Hotel's launch Sunset

This story
appeared in
KANAWA
Canada'a Kayaking
Magazine
Winter 2002


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Victoria's dark secret
Sub-title

Why Rick Hudson put aside his horror of after-dark paddling, and slipped out into the darkening waters of HaroStrait as the water in the west was turning from gold to purple ...

Natural selection favours day paddling
Over the years, I've developed a preference for solid earth under my feet as twilight falls. Call it natural selection, but it's been my experience that paddling in the dark is synonymous with head winds, misread maps, rugged coastlines, skipped meals, and coming in through surf while trying to pick a gap in the silhouette ahead that might signify a river mouth.

Drink to me only ...
Canada's vineyards.

Enough said on the horrors of after-dark paddling. And now the Oak Bay Beach Hotel is actually inviting me to set out at dusk. Crazy man. No kayaker with an IQ higher than his beach sandals would go for something like that.

But wait a minute, there's a hook. It turns out that paddling is the preamble to an evening of star gazing on a remote island off the busy city of Victoria, BC (you know, that place where they have the damn February Flower Count, while the rest of the country is still shovelling the white stuff.) It happens in the soft dark, away from urban lights and noise. So close, you can almost touch the town, and yet as remote as if you were on the Shield, north of 60 (but with not a bug in sight).

Throw in a fresh seafood meal, and suddenly I'm wavering. The old survival instincts are strong, but the promise of seeing Jupiter in conjunction with Mars, or the Plaeides standing, seven-star clear, in a pitch black night sky, is too attractive. I'm in.

An evening's mission with deep space and high cuisine
Joel Bridle is the hotel's large and friendly activities manager. "The Dungeness crabs are excellent right now," he murmurs, with just enough volume that everyone in the lobby turns to see whom he's talking to. It's us; a motley crew of paddlers, stragglers and general lay-abouts, setting off on our evening's mission with deep space and high cuisine. Plus Sandra Barta and David Lee, astronomers both, who will be our eyes for the journey.

Beautiful gardens in the light of day
Oak Bay Beach Hotel.

The hotel's launch carries 8 kayaks with ease, and we slip out into the darkening waters of Haro Strait as the water to the west is turning from gold to purple. "Victoria's in the rainshadow of the Olympic Mountains in Washington, so we get over 2,100 hours of sunshine a year," says Sandra, "and that means we get excellent night sky watching too."

A few minutes later we launch the kayaks, and set off for an island. There's a light evening wind that's running against a flood tide, making for an interesting chop, but Joel is close by with advice. Ahead in the dark there's a fire on the beach.

As we pull up onto the dark shingles, our learned astronomers are already setting up a reflector telescope. It seems that Saturn's rings are visible, the moon is in someone else's house, and everyone should be cautious with matters of the heart today. Who reads the horoscopes anyway?

There's a cauldron of steaming crabs (freshly trapped), and more bottles of Vancouver Island wine than you can shake a paddle at. Hey, does it matter if you didn't even know there were vineyards on Canada's western edge? Here's the proof (about 8%, at a guess), as glasses are raised, toasts proclaimed, and nebulae ogled.

The evening slips away in a bliss of cheerful chat, astronomical observations, good wine, great seafood, and before you know what's happening, Joel is mopping up stragglers and advising us this is the last chance to get back to the hotel without walking on water.

We reluctantly drain the remains of the local vintage, load the kayaks onto the launch cradles, and someone else (thankfully) pushes the boat off and jumps aboard. Nobody's feeling very co-ordinated at this hour. On the return trip, someone sings "Fly me to the moon" very loudly, and very off key.

Joel called the next day to ask for the words.

If you go:
Trips run most months of the year. The Oak Bay Beach Hotel provides the complete package, including kayaks, telescopes, training, guides, astronomers, a pre-kayak dinner and a crab pot. $149 or less. If the weather is overcast, a slide show substitutes for the loss of night sky. Call (250) 598-4556 or 1-800-668-7758 or http://www.oakbaybeachhotel.com/, and ask about "Crescent Moon Kayaking".


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