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For sight-seeing and suggested days out please go
to “Excursions” where there are 2 major
tours and
8 day-trips which should interest you. This page is about those “other”
days.
Recreation | Nightlife
| Feste | Vino | Restaurants
| Bagni di Lucca (8 km away)
and its Spas
The very word Bagni of course means that
there
has to be a Spa here! In fact the waters of this area were certainly
regarded as being highly efficacious as far back as Roman times
if not before.
There are numerous Spas across Tuscany,
not
least those of Montecatini Terme and Chianciano, and many places have
(see
Excursions 'Pinocchio and Pianos')
invested
hugely in the building of edifices to water worship. That said the
waters
of Bagni di Lucca or Bagni de Corsena as it was known up to about 1600,
have
always been recognised as beuing of superior quality:"the very high
therapeutic value of our waters...remains incontestable and they spring
forth in a clean,
restful atmosphere" (to quote the ubiquitous tortured 'Anglitalian'
used
all over Italy).
The first known brochure promoting Bagni's
spa
waters is believed to be the one published in 1471 and since then
almost
the world and his wife has arrived. The list of notables is almost
endless
- including various Popes and politicians, as well as Shelley, the
Brownings
and Dumas and indeed includes some, such as Falloppio the anatomist,
who
might actually have known something about their chemical
properties!
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In the 19th century especially, Bagni was
an
important 'watering hole' on the Grand Tour boasting the workld's first
Casino(where Roulette was invented), an Anglican church and an English
cemetery(where President
Calvin Coolidge's sister is buried!).
TODAY BAGNI OFFERS THE VISITOR THE WHOLE
RANGE
OF CURATIVE AND PREVENTITIVE TREATMENTS AS WELL AS MUD AND MASSAGE!
One of our guests writes:
"Can one ever be TOO relaxed?!" Three
hours
of pampering at Terme Bagni Di Lucca had myself, and a friend,
pondering
that question. We had just indulged in a visit to the spa, where we
absolutely
adored our Fango (mud) wraps, mineral baths, massages, and facials...
we
were told beforehand that Bagni di Lucca's waters were "the best in
Italy...or so said the Romans" - well, they seem to have known their
stuff.
We walked into the spa's elegant
surroundings
as weary travellers, complaining of muscle aches and stiffness. After
the
technicians worked their magic, we walked out into the sunshine,
feeling
as though we were carefree, soft-skinned angels, floating on
clouds!
I must admit I felt a little
apprehension
prior to my visit, because the only Italian I've mastered, is the word
"Ciao."
That was not a problem, I quickly discovered, because the spa
technicians
are excellent communicators, and led us through the entire
beautification
process with tremendous ease. They took great care in tending to our
comfort,
and secured our personal articles in lockers, in each room where
services
were performed.
Thermal spas are my passion, and I
have
visited many famous facilities throughout the United States, and other
countries.
Terme Bagni Di Lucca, with its sulphate-bicarbonate-calcium enriched
waters, surpasses all of them in historic background, quality of
services, and value.
My friend and I selected the spa's
Trattamento
"Jean Varraud," which is the basic day package.. .when we booked the
day
before I recall telling the receptionist that essentially what I wanted
was
to be 'a NEW woman.' I was not to be disappointed!
It cost - including a facial (an
optional
extra) - each of us 91 Euros. The exact same services would have run
$300,
we agreed, in the United States. This means that we had enjoyed three
hours
in paradise, for less than a third of the "normal" cost!
Our visit to the spa at Terme Bagni
Di
Lucca was a delightful detour in our journey through Tuscany, and one
we
would recommend to anyone who appreciates the ultimate in spa
indulgence!
Amy Wilson, New Albany, Indiana, June
2002.
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| “Sportin’ Life”
Swimming and the Beaches
At the Mulino, sitting as we do right on
the
side of the Torrente Fegana, we have the opportunity to dam the river
every
June which provides a crystal clean “swimming hole” which many of our
guests
have enjoyed over the last few years – especially their children.
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| Bagni di Lucca itself has the most
superb Thermal Piscine, which costs the princely sum of € 4 for
adults for a day – children half-price. It has a little bar where you
can get snacks. |
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| We are just about an hour
by car from the Tuscan Riviera, which of course has “everything” that
you would expect from
a beach-style place.
Most swimming on the Med is
‘Bagno-style’
which means serviced beach areas – which given the amenities they
provide
are fair value – they charge around € 25 for a family of four for a day
and that includes deck chairs, umbrellas, sunbeds and changing
facilities with shower... and of course, a loo; some have little bars
where they serve a
snack lunch..
We recommend your going to Forte
dei
Marmi which is just north of Viareggio itself, and where we have a
“relationship’
with one of the nicer Bagnos – we include one day free, if you stay a
week, as part of the deal.
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Fishing
In Italy, if you buy a 3 month fishing
license
(about € 10 from the Vigili Urbani)) you may fish every river there is!
At the Mulino our river has brown trout.
In addition there are fishing clubs –
open
to Visitors at both Barga and Diecimo (12 kms) where the sport is more
varied.
Should you wish for someone to show you
the
ropes that can be organized.
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| Cycling/Mountain-biking
Bicycles and mountain bikes can be hired
by
the hour day or week in Lucca – one of the things many guests have
enjoyed
is to hire a tandem and pedal the walls. There are many trails for the
“vertical” enthusiast... whilst of course the major professional
“Tours” most particularly the Giro d’Italia are followed avidly by all
Italians...not least here for
the Great Cippolini is a Toscano. The Giro is in May.
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| Walking/Rambling/Trekking
/Rock-climbing
We are extremely well served for walking
enthusiasts. The Orrido di Botri, Monte Rondinaio, the Garfagnana
itself, San Pellegrino and the Pania di Corfino are just a few rambling
”centres”
on our doorstep. ‘Rifiugi’ (little huts/refuges) are available stopping
or
overnight camping. Excellent maps are available.
Guide services are available at:
- Campeggio Pian’d’a Mora – (0039 –
0583 74426 or 0039
0583 86525)
- Coop. Terra Uomini Ambiente –
Castelnuovo Garfagnana
(0039 0583 644344)
- And Information Offices at
Castelnuovo, Barga and
Bagni di Lucca (0039 0583 644242)
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| Horseback Riding
If you wish over the weekend to hack
across
the Fegana valley, horse-riding is available in the forests above the
mill. If you are interested in a more involved excursion on
horseback, please take
a look at our "Sui Dorsi dei Cavalli"
excursion!
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| Tennis
Bagni di Lucca has an excellent if small
Tennis
Club with four first class hard courts ...and a bar! Rackets can be
hired
but you must have proper shoes of course
Volleyball
Volleyball is almost the Village game in
Italy
so there are many courts all over.
Basketball
The Palazzo del Sport at Lucca has a top
quality
basketball court
Golf
There are three eighteen-hole courses
within
an hour’s journey from the Mill: at Tirrenia on the Coast near
Pisa;
at Pietrosanta just north of Viareggio; and at Montecatini.
| Skiing
One of Italy’s principal skiing
resorts,
Abetone, is just 40 curvy kilometres from the Mill – so it probably
will
take you an hour to get there.
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“Fast Little Red Motor Cars”
The Ferrari Museum at Maranello is over
the
hill from Abetone – a glorious 2 hour plus drive through spectacular
scenery...
the museum is pretty good too!
Spectator Sports
Italy’s main spectator sport is of
course
soccer........invariably Sunday afternoon. Lucca’s stadium is on the
east
of the City...though one has to say they haven’t been playing too well
in
the last 3 or 4 years! There are horse-race and, most
particularly,
trotting courses at Pisa and Montecatini.
For “Night Birds”
Discotheques/Bars
We have two large Discos within 5 miles
of
the Mill - Jo-Jo’s and Skylab, both of which have hot-spots for the
younger
set and a dance floor usually with a full blown orchestra for the more
sedate
of us! Entrance costs about € 8 and drinks are at normal bar prices. We
have
also both in Lucca and around here a goodly number of “fun” bars.
Theatres
At Bagni, there is the Teatro Accademico
which
often has plays or musical evenings in the summer; whilst in Lucca,
there
is the famous Teatro Giglio where Pavarotti amongst others, had his
Theatrical debut.
Also visit Lucca On Stage
for
more information about theatrical and cultural events in and around
Lucca.
| Opera/Jazz/Concerts
The principal Opera festival is,
of
course, the Puccini Festival at Torre del Lago – about 45
mins away
– which runs from late July to mid August (open air) and invariably
features
3 of the great man’s works... and is totally super!
Be sure to buy at least
second-best
tickets (and take binoculars or opera glasses!) - tickets at this level
cost
about € 55
Smaller Opera Festivals are held
at
Barga.
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There are jazz festivals at Pistoia, Barga,
Lucca and Viareggio. For those more pop-oriented, the Lucca music
Festival always has top liners featured such as Elton John, Joe Cocker,
Ray Charles, Natalie Cole, Lionel Ritchie and Bob Dylan.
Throughout the summer there are often
concerts
both in the piazzi in Lucca and Barga and elsewhere , most especially
at
some of our Villas.
| Feste
There are probably over 1000
separate
festas in Tuscany in any given year – including the Palio at Siena, the
Giocco
del Ponte and the Luminara at Pisa, the Santa Croce in Lucca , the
Giostra
di Saraceno in Arezzo and the Calcio Storico at Florence (the B IG
ones)
- the best plan is therefore to check Dan’s Feste Guide.
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Vino
| If you are coming by car – do
yourself a mega-favour and save the Petrol cost...easy-peezy!– buy a
demigiana (54 litres – 72 bottles)
and get it filled with some excellent Toscano. When you get home and
have
a real “bottle(ing) party” you’ll have some first class drinking wine
for
under £1 a bottle.........better than you buy at the local
supermarket
for £5!
Visiting local vineyards is
not
hard and, of course, the last Sunday in May is ‘Cantine Aperte’, when
virtually
every vineyard in Italy opens is cellars for you to go and have a
“gusto”
or 2... or 3...
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Restaurants
I have absolutely no doubt that you will find
your
own favourites and nice places to eat at, however, until you find
those,
here is a selection of restaurants where I eat, and have found to have
both a good table and good value for what you get and what you pay—all
wholly acceptable
if not excellent.
I have tried to produce a list that suits all
budgets and all types.
The prices I show are in respect of a full
meal
with aperitifs (if applicable), wine(usually house), and a digestivo,
per
head; almost all restaurants will do just 'a course' but you need to
understand
that there is usually/often/invariably a cover charge which ranges from
about € 1 to maybe € 3 per head, so a "short" meal may seem expensive.
However
lots of local restaurants do a "Menu Turistico" (usually promoted
outside),
which is usually two courses including wine but NOT coffee, at a basic
price
of around € 8 and often is very good value.
Please Note: tipping in Italy at restaurants
is
neither required nor encouraged, and is often offensive. Waiters here
are
properly paid - if not the owner of the place - proud of their job and
do
not view themselves as in need of "your charity" or your 'acclamation'
monetarily; you may not see the giving of a tip that way but they do!
[N.B. Not one of these 32 places know I've put
them
in here...... BUT they all know me (I do not ask for, nor do I want,
commission...I want you to enjoy) and they like to know 'someone' has
said theirs is 'a good
place' - so… tell 'em you came via me! - also, if it ain't as great as
I
say, your telling them I recommended them means I can go back "and kill
'em"!
]
Within 5 miles of Bagni di Lucca:
Albergo Corona - Ponte di Serraglio: Pleasant
riverside
restaurant run by Roberto Marino Merlo, a pleasant young man, offers a
full
A la Carte menu. (closed Mondays) ………€ 30
Da Michele - Tereglio: Rustic
restaurant
up in the hills with rustic food - largely their production (the wine
takes
two gulps to get used to!), run by the family - Bocce and Ping-pong on
site...(closed Wednesdays) ……………. € 18
La Cantina - Ghivizzano: Nice
Hacienda-style
restaurant, offers both Menu Turistico (lunchtime) and A la Carte - and
Pizza
at night - has a (small) play area for kiddies (Closed Mondays) …………….€
30
La Locanda Antico - Borgo a Mozzano:
Small
pleasant little restaurant in the centre of Borgo - a bit
'rustico'
- A la Carte menu……………. € 25
Vinicio - Ponte a Serraglio : Run by
Marco
Vinicio - often has tables along the river in Summer - Al a Carte menu
-
and Pizza (probably the best pizza locally) - (Closed Mondays) ……€ 20
5 to 10 miles from Bagni di Lucca:
Sagittario - Montefegatesi:
Anglo-American
host - in the center of the village - rustic A la Carte menu……………. € 20
L'Arcile - Coreglia Antelminelli :
Next to
the church with a nice balcony - A la Carte menu .- except on Sundays
when you get what you get! ……………. € 20
La Mora - Sesto
Moriano:
Generally regarded as one of the best restaurants in the Provincia di
Lucca
- Sauro keeps an excellent table and wine list......the fixed Menu
Toscano
is 16 odd courses of Tuscan Tastes. ……………. € 55
Antico Locanda di Sesto - Sesto Moriano: Nice
"Trattoria-style"
restaurant all the bits on the ceiling - full A la Carte menu ……………. €
40
Erasmo's - Ponte a Moriano: Possibly
the
oldest restaurant in the world - nice garden eating during summer - A
la
Carte menu…………….€ 28
La Rondina - Fabriche di Vallico:
Centre
of the village - typically nice Tuscan village restaurant that we all
like!
…………….€ 25
"Antonella's" - Petrognano: Way up in
the
Colline Lucchese - fun place - food not bad too! - different is a good
word...? ……………. € 28
Trattoria da Eremo - Gallicano: In the
precincts of the Eremo di Calomini - quite reasonable - serves a good
trout…………….€ 23
Lucca:
La Buca di San Antonio - near Piazza San
Michele:
With La Mora possibly one of THE restaurants in the Province - full A
la
Carte menu……………€ 55
Trattoria da Olivo - near Via Fillungo:
Nice
Fish-oriented restaurant ...but does other things - super awning -
Antonella
will look after you (Closed Wednesdays). …………….€ 30
Leo's - near Piazza Misericordia: Bistro style
busy
busy place - great value....little bit thrown at you...but fun! …………….
€
20
Giglio - near Piazza Napoleone: Opposite the
theatre,
old world "Regency" style - full A la Carte menu. ……………. €
33
East of Lucca:
La Nina - Monte Carlo: Glorious in Summer,
under
the arbour eating well - not bad other times! Inside - full A la Carte
menu
- the prosciutto trolley's good! …………….€ 40
Cecco's - Pescia: In the main "oval"
square
- quite big open plan restaurant - full A la Carte menu - visit the
flowers
too..…………….. € 35
South of Lucca:
La Principessa - Massa Pisana: Super
Villa
- once the seat of the Duca di Lucca - "Relais-Chateaux" Hotel -
jolly
nice! - full A la Carte menu. ……………..€ 50
Cecco's - near Massa Pisana:
Villa-style
restaurant - garden in the Summer - great wine list - full A la Carte
menu.
…………….€ 43
West of Lucca:
Villa Bongi - Ponte San Pietro (takes
some
finding but signposted): Up in the hills looking down over the Lucca
plain
- full A la Carte menu. ……………..€ 30
Solferino - San Macario di Pietro: Out
past
Santa Anna and over the San Pietro bridge - Queen Mum ate here! …………….€
40
Further Afield:
Pisa:
Antico Teatro - Piazza Dante:
Giovanni's
'little crowded place' - full A la Carte menu - on Sundays does a full
Table
d’hôte "experience ..it goes on and on. ……………. € 33
Altopascio:
La Loggia - Off the Main Street:
Underneath
the Arches Spaghetteria (no main course) - bar-bistro...young crowd -
tiny! Fun! ……………. € 13
Viareggio:
Madeo Mare - Via Coppino: Near the
Marina
at the south end of Town - fish of course…………….€ 40
Forte dei Marmi:
La Barca - Viale Italico: If you wander
round
the town proper you'll find it - and enjoy it - the fish can be
terribly
good! …………….€ 38
Montopoli:
4 Gigli - Town Centre: Full A la
Carte
Menu - Trattoria-style…………….€ 38
Certaldo:
Osteria
del Vicario - Certaldo Alto: Superb view from the terrace in
the Summer
across the valley - family restaurant - A la Carte menu. …………….€ 30
Finally, just a couple of ideas in places you are
bound to go:-
Siena:
Il Campo - In the Campo(where else?) -
So
you get Siena in Spades - A la Carte - stylish and probably over-priced
but
then it is where it is and...so...but the food's good…………….Lit € 45
Florence:
Villa San Michele - Fiesole: Perhaps
the
most beautiful view in the world - worth every penny you pay for a
superb
meal - the real way to see Florence - Incomparable! …………€ 100
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