There are three evolutions of the 4-speed offered by Jorgen:

Evo I:

•      cast aluminum housing prepared for special gearset with primiary housing in pressure cast aluminium
•      final gear 9:35 gearset 18:33 primiary gear 32:25.
•      pinion bearing housing strenghthened casted aluminium with Timken bearings and with precision ground hardened steel sleeve, new nut.
•      steel joint, JM 5 sleeve, gearselector axle standard, but one special type which is only mounted in few original boxes, steel selector finger steel
•      primary gears 32:25 with used chains in good shape
•      rear steel cover plate wiith special screws.
•      new gaskets and small mounting parts
•      new intermediate gear needle bearings, pinion needle bearing and differential Timken bearings, used axle in good shape for the intermediate gear
•      original inner drivers per model 1986 and up to 1993

Evo II, per Evo I but also including:
 

•      cast aluminium housing ****strongest model prepared for special gearset whith ****primary housing in cast aluminium
•      steel joint, JM 5 sleeve, ****gearselector axle special competition, selector finger steel - in the gears selector unit and this gives better feeling than Evo I and is more ready for the special gearset
•      primary gears 32:25 with ****new SAAB chains
•      new intermediate gear needle bearings, pinion needle bearing and differential Timken bearings, ****new axle for the intermediate gear
•      inner drivers model 1986 and up to 1993 ****steel strengthened for higher torque

Evo III, per Evo II but also including:
 

•      **** steel selector fingers
•      ****special selector fork on 3:4th gear - this is in the gears selector unit and this is the BEST; totally prepared for the special gearset
•      primary gears 32:25 with new ****special Renhold chains

My box is an Evo II and should be well suited to my aim of about 300hp and similar or more in torque.

The items marked with astericks show the upgraded items on each Evolution.  The specs were given to me by Gary Moore, who received them from Jorgen - and if it sounds a bit funny, it's because I tried to clean up Jorgen's English spelling and grammar a bit.  And also I don't know transmissions that well, so hopefully it makes a bit of sense. I changed a few words here and there.

Anywhere you see "cast" or "casted", the original in Swedish was "kokill cast" and I'm not entirely sure what this means.  I believe it is 'molded' though, but not certain. Basically though, each tranny case is from a '78 99T, from what I understand, and Jorgen says these are the toughest. "Special gearset" is something which Jorgen has in the works, I understand these are straightcut gears, possibly with no synchros.  The box as is DOES have synchromesh though.

No point in showing pictures of the tranny - it looks like a Saab tranny because it is a Saab tranny.  However, some pictures of the detail parts.  The diff cover is solid steel.  The inner drivers are reinforced with steel sleeves, these are gorgeous.  The stock, rubber shift linkage is replaced with a U-joint.  Combined with Jorgen's most excellent short shifter, the tranny shifts like a rifle bolt.  The car feels completely new.

Now the only thing missing is an LSD!  Fingers crossed will have this sometime next winter.  Damien Shulock will soon be running with a Phantom Grip unit in his car, SAABOTG.  They used an existing size, but apparently had to shave down the spider gears to get it to fit.  Hopefully Damien will be reporting good results soon!

Gregg Cronn forwarded me pictures of his tranny oil cooling system that he installed on his very lovely 99 with 16v Turbo engine swap.  Apparently it is a MUST for rally cars, and could do nothing but help c900s and 99s that are driven hard.  Gregg said he was guided in this mod by Scanwest Auto in Seattle, who do this on their rally cars.  I believe Saabworks' James Fox has a similar setup, but with an actual oil pump; Gregg used an old Bosch fuel pump.  Scanwest runs the system through a retrofitted automatic transmission cooler located under the passenger headlight.

Here is a listing of the parts he used, in his words:

1/8 npt male to 6an male 90 degree fitting to 6an female on hose in lower diff cover (make this as low as possible)> hose from 6an female to Earls inline screen filter 6an in and out ( I used a 12an in and out filter because I had it laying around)> 6an female to filter and 6an female out of filter to hose adapter to run bigger hose, 6 an female to 1/2 hose fitting (Important!  6an 3/8 hose will not fit the inlet of the pump. You need to step up the hose size to 1/2 for the pump.  Learned this the hard way!) > Hose into pump with a hose clamp.

Fuel Pump > 12 mm X 1.5 mm male to 6an  male fitting > 6an female 90 degree elbow fitting to 6 an press fit hose (3/8) > hose to oil cooler fitting 6 an female > 6an male to 16 mm X 1.5 adapter fitting into oil cooler> outlet of oil cooler is same fitting as inlet> 6an female to hose>  to 6an female at bracket for 1/8 npt pressure gauge> bracket is inlet/outlet 6an male > outlet is 6an female to hose> hose to upper diff housing> 6an female to 90 degree 6an male/1/8 npt male at diff housing.
(Tap used for all three holes in diff was 1/8 npt.)
 

I'll likely do this on my 99 rally project, and later when the time and money are found, on my SPG. Some of my comments:

• I'd probably use higher quality, aluminum fittings, and stainless steel lines - it's overkill for the pressures it sees, but they look better and I'm a snob with whatever's underneath the hood of my car; however, there could be heat concerns with the hoses running right by the downpipe too
• off the diff cover, I'd use a smoother bending 90 degree fitting, like the one Gregg used on the filter there, to optimize the oil flow

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