When comparing prices, remember that they likely do not include any additional shipping and handling charges (which can vary widely) and any applicable taxes or duties (some of which may not apply depending on whether you purchase inside or outside your own state/province/country).

It is also recommended that you view a demonstration of the projector prior to buying it, if possible. If you cannot find a demo in your local area, you may be able to get a free loaner projector from InFocus to test it out. 
InFocus 10-Day Free Evaluation Program (secure form)
(you may need a reseller's assistance, though many report that it is not necessary)

authorized vs. other sales channel? any blacklisted dealers? warranty issues if bought out of country?

Is there more businesses that purchased the X1 or people using it as a budget home theater projector?
According to our data there are more buying the projector for business than home use, but home users are a very large percentage.employee of InFocus

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[2] Official Product Information

[2.1] InFocus X1 General Information

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[2.2] InFocus X1 Support

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[2.3] InFocus Store

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[2.4] InFocus Partner/Reseller Programs

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[2.5] InFocus Press Releases

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[3] Other Sources of Information

[3.1] Product Reviews

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[3.2] Discussion Groups

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[3.3] Web Sites

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[3.4] Related Information

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[3.5] Related Press Releases

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[4] Behind the X1

[4.1] History of the X1

  • Code-named "Tsunami" during development
    (an early version of the manual was "Tsunami manual rev 01 11-6-02" and the firmware filenames still have references to "tsunami")
  • 2002/10/09 - InFocus Announces Co-development Agreement with Funai Electric
  • 2002/10/15 - InFocus announces the X1 (MSRP $1999 US; Street Price $1699 US)
  • 2002/10/15 - X1 free extended service plan offer begins
  • 2002/11/18 - InFocus shows the X1 at COMDEX Fall 2002
  • 2002/11/26 - First projectors received by customers
  • 2003/02/17 - X1 Rebate period begins ($100 US)
  • 2003/03/31 - X1 Rebate period extended to June 30
  • 2003/04/00 - InFocus X1 price reduction (MSRP $1199 US)
  • 2003/05/10 - Adapter for Component to S-Video no longer included with X1
  • 2003/05/19 - InFocus X1 price reduction (MSRP $999 US)
  • 2003/05/19 - X1 Rebate period shortened from June 30 to May 31
  • 2003/05/20 - InFocus announces the ScreenPlay 4800 (MSRP $1499 US)
  • 2003/05/31 - X1 Rebate period officially ends ($100 US)
  • 2003/06/00 - X1 free extended service plan offer extended to July 31
  • 2003/06/30 - X1 Rebate period original end date (unofficial end)
  • 2003/07/00 - X1 free extended service plan offer extended to Oct 31
  • 2003/08/00 - New X1's are shipping with a remote that does not have backlight
  • 2003/09/00 - X1 lamp life rating increased from 3000 to 4000 hours
  • 2003/10/00 - X1 manual updated to reflect firmware 4.x features and a remote that does not have a joystick control

Future of the X1?
Rumor: The next X1 may lose a major feature, and the next ScreenPlay version may become more distinct and feature rich.  The SP4805 (new SP4800) will have a new multi segment color wheel. Contrast will be bumped up, and it will have component inputs. The X1 replacement (new model number unknown, X2?) may get some of the same enhancements but will no longer have DCDi.  Both will be available sometime in the first quarter.  For more discussion of this rumor, see here

A new FAQ for the (as yet unreleased) ScreenPlay 4805 is under development here.

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[4.2] Specifications

  • Native Resolution: SVGA (800 x 600)
  • Aspect Ratio: 4:3 standard (800 x 600); 16:9 wide (800 x 450)
  • Brightness: 1100 max ANSI lumens
  • Contrast Ratio: 2000:1 full on / full off
  • Data Compatibility: SVGA, VGA, XGA, Macintosh®
  • Display: DLP™ by Texas Instruments: 0.55" SVGA 12° DDR DMD
  • Video Processing: DCDi™ by Faroudja: FLI2200
  • Image Size (diagonal): 2.7’ to greater than 21.6’ (0.8m to greater than 6.5m)
  • Light Source: 150W SHP / 4000 hours
  • Native Resolution: SVGA (800 x 600)
  • Projection Lens: Zoom lens with manual focus and manual zoom adjust
  • Projection Methods: Front, rear, ceiling
  • Data Compatibility: SVGA, VGA, XGA, Macintosh®
  • Video Compatibility: NTSC, PAL, SECAM, EDTV, HDTV (1080i and 720p RBGHV)
  • Minimum Projection Distance: 5’ / 1.5m
  • Maximum Projection Distance: 32.3’ / 9.8m
  • Zoom Ratio: 1.2:1
  • Digital Keystone Correction: +/- 20 degrees
  • Input Sources: Computer (VGA 15-pin HDDSUB female); video (S-Video 6-pin mini DIN, component RCA through S-Video adapter, and composite video RCA); audio (3.5mm mini-jack)
  • Audio: 2.5-Watt mono speaker
  • Brightness: 1000 max ANSI lumens
  • Number of Colors: 16.7 million
  • H-Sync Range: 31.5 – 80 kHz
  • V-Sync Range: 50 – 85 Hz (85Hz at XGA only)
  • Power Supply: 100V-240V at 50-60Hz
  • Power Consumption: 200-Watt (typical); 250-Watt (maximum)
  • Noise Level: 37 dBA
  • Operating Temperature: 5° to 40° C at sea level (0 to 10,000'); 41° – 104° F
  • Menu Languages: English, Spanish, French, German, Japanese, Korean, Portuguese, Italian, Norwegian, Russian, Chinese Simple, Chinese Traditional
  • Dimensions: 9.8" (W) x 12.5" (L) x 4.2" (H) / 24.9cm x 31.8cm x 10.6cm
  • Weight: 6.8 lbs / 3.1kg
  • Warranty: Two-year standard warranty on parts and labor, 1 year accessories
  • Lamp Warranty: 90 days or 500 hours, whichever comes first
  • Technical Support: Free during business hours for the life of the product
  • Ships Standard with: Soft carry case, Lens cap, Wireless Conductor™ Remote Control (including batteries), color-coded cable straps, standard VESA 15-pin analog computer cable, 3.5mm computer audio cable, power cord (national and regional variants), SCART adapter (EMEA Only), Projector System CD (includes: multi-language projector User Guide, projector Quick Start Card, URL/service information/accessories after market), user manual (printed version), Quick Start Card (printed version)

2x color wheel

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[4.3] Inside the X1

Note that opening your X1 (other than simply removing the lamp housing) will likely void your warranty. So spare yourself and use this information to satisfy your curiosity instead.

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[4.3.1] Is there a Service Guide available for the X1?

Yes, the X1 Service Guide (.pdf / 2.6MB)

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Some exterior photos

The small fan behind the color wheel is a 60mm Minebea Model 2406KL-04W-B50 4600 RPM 18.36 CFM.  It is rated at 34db.

If you have any pictures of the guts of the X1, or any other items of interest, please send them to me. Thanks.

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[4.4] The Technology

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[4.4.1] What is this DLP technology that the X1 uses?

dlp technology

"One of the reasons we use DLP in our Home Theater line of projectors is its reliability, especially in terms of the image stability over time."employee of InFocus

ExtremeTech - Projection Display Technology
compared to other projectors
Projector Central: The Great Technology War: LCD vs. DLP
other technologies (lcd, crt, etc)
dlp chip types, angles
color wheels

"The reason we choose to optically sync the DLP chip to the color wheel is so that it automatically calibrates itself at all times. This way, the colors remain perfect forever, never requiring re-calibration as other projectors do."employee of InFocus

"The color wheel motor should last a very long time. I do not have the X1 info in front of me, but in general motors like the one on the color wheel in the X1 have rated lifetimes on the order of 75,000 hours. The color wheel is not user replaceable, and is also not considered a component with a significant field failure rate."employee of InFocus

How does the response time (i.e. on/off time for a pixel) of the X1 compare to say, an LCD such as the Z1? Are DLPs generally "faster" than LCDs?
The response time of a DLP pixel is orders of magnitude faster than that of LCD. Typical LCD response is on the order of 30 ms, which can blur fast pans (or tennis balls). DLP pixels are fast enough that no blurring occurs.employee of InFocus

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[4.4.2] What other electronic components are used in the X1?

Texas Instruments DDP1000 DDM Controller

Texas Instrument DAD1000 Waveform Generator

The X1 has a PixelWorks chip and the Faroudja chip. We chose to use the Faroudja chip for deinterlacing because it does a much better job than PixelWorks does. We still use the PixelWorks chip for its other functions such as GUI, scaling, keystone correction, and color space conversion.

Faroudja DCDi chip FLI2200 (.pdf)
Pixelworks PW164B
Pixelworks technology

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The following are based on the Service Guide Block Diagram, which I have come to believe is incorrect (I will attempt to confirm):

Philips SAA6714 Graphics Processor
Philips SAA6714 (.pdf 56KB)
Philips SAA6714 reference design
Philips SAA7750 MicroProcessor
Philips SAA7115 Video Decoder
SAA7115 NTSC/PAL/SECAM 9-bit Video Decoder
SAA7115 Evaluation System - Decoder

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[5] Setting Up

[5.1] Your Viewing Room

viewing distance
light control
ceiling, rear projection
positioning (vertical/horizontal, on ceiling, on wall), bulb orientation must remain horizontal
The orientation of the projector has no effect on the image quality coming out of it. However, your screen probably does to at least a small extent. Since no screen is a true lambertian surface, for a typical 1.0 gain screen the image will be slightly brighter to the audience if the projector is ceiling mounted. The higher the gain, the more pronounced the difference will be (unless you are using a retroreflective screen which is better for tabletop mounted projectors).

bias lighting - In brief its supposed to cut down on eye strain due to the high contrast of a dark room and bright projector. It also gives the screen and image a more 3d appearance almost as if its floating. Some people do rope lighting attached to the back of the screen with a dimmer of some type.

using mirrors for larger image
normally employed in rear-projection setups and in rooms where throw distance is at a premium.
You want to use what is called a "first surface" mirror--basically a optical-grade mirror that doesn't have a glass surface. A normal mirror has the shiny part sandwiched inside a sheet of glass, which you don't want because the glass will cause secondary reflections that will harm your picture quality.
Assuming that your projector has a setting that will do the appropriate reversal of the projected image ('cause the mirror will flip everything), all you need is the mirror and some carpentry skills. For construction ideas you might want to check out the Home Theater Builder forum here at AVS. For the mirror itself, go to Google and type in "first surface mirror"; you will be presented with a wealth of suppliers.

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[5.2] Distances, Image Sizes and Projector Placement

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[5.2.1] How can I tell how large an image the projector will throw at a certain distance?

The X1 has a zoom lens, so there is actually a range of image sizes available from any particular distance.  The best way to determine that range is with the use of the X1 projection calculator provided by InFocus. Remember that the distance is measured from the front of the lens to the screen.  You will need to leave 16 inches or so behind that point for the rest of the projector and to allow room for cables.

The X1 throw ratio [(distance from screen to lens) / (screen width)] ranges from 1.89 to 2.27.

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[5.2.2] What height should I have my projector at?

Once you have determined your screen placement, there is an optimal height for your projector.  That height will allow you to have an undistorted image without making any corrections.  If your projector is too high or too low, you will have to tilt it and your image will narrow at the top or bottom (known as trapezoidal distortion, or "keystoning").  The projector has a feature called keystone correction which can compensate for this, but it does so at some expense of image quality. The X1 has very good keystone correction, so you may not find the use of it objectionable, but that is a personal judgment.  If you wish to avoid having to use the keystone correction, use the following information to determine the optimal projector height.

When the projector is in 4:3 mode (the default mode), the image offset is 112.2%. This means that if you have an image 10 feet high and you are projecting from a table top, the bottom of the image will be 1.22 feet above the center of the lens. If you are projecting from the ceiling with the projector installed upside down then the top of the image will be 1.22 feet below the center of the lens.

When the projector is in 16:9 mode, the image offset is 132.9%. This means that if you have an image 10 feet high and you are projecting from a table top, the bottom of the image will be 3.29 feet above the center of the lens. If you are projecting from the ceiling with the projector installed upside down then the top of the image will be 3.29 feet below the center of the lens.

Any variance from these heights will require tilting the projector and having to correct the distortion with the keystone correction feature.

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[5.2.3] Can I place the projector a bit to one side?

The X1 does not have any keystone correction for horizontal displacements.  If your projector lens is not horizontally centered at a right-angle to the screen then your image will have an uncorrectable trapezoidal distortion, being vertically shorter on one side than the other.  Note that the center of the lens is not in the center of the projector, it is actually offset by 65 mm (2.56 inches), so offset the center of your mount by the same distance in order to compensate.

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[5.2.4] How do I properly align my projector and screen?

To align a projector to the screen, you should follow these steps:

First adjust the roll (in terms of pitch, roll, and yaw, this means rotate about the lens axis) until the bottom of the screen is aligned to the bottom of the image when table mounted, or the top of the screen when ceiling mounted.

Then adjust the yaw (if there were a flagpole sticking out of the top of the projector, rotate about that) until the top edge is aligned to the top of the screen for tabletop, and the bottom edge for ceiling mount. When you do this the image will move sideways, so you will need to physically move the projector or screen sideways when making this adjustment.

Once both are aligned your projector is square to the wall and level with the screen.

With keystone correction set at 50 (ie. none), measure the length of all four edges of the projected image. Your projector is properly aligned when the top=bottom and left=right.

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laser pointer
zoom range
Size to distance ratios

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[5.3] Screens

Factors to consider (color, gain, materials)
with a 16:9 screen you have to top and bottom mask for 2.35:1 (and for spill beyond 16:9)

I won't be viewing 4:3 sources so I was thinking about masking to get rid of the light spill in the 4:3 area while viewing 16:9. Has anyone tried placing some black paper over the lens cut out block the gray bars? I'm worried about some light being reflected off the edge of the paper and onto the image.
A black mask will work best if placed at least 4-6 inches in front of the lens. At the lens, the light is too unfocused to make a mask effective.

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[5.4] Mounts

Using the InFocus mount (P/N SP-CEIL-007), the distance from the ceiling to the lens center is 144mm without the extension arm. With the extension arm, the distance is adjustable between 306mm and 386mm.

DIY mounts
Well, I've slapped together what may be the cheapest, simplest ceiling mount in history. Two Plumbers 3/4" Floor flanges joined by a 4 inch pipe nipple bolted to a triangular chunk of MDF which attaches to the projector. Total cost - about 12 bucks cdn. For the record, pipe nipples come in various lengths, and can be joined with a simple pipe coupler, allowing a plethora of drop distances - all you DIY's take note

the thread for X1 mounting is a metric M4 thread
4mm x 0.7mm thread pitch
The depth of the brass thread on the base of the projector is exactly 10mm.
Caution! Do not exceed the depth of the brass threads or your bolts may impact and damage internal components of the projector!

the three triangle mounting holes are on a 150mm square. ie: a hole at each of the two back corners and one hole at the mid point of the front side, of a imaginary 150x150mm square area.
Correction: According to the spec sheet just published (below) the two back holes are 150mm apart and the front hole is centered at 151.4mm from the two back holes
X1 dimensions (.pdf / 85KB)

Mandarax mount

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[5.5] Installation

cable routing
laser pointer for precise alignment

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[6] Making the Connection

[6.1] Inputs and Signals

The projector has 3 video input ports.  A VGA port for computer connections or, with an adapter, component video (480p or higher).  An S-Video port for video connections and, with an adapter, component video (480i).  A composite video port (480i).

VGA port: 1080i, 720p, 576p, 480p - Component and RGBHV; Computer connections (1024x768, 800x600, 640x480)

S-Video port: 576i, 480i - Component and S-Video - Faroudja DCDi processing

Composite port: 576i, 480i - composite video - Faroudja DCDi processing

The VGA port can be used for 1080i, 720p, 576p, and 480p sources (both RGB and component with a VGA breakout cable). For 480i and 576i, there is a special adapter than comes with the projector that attaches through the s-video connector. Only 480i, 576i, s-video, and composite use the Faroudja processing, so these sources may look better than 480p and 576p from a progressive DVD player that does not have Faroudja inside.
A component to VGA breakout cable is necessary for component HDTV (1080i, 720p) and EDTV (480p, 576p) sources.
The s-video connector on the X1 has 3 extra pins (7 instead of 4) for the component signals.

Infocus_x1 & Scart
There have been a couple of posts about this recently, so I spoke with Infocus this morning and I hope their reply will be useful to many of you.
First of all, not all Scart devices are exactly the same. But, for the sake of this discussion, there are two possibilities that should be available to most, if not all, Scart-equipped video devices.
The two possibilities are Scart->SVideo and Scart->VGA. Cables for both types of connections are available. While all, or almost all, Scart devices should be able to go to VGA, not all can go to SVideo. If you check the manual for your device, look for (aside from SVideo) Y/C or S-VHS.
Obviously, the VGA connector should give a better image, but depending on what type of device it is (in my case, for example, it is a satellite receiver), the SVideo may be perfectly acceptable.


(480i/p is cropped to 450 to maintain native pixel mapping - which is less cropping than most TVs)
most movies these days are shot at 1.85:1, not the 1.78:1 that is available in 16:9 480p. Therefore, there will be black bars on the top and bottom of the image. So most of the time when viewing 450 lines you will not be missing anything.
It is cropping the sides, the top, and the bottom. So you get 800x450, square pixel native for 480p sources.
Why vertically crop to 450 instead of leaving it at 480 lines (800x480)? The main reason is to fit perfectly on 16:9 screens. Since most DVDs will not use the extra area anyway, this was felt to be a good compromise. It also gets rid of head switching noise and closed captioning for tape and broadcast sources (this is normally done in TVs through overscanning).
Since 720p and 1080i require a good bit of scaling to even come close to the panel resolution, the entire image is scaled to 800x450. No cropping at all.

So if I figure correctly, a native 1.85 image would be 848x459 active. Not losing much there on top and bottom. we will be seeing 800x450 of those. 1.85:1 cropped to 1.78:1
a native 2:35 image would be 848x361 active. Loose nothing there. we will see 800x361. 2.35:1 cropped to 2.22:1.

The X1 in 16:9 mode will crop a dvd from 848 x 480 pixels to 800 x 450 pixels. But, it delivers very good pq quality because it is doing 1 to 1 pixel mapping, so there are no scaling errors or artifacts.

For a 1:78 movie, it will crop 30 pixels from the vertical picture, and 48 pixels from the horizontal picture, or about 3% on all sides.

For 2:35 to 1 and 1:85 to 1, it will do the same cropping, but because these movies are "shorter" vertically, the X1 is actually only cropping the black bars above and below. It will still crop the 48 pixels (24 from each side) from the horizontal picture. All in all, it's barely noticeable.

For the X1 which is SVGA, we chose not to scale the image vertically in order to achieve a native display of 480i/p content (or as close as you can get with a square pixel display), so you will get the sharpest possible output due to the lack of vertical scaling. XGA displays will need to scale both vertically and horizontally to fit the screen, so the image should not be as sharp. However, XGA and higher displays of the same technology have smaller (and therefore less noticeable) pixels so the viewer should be able to sit closer to the screen without seeing stairstepping of the pixels. If you're thinking that an XGA LCD is better than an SVGA DLP, I would like to warn you that in general pixels are easier to see on LCD displays due to their lower aperture ratio.

Note that in "native" and "16:9" modes for NTSC sources there is no vertical scaling. The projector takes a 480 line source and crops it to 450 lines before displaying it.

The horizontal lines for anamorphic and non-anamorphic DVDs is the same :720.
(720x480-pixel and 704x480-pixel sizes have the same aspect ratio because the first includes some overscan.)

All NTSC DVDs are mastered at 720x480. Since this is a non-square pixel format, the 720 columns will need to be scaled horizontally to either 640 (non-anamorphic) or 853 (anamorphic) before playback on square pixel displays like digital projectors. The X1 does this horizontal scaling and then crops the image to 800x450 for anamorphic DVDs.

By "square pixel" I mean that the actual pixels are square. For instance, if you have a 4x3 pixel array and the outer dimensions measure 4" x 3", then the pixels are square. DVD formats do not use square pixels, as 720 divided by 480 does not equal 4:3 nor 16:9.


However can you explain how this works for PAL sources. Presumably it is one thing to crop a 480 line NTSC DVD source to 450 lines, but how do you deal with 16:9 aspect with anamorphic 720x576 PAL DVD source material?
If you simply crop this to 450 lines you would be dropping 126 video lines (or around 22% of the vertical picture frame)!

At a guess, does this mean you simply scale PAL 16:9 material to 800x450 (or scale to something larger and then crop as well)?

We scale PAL to 800x450.

In which case do we assume picture quality for NTSC anamorphic DVD source will be better than PAL anamorphic DVD source, because the NTSC source is not scaled?

It will be slightly better, yes.

On a related note, can you provide some additional explanation of PAL support.
eg: If the color wheel is 2x or 120Hz (7200rpm), how does this work for 50Hz PAL source? Does the wheel slow to 50Hz 2x (ie: 100Hz or 6000rpm)?

Yes, the wheel slows down to 6000rpm. You can hear it if you listen closely.

Also for non-interlaced PAL 4:3 source, can I assume that the PAL 576 line 50Hz source will provide better picture quality than the scaled NTSC source at the native 800x600 4:3 DMD resolution?
eg: Is the video decoder inside the X1 outputting say 768x576 for PAL source and displaying this native on the 800x600 panel without any scaling?

PAL will look sharper than NTSC when you are in 4:3 mode, because its native resolution is higher.

Finally, having read about the slight 4:3 stretch when this aspect source is displayed in "native" mode (for NTSC), can you also explain the geometry for PAL 4:3 source when displayed in "native" mode and when displayed in 16:9 mode.

PAL has the same issue as NTSC for "native" mode. The video decoder outputs 704x576, so the image will appear too tall.

line doubling
aspect ratio modes

In 16:9 mode, the image is in the central 800x450 pixel area - a 16:9 proportion. For an NTSC anamorphic (enhanced for widescreen) DVD, the 720x480 RECTANGULAR pixels are converted to 854x480 SQUARE pixels. The left and right 27 columns are cropped off, as are the top and bottom 15 rows, leaving 800x450 pixels to be displayed. (This loss of image is similar to overscan on an ordinary TV.) The 75 rows of pixels above and below the image are as black as the X1 can make them.

In 4:3 mode the image fills the entire 800x600 pixel area. If a letterboxed DVD is played, this mode is useful since the actual image will be essentially in the same 16:9 central area.

"Native" mode prior to firmware version 3.6 meant the "actual" pixels as received by the X1. This varied by the type of signal. So with a 1080i signal, you saw the upper left quadrant of the picture. With ordinary NTSC signals, the native digital format was, I think, 704x480 rectangular pixels. When shown with square pixels, this was geometrically distorted. And it was taller than the 450 pixels for the 16:9 mode. This prevented proper use of a 16:9 screen.

InFocus recognized this limitation and in version 3.6 the "Native" mode was changed. (At least for NTSC signals, its name is no longer very descriptive.) It will now display a 4:3 NTSC signal by converting it to 640x480 pixels, cropping off the top and bottom 15 rows and displaying a geometrically correct 640x450 image in the center of the screen. There will be "black" bars left and right within the 16:9 image area.


4:3 native mode fixed in 3.6 firmware
1:1 pixel mapping will yield an arguably unwatchable picture, due to the fact that the digital video standard for NTSC is 704x480 which uses non-square pixels. Instead, what we've done in the newer firmware is to slightly scale the image horizontally so it corresponds to 640x480 which is the square pixel equivalent to native 1:1 pixel mapping. In addition, in order for it to fit properly on a 16:9 screen, the top and bottom 15 lines are cropped. The image should not appear stretched.

4:3 mode

Stretches or shrinks the image as necessary to fill the full 800x600 pixels of the projector. If the original source does not have a 4:3 aspect ratio, then it will end up distorted when it is scaled to fullscreen.

Upscales 480i, 480p, and 640x480. One-to-one mapping for 800x600. Downscales 1024x768.

16:9 mode

Stretches or shrinks the image as necessary to fill a 16:9 window of 800x450 pixels (which is vertically centered in the normal 800x600 display area). Again, this will not preserve the original aspect ratio unless the source image is 16:9 (or anamorphic 4:3). If the source image had a 4:3 ratio then it will be distorted (squished down) to fit in the 16:9 window.

Note that if the source is a true letterboxed movie designed for 4:3 screens, then switching modes from 4:3 to 16:9 will not remove the letterbox, it will just squish and distort the aspect ratio of the movie.

There is some special handling of 480i and 480p 16:9 material. Instead of being scaled to fit, it is instead cropped on 4 sides to 800x450 to preserve a one-to-one pixel mapping.

Crops 480i, 480p. Downscales 720p, 1080i.

Native mode (as implemented in firmware v3.6 and newer)

Displays the image at its native resolution. If the native resolution is less than 800x600 then the image is centered. If the native resolution is greater than 800x600 then the upper left-hand corner of the image is displayed and any excess pixels are cropped at the bottom and right-hand edges of the projector display area.

Useful for watching NTSC 4:3 on a 16:9 screen because 480i and 480p will be vertically cropped to 450 lines to fit within a 16:9 screen; higher resolutions (eg. 800x600) will not fit a 16:9 screen.

presentation/video/film modes
(white segment on for Presentation only; brightness drops by about 30% with the white segment off)
For business presentations, projectors typically boost greens (and whites in the case of DLPs) for maximum impact and ambient light resistance. These color boosts need to be turned off in video due to the awful consequences to the picture quality of film sources (especially skin tones). When you turn them off you lose brightness and contrast.
Just like other projectors, both brightness and contrast ratio drop for video sources.
Color wheel is RGBW. It is a crossover product so needs the extra white boost for business use.

"The only difference between Film and Video mode in the X1 is the gamma curve. The Video gamma curve is designed to mimic the inverse response of a video camera, while the Film gamma curve is designed to mimic what you would see in a movie theater. The Film gamma is a more aggressive gamma, so that dark areas of the image are darker than those with the Video gamma."employee of InFocus Go to your favorite DVD, pick a fairly dark image, and switch between the two modes to decide which you like best.

color wheel speed 6000rpm for PAL, and 7200rpm for NTSC
"The projector is frame-locked for 48-62 Hz sources, and the color wheel will change speed to match the source. Above 62 Hz, frames will be dropped, so I do not recommend 75 Hz input for a video source."employee of InFocus

light output beyond image (e.g.. top and bottom in 16:9 mode)
16:9 vs. 1.85
No DVI input

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[6.2] Cables and Adapters

Two adapters:
  • Component to VESA Adapter

    SP-VESA-ADPT (6 inch adapter for 480p, 720p, 1080i component input to the VGA port)
    InFocus Store: X1 Component to VESA adapter
  • Component to S-video Adapter

    SP-VIDEO-ADPT (short adapter for 480i, 576i component input to the S-video port)
    InFocus Store: X1 Component to S-video adapter


If the VESA adapter from InFocus is backordered, can I get it somewhere else?
Search around (eg. at or for "SP-VESA-ADPT". Or you could instead get a HD15 to 5 BNC cable (which are quite common) and add 3 RCA adapters (to the Red/Green/Blue wires).

VGA component adapter: HD15 to BNC cable; add BNC to RCA adapters to the red, green and blue wires

Making own HD15 cable:
As far as how to make the cable, Y should go to G, Pb should go to B, and Pr should go to R. This is pretty much consistent everywhere, so if you simply buy a "component to HD15 breakout cable" it will probably work. Yes, sync on green is correct for component signals.

HD15 to component cable
HD15 pinouts:
1= red (Pr)
2= green (Y)
3= blue (Pb)
6= red ground
7= green ground
8= blue ground

What cables should I run to the X1?
For most users if you run a VGA cable, an S-Video cable, and a Composite (single RCA) cable you will be able to connect virtually any device to the X1.  You may also need a VGA-to-Component adapter for 480p or better from a Progressive DVD or HDTV cable box.  With these 3 cables the only thing you are giving up is being able to use 480i Component (with the InFocus S-Video adapter cable), but most users find that standard S-Video is very comparable.

Needing to use both the component adapters (the VGA and S-video component inputs) on the X1 with a long cable run?  Consider buying a long component cable (3 RCA to 3 RCA) and get the short X1 adapters. That way the same long component cable can be used with either input (with a component switch at the X1 end).

Does the S-video adapter convert the component video into S-video?
The Component to S-video adapter does not actually convert the signal to S-video. The adapter has extra pins in the S-video connector that are not present in standard S-video connectors. Those pins match up with extra connectors on the X1 to allow the adapter to carry true component signals, with no conversion.

I want to make my own S-video to component adapter.  What is the pinout?
You probably won't be able to find a suitable S-video connector since the X1 adapter's S-video connector uses 3 more pins than a normal S-video connector.  But in any case, here is the pinout:

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[6.3] Signal Sources

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[6.3.1] DVD player

The signal from the component outputs of a progressive DVD player is analog. However, it is a much better analog signal than the interlaced one, and is similar to the signal from a computer graphics card. Also, if the de-interlacing is done in the digital domain inside the DVD player before and analog conversions then it is likely to be more accurate. Therefore, if the deinterlacing in the DVD player is equivalent to that of the projector, and the cables between the player and projector are capable of twice the bandwidth requirements of interlaced video, then the picture should be better using the progressive output of the DVD player into the VGA input of the projector.

Dark scenes - check the black level setting on your dvd player -- if you've got options, try the other setting(s)

Panasonic DVD-XP30 & DVD-XP50 switching to 480p (progressive) - I have my xp30 feeding into X1, and it did not work at first. After much frustrating moments, I finally find out why.
(1) There are TWO places in xp30 that I needed to set in order to get 480p out. Follow its Instruction Manual (page 9, column 2, lower 1/3) for proper setup. Once done, the word "prog out" will appear on the upper right hand corner of its LCD panel.

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[] Anamorphic DVD

Should I set my DVD player and the X1 to 16:9 mode or 4:3?

Using 480i or 480p DVD players as an example:

If the DVD player is set to 4:3 mode and it then letterboxes an anamorphic widescreen (16:9) movie, the vertical resolution of the movie as sent in the signal to the projector will be only 75% of 480 lines = 360 lines (with the other 120 lines containing only the black letterbox). With the projector in 4:3 mode, it will then scale those 360 lines to 450 lines at the projector.

On the other hand, if the DVD player is set to 16:9 mode with an anamorphic movie, then the image will fill all 480 lines of vertical resolution in the signal from the DVD player. And with the projector in 16:9 mode those lines will then be scaled to the same projector vertical resolution as before (450 lines).

Both ways result in the same number of vertical pixels being displayed by the projector. But if you start by giving the projector only 360 lines of image to scale instead of 480 lines, then the lower resolution image will not look as good when they are both scaled to the same size. For example, you get 360 lines scaled to 450 in 4:3 mode versus 480 lines scaled to 450 in 16:9 mode.

So there is a distinct advantage in running both the DVD player and the projector in 16:9 mode. You should get a better image in 16:9 mode because you are actually sending 25% more lines of resolution to the projector's scalar in the first place.

A side note: The InFocus X1 in 16:9 mode actually does vertical cropping to 450 rather than scaling to 450, so you lose a bit off the top and bottom but the image is sharper for not having been scaled.

Another side note: The principles are different if you are using an HTPC for DVDs. In that case you are better off setting the HTPC to the projector's native resolution and letting the HTPC do all the scaling.

Does this theory apply for all letter-boxed DVDs or only ones in 1.87:1? What about 1080i HDTV? Should you use 16:9 on the projector for everything other than 4:3?

Set your DVD player for 16:9 televisions and you will gain a 25% resolution improvement when combined with anamorphic DVDs (which almost all are these days) and the 16:9 mode of the X1. Even for non-anamorphic DVDs it is okay to leave the DVD player in 16:9 mode, then you simply can change the X1 to Native or 4:3 (depending on your screen size) and the image will have the correct aspect ratio and also will have the maximum resolution. The only time you may want to change the setting in your DVD player is for watching content on televisions that do not have a 16:9 mode (which is the case for most televisions).

To look at it another way, the 4:3 setting on DVD players, which is the default setting, acts as a resolution reducer for all anamorphic DVDs in order to be compatible with 4:3 televisions. When you set the DVD player to 16:9 televisions, the resolution reducer is turned off.


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[6.3.2] HDTV

ATSC is the sanctioning group for DTV (Digital TV) in the US. There are 3 possible ATSC HDTV formats. 1280x720p & 1920x1080i are in use at this time, see the HDTV Programming Synopsis for details. 1920x1080p is for future use as technology allows. All HDTV formats are 16:9 aspect ratio.

The remaining ATSC formats are standard digital formats, but 16:9 480p has been defined as EDTV (Enhanced Definition) by the Consumer Electronics Association, and is accepted as the defacto term. 480i DTV is Standard Definition digital TV.

480i analog is NTSC, the previous TV system.

640x480p, 800x600p, 1024x768p, 1280x1024p, 1600x1200p, etc. are all computer graphics formats, none of which are HDTV, or part of the ATSC standards.

16:9 1920 x 1080 Interlaced  30fps (Square pixels)
16:9 1280 x 720  Progressive 60fps (Square pixels)
16:9  704 x 480  Progressive 60fps (Rectangular pixels)
4:3   704 x 480  Progressive 60fps (Rectangular pixels)
4:3   704 x 480  Interlaced  30fps (Rectangular pixels)

The Sony HD100 and RCA DTC100 are the only two set top boxes we know of that do not output correct 1080i, and we have tested most of the rest of them.
The X1 is detecting the signal from the Sony HD100 as 1080i, however, the HD100 does not output 1080i with the correct timings. What I expect you will see is about 2% on one side and 6% on the other side of the image is black bars. The HD100 appears to use the same output stages as the RCA DTC100 which has the same problem. There is a workaround for the RCA (with newer firmware) that involves changing the timings in the menus, but I do not think there is a similar workaround for the Sony.

The DTC-100 got a firmware upgrade where you can choose short, long or RCA specific timings. The Sony never got one and probably never will.
Here's what I got from our technical support people (for the DTC100)
1. Press the Menu Button.
2. Select menu option number 7, Assistance.
3. Select menu option number 8, Monitor Setup.
4. Select menu option number 2, Retrace Timing.
5. Select option Short Retrace (EIA 770.3 Timing).

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[6.3.3] Broadcast TV and Cablevision

The X1 does not have a TV tuner built in so you will need to use an external one.  For example, a cablevision converter or digital cable box, or you could use the tuner in your VCR.

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[6.3.4] Satellite

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[6.3.5] VCR

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[6.3.6] Video Game Machines

I have the HD output kit for the X-Box. I can't get it to show anything either through the component into special S Video adapter that came with the pj (with the X-Box set for 480p, 720p or 1080i output), nor will it work when I put the component outputs of the X-Box through a component to VGA adapter and run it into the computer input.
The s-video adapter should work when the XBox is in its setup menu (no disc in the drawer) which is 480i. In the setup menu you will need to tell the XBox that your TV is HDTV compatible. Once setup this way, connecting the component output to the VESA connector via a simple RCA to 15-pin adapter should get it to work properly in 480p or higher. Be advised that there are very, very few titles that will "turn on" the HDTV modes in the Xbox. A couple of popular ones are Dragon's Lair (1080i) and Enter the Matrix (720p or 1080i).
Tip: the green output from the HD pack will give a black and white image if plugged into the composite input. This will let you view the dashboard without swapping A/V packs.

It was quite easy to set up the xbox for those who were coming across problems. After attaching the HD pack to the xbox, I hooked up the green cable to my tv to see a black and white image. The settings for widescreen, 420p, 720p, 1080i, Dolby Digital, and DTS were now all available in the settings menu. I enabled them all ( i left the projector in 4:3 mode and let the xbox put out the widescreen format...worked best this way), used the breakout cable to hook up to the projector and voila. Note: To those that "upgraded" their xbox, all "extra features" are 480p so no need to worry about not being able to see menu's and such.
However if you have not "upgraded" your xbox, you simply just miss out on the beginning intro of the "X" splash screen. Once the game is initialized, the projector kicks in with the picture, so no real issues there unless for some reason you want to go back to the settings menu.
I tinkered with the projector's color temperature, RGB, and other settings a bit, but haven't really come up with anything that seems to be that much better. I used the progressive player for the xbox, and I honestly thought my cheap RCA DVD player with component out looked better. So those wishing to watch DVD movies with the projector will probably not be pleased. Also, its impossible to watch DVD's through the breakout cable from the xbox if it has not been "upgraded".

With a video game machine like the Xbox, running 480p will give you additional detail from your games that you won't get from 480i. This is because the Xbox and its games are natively a progressive source, so if you run 480p there is no deinterlacer involved at either end. On the other hand, if you run the Xbox at 480i it is actually having to downconvert the progressive source down to interlaced, and then the X1 has to deinterlace it back to progressive again. Some detail will get lost in the translation.

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[6.3.7] Computers and Home Theatre PCs (HTPC)


Without PowerStrip: The X1 shouldn't do any scaling if you set your HTPC to 800x600 @ 60 Hz and set the projector to 4:3 mode. Your PC will then scale 16:9 material to 800x450 with 1:1 pixel mapping to the projector. When I need to see the whole desktop on my 16:9 screen I switch the projector to 16:9, which does use the projector scaler and distorts the desktop aspect ratio, but you get to see the whole desktop within the 800x450 pixels.

If you are planning to do PC gaming with the X1 then I strongly recommend you go with a 4:3 screen so that you can display the full 800x600 (or downscaled 1024x768) game image. The X1 does not provide any way to proportionally downscale a computer image within a 16:9 screen (though I really wish they did! maybe a future firmware upgrade?). You can set the projector to 16:9 mode but it will vertically squish the 4:3 image down to fit the 16:9 area, distorting the picture. And the other mode, native mode, doesn't do any scaling so that doesn't help either.

With PowerStrip:

1) After experimenting with powerstrip I was unable to get a resolution of 800x450 working, but I did get 800x453 to work. The x1 sees it as 800x600 so the scaler on the projector is not activated and the computer desktop is displayed on my 16:9 screen.
The following are my powerstrip settings: 800x453=800,32,80,112,453,49,3,99,37107,278

I played around and found that 1024x580 works fine:
The X1 will see this resolution as 1024x768@60Hz. It will scale it using the same algorithm that it uses for 1024x768, so you won't get any weird distortion or anything. It looks just like you're running the HTPC at XGA resolution except that everything fits inside a 16:9 screen.
I prefer this setup, even though it's not native res. Somehow the scaling acts as a sort of antialiasing which makes everything look less pixellated. TV and DVD look better, and web browsing & other computer apps are easier to use at 1024x580 as opposed to 800x453.

2) The X1 is set to 4:3, but I am using powerstrip on my HTPC to create a custom resolution of 800x453. I was never able to get 800x450 working, but the extra 3 lines aren't noticeable. The X1 sees it as 800x600 so the scaler isn't activated. The following are my powerstrip settings:


To use these just copy them and go to the custom resolution screen in powerstrip then hit the paste button.

This setup allows me to have the HTPC desktop displayed on my 16:9 screen. There are a couple problems with this resolution however. First, on some things in Windows the OK and Cancel buttons are off the screen since there are only 453 vertical pixels. I have overcome this by using tab to blindly hit OK or using the powerstrip tray icon to quickly change to 800x600 and back to 800x453. Second, sometimes when I turn the projector on the image is shifted to one side, I fixed this by programming the effect key to do auto image and included it in the power on macro.

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not all Scart devices are exactly the same. But, for the sake of this discussion, there are two possibilities that should be available to most, if not all, Scart-equipped video devices.

The two possibilities are Scart->SVideo and Scart->VGA. Cables for both types of connections are available. While all, or almost all, Scart devices should be able to go to VGA, not all can go to SVideo. If you check the manual for your device, look for (aside from SVideo) Y/C or S-VHS.

Obviously, the VGA connector should give a better image, but depending on what type of device it is, the SVideo may be perfectly acceptable.

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[7] Controls and Adjustments

[7.1] The Menu

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[7.2] Remotes

Some of the X1 remotes shipping recently do not have the backlight function that earlier remotes had.  (Aug/2003)

mouse control
ScreenPlay remote?
IR codes for remote controls (.pdf / 51KB)

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[7.3] Settings and Calibration

typical settings
using settings from another projector?
recalibrating over lamp life (esp. after first # hours)
factory defaults
Service Mode
cool, warm, warmest settings (bug)
white line at top of 4:3 HDTV, use advanced option to position up

Seems like when I toggle from one preset or color temperature, the correction can be different every time. Like if you were explaining to somebody how to tweak, you'd say Start with film, Go to cool, Increase RGB's, etc.
When you switch to a new mode, video, film or presentation, whatever settings you changed will be erased unless you saved it. The best thing to do is go to film(or whatever mode you like), rgb values will be reset to 50, then make whatever color changes you like, go save a user setting, and that's it. When you go to that user setting that you saved, your rgb settings(and contrast, brightness, etc..) will be set to what you saved before.

The settings available to you depends on which connection you use. On the video connection it has normal color/tint controls and RGB. Through VGA it just has RGB.

A good starting point for settings can be found in this review (requires signup)

There is a proper setting for brightness on a projector. That setting is at the point where pixels of the darkest black (i.e., luminosity level 0) are projecting at the darkest level the projector is capable of producing AND where the adjacent levels (1, 2, 3, 4, and so on) are all distinguishable from each other and from the lowest level 0. If you lower your brightness setting below that point you will "clip" or "crush" the blacks. This happens because you have already lowered luminosity level 0 to the darkest the projector is capable of. If you continue to lower brightness then other luminosity levels, pixels that should be distinguishable from luminosity 0, will be lowered to the same lumosity level as the darkest pixels. Thus, you lose detail in your image.

Same thing happens in reverse with the brightest luminosity levels when you raise contrast above its proper setting.

And the "brightness" and "contrast" controls are badly chosen terms in the early days of the TV industry. They should be called "black level" and "white level," respectively. Usually, there is only one optimal setting for these controls, for a given projector and screen.

The Brightness and Contrast controls are there so you can match your PJ to your various sources, just as has been explained above. The exact electrical signal for "Black" and "White" varys from one DVD player, set top box, VCR, etc, to the next. The controls allow you to adjust your PJ so that when your DVD player (for example) sends the signal for "Black", your PJ projects the darkest grey it can. The same for "White". If you adjust your controls beyond those levels, you will lose shadow and highlight details.

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[7.4] Image Quality

Simulation #1
Simulation #2

A non-scientific poll of X1 projector owners at AVS Forum indicates that approximately 20% never see rainbows, 60% see them sometimes but find it minimal enough that they can live with it, and 20% see them often enough that it bothers them significantly.

Many have reported that they see fewer rainbows or are less bothered by them as time goes on.

I don't think rainbow reduction is follow-the-recipe simple -- too much depends upon your eyes and brain, the size of your screen and the overall brightness of the image and your particular room. Reports of the worst rainbows came from those shooting a smaller image on a higher-gain screen. So going gray will help, a ND filter might ...the overall goal here should be to reduce the whacking brightness of the brightest bits of dark scenes.
bias lighting might help too -- raise the room light level (via _indirect_ lighting) so that the screen image isn't perceived as so overpowering.
I saw fewer rainbows going from a 5' wide to a 75" -wide screen. it'll be a balance of bright-enough vs. too bright.

screendoor, pixelation
If you have very good vision and are bothered by seeing pixels, I recommend a viewing distance of 2x the screen width. 
You can also slightly defocus the projector to reduce the effect.

The SMPTE requirement for movie theater projection is approximately 12 foot lamberts for 100% white. To get foot lamberts from lumens, divide your lumens by screen area in square feet, and then multiply by your screen gain. For instance, take a 1000 lumen projector on a 1.0 gain, 8 foot wide 16:9 screen:

1000 lumens / (8 ft x 4.5 ft) * 1.0 gain = 27.7 foot lamberts, or about double what a movie theater would have.

This assumes that your projector outputs 1000 real (not just spec'd) lumens when connected to your video source, and that the projector gamma is similar to the original film.
At 1000 lumens, the widest I'd go is 8'. After setting it up and calibrating it for video, this sized screen will give you about 15 ft-lamberts, the SMPTE recommended minimum for motion picture screens. Assuming a unity gain screen. ((1000 lumens *.7 for calibration)*1 screen gain)/(8' x 6' for 4:3)=14.6 ft-lamberts.
30 degrees of vision (SMPTE)
Take your total lumens, divide by your square footage, and multiply it by your gain. The X1 is a 4:3 pj, so for 16:9, multiply lumens and screen area by .75--I assume you did this already. But many people feel the X1 in film mode cuts lumens by about 50%, so to be more realistic, start with 500 lumens, then for 16:9 take that times .75 and you get 375 lumens in your 16:9 area. If your 16:9 area square footage is 24.7, and your gain is 1.0, then your fl would be around 15.18. If the picture still feels flat, it may be because your painted wall is less than 1.0 gain, the contrast/brightness are not set correctly, or you have ambient light bouncing from your walls/ceiling that is washing out the picture. 15.18 fl should give you a decent picture.
"The 2000:1 contrast is a result of the optical architecture we designed in combination with the new DDR DLP imaging device which has 12 degree mirrors and a dark metal layer behind them."employee of InFocus
mosquito noise
So called "Mosquito noise" in skies is a very common artifact of MPEG compression. One way to tell if the compression is the cause is to pause the DVD player and see if it stops. If it does not stop, then it could be noise in the analog processing of the DVD player or the projector, and in general this processing is done better by a HTPC (hence the comments that HTPCs reduce "dithering"). Thirdly, it could also be the projector dithering to produce an even gray scale. Even when a HTPC is connected, the projector still needs to dither a bit spatially to prevent contouring of the image. This occurs mainly in dark areas of the image.
ground loops, rolling lines, ground hum, cheater plug
image flaws

dead or stuck pixels
Checking for stuck pixels: Set the screen blank setting to black and look for white spots; set the screen blank to white and look for black spots

"We do not have a dead pixel policy or a zero dead pixel policy for the X1 projector. If the customer wants to resolve the issue, it will have to come in for evaluation and we will determine if it meets Infocus' specifications. If it does not, we will repair it under warranty."
"For the ScreenPlay 110, ScreenPlay 5700, and ScreenPlay 7200, our current policy covers all pixel defects, and is built into our cost of doing business with these products. However, in keeping in line with most DLP projector manufacturers, we do not at this time have a zero dead pixel policy on the X1."

uneven brightness

hot air interference patterns - heat mirage on screen.
To check for this, blank your screen to white, then take a close look at the right half of your screen, you just may see some mirage waves. I confirmed this with my X1, I moved it forward so the exhaust does not hit the tabletop and they disappeared, I also tried a paper deflector & that worked just fine.

[7.5] Modifications

Can the X1 be used with a Panamorph lens without the help of a HTPC? Is it able to stretch the image (anamorph setting?)?
Set the projector to 4:3. Set your DVD player to 16:9. Add the Panamorph, et voila!

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[7.5.1] What modifications have people made to the X1?

First off, be aware that any modification to the projector itself is almost certainly going to void your warranty. Modify it at your own risk.

Some owners have added optical filters in front of the lens of the X1. (see next item)

There has also been discussion of adding an "anamorphic" lens, in order to take advantage of the X1's full 800x600 resolution with 16:9 material. I do not have any details on this mod.

It is recommended that you not modify the projector in an attempt to reduce fan noise, as the designers have put "the best practical low-noise cooling system into the projector already".

One owner has heavily modified his X1. Among his mods are a partially blacked out color wheel, lens iris, blacked out optical engine, and lots of filters.  See his description and photos at this AVS Forum thread.

Another owner has created a modified X1 projector that he calls the "Goo 0.5". No details are available on exactly what modifications were made but some who have seen the projector were impressed by the image quality. See the related AVS Forum thread.

There is another interesting AVS Forum thread discussing the feasibility of using 3 projectors to create the equivalent of a 3-DLP projector (which would eliminate any possibility of rainbows).

It is possible to load the firmware for the SP4800 onto the X1 to take advantage of any feature differences.  See the Firmware section for more details.

Another feasible (but potentially risky) modification would be to alter the firmware files, for example to create a custom startup logo. But I'd suggest leaving that one to the professional hackers.

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[7.5.2] What optical filter modifications have been tried?

The main purpose for adding an optical filter has been to reduce light output, which it is said may also reduce the visibility of the rainbow effect in some cases.

Although the X1 is not threaded for attaching optical filters, a 62mm filter is just the right size to fit snugly inside the plastic bezel of the focus ring. A twist of about a 1/4 turn secures it there.

The most common filters that have been tried are "neutral density" or "polarizing" filters, which are supposed to reduce light output without significantly altering the color balance (although recalibrating is a good idea anyway).

A word of caution when placing a filter in front of the lens. There is the potential to build heat up in the filter, the bezel or the X1 lens itself. But there have been no reports of damage so far.

Based on recommendations of several others I bought both the Hoya 62mm HMC ND 2X Filter and the Hoya 62mm Linear Glass Polarizer. I found both of them online for under $30 each. I tested them out on the X1 and liked the effect. The polarizer did cut the brightness a bit too much so I ended-up sticking with the ND filter. The improvements are that the image is not quite as "edgy", it has more black depth, I notice fewer rainbows and I find it less fatiguing.

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[7.5.3] How about modifying the color wheel?

If you remove the bulb housing you can see the color wheel (photo).

The red/green/blue colored segments of the wheel appear to each be around 100 degrees wide (300 in total), and the white (actually clear) segment appears to be around 60 degrees wide. The white segment is only used when the projector is in Presentation mode, to brighten the image. When the projector is in Video or Film mode, the white segment of the wheel is turned off to give a more accurate color balance.

But what does it mean to "turn off" the white segment? What that really means is that the lamp will still shine on the DLP chip during the white segment, but none of the pixel elements will be turned on to their reflective positions, so the projector will project a blank or "black" picture during the white segment of the wheel.

However, as you might have noticed, even when the projected image is "black" (such as above and below a letterboxed movie), there is still some light reaching the screen that is clearly visible when compared to the area beyond the projector's image area.

This background level of light is caused by reflections off the surface of the DLP chip even when the pixels are turned off, and by stray light that has bounced off other surfaces in the light path.

In an effort to improve the contrast ratio and black levels in Video and Film mode, one modification that might be considered (and which has been used with other DLP projectors) is to black out the white (clear) segment of the color wheel to prevent that background light from escaping through when the white segment is turned off.

However, this modification apparently cannot be used with the X1 because of the optical synchronization of the color wheel.

"The reason we choose to optically sync the DLP chip to the color wheel is so that it automatically calibrates itself at all times. This way, the colors remain perfect forever, never requiring re-calibration as other projectors do.

The X1 syncs at the beginning of the red segment. However, there is a problem if you black out the white segment. We prototyped a blacked-out white segment using a Krylon silver paint pen, and this change caused the sync to change to the beginning of the blue segment (everything that is supposed to be red changes to blue), which will not allow the projector to produce colors properly. So, unfortunately, blacking out the white segment is not an option for the X1."employee of InFocus

So it would appear that completely blacking out the color wheel of the X1 would only cause grief. However, as mentioned in the previous FAQ section, one brave owner did partially black it out and was able to leave enough clear segment exposed so that the projector still worked properly.

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[8] Ongoing Use

[8.1] Care and Maintenance

clean the lamp module air filters every 250 hours

burn-in (lack of)
powering off - cool down - low noise when off
"The X1 is designed so you can simply power it off without running the fans. The lamp and the parts around it have no trouble handling the heat. The lamp is actually happier cooling off slowly than quickly (as most really hot things are), and it just means that you need to wait a bit longer before you turn it on again.
2-3 minutes is pretty much all you need to wait. The lamp needs to be cool enough to successfully re-strike. Lamp life will be slightly degraded each time it does not strike properly."employee of InFocus

Could a firmware upgrade be used to allow people to totally power down the projector via remote?
Unfortunately, to do this would require some additional circuitry inside the projector. When we designed the X1, we felt that the cost tradeoff for this feature did not allow it."employee of InFocus


I had a brief experience with a dust fibre at the top of my picture about a month ago.

After much investigation I discovered that the dust fibre appeared to be just behind the lens. I gave the projector a good blow through the small gap around the lens, and the dust fibre was gone!

Be sure the unit is very cool before you blow it out with air. If it is still warm when you hit it with a blast of cool, compressed air, you can crack things, like glass lenses and capacitors. The reason this happens is that most materials expand during heating and contract when they are cooled. The blower can cool a small area rapidly, and this differential cooling of hard materials like ceramic and glass can cause stress to build up in them, leading them to fracture or shatter.

So unplug that projector and give it at least 30 minutes to cool before you try something like this.

Cleaning the lens:

The coatings on most glasses are different from the types of coatings on optical surfaces. They're made to be handled with no ill effects. Projector lenses have the same type of coatings as fine optics: telescopes, cameras, etc. These coatings can be affected by the oils in hands, airborne pollutants, smoke etc. Many of these coatings are fairly fragile. On camera lenses, camcorders etc. I highly recommend installing a clear uv or skylight filter as protection. Helps protect the actual lens from scratches, fingerprints etc. Also it can be cleaned repeatedly, and then discarded at minimal cost. That way you almost never clean the actual lens itself. If you transport your projector, or have it in any other high risk environment; on a table, smokey or dusty environment, its probably not a bad idea to do this too. (if your projector takes screw on filters) Otherwise the SMART filters, or any other color correction filter you tweak with will accomplish this too. (the cinema filter on the HS10)

As far as cleaning goes, eyeglass cleaner may or may not be a bad idea. I don't know the individual formulas to say. Never ever use any ammonia-based cleaner, windex, window glass cleaner!!! They'll eat most optical finishes right off.

What you want to use is the same thing you'd use to clean a camera lens. I don't recommend the 'cleaning cloths' They're fine when they're brand new, but they tend to pick up dirt. Whether you can see it or not, its there and it'll leave scratches. I prefer good old kodak lens paper and lens cleaning fluid. Its harder to find than it used to be. A lot of camera stores have generic brands, and while they're probably not going to harm anything, I find that they tend to streak too easily. Otherwise, check out these links for some other materials: astronomics

edmunds scientific

The pens and brushes are good for 'touch-up' cleanings. Use them when dust-off doesn't work for little specks. Remember, some dust/dirt on a lens will not be noticeable. Don't overclean your optics! Every time you clean a lens you ARE scratching it! Your ARE affecting the optical coatings. It may be slight, it may be imperceptible, but over time, it MAY add up. Also, anytime you are cleaning, you are risking damaging the lens. So, just use moderation.

Cleaning instructions: I assume now you have cleaning paper, fluid and dust-off(or some type of compressed air in a can.) Blow off the lens with dust-off to remove any large or loose dust. Take a sheet of the paper and wad it up slightly. I usually wad it up so that I'm holding it by the edges, and the center of the paper becomes a little 1/4" dia. surface. (sorry for the bad description) Do what works for you. Basically you want a little tip thats loosely wadded to clean with. Take the lens fluid and place a drop on the tip of the paper. NEVER put fluid directly on the lens!!! It can run into the side of the lens and get into the inner surfaces. You do not want to have to have your lens disassembled to clean it! Take the wetted cloth and lightly rub in a circular motion, (pick one direction, clockwise or ccw and go with it) working from the outside, to the inside. You don't want to push dirt to the edges where it will get stuck, or worse work its way inside the optics. You want to 'lift' the dirt off the lens. Do not rub hard! Part of the reason for the loose wadding of the paper, is to keep from pressing down. If necessary (for more than just dust:smoke, something sticky), repeat with a new piece of paper and fluid. Never reuse a piece! Usually my last step is to take a dry piece and lightly wipe (circular motion, out to in) and that will remove any remaining dust or moisture as well as streaks. Last step is to blow off any lint or remaining dust with dust off.

Hopefully this will help you do it right. -SDJ

BTW please use care when cleaning optics. Particles can exist airborne, or in your cleaning materials, that could damage your optics. While I do stand behind my cleaning methods, which I have garnered from years of experience and other sources, understand you do so at your own risk.

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[8.2] The Bulb

150 Watt DC SHP (Super High Pressure) Mercury Arc Lamp

lamp life (was 3000 hours, now 4000 hours)

"Longer lamp life with software upgrade - The X1 lamp life specification has changed from 3,000 hours to 4,000 hours. This upgrade is effective for all X1 projectors with software version 4.1 or higher. This change is based on lamp life data we have collected since the X1 was released. Nothing in the product itself was changed. Projectors using earlier software versions can be upgraded to take advantage of the new lamp counter configuration."InFocus official

"The lamp life is tested using the proposed ANSI method, which means that lamps are run in projectors for 2 hours on and then 15 minutes off, continuously, to try to mimic a typical use model. This testing is done in multiple units. All of our current data show that the lamp in the X1, on average, meets or exceeds its 3,000 hour rating."employee of InFocus (statement made prior to increase to 4000 hour rating)

Projector settings (brightness/contrast/color) do not effect bulb life.

replacements started at $495 US, have since dropped to about $299 US

Will bulb prices come down significantly, like to the $100 range?

"The material costs of mercury arc lamps (which are the most efficient light sources in the world for their wattage) are very high. The purity of the tungsten electrodes exceeds 99.9999% and the quartz envelope surrounding the electrodes is also ultra-pure so that it can contain the 7,000 degree Kelvin plasma arc. To sell a lamp for $100 right now, we would be offering it below material cost. That being said, projector lamps are getting less expensive due to automation, competition, and higher volume production. For instance, the X1 lamp sells for $299, which I believe is the lowest price we have ever offered a lamp for in a current product."employee of InFocus

would it be prudent to buy a replacement bulb now and keep it around for future?
Are there any shelf-life issues with bulbs?
Run your projector for 90 days ... then buy a replacement lamp. Put your old lamp on the shelf as your backup.
I say this because Infocus only warranties their lamps for 90 days from proof of purchase. The last thing you need is to buy a $300 lamp, put it on a shelf for a year, have it pop the day you install it ... and have Infocus tell you it is not warrantied.


light output over time
normal failure
"For the X1, the failure mechanism for the lamp is that it will extinguish itself or no longer light due to the arc gap being too big (it slowly burns back over time). Sometimes the lamp will explode due to manufacturing defects, but the rate of explosions with this lamp is extremely low (so low that it is difficult to measure)."employee of InFocus
The screens on the lamp housing are there to protect the end user and the projector's internals from glass shards in the very rare case of lamp explosion.

premature failure
Small changes in brightness that occur periodically over many minutes are normal for most arc-lamp projectors. The brightness change indicates a repositioning of the arc and does not correspond to any serious problem with the projector. However, if the lamp is changing brightness quickly or pulsing, then you should get it replaced under warranty.

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[8.3] Firmware

[8.3.1] What is Firmware?

Firmware is software which is stored in hardware so that it is persistent even when the device is powered off.  In the case of the X1, the installed firmware operates and controls the functions of the projector. The firmware in the X1 was designed to be upgradable in order to add new features or fix problems in existing features.

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[8.3.2] What firmware upgrades are available?

"CAUTION - For a successful upgrade, follow the instructions carefully. Avoid interrupting the software upgrade once you've started it from your PC. Disrupting the upgrade process by removing cables or disconnecting the power before the upgrade completes can damage the projector. Projector damage caused by disrupted, incomplete or aborted upgrades is not covered by warranty. All shipping and repair expenses for projector service stemming from incomplete software upgrades are at customer expense."InFocus official

Loading new firmware erases your settings! Write them down first if you want to save them.

X1 Firmware (InFocus site)

Other sources of X1 Firmware, including older and alternate versions:

Upgrading the Firmware on the X1 (.pdf / 130KB)

Follow the instructions.  The most commonly overlooked step is that you must hold down both the Keystone buttons on top of the projector as you power it up.


X1 Software Revision History

Software Version


  • Fixed remote mouse issue. Remote mouse now continues to respond beyond 5 minutes.
  • Correct Norwegian translation for volume
  • Lamp counter now allows 4,000 hours of operation for a single lamp. Prior versions allowed 3,000 hours. Longer life rating due to data collected since the X1 was released.
  • Sync Threshold control in the Picture/Advanced menu allows a broader range of use with Progressive DVD players. The default value works for the large percentage of the DVDs and the other option allows those others that have issues to function. The Sync Threshold menu option is only available for the Computer input.
  • Auto source default setting is "On"
  • Corrects image blanking during power down
  • Corrects leftward image shift for 720p50, 1080i23, 1080i24, and 1080i25 sources
  • Improves video synchronization with wide variety of source signals
  • The Ceiling and Rear projection modes could not be enabled if the projector had not synchronized with a source signal.
  • The image could exhibit occasional instability near the top when the projector was connected to a 480p video source. The instability was most visible when a 4:3 aspect ratio was selected.
  • When the overscan option is enabled, the projector properly centers video images from NTSC and PAL sources. This also applies to images from 480p video sources. 
  • The projector more quickly identifies a broader range of signals in any operating mode.
  • Updated French, Portuguese, Italian & Norwegian translations
  • Disable debug messages on USB disconnect
  • Flags removed from the language menu
  • Phone numbers removed from splash screen
  • Enabled support for Overscan button on Director remote


  • Initial release


InFocus ScreenPlay 4800 firmware (InFocus site)

Not officially compatible with X1 projector *

* It is possible to load SP4800 firmware on the X1 by some minor file alterations (as discussed here), or by using an altered set of files circulated as "" and available from some of the unofficial firmware download sites listed above.


ScreenPlay 4800 Software Revision History

Software Version


  • Fixed remote mouse issue. Remote mouse now continues to respond beyond 5 minutes.
  • Correct Norwegian translation for volume
  • Lamp counter now allows 4,000 hours of operation for a single lamp. Initial release version allowed 3,000 hours. Longer life rating due to data collected since the SP4800 was released.
  • Sync Threshold control in the Picture/Advanced menu allows a broader range of use with Progressive DVD players. The default value works for the large percentage of the DVDs and the other option allows those others that have issues to function. The Sync Threshold menu option is only available for the Computer input.
  • Auto source default setting is "Off"
  • This software version was released for only one day and then pulled from the InFocus site. The next official release after v1.1 is v1.4
  • The recent posting of 1.3 was an error.employee of InFocus
  • Corrects menu always appearing in the upper left corner, which is not always part of the display area
  • Extended lamp life to 4000 hours


  • Initial release


I have no problem with X1 owners re-flashing their projectors with ScreenPlay 4800 firmware. I only meant to say that the firmware upgrade program (called FlashUSB) will not currently allow it with the firmware files that exist today.
The removal of v1.3 from our website has nothing to do with this issue.
employee of InFocus

There will be future firmware upgrades for both the X1 and the ScreenPlay 4800. There are no current plans to modify the flashing software to allow owners of one platform to flash the firmware of another.
The lamp and the way it is driven is exactly the same in both products. I would suggest, therefore, that any lamp-related enhancements on one would also be added to the other at nearly the same time.
employee of InFocus

firmware versions on different brands?
If possible, obtain the latest firmware versions from your projector vendor.
Failing that, I've had a report that X1 firmware can be loaded on the Toshiba MT100.  So it is likely that OEM'd code versions identify themselves to the firmware flashing program as being either an X1 or SP4800 (depending on which code the OEM'd version is based on).  So those with OEM'd projectors should be able to keep up with the latest X1 or SP4800 code versions directly from InFocus without having to worry about their projectors becoming firmware orphans.  (However, be aware that unless you have access to original firmware files from your OEM, you will not be able to restore your projector to the original firmware with your OEM's logo after loading standard X1 or SP4800 firmware.)


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[9] Problems and Solutions

I am having problems with loss of signal (blue screen) issues while watching DVD's on my X1.
you lose 5 odd seconds.
it seems to happen when there is a flash of very bright light.
Bright flashes causing about a 5 sec. blue screen before resync.

The issue with component video losing sync has been corrected in the 2.9 firmware for the X1.

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How can I tell if I have a dead or stuck mirror in my DLP array?  Display an all black screen (800x600) and look for odd pixels, then display an all white screen (800x600) and look for odd pixels. (you can do this by setting the Blank Screen setting)
If you don't find any, you don't have a problem.

I sometimes hear a high-pitched whine from my X1, is that normal?

Half the noise on a X1 tends to be the color wheel.

Try this:

Shut the unit down via the power switch, and -immediately- turn it on again. (Just a quick 'click-click' with the power switch!) After a few seconds the color wheel will stop turning because it cannot sync to the bulb...which is OFF...and you will have chance to hear the fans alone. Let the projector run for a minute like this to ensure that the bulb is properly cooled. You have to let the bulb cool, as is usual. Then shut the unit fully off again. You will get the flashing red light, indicating a bad bulb.. but this is due to the fact that the power supply will not immediately strike the bulb on again, which is a good thing. The machine is acting like it is dealing with a temporary power outage...and protecting itself...which it is!

This will allow you to figure out how loud your particular color wheel is, compared to the fans.

The bearings on the color wheels naturally get a bit louder as they age. The change in noise level is usually noticeable. It does not mean that it is worn out! They just naturally get louder.

Only worry about the color wheel if your machine starts 'flashing' with weird colored 'double' images, etc. This means the color wheel is loosing sync. It may 'flicker' in a very, very quick fashion if the wheel is loosing sync. I mean very quick. Almost like a imperceptible 'flashbulb' kind of effect.

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I'm seeing two complete images when I use component input.
You may be trying to send a 480p component signal to the S-Video component adapter.  It only accepts 480i.  For 480p you will need the VGA component adapter.

I connected my DVD player to the component input using an adapter on the VGA port, but I'm not getting a picture.
Check that your DVD player is capable of 480p (progressive) video.  Ensure that you have it set for progressive.  Some players need to be set in two places.  Some players have a progressive switch on the outside (perhaps on the back).  Select the "Computer" input on the X1.

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There were dim dark bands marching up the screen when the picture is relatively dark. When the picture is white or a bright color, the bands disappear.
Sounds like ground hum bars to me. If you have cable-TV hooked up to your system anywhere, unplug it and see if it goes away. You can also try lifting the ground on the projector with a "cheater plug" (receives 3 prong plug, but only has 2 prongs). If the cable-TV is the problem, a video ground-breaker that goes on your cable-TV line that may help.

I have faint, wide bands slowly scrolling up the screen.

"It is a ground loop, which is caused by a difference between the signal ground and the chassis ground of the projector. If you have cable TV (which tends to be the culprit due to its ground being potentially a half mile away), disconnect it from the wall and the scrolling bands will probably go away. To fix it you will need an isolation transformer or you need to lift the ground of the projector (which is not recommended because you will reduce the safety of the product)."employee of InFocus

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My pj is sitting on a table and the image is about 5 feet wide. On the top right corner, running about a foot and a half towards the left and the same distance running down the right side,there is a one inch border of light . I have tried adjusting the pj but cannot get it to go away.
The border you are seeing on the upper right that goes left and down is the outline of the DMD.  If you use a black mask around your screen this should no longer be visible.

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A strange rainbow line appeared. It's a thin squiggly line that goes up from the bottom of the screen. It is blue red and yellow and kind of vibrates a little bit. That's the best that I can describe it. Does anybody know what this could be?
A fiber of something has gotten within the light path.  Let the lamp cool and then blow around the lens and vent areas to try to dislodge it.

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My colors look a little washed out and dull.
Have you guys played around with the advanced colors settings? I cranked mine up to above 90 (well, tried it at 70 first, that helped a lot too) for all three colors now and the picture has come alive with color! One of my few complaints was it sometimes looked a bit washed out looking. This complaint is now GONE.

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When I first power-up my X1, I have a lot of grey pixels splattered all over the screen (which is otherwise black). When the picture comes on, all pixels look completely normal. Is something wrong with my projector? Is this something a shot of compressed air will fix?
In the powered off state, the DLP mirrors can assume an intermediate position and look gray. Once the chip is powered up, all the mirrors are back under control of the electrostatic drivers and point in the proper directions for on and off. So, all the pixels go "normal" once the power up process ends. I wouldn't be too concerned about the undefined state they are in prior to chip initialization. If they work during normal operation, they are fine. Remember, every single one of them is flipping back and forth very rapidly. A broken mirror would stay in the wrong state.  A blast of air won't do anything for this. The DLP is sealed so nothing can contaminate the device. A tiny speck of dust would be enough to jam a mirror so they are built under clean conditions and completely sealed by a clear window.

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[10] Glossary

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