-
keep your bike clean.
You can more easily spot oil leaks,
bearing failures and other defects if
your bike is clean.
-
regularly check your
wheel bearings for tightness. At least
every 6 months re-grease your axle
bearings.
-
if you do it yourself
get the tools. You'll need a Park brand
or equivalent gear cassette tool to
remove the rear gears off the axle (to
gain access to the bearings on one side
for re-greasing).
-
you'll also need a
"chainwhip" (any brand) which
is basically a bar with some chain on
it, this is how you hold the gearset
while turning the gear cassette tool
above.
-
use quality bearing
grease. Any good automotive grease will
work, those that resist water are even
better.
-
when removing the gear
cassette be sure to soak and clean it
in either an environmentally friendly
solvent or use hot water and ZEP liquid
orange cleaner (Home Depot) and a
brush. When it's dry (use a towel or
blow it dry) you may want to use some
light silicone spray to protect it. As
far as I know they are usually made
from exotic aluminum alloys or plated
or stainless so corrosion is typically
not an issue.
-
if you have a Marzocchi
front suspension like me (Z1 dropoff)
you can download excellent pdf files
which show an exploded parts diagram.
Maintenance is easy. The shocks come
apart with relative ease.
-
if you don't have
friendly solvent cleaner use hot water
to clean the grime out of the shock
body when you have all the parts
removed. Dirt tends to accumulate in
the bottom of the shock body (it
settles out of the hydraulic oil). Dirt
inevitably gets past the dust and oil
seals in the shocks.
-
the more you do shock
maintenance the better. Never use the
crappy oil you can buy in the bike
store when refilling your reassembled
shocks. Always us Bel-Ray brand HVI
"racing suspension fluid". If
it's good enough for a Suzuki racing
dirtbike then it will work great in
your bike shock. HVI oil does not
attack plastic like some of the cheap
(but expensive) stuff available in your
bike shop. I got 1 litre of it at the
nearby Suzuki motorcycle dealer for
$17.95 CDN which is $2 more than the
bike shop stuff but you get 3 or 4x as
much.
-
if your local bike shop
only has stupid idiot mechanics on the
payroll then you can call Norco Bikes
in Canada to get Marzocchi parts sent
to your favourite bike shop, they can
also fax you a parts diagram and all
the part numbers for your Marzocchi
shock (very helpful). Three shops I
called didn't know what part I was
talking about when I asked them to
order the plastic valve inside the
valve body in the bottom of the
stanchion tube. Apparently these guys
rebuild shocks but don't know what's
inside'em. This doesn't inspire
confidence.
-
Marzocchi fails to
mention in their manuals that if you
have hardly any compression and zero
rebound dampening the little plastic
valve inside the valve assembly in the
bottom of the stanchion tube could be
broken. It looks like a plastic washer
with a raised inside edge. Apparently
they used to make this out of aluminum
but it cost to much to manufacture so
they went to plastic... a few 10ft
dropoffs and these are toast.
Fortunately they are $4-4.50 each (one
per leg). I was told to ask for the
grey colour ones as they're stronger
than the white ones. Other things to
note... bushings are $60 CDN per leg
and the oil seal or dust seal is just
under $15 CDN each.
-
when your chain looks
worn and ratty get a new one! You'll
only damage your sprockets with a
stretched chain. If your sprockets are
damaged you'll need to replace those as
well or your new chain will be worn out
much quicker. This is a good rule taken
from motorcycles.
-
check your tire air
pressure regularly.
-
look for damage to the
tread or sidewall of the tires, if you
do a lot of jumping double check your
rear tire especially with hardtail
frames (no rear suspension) that take a
pounding.
-
check for rim runout....
look at your brake calipers, if you
have disc brakes just check the rim as
you ride. If it goes from side to side
then take your wheel to a bike shop to
have it "trued".