DTCB (The Doctor, The Tourist, His Crampon and Their Banana), 700 m, V M7
FA: Scott Semple and Raphael Slawinski, May 15, 2006

The route takes a direct line up a prominent (at least in morning light) right-facing crease (PHOTO) some 150 m left of the A-Strain. The climbing is very aesthetic (although each pitch has drytooling sections, most of the climbing is on ice), as well as sustained (much more so than the A-Strain). Take 60 m ropes and a full mixed rack: cams to #3 Camalot, wires, and a good selection of pins and screws (all lengths). It is not known how often the route is in shape, especially as much of the ice is hidden from below. At the time of the first ascent, other mixed lines on the mountain (A-Strain, Shooting Gallery) enjoyed exceptional ice conditions.

Approach as for the A-Strain and Practice Gullies. Start up the right-hand Practice Gully but quickly veer right into a small runnel. Above, trend right and up over snow to the base of a small break in the first major rock band, with a short overhanging crack above. The fun starts here (PHOTO).

1. Climb the break and crack (fixed cam) (PHOTO) to a narrow runnel of thick ice invisible from below (PHOTO). Climb the runnel and belay on the right.
2. Drytool the V-slot (PHOTO) above the runnel into a vertical chimney with ice in the back (fixed pin on the left under a small roof). Continue
over lower-angled ice to a big snow ledge (the traverse ledge on the A-Strain).
3. A couple of options present themselves; both converge after 10-15 m. We took the steep slot (PHOTO) on the left into a constricted ice gully. Above, ledges lead to loose drytooling up a right-facing corner, topped by steep ice. Belay at the base of a runnel of thick ice.
4. Climb the runnel (PHOTO), taking care not to drop anything on your belayer. Follow the runnel (mostly ice, some drytooling) as it trends right, belaying on ice when you run out of rope.
5. Climb out the top of the runnel and traverse up and right on snow ledges as high as possible. Belay behind a pinnacle.
6. Make a rock traverse back left (runout) (PHOTO) to a big right-facing corner, and stretch the rope up the corner with interesting mixed climbing (PHOTO) to a belay at the base of the summit snow slopes.
7. Trend up and right over snow and ice. 60 m ropes just reach an island of rock below the massively overhanging cornice (PHOTO).
8. Break through the cornice wherever it appears reasonable to do so. We ended up crawling beneath the cornices almost all the way to the A-Strain gully before finding a spot where they did not overhang.

Descend the east ridge (PHOTO).