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For sight-seeing and suggested days out please go to “Excursions” where there are 2 major tours and 8 day-trips which should interest you. This page is about those “other” days.

Recreation | Nightlife | Feste | Vino | Restaurants

Bagni di Lucca (8 km away) and its Spas

The very word Bagni of course means that there has to be a Spa here! In fact the waters of this area were certainly regarded as being highly efficacious as far back  as Roman times if not before.

There are numerous Spas across Tuscany, not least those of Montecatini Terme and Chianciano, and many places have (see Excursions 'Pinocchio and Pianos') invested hugely in the building of edifices to water worship. That said the waters of Bagni di Lucca or Bagni de Corsena as it was known up to about 1600, have always been recognised as beuing of superior quality:"the very high therapeutic value of our waters...remains incontestable and they spring forth in a clean, restful atmosphere" (to quote the ubiquitous tortured 'Anglitalian' used all over Italy).
 
The first known brochure promoting Bagni's spa waters is believed to be the one published in 1471 and since then almost the world and his wife has arrived. The list of notables is almost endless - including various Popes and politicians, as well as Shelley, the Brownings and Dumas and indeed includes some, such as Falloppio the anatomist, who might actually have known something about their chemical properties! 

Bagni Tub
 
 


In the 19th century especially, Bagni was an important 'watering hole' on the Grand Tour boasting the workld's first Casino(where Roulette was invented), an Anglican church and an English cemetery(where President Calvin Coolidge's sister is buried!).

TODAY BAGNI OFFERS THE VISITOR THE WHOLE RANGE OF CURATIVE AND PREVENTITIVE TREATMENTS AS WELL AS MUD AND MASSAGE!

One of our guests writes:

"Can one ever be TOO relaxed?!" Three hours of pampering at Terme Bagni Di Lucca had myself, and a friend, pondering that question. We had just indulged in a visit to the spa, where we absolutely adored our Fango (mud) wraps, mineral baths, massages, and facials... we were told beforehand that Bagni di Lucca's waters were "the best in Italy...or so said the Romans" - well, they seem to have known their stuff. 

We walked into the spa's elegant surroundings as weary travellers, complaining of muscle aches and stiffness. After the technicians worked their magic, we walked out into the sunshine, feeling as though we were carefree, soft-skinned angels, floating on clouds! 

I must admit I felt a little apprehension prior to my visit, because the only Italian I've mastered, is the word "Ciao." That was not a problem, I quickly discovered, because the spa technicians are excellent communicators, and led us through the entire beautification process with tremendous ease. They took great care in tending to our comfort, and secured our personal articles in lockers, in each room where services were performed. 

Thermal spas are my passion, and I have visited many famous facilities throughout the United States, and other countries. Terme Bagni Di Lucca, with its sulphate-bicarbonate-calcium enriched waters, surpasses all of them in historic background, quality of services, and value. 

My friend and I selected the spa's Trattamento "Jean Varraud," which is the basic day package.. .when we booked the day before I recall telling the receptionist that essentially what I wanted was to be 'a NEW woman.' I was not to be disappointed! 

It cost - including a facial (an optional extra) - each of us 91 Euros. The exact same services would have run $300, we agreed, in the United States. This means that we had enjoyed three hours in paradise, for less than a third of the "normal" cost! 

Our visit to the spa at Terme Bagni Di Lucca was a delightful detour in our journey through Tuscany, and one we would recommend to anyone who appreciates the ultimate in spa indulgence! 

Amy Wilson, New Albany, Indiana, June 2002.

“Sportin’ Life”

Swimming and the Beaches

At the Mulino, sitting as we do right on the side of the Torrente Fegana, we have the opportunity to dam the river every June which provides a crystal clean “swimming hole” which many of our guests have enjoyed over the last few years – especially their children.

Bagni di Lucca itself has the most superb Thermal Piscine, which costs the princely sum of  € 4 for adults for a day – children half-price. It has a little bar where you can get snacks.
We are just about an hour by car from the Tuscan Riviera, which of course has “everything” that you would expect from a beach-style place. 

Most swimming on the Med is ‘Bagno-style’ which means serviced beach areas – which given the amenities they provide are fair value – they charge around € 25 for a family of four for a day and that includes deck chairs, umbrellas, sunbeds and changing facilities with shower... and of course, a loo; some have little bars where they serve a snack lunch.. 

We recommend  your going to Forte dei Marmi which is just north of Viareggio itself, and where we have a “relationship’ with one of the nicer Bagnos – we include one day free, if you stay a week, as part of the deal.

the Beach
Fishing
In Italy, if you buy a 3 month fishing license (about € 10 from the Vigili Urbani)) you may fish every river there is! At the Mulino our river has brown trout.

In addition there are fishing clubs – open to Visitors at both Barga and Diecimo (12 kms) where the sport is more varied.

Should you wish for someone to show you the ropes that can be organized.

Cycling/Mountain-biking

Bicycles and mountain bikes can be hired by the hour day or week in Lucca – one of the things many guests have enjoyed is to hire a tandem and pedal the walls. There are many trails for the “vertical” enthusiast... whilst of course the major professional “Tours” most particularly the Giro d’Italia are followed avidly by all Italians...not least here for the Great Cippolini is a Toscano. The Giro is in May.

Mountain Biking
Walking/Rambling/Trekking /Rock-climbing

We are extremely well served for walking enthusiasts. The Orrido di Botri, Monte Rondinaio, the Garfagnana itself, San Pellegrino and the Pania di Corfino are just a few rambling ”centres” on our doorstep. ‘Rifiugi’ (little huts/refuges) are available stopping or overnight camping. Excellent maps are available.

Guide services are available at:

  • Campeggio Pian’d’a Mora – (0039 – 0583 74426 or 0039 0583 86525) 
  • Coop. Terra Uomini Ambiente – Castelnuovo Garfagnana (0039 0583 644344)
  • And Information Offices at Castelnuovo, Barga and Bagni di Lucca (0039 0583 644242)
Rambling in the Orrido di Botri
Horseback Riding

If you wish over the weekend to hack across the Fegana valley, horse-riding is available in the forests above the mill.  If you are interested in a more involved excursion on horseback, please take a look at our "Sui Dorsi dei Cavalli" excursion!
 

Tennis

Bagni di Lucca has an excellent if small Tennis Club with four first class hard courts ...and a bar! Rackets can be hired but you must have proper shoes of course

Volleyball

Volleyball is almost the Village game in Italy so there are many courts all over.

Basketball

The Palazzo del Sport at Lucca has a top quality basketball court

Golf

There are three eighteen-hole courses within an hour’s journey from the Mill: at Tirrenia on the Coast near Pisa;  at Pietrosanta just north of Viareggio; and at Montecatini.
 
Skiing

One of Italy’s principal skiing resorts, Abetone, is just 40 curvy kilometres from the Mill – so it probably will take you an hour to get there.

Abetone
“Fast Little Red Motor Cars”

The Ferrari Museum at Maranello is over the hill from Abetone – a glorious 2 hour plus drive through spectacular scenery... the museum is pretty good too!

Spectator Sports

Italy’s main spectator sport is of course soccer........invariably Sunday afternoon. Lucca’s stadium is on the east of the City...though one has to say they haven’t been playing too well in the last 3 or 4 years!  There are horse-race and, most particularly, trotting courses at Pisa and Montecatini.



For “Night Birds”

Discotheques/Bars

We have two large Discos within 5 miles of the Mill - Jo-Jo’s and Skylab, both of which have hot-spots for the younger set and a dance floor usually with a full blown orchestra for the more sedate of us! Entrance costs about € 8 and drinks are at normal bar prices. We have also both in Lucca and around here a goodly number of “fun” bars.

Theatres

At Bagni, there is the Teatro Accademico which often has plays or musical evenings in the summer; whilst in Lucca, there is the famous Teatro Giglio where Pavarotti amongst others, had his Theatrical debut.

Also visit Lucca On Stage for more information about theatrical and cultural events in and around Lucca.
 
Opera/Jazz/Concerts

The principal Opera festival is, of course, the Puccini Festival at Torre del Lago – about 45 mins away – which runs from late July to mid August (open air) and invariably features 3 of the great man’s works... and is totally super! 

Be sure to buy at least second-best tickets (and take binoculars or opera glasses!) - tickets at this level cost about € 55

Smaller Opera Festivals are held at Barga.
 

There are jazz festivals at Pistoia, Barga, Lucca and Viareggio. For those more pop-oriented, the Lucca music Festival always has top liners featured such as Elton John, Joe Cocker, Ray Charles, Natalie Cole, Lionel Ritchie and Bob Dylan.

Throughout the summer there are often concerts both in the piazzi in Lucca and Barga and elsewhere , most especially at some of our Villas.


Feste

There are probably over 1000 separate festas in Tuscany in any given year – including the Palio at Siena, the Giocco del Ponte and the Luminara at Pisa, the Santa Croce in Lucca , the Giostra di Saraceno in Arezzo and the Calcio Storico at Florence (the B IG ones) - the best plan  is therefore to check  Dan’s Feste Guide.

The Palio, Siena

Calcio, Florence

Carnival, Viareggio



Vino
 
If you are coming by car – do yourself a mega-favour and save the Petrol cost...easy-peezy!– buy a demigiana (54 litres – 72 bottles) and get it filled with some excellent Toscano. When you get home and have a real “bottle(ing) party” you’ll have some first class drinking wine for under  £1 a bottle.........better than you buy at the local supermarket for £5! 

 Visiting local vineyards is not hard and, of course, the last Sunday in May is ‘Cantine Aperte’, when virtually every vineyard in Italy opens is cellars for you to go and have a “gusto” or 2... or 3...

Grape Harvest


Restaurants

I have absolutely no doubt that you will find your own favourites and nice places to eat at, however, until you find those, here is a selection of restaurants where I eat, and have found to have both a good table and good value for what you get and what you pay—all wholly acceptable if not excellent.

I have tried to produce a list that suits all budgets and all types. 

The prices I show are in respect of a full meal with aperitifs (if applicable), wine(usually house), and a digestivo, per head; almost all restaurants will do just 'a course' but you need to understand that there is usually/often/invariably a cover charge which ranges from about € 1 to maybe € 3 per head, so a "short" meal may seem expensive. However lots of local restaurants do a "Menu Turistico" (usually promoted outside), which is usually two courses including wine but NOT coffee, at a basic price of around € 8 and often is very good value.

Please Note: tipping in Italy at restaurants is neither required nor encouraged, and is often offensive. Waiters here are properly paid - if not the owner of the place - proud of their job and do not view themselves as in need of "your charity" or your 'acclamation' monetarily; you may not see the giving of a tip that way but they do!

[N.B. Not one of these 32 places know I've put them in here...... BUT they all know me (I do not ask for, nor do I want, commission...I want you to enjoy) and they like to know 'someone' has said theirs is 'a good place' - so… tell 'em you came via me! - also, if it ain't as great as I say, your telling them I recommended them means I can go back "and kill 'em"! ]



Within 5 miles of Bagni di Lucca:

Albergo Corona - Ponte di Serraglio: Pleasant riverside restaurant run by Roberto Marino Merlo, a pleasant young man, offers a full A la Carte menu. (closed Mondays) ………€ 30

Da Michele - Tereglio: Rustic restaurant up in the hills with rustic food - largely their production (the wine takes two gulps to get used to!), run by the family - Bocce and Ping-pong on site...(closed Wednesdays) ……………. € 18

La Cantina - Ghivizzano: Nice Hacienda-style restaurant, offers both Menu Turistico (lunchtime) and A la Carte - and Pizza at night - has a (small) play area for kiddies (Closed Mondays) …………….€ 30

La Locanda Antico - Borgo a Mozzano: Small pleasant little restaurant in the centre of Borgo - a bit 'rustico'  - A la Carte menu……………. € 25

Vinicio - Ponte a Serraglio : Run by Marco Vinicio - often has tables along the river in Summer - Al a Carte menu - and Pizza (probably the best pizza locally) - (Closed Mondays) ……€ 20



5 to 10 miles from Bagni di Lucca:

Sagittario - Montefegatesi: Anglo-American host - in the center of the village - rustic A la Carte menu……………. € 20

L'Arcile - Coreglia Antelminelli : Next to the church with a nice balcony - A la Carte menu .- except on Sundays when you get what you get! ……………. € 20

La Mora - Sesto Moriano: Generally regarded as one of the best restaurants in the Provincia di Lucca - Sauro keeps an excellent table and wine list......the fixed Menu Toscano is 16 odd courses of Tuscan Tastes. …………….  € 55

Antico Locanda di Sesto - Sesto Moriano: Nice "Trattoria-style" restaurant all the bits on the ceiling - full A la Carte menu ……………. € 40

Erasmo's - Ponte a Moriano: Possibly the oldest restaurant in the world - nice garden eating during summer - A la Carte menu…………….€ 28

La Rondina - Fabriche di Vallico: Centre of the village - typically nice Tuscan village restaurant that we all like! …………….€ 25

"Antonella's" - Petrognano: Way up in the Colline Lucchese - fun place - food not bad too! - different is a good word...? ……………. € 28

Trattoria da Eremo - Gallicano: In the precincts of the Eremo di Calomini - quite reasonable - serves a good trout…………….€ 23



Lucca:

La Buca di San Antonio - near Piazza San Michele: With La Mora possibly one of THE restaurants in the Province - full A la Carte menu……………€ 55

Trattoria da Olivo - near Via Fillungo: Nice Fish-oriented restaurant ...but does other things - super awning - Antonella will look after you (Closed Wednesdays). …………….€ 30 

Leo's - near Piazza Misericordia: Bistro style busy busy place - great value....little bit thrown at you...but fun! ……………. € 20

Giglio - near Piazza Napoleone: Opposite the theatre, old world "Regency" style - full A la Carte menu. …………….  € 33 



East of Lucca:

La Nina - Monte Carlo: Glorious in Summer, under the arbour eating well - not bad other times! Inside - full A la Carte menu - the prosciutto trolley's good! …………….€ 40

Cecco's - Pescia: In the main "oval" square - quite big open plan restaurant - full A la Carte menu - visit the flowers too..…………….. € 35



South of Lucca:

La Principessa - Massa Pisana: Super Villa - once the seat of the Duca di Lucca - "Relais-Chateaux" Hotel  - jolly nice!  - full A la Carte  menu. ……………..€ 50

Cecco's - near Massa Pisana: Villa-style restaurant - garden in the Summer - great wine list - full A la Carte menu. …………….€ 43



West of Lucca:

Villa Bongi - Ponte San Pietro (takes some finding but signposted): Up in the hills looking down over the Lucca plain - full A la Carte menu. ……………..€ 30

Solferino - San Macario di Pietro: Out past Santa Anna and over the San Pietro bridge - Queen Mum ate here! …………….€ 40



Further Afield:

Pisa:

Antico Teatro - Piazza Dante: Giovanni's 'little crowded place' - full A la Carte menu - on Sundays does a full Table d’hôte "experience ..it goes on and on. ……………. € 33



Altopascio:

La Loggia - Off the Main Street: Underneath the Arches Spaghetteria (no main course) - bar-bistro...young crowd - tiny! Fun! ……………. € 13



Viareggio:

Madeo Mare - Via Coppino: Near the Marina at the south end of Town - fish of course…………….€ 40



Forte dei Marmi:

La Barca - Viale Italico: If you wander round the town proper you'll find it - and enjoy it - the fish can be terribly good! …………….€ 38



Montopoli:

4 Gigli - Town Centre:  Full A la Carte Menu - Trattoria-style…………….€ 38



Certaldo:

Osteria del Vicario - Certaldo Alto: Superb view from the terrace in the Summer across the valley - family restaurant - A la Carte menu. …………….€ 30



Finally, just a couple of ideas in places you are bound to go:-

Siena:

Il Campo - In the Campo(where else?) - So you get Siena in Spades - A la Carte - stylish and probably over-priced but then it is where it is and...so...but the food's good…………….Lit € 45



Florence:

Villa San Michele - Fiesole: Perhaps the most beautiful view in the world - worth every penny you pay for a superb meal - the real way to see Florence - Incomparable! …………€ 100
 

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