Posted: 10/15/04
Well like much of what I do, original plans usually fall by the wayside due to lack of time or ambition. I had planned something grander than what you will see on this project, but time constraints (and the project sitting aside for too long) slightly changed plans.
Now where to start… the beginning I guess?
After the headache of the Matrix, the Angel not quite being what I was looking for in a marker (still worked well though), and the nightmare of two Impulses (Had to get a second one to make sure I still hated the first one!), it was time to start looking for another marker. Even a slingshot was sounding appealing and a lot less frustrating! My next choice was going to be an Intimidator. The logic at the time was that if I had any problems, there was a ton of guys local that could help me with it. However, my ‘ol buddy Hughie “Hooie” Graham from Splat Entertainment gave me an alternative to consider: the AKA Viking. Hooie did a real smashup job singing its praises. Not enough to make me want to run out and buy one immediately, but definitely enough to make it a contender for my next marker purchase. After doing a little more research on the AKA forum over on PBNation, I had decided to make the Viking my next marker. Maybe common sense had left me at this time, especially since I was considering purchasing a marker that not only was a rarity at best, but also one I’ve never seen let alone shot, but I was impressed with what I read. What turned me on to this particular one was the high praises many users had, and I’m not talking about the usual “this is the best marker ever!” crowd of 15 year olds that usually populates forums. Many of the AKA converts were experienced players who’ve been through a variety of markers and found “the one” once they switched to AKA. I was left with the impression that this was a no-nonsense, low maintenance, and hard working gat. AKA had also started to have WAS make the boards for the Vikings around this time. I managed to find a local (within Canada) fellow who not only had one of the newer Vikings in stock, but also had the coveted eyes for them! So, I got to be Dan “RevBubba” Smith first sale of a Viking. :-)
So let’s get down to the facts about this marker without getting into too much boring detail. The Viking is an open bolt, electronic semi automatic Paintball marker. Simple, no? Okay, maybe that was a little too cut and dry…
The 2003 Viking I had was a pretty good slab of aluminum. “Blocky” by most people’s standards but this thing isn’t built to be pretty in the dead box. You could order a Viking from the factory as unmilled, half-milled, and full milled. Don’t expect a lot of weight removal on the milling though. Milling on these markers primarily consisted of cutting angled lines in the body, similar to dragging a serrated knife across butter (for a lack of a better description). The factory anodizing is a “Type-3” hard anodizing – military grade with a very high Rockwell hardness rating. Perfect for the ditch diggers out there! About the only way you’re scratching this thing is if you try to drag it behind your car as an anchor. It’s best to pick the colour of marker you want straight from the factory because if you try to remove the anno, you will void your warranty! AKA makes it’s products to very tight tolerances, so removing or altering the anno or parts of the marker will ruin these tolerances. I don’t know about you, but I don’t like the idea of screwing up a lifetime warranty on a $1000+ marker just because of cosmetics. Similar idea with milling. It is possible to mill these markers, but re-annoing them after is pretty slim. AKA did offer raw bodies for those who wanted to mill and anno their own markers. The finished bodies were sent back to AKA after modification, then was built to their tolerances, and given the lifetime warranty.
Grip frames were available in a single or double trigger configuration, and a choice of style for double trigger. After-market triggers are available too in several different styles and manufacturers. I had opted to get the JMJ Razorblade trigger with mine (stock double trigger shown in pic). The stock frame came with Houge grip panels, but any standard 45 grip should fit, and my Dye Sticky 3’s fit very nicely on the frame.
Vikings come stock with AKA’s infamous Sidewinder regulator, which run the marker at a pressure of 175 to 200 psi. Due to the high range of input pressure that can be put into the Sidewinder, running either an adjustable or preset tank is not a problem. It also comes with AKA’s popular Lightning Bolt, which gained it’s reputation for low pressure and high flow on such markers as the Autococker.
The stock feed neck is like any other feed neck with no adjustments. After-market clamping necks were available for them if you found the need for one. CCM in one manufacturer that makes these clamping feed necks.
Perhaps one of the biggest improvements on the AKA line was the addition of the WAS board in it’s electro’s. The old “Nelson” boards that were previously in these markers were notorious for going “dumb”, which means the board would lose it’s programming. Once this happened, it was a sign the board was going south. While there were many devoted Nelson advocated out there, like one poster had told me: “it’s not a question of IF the board goes dumb, it’s a question of WHEN”. Other manufacturers like Goldie from Vaporworks were also in the process of making their own boards for those who didn’t like the WAS boards (or to spite Jim Drew). The WAS board lets you change such settings as the eye mode, dwell, and debounce through the trigger. There’s no LCD to tell what your board settings are at, but this can all be done through a code of light projected through the LED at the rear of the marker.
The body I has was one of the newer styles that was pre-drilled for eyes to go with the WAS board (new board manufacturers utilize these same holes). In addition, it also had one of the new Humphrey solenoids, which is reputed to be faster and more readily available than it’s predecessor; the MAC solenoid. The eyes on the body were mounted using electrical tape at first. The proper eye covers from JMJ hadn’t been released yet at this time (seen in pic above). It had a sort of “ghetto” look, but hey it worked at the time!
Although a small touch, it was impressive to see AKA include critical things like a bottle of marker oil, as well as well padded marker bag to protect the new investment. This is the only manufacturer that I’ve come across so far to give a marker bag! A diskette containing the manual was also included, as well as other papers noting some basic instructions.
So let’s start with the basics if you’re unfamiliar with the principal of the operation of a marker with eyes. Now, the idea of the eyes is to aid in prevention of chopping the ball (Notice I never said anything about totally stopping chops!). A ball falls into the chamber and breaks a beam projected in between the eyes. This lets the board know that a ball is in the chamber and that it’s safe to fire the marker. If the beam is not broken, the marker will not fire. Should the eyes fail to read a ball or malfunction, you can bypass the eyes and allow the marker to fire at a reduced rate of fire (ROF). The stock capped ROF on the WAS board was 12 BPS with the eyes off, but the ROF is rated as “unlimited” with the eyes on. The Viking is capable of 30+ BPS with the eyes on.
Initially my eyes weren’t working (unknown to me until later) due to light getting through the tape that was on them, but the marker still had an impressive speed. My ROF increased slightly to around 14 BPS once I got the eyes working. While this may not sound like much to the average player, I’ll never admit to having the fastest trigger fingers and 14 BPS is probably the fastest speed I’ve ever hit!
My first test firing was done at a local field, and all I have to say is WOW! After emptying a couple hoppers in the chrony room, I couldn’t believe how quick and trouble free the marker was shooting. There was a variance of around +/- 5 BPS across the chrony, but I attributed this to inconsistent paint, and the fact the regulator still needed to be broken in. It’s not unheard of to have one of these markers shoot +/- 2 BPS. As for the on field testing… lets just say by the time I was done, I was walking off the field shaking! After the string of troubles I’ve had with various Electros, I don’t think I’ve ever been so excited with the performance of a marker. It shot flawlessly! Long, straight, and accurate: just the way I like it! Game time performance proved to be just as good. I don’t have exact numbers for efficiency from my own use, but I’ve heard numbers of up to ¾ of a case of paint off of a 4500 psi fill from other members on AKA’ forum in PBNation.com. I’ve had a number of people convert over to the AKA family because of this marker.
Speed, accuracy, and efficiency; what more could you want out of a marker? AKA’s Viking is truly a marker that lives up to and surpasses the hype!
May of 2004 was a dark day for all AKA fans. Due to a legal agreement with the “Empire of Evil” (a.k.a.: Smart Parts), AKA had to cease production of Vikings and Excalibers. On a good note, AKA is still allowed to make parts and service the markers, so ones that are still out there are far from obsolete. I’ve heard a few people preaching doom and gloom for AKA saying that they’ll be gone within six months of the agreement. What these people don’t know is that AKA is a small part of it’s parent company – Leads Metal Products – so they show no sign of folding any time soon.
Addendum (Jan.03, 2010); I recently visited AKA's website, and although they're out of the marker business, they do still make their regulators, valves, and some other products.
Vikings were retailing for approximately $1200 CDN, with additional costs for the eyes, eye covers, triggers etc.
For more information on these markers, go to www.akalmp.com or to the AKA forum on www.pbnation.com
SNIPER BOB, 2000-20010