Rick Hudson - travel writer and author

Published in
the Globe & Mail
July 13, 2002

As the whale swims

A new way to traverse Vancouver Island's West Coast Trail - by sea - gives kayakers access to the famous sandy beaches, rocky headlands and old-growth rainforest, without a 10-day slog through the woods

The trouble with Vancouver Island's West Coast Trail is not that it's being trampled by the thousands of hikers who beat its path from April to September, nor that it takes much longer to complete than most people want to spend on a wilderness adventure (typically 7 to 10 days). No, the real problem is that most backpackers who tackle the famous trail, which stretches 77 kilometres from Port Renfrew to Bamfield, spend much of their time thrashing through wet salal shrubs and salmonberries, wading in and out of mud holes, shivering in west coast summer fog, or skidding off logs and ladders, while seeing little of the beautiful beaches and rugged coastline for which the region is so famous.

Paddling past Tsusiat Falls
Photo: Todd Lawson

Luckily, for the wilderness lover with more of a penchant for luxury than labour, there is now a better way to enjoy the highlights of this spectacular route, with its rocky capes, rolling Pacific swells and moss-draped forest edges, without the blisters and blunders of all that shrubbery-shredding.

This year for the first time Bamfield's Tyee Lodge is offering a different approach to an old route - paddling the West Coast Trail. It can take a week to trudge in and out of the ankle-deep beach sand and bays, but as the grey whale swims, the trail is just two days by sea kayak.

The Tyee Lodge sits atop a headland at the mouth of Bamfield Inlet. From the fragrant warmth of its hot tub, perched on the cliff's edge, a 270-degree panorama affords an astonishing view: Below, ocean-going ships throb down the Alberni Channel, bound for foreign ports, while beyond sit the famous Broken Islands, tree-covered archipelagos sprinkled in a tranquil sea. Could there be a better launching point for a paddle along the rugged coastline?

A whale's-eye view
After a continental breakfast we descend to the lodge docks, where skipper John Johnston loads an eight-metre launch with kayaks and gear. Casting off the lines, we leave the luxury behind and head for the wilderness. There are many advantages to choosing the sea over the land, the most obvious being that we can reach any segment of the trail in less than two hours. Today, our destination is Hole-in-the-Wall near Tsusiat Falls, less than an hour's boat ride away. As we round the headland below Cape Beale Lighthouse, the deeply indented sand of Pachena Bay spins past. This is the northern end of the trail. As we travel, Mr. Johnston points out bird colonies and the remains of old shipwrecks, and tells tales about the lighthouses. He is as excited as we are when a whale sounds close by.

At the next headland, a group of sea lions regards the launch with a cautious eye, ready to plunge off their rocky ledges should we draw too close. Further down the coast, steep cliffs and narrow beaches are occasionally peopled by hikers. In 45 minutes we've covered what amounts to several days on the hiking trail.

Everything written about hiking the West Coast Trail warns that it is not for neophytes. Venturing onto it without considerable wilderness experience is dangerous to both the individual and to those with him. The same is also true of paddling the coast. The swells are large. The wind can alter surface conditions in short order. Offshore breakers require constant vigilance. A kayaker's view of the shoreline instills an appreciation for why early sailors feared these ragged capes and rocky beaches. The trail was originally constructed to facilitate the rescue of shipwrecked mariners.

Even on calm days, 10,000 kilometres of open ocean produce a substantial swell. Mr. Johnston stops the mothership half a kilometre offshore, and one by one we slip into our kayaks and slide clear. Paddling past an offshore reef, I watch the sea surface drop, exposing barnacle- and mussell-encrusted basalt. Water gushes down exposed rock, revealing orange and purple starfish, sea lettuce and bull kelp. When the trough passes, the marine diorama vanishes as quickly as it was exposed, and nothing is left but surface eddies to hint at what lies beneath.

Paddling in the open ocean is quite different from lake or river canoeing. The sea beneath your craft is alive, vibrant. The swells and waves connect you to the titanic forces that pulse within the ocean. One moment you are on the crest of a swell and can see far down the coastline. The next, you're hemmed in between blue-green slopes of water, with nothing but sky above. Close to shore, the swells crest and curl before thundering onto the land in a welter of foam.

Our paddling guide is Greg Phillips, who combines years of sea kayaking with a Zen approach to the sport and a wry sense of humour. We are one with the ocean. We are part of the cosmos. If we don't watch that surge ahead, we'll be one with the barnacles on that reef.

Not far away, Mr. Johnston is standing by in the launch. There are few places to get ashore without running the surf, but he is well acquainted with the secrets of the coast and can tuck us into a calm bay if need be.

A new direction
Liz Johnston started the Tyee Lodge 18 years ago. Like her husband John, she is an experienced kayaker. The Lodge, however, is best known as an international fishing destination for salmon and halibut. This year, for the first time, they are offering visitors the chance to paddle the West Coast Trail, in the most comfortable fashion possible.

On the lodge patio, the rhododendrons are in full bloom in the late afternoon sun. The chef produces oysters baked in the shell with tabasco, Cinzano and lemon juice. Delicate filo pastry containing chicken, herbs and spices, and a full-bodied Australian shiraz further tempt the palate.

The table d'hote dinner is a gourmet affair, overlooking the gardens and the islands beyond. The conversation among the guests from Alberta, Georgia and Texas wanders from world politics to local stone carvings. Later, asleep in a warm bed, I dream of sea fog, wet sleeping bags and cold porridge. The island's outer coast, which is exposed to westerlies, is beautiful when peaceful, but is not for everyone. Fortunately for sea kayakers shy of the heaving waters, there is a Plan B, and it's as good as the West Coast Trail.

Just minutes from the lodge, the Deer Group is a string of islands with crenellated coastlines, forested hills and calm seas. Whichever way the wind blows, there are lee shores to play in, sea arches to glide under, and surge channels so narrow a kayaker can only squeeze through without paddles. There are deep limestone caves, where the Pacific swells barely penetrate, lifting and lowering the kayaks in a gentle rhythm, as though the entire cave is breathing.

And, moored in the aptly named Robber's Passage, the burned-out hull of the Sea Shepherd Society's Ocean Warrior rusts at anchor, the flags of ships rammed and sunk still visible under the smoke grime on her upper superstructure.

If you go
Island Adventure Tours offer three-day, two-night packages for $799/person, from June through September. Call 1- 866-812-7103. This includes transport from Victoria to Bamfield and back, all meals and accommodation, and use of kayaking equipment. Each group of six has a launch, skipper and kayak guide. The West Coast Trail paddle and the Deer Group make up two of the days, conditional on sea conditions and visitor preferences. The Broken Chain Group, hiking, or fishing are also options. Visitors may wish to extend their stay to include kayak lessons around Bamfield prior to the trip.