Rick Hudson - travel writer and author

This appeared in WestJet Inflight Magazine

Into another world on the wild West Coast

In which wilderness traveller Rick Hudson discovers a lavish outpost of comfort near Hot Springs Cove in Maquinna Provincial Marine Park on Vancouver Island, BC

Throughout literature, writers have struggled to transport their characters from the real to the imaginary world. Alice fell down a rabbit hole into Wonderland. Dorothy was carried to Oz by a tornado. C.S.Lewis' children climbed through a wardrobe into Narnia.

But, a water-taxi? Can you really warp into another dimension on a water-taxi? Especially one painted banana yellow, with a pair of giant 225HP outboards on the back?

Hot natural shower.

Trust me. You're about to go somewhere that's truly magical. Cast off the lines, take a deep breath, and let skipper Ike Campbell carry you into the unknown.

The Miss B. Haven skims calm channels behind the outer islands north of Tofino, at speeds approaching 60 km/hr. Maybe there should be seatbelts. Who cares? We can feel the warp already, and bad things don't happen where we're going.

The mountains are tall and draped in mist. Forest ridges drop into fjords so still, the reflection makes you wonder where reality ends and reflection begins. Remember Meares Island? Sure you do … the largest civil protest in Canadian history. There it is off to the right ... now it's gone. We're in a narrow channel, racing towards the very edge of the North American continent, where great Pacific rollers come up hard against a shoreline of rocky headlands and white sand beaches.

An hour later, the Miss B enters Hot Springs Cove. A jetty provides the only access to shore. From there, it's a two kilometre boardwalk through lush rainforest to the undeveloped hot springs and pools.

Anchored near the dock lies the InnChanter, a working ship of the West Coast, built in 1926. Recently converted into an exclusive hotel with six suites, it's run by a truly remarkable character. Meeting Shaun Shelongonsky for the first time is like meeting the Mad Hatter, the Wizard of Oz, and Haslan all in one.

The vessel is crowded with books, the floors covered in Eastern rugs. Native Indian artifacts adorn the walls. Light filters through large windows ... no portholes here. This is Shangri-la, and we're welcome. Cabins are elegant, banter constant and witty. Shaun has worked as park ranger, storekeeper, shipwright and local builder for years. And the food and wine are superb, the more so here at the uttermost part of the earth.

Just don't bump your head .. you may wake up and find yourself back in Kansas.

If you go:
Fly WestJet to Comox or Victoria on Vancouver Island, BC. Rent a car for the 5 hour drive to the West Coast. In Tofino, Ocean Outfitters (877)906-2326 (www.oceanoutfitters.bc.ca) will whisk you out to Hot Springs Cove ($35 each way) and the InnChanter (250)670-1149 (www.innchanter.com), where you'll pay about $85/person/night (includes dinner & breakfast). Be sure to reserve well in advance. Or water-taxi one way and fly out for about $150. Or let Island Adventure Tours (250)812-7103 (adventuretours@canada.com) plan your entire West Coast stay.