Getting it started and keeping it running-
When I found my mighty Bolens was a prize to behold. Three flat tires, stored under cedar tree; it had a very quaint greenish tinge to it from the moss that had started to grow.
The first thing I did when I got my Bolens home was to douse the whole tractor, including the motor in a degreaser like WD40. While it was soaking, I went to the local outdoor power products shop and ordered a manual for the Tecumseh, a carb kit, air filter and a spark plug. My machine came with the Tecumseh overhead valve, electronic ignition motor with Walbro carb.
I also went to an auto parts place and bought a kit of various sized cotter pins.
Fuel -
I started by disassembling the fuel system.
Tank came off and was thoroughly flushed.
The fuel tank intake screen was cleaned.
The carb rebuilt.
I also added an inline fuel filter.Carburetor -
Float Adjustment-
Or, the Walbro Whaos. Great carb if you can get it to stop leaking! And adjust the high speed jet!
The Tecumseh Walbro specification is 9/64 inch. · Best way to do this is get a 9/64 drill
With float and needle assembled…
Hold carb upside down (float up) and adjust the tang on the float until the drill bit just fits between the carb body and the float directly opposite the float needle.
In most cases, levelling the float will do OK, but the high-speed adjustment will tend to be very finicky at times.
I had problems getting the bowl to seal properly and was getting leaks. The gasket is a very narrow item that has to sit just right to seal.
I would take the thing apart to try and get it right. By now, the neoprene gasket had swelled and wouldn't fit in the grove. I went back to the local parts guy and bought two more of the bowl gaskets.
I could now change out the gasket until I had it seated properly. It took four tries to get it right.
- A trick the shops told me was to put the gasket in the sun. It would recover to it's original size and could be reused.
- Hint, if the float is set to high, the thing will choke in it's own gas. A good indication of this is gas pouring out the carb throat!
Electrics -
Charge and check the battery, if suspect, get new one. It's worth it.
Once the beast was running, I started by going through the manual and checking things like voltages generated and resistance of the coil and alternator. The recommended resistance of the coil was about 10 ohms below what it should have been. Didn't think much of it until, in the cold of a damp winter, the beast did not start, period. And the snow was piling up!
Metered the coil, it was now showing a complete open. I had been putting off ordering the sucker because of the 150.00 price tag. I changed out the coil and now the thing starts before the motor has a chance to make one full revolution!
The Alternator is only putting out half what it is spec'ed for. I am going to play with a regulator/rectifier assembly shortly and may be able to compensate. Otherwise, it's a trip back to the shop for another +100.00 part!
Lubrication -
Drain all fluids.
There is a plug on the back of the transaxle, remove it leave it for awhile. It's got, or supposed to have 90wt gear oil in it.
Secondly, do the same for the motor. Get under the tractor up by the motor. There is drain plug. Undo it and let contents drain for as long as you can.
While the spark plug is out, put a couple drops of 30wt motor oil down the plug hole and without the plug in, turn the motor over a few times. This will get things slippery again, especially if it has been sitting.
Don't forget to put the plugs back in and fill the crankcase and gear box with the respective lubricants. You will find more info elsewhere on the site in the manual section.
This site created Feb. 01,
Updated .