In early September 2003, Peter Smolik and I made the third ascent of the Northeast Ridge of Mt. Alberta (PHOTO). We found it to be a superb climb with an unfortunate reputation. Given the guidebook description, we came expecting a horror show (PHOTO); but instead, found an excellent route with good climbing, amazing positions, and protection and belays that are solid throughout. This route deserves to see more traffic than it has received over the last 10 years (i.e., none). For competent 5.9/10 alpine climbers it offers the best way of reaching the summit of Alberta: it is interesting, safe, and incomparably more enjoyable than the rubble on the Japanese route.

Mt. Alberta NE Ridge, V 5.10-

From the hut we approached over glacier (staying high) and scree to the base of the ridge. From there, we moved around to the right (north) side over scree ledges, and then back left up a broad gully towards the crest. We climbed the crest and the rock to its right until the angle eased (loose but not difficult – easy 5th class, running belays, some fixed rappel stations). Unroping, we continued scrambling up over broken rock steps, shale and snow to gain a long horizontal section of ridge. It seemed easiest to traverse it on a ledge system below the crest (PHOTO) on the left (east) side. We regained the crest where the ridge steepened, at a notch between two prominent pinnacles. Starting at this notch, we changed into rock shoes and climbed 5 belayed pitches. The rock is adequate on the lower pitches and superb on the upper ones.

1. 55 m, 5.10-. Skirt the pinnacle easily on the right (north) side (PHOTO) and continue up a slabby face on the far side of the next notch. Pass an overhang on the right, move back left on some ledges and continue up a crack splitting a bulge. Belay on a small but good ledge with a bomber gear crack.
2. 30 m, 4th class. Scramble up to a big ledge below the steep headwall with a prominent chimney visible up and left.
3. 55 m, 5.9. Move up and right ( PHOTO ) to avoid some steeper blank rock, then back left to easier-angled ground. Continue up and left on steep rock with big holds to a bulge. Move right under this to a short left-facing corner, and follow it up and left to a small belay below a chockstone in the prominent chimney.
4. 55 m, 5.8. Climb the steep chimney to some ledges. Follow a low-angled left-facing corner, exiting right below a roof. Continue up and right, and belay on a sloping ledge right of a prominent steep left-facing corner. Great views down the north face! (PHOTO) It might be possible to step left under the above-mentioned roof and climb a different line on the next pitch.
5. 55 m, 5.10-. Make difficult moves to enter the left-facing corner and follow it (superb climbing) to reach low-angled rock at the base of the upper ridge.

From this point we simulclimbed all the way to the summit, stopping only to change back into boots at a small sloping ledge with an old bolt (!), presumably a relic of the bivi on the FA. We descended the Japanese route.

Time: 14:15 hut-to-hut (approximately 1 hour hut to base of ridge, 7 hours base to summit, 5 hours summit to hut, plus assorted rests).

Gear: 60 m double ropes, set of Stoppers, Camalots from #0.2 to #3.5 (the big cam is not absolutely necessary but is nice to have in a couple of spots), Rockies’ pin rack (KB, LA and angle), rock shoes and an ice tool apiece, crampons (we got away with one pair of crampons between the two of us, wearing one crampon apiece on the icy sections – mind you, the mountain was exceptionally dry).