Silk Purses from Sow's Ears

This basic shirt can be used for both male and female characters, and it is a good idea to have several of them as part of your stock wardrobe collection. Add a laced waist cinch and a homespun skirt with apron and you have a classic wench look. Excellent instructions for making this type of shirt and/or a longer version for a ladie's chemise, can be found at: http://ares.redsword.com/dduperault/shirt.htm but if you don't have the fabric or the time, but do have some old drawstring cotton or rayon "broomstick" pleated skirts around, you can whip up a shirt in half an hour. I keep my eyes open at Value Village, garage sales, etc. for solid coloured skirts.

Instructions:

1. Place the skirt over the actor's head with the drawstrings at centre front, and have your model hold his arms straight out to the sides.
2. Place a safety pin in a point a good 6 or 7 inches below the armpit on each side. (If you have the time and want to use french seams, leave another inch).
3. Remove the skirt from your model and lay it out flat on the table or floor so that it is a half circle with the pins lined up and cut from the hemline to your pin mark on either side.
4. Turn the garment and sew up each sleeve and down each side. Refer to my crude diagram below if these instructions aren't clear.

   

5. Put the shirt back on the model and belt it. If you have time you can use a piece of elastic and after puffing for drape, place a row of pins around the bottom of your elastic for a guide to put a casing. I recommend using elastic, especially with kids, as the drape stays put this way. If you are in a hurry, though, just belt it or have the actor tuck it into the breeches or skirt.
6. Tie a piece of elastic around the wrist of each sleeve, puff to the desired drape, (have the actor lift his arm to make sure the underarm is long enough and either mark for casing and then cut and hem if you want a ruff over the hand, or mark where the elastic is and cut leaving enough to turn for a self facing.
7. Make your casings and hems, thread with elastic, and there you go. You can adjust the neck with the drawstrings - pull them to a smaller neck for a man's shirt, or wenchify the look by loosening for an off-shoulder drape.

If you are sewing for the stage, machine everything you can, including hems. The stitching won't be visible from the audience and the result will be more durable. For costumes, I always use a medium-long stitch length to make future alterations easier.

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