Mt. Colonel Foster
North Tower, North Buttress 5.8, (III)
Hike along the well maintained Elk River Trail to Landslide Lake. Follow the winding trail on east side of Landslide Lake through slide alder and Conifers up to the cirque (foster lake) below the East face of Mt. Colonel Foster. Cross the stream and continue up the old terminal moraines, then bushwhack up the large timber to the boulder field above. This takes about 1hr from the cirque through steep blue berry bushes. Continue west on the boulder field and up a wide loose scree gully towards the North Col. Swing north (right) at the top of this scree gully to gain the easy short ridge to the north Col. The 13 km hike in takes about 5½ - 7½ hrs with 1300 metres of elevation gain. There are two good options for obtaining water. Melt the snow/ice at the base of the north gully or walk about 150m SW past and down from the small snow/ice field to reach the stream.
Elkhorn landslide lake foster lake sunset
1. 55m, 5.8: Start at the toe of the buttress just below the big grassy/heather ledge. Climb cracks to this ledge; continue up the steep blocky groove to easier rock and another ledge. Climb a short (5m) steep left facing corner to another good belay ledge.
2. 60m, low 5th: Move left to the easy right slanting dyke/ramp. Continue up ramp for a full rope length. Note many steep face cracks above ramp.
3. 60m, 5.8. Continue until near top of ramp then take 5.8 face cracks for 20m to a big ledge. Climb the next steep imposing right slanting hand crack with a big semi-detached flake. Good belay ledge. Walk to left side of ledge for the next pitch.
 great face crack |
finishing pitch 3 |
4. 60m, 5.7. Traverse out left on a slating flake to a loose block. Continue up another steeper dyke/ramp, where a few difficult sections can be bypassed to the right. Poor gear. Belay on top of buttress crest. Hike up and rap 15m into wide gulley with seasonal snow.
 start pitch 4 |
 dyke |
 15m rap |
5. 30m, 5.7. Scramble across the gully and up very loose scree and blocks to the major left facing corner crack. (there are many corner crack options here) Climb corner on left side with some stemming to the giant summit blocks. Scramble up left on ridge and then back right to summit.
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scrambling up to pitch 5 |
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 scrambling summit blocks |
 towards gold river |
| big rappel | north gully | top of north gully | looking to bottom of north gully |