Getting ready to start bedding plants

Growing bedding plants from seed can be very satisfying. With a little planning and preparation, it is a simple process. This column will give enough information allowing gardeners to decide if they are up to the challenge.

Purchase seeds from reputable sources. Seed packages should contain fresh seed that has been checked to make sure it will germinate. Look for packages with the germination and growing instructions on the back; they take the guesswork out of growing bedding plants. It should also include information on; temperature and length of time until the seeds germinate and plants flower. The more information given, the easier it is to achieve success. Read the package carefully, making sure all environmental conditions can be achieved, before buying the seeds.

Seeds have different germination requirements. Taking care that the requirements are met, insures good germination and growth. Some seeds need total darkness while others, require light before dormancy is broken. Seeds that only germinate in complete darkness should be covered in dark plastic, while light sensitive seeds need to be sown on top of the soil. Be sure to check under the plastic regularly as the seedlings can’t be left long in the dark. Fortunately, most annual seeds germinate if they are planted in warm, damp soil.

Temperatures for germination vary. The majority of annuals germinate best with bottom heat but some plants prefer to be cool and won’t break dormancy if they are too warm.

Once the seeds have germinated they need all the light our climate has to offer. Under artificial lights the plants need up to 18 hours of light a day.

Temperature is another important factor in growing bedding plants. Many of the plants grow well at room temperature but some do not. If the growing instructions recommend a cooler temperature, try to provide it. Plants that are grown in warmer than recommended temperatures grow too fast; often resulting in spindly plants with weak stems.

If the temperature is too low, the plants grow very slowly and will need more time to develop.

A sterilized, soil less mix is the best medium for growing bedding plants. Soil is often avoided as it can harbor diseases and viruses that destroy crops. The soil less mix is light, allowing roots to grow easily. Water moistens the soil but drains out readily; not causing the soil to become waterlogged. The drawback being, that soil less mixes do not contain many nutrients of their own and regular fertilizing is important.

There are many different containers for starting plants. They can be new, used, or recycled as long as they have good drainage. The used and recycled ones need to be washed in a 10% bleach solution to sterilize the containers. The size of the container or individual plant hole, in a cell pack, dictates the size of the plant. Cell packs can be purchased in a number of different configurations. Ones that hold 9 individual plants have much smaller holes than ones that hold 4. The trend at present time is to use cell packs that hold fewer, larger plants. Plants grown in larger containers have a better root system allowing the plant to be larger when transplanted into the garden.

Containers that are not divided into individual containers have the advantage of not drying out as rapidly. Unfortunately, the plant's roots become intertwined and need to be disturbed when they are transplanted. If possible, transplant the plants from these containers when they are small and not root bound.

Home gardeners have more options than the commercial greenhouses as handling and transporting plants is a big consideration. Peat pots, ferticubes and peat pellets work well, but won’t stand up to a commercial operation.

Peat pellets, often called Jiffy 7’s, are compressed peat moss encased in a netting. Once placed in water these pellets expand 3 times their original height. The pellets are kept in a tray of water and kept moist at all times. The roots will eventually grow out of the pellets and into the water. If allowed to dry out, the escaping roots die.

Ferticubes are a tray or flat of individual cubes made of compressed peat moss, vermiculite and perlite. They like the peat pellets are seeded individually. The plants or cubes are separated when the plants are planted out.

Pots made of compressed peat also work well. Some commercial growers still use these Peat Pots for plants that are hard to transplant. If the pot is totally saturated and planted below the surface, the peat pots will disintegrate allowing the roots to penetrate its sides. If the pots are dry or above the soil surface, they will retain their shape trapping the roots.

Once the seeds, pots, and growing medium have all been chosen; it is time to decide when to seed.

The information on the back of the seed package will tell how many weeks the seeds should be sown before the last frost. Add, the time to it takes the seeds to germinate; to the weeks the plant takes to mature together. Decide when the plants will be planted outside and count backwards. Plants that are to be set out on the long weekend, and need 8 weeks to mature, 14 days to germinate, need to be seeded around the 9th of March.

There are two ways to seed plants. One is to direct seed. This entails putting seeds in the exact spot where you want them to grow. It is the only way to plant Jiffy-7s and ferticubes mentioned last week.

An advantage of this system is in saving time and labor. The seeds are planted and left in the containers, until it is time to transplant them outdoors. Unfortunately, direct seeding takes up more room. If the germination rate is poor, containers must be replanted or left empty. Small seeds such as petunias are hard to plant individually.

The alternative is to sow seed close together or in rows. When the seedlings have their first or second set of true leaves, transplant them into larger containers. It is time consuming to transplant or "prick out" seedlings, but it is possible to choose healthy plants. If a transplant dies often there are replacements left from the original seeding. Transplanted seedlings initially suffer a setback, but soon catch up to direct seeded plants.

When transplanting seedlings, fill a container with moist soil and make narrow holes, with a finger or pencil, where the seedlings are to be planted. Remove a number of seedlings from the mass; separating them and placing them in the holes. Now carefully press the soil around the stem removing all air pockets. Not every plant should be planted individually. Plants such as Lobelia, Portulaca and some Dianthus look better if planted in bunches. Once transplanted, the seedlings need to be treated the same as direct seeded bedding plants.

Both methods work well. Personal preference, seeds, time, containers, and room determine which method is used.

To seed fill the pots with moist growing medium; usually a soil less mix. The seeds need to be placed carefully into the soil and covered lightly; unless instructed otherwise on the package.

Cover the containers loosely with plastic and set them aside to germinate. If too much condensation collects on the plastic, remove it and let the soil dry out slightly. Ventilation will help deter diseases.

Most annuals germinate best in warm conditions but check to package one more time to be sure. If possible, place pots on a warm surface. Many seeds germinate faster with a steady bottom heat.

When watering young plants make sure the nozzle is on a fine spray. Heavy spray will knock plants over or dig holes in the soil; exposing roots. Always give the plants enough water to allow it to run through the soil, and out the bottom of the pot. This insures the soil is evenly moist, as well as salts are not allowed to build up. Deep watering also encourages root growth.

Soil less growing mediums have very few nutrients of their own and need supplemented. Feed the plants weekly, using week solution of balanced fertilizer.

Allow the plants to grow inside, until a week or two before they are to be set out. At this time they need to be "hardened off"; or acclimatized to the outdoor environment. The best way to do this is to put them outside for part of the day. After a couple of hours, bring them back in. Increase the amount of time outdoors by a few hours each day, until they are outside all day. Once all danger of frost has passed they should be left outside all-night; then planted.