In this photo, I've put a pen in the bladeholder. It has a smaller diameter than the
bladeholder, and when it's tightened into the clamp...the position of the pen
is placed at the BACK of the clamp where it's being pressed by the screw.
In the next photo, I've put a pen in the pen-tool holder instead.The aluminum
shaft of this cylinder is the same diameter as the bladeholder itself, but the
pen I've inserted still has to be tightened slightly to one side because it's
smaller than the pen holder. (See the additional screw to fasten the pen?) This
won't draw in exactly the same place as the blade in the bladeholder, but it
WILL be more accurate than the pen clamped in the jaw without a means of aligning
it more closely to where the blade will be travelling.
I have not moved the origin in these pictures...I've only replaced the pens and
hit CUT again. The second pen in the red holder is almost 2mm offset from the
first black pen which I used to draw the first set of boxes. That's a BIG difference
considering that it's merely the result of a difference in diameter and nothing else.

Next, I put the bladeholder in the jaw. I'm using a 60-degree blue-cap blade, which has
a slight angle. Rather than cut the squares, I used the pounce feature to show where
it would cut. You can see that the scored line is CLOSE to the 2nd pen mark, but
not exact.


How to get around this?
When you put a pen in the holder...press down on the clamp to drop a small pen-mark on
your paper. This will become your FIRST origin and where the cutter begins to make
its first path. THEN...when you replace the pen with the bladeholder...you press down on
the carriage again to determine where the blade punctures the paper. It's not going to
be the same, but you can move the carriage to position the blade in the same place as
the pen mark you made earlier. Once you've aligned the blade, you should be able to get both
the pen line and the blade line to match. You'll end up with a few holes in the
paper until you're able to eyeball the position accurately, but this works. My
overcut is 25 and trailing blade is 5 in this example. If your settings vary
significantly from this and you're getting irregularly shaped objects instead of
evenly measured shapes and your mat is NOT skewing...maybe try these settings and
see how it behaves.