SIDE BENDING TOOLS: MAKE YOUR OWN BENDING IRON
Here we present a diagram for
making your own iron. This is based on the bending iron
kit we used to make and sell. It works very well, and is
inexpensive. The simplest of materials are used: a 250 or
300 watt light bulb as the heat source, and a rheostat as
the heat control and switch. More difficuit to obtain is
a section of pipe. (Aluminum boat mast would be ideal if
it's available without the traveler channel) Otherwise, 4"
seamless steel pipe (mechanical tubing) is good. If you
like the tear-drop cross section, you can form the shape
by jigging up with two hydraulic jacks and bar stock and
stretching the iron. Or, the pipe can be squeezed in a
lever but the results are somewhat unpredictable. There
are asbestos substitutes - fiber-board like materials -
that can be spaced between the iron and the wood (or
metal) base. It is not necessary to cap the iron for heat
retention, but it does help, and it is a good idea to
secure the cap-piece well in case the iron is jarred and
the bulb is broken. We have had a report of a bulb
imploding, and the cap-piece provided protection. We have
had ours in use for 5 or more years, with no imploding
bulbs, but it's not unwise to be cautious.
Bill of materials for making your own iron:
1. Bending pipe and steel sheet
to cover top
2. Metal base/attached switch, power cord, and light
socket
3. 6"x 6"x 1/4" heat insulating board (Duraboard)
4. 3"x 3"x 3-1/2" wood clamping block
5. 1/2"x 3/16" stove bolts (2)
6. Carriage bolts: 1/2"x 3/16" (4); 2-1/4"x
3/16" (4); 3-1/4"x 1/4" (4)
7. 1-1/2"x 3/16" eyebolts (4)
8. Nuts: 3/16" (12); 1/4" (4); 5/16" nut
to be used as spacers (16). Washers: 3/16" (12)
9. Pointer knob
10. Wood strips for louvers (6)
