Georgia on my mind
Kayaking around Lasqueti and Jedediah Island
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Lasqueti (pronounced "luss-kee-tee") is a 30km island in the Strait of Georgia. A ferry leaves from an unmarked spot on Vancouver Island, its schedule is hard to find, the island locals have a reputation for being eccentric, and there's no electricity. Really.
But once out there, Lasqueti Island plus the archipelago to the east (which has Jedediah Island Marine Park at its core) offer spectacular paddling in remote waters. There are empty islets, oyster-rich channels, vibrant seashore life, and mowed fields (more of that later).
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.. an archipelago of islets ..
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Day 1:
Getting to Lasqueti may be the toughest part of the trip. A passenger-only ferry leaves French Creek (near Parksville on Vancouver Island), taking about 50 people, plus kayaks. After an hour's crossing to False Bay, you unload onto a bustling dock, crowded with islanders, beer boxes, dog food and bicycles.
Launch directly from there. Depending on the tide, head north (flood) or south (ebb), using the current to push you a bit. In both directions, is should take about 4-6 hours to Jedediah Island Marine Park. The SW shoreline is rocky and exposed, so beware of strong westerlies. The view across Georgia Strait to Mt Arrowsmith on Vancouver Island is always a treat.
On our last trip, we headed north, turning east around the top into Sabine Channel. Ahead, the forested flanks of Texada Island sweep down, bare of roads or buildings. You're away from it all.
Ahead, the channel narrows into an archipelago of islets, the furthest of which is Jedediah. Thread through the channels, past basalt headlands and secluded beaches. Jedediah's north and south aspects are high bluffs, dropping into deep channels. At low tide, oysters and mussels dry. By contrast, the east and west shores have narrow bays accessing hidden farmland in the centre.
Check the western shore first. A deserted house stands on stilts, overlooking the waters of Long Bay, its windows bare and sad. The shallows are home to a commercial oyster farm. Don't pick.
On the east coast, glide into Home Bay, a narrow channel leading to a sheltered harbour and a sandy beach. Camp on grass, under trees. Across the water is the old homestead, occupied in the 1970s - 1990s. Recently, the whole island was sold to the provincial government as a marine park, for a little over $4 million. The farm buildings still stand, but are closed and shuttered now. Flocks of feral sheep keep the meadows mowed.
Day 2:
Take time to explore the island. A stream trickles from the farmlands, but the area is polluted with sheep dung. Bring your own water.
A track leads across the island west to Long Bay. Climb the headland above the house to get panoramic views north up Sabine Channel and the flank of Texada Island. Later, take the kayaks out to explore the channels and surrounding islands, but watch the tides -- they can pump through the narrows.
The other hazards to avoid are the cruise ships. In summer, they sail up Sabine Channel almost hourly, slipping between Jedidiah and Texada Islands. At night, their brilliantly lit superstructures resemble small cities gliding by. Sometimes you can even catch the base beat from the night club band!
Day 3:
Homeward bound, about 4-6 hours. The ideal return trip is to complete the circumnavigation of Lasqueti Island, but sometimes the tide or wind won't permit this. Use caution when deciding.
Let's continue our clockwise loop, heading south across Bull Passage. Squitty Bay is a marine park with a jetty and road (no houses). It makes a safe shelter to wait out those southerly winds that sometimes sweep up Georgia Strait.
Turning the SE headland at Young Point, Mt Arrowsmith swings back into view around the basalt cliffs. The south side of Lasqueti is rugged, but Jenkins Island, about half way to False Bay (and the ferry) offers protection, before the last paddle back to where you started. Watch for otter, seals, sea lions, white-sided porpoise and eagles.
If you go:
To get to French Creek (on Vancouver Island) from the BC mainland, take the Tsawwassen - Nanaimo (Duke Point) ferry, or the Horseshoe Bay - Nanaimo (Departure Bay) ferry (about 90 minutes crossing), operated by BC Ferries.
Lasqueti Island ferry at 1-800-663-1500: sailings change with the seasons. Contact info@qualicum.bc.ca for the latest schedules and prices. It's about $5 per person and $10 per kayak in each direction. No cars.
An alternative approach for strong kayakers is from the Sunshine Coast (east side) of Georgia Strait. Start from Vancouver by taking the ferry from Horseshoe Bay to Langdale on the Sunshine Coast, then driving to Secret Cove. Paddle west past North Thormanby Island, (private, with beautiful sand beaches), then across Malaspina Strait to Upwood Point on the south end of Texada Island. Weather and tides can be factors. This part of Texada, with its rocky coastline and small bays, is mostly Crown Land, so you might find a campsite, but it's exposed to the SE weather. In good conditions, Secret Cove to Jedediah Island is 4-6 hours.
Paddle time from False Bay to Jedediah Island is 4-6 hours. Camping on Jedediah Island Park is still free. For the latest information see BC Parks.
If you need a kayak or a tour, try Powell River Sea Kayak, or Pacific Northwest Expeditions, or Sea Dog, or join one of the many mothership cruises, where you sleep on board and paddle each day.
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