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This page is for your information only.
We do not breed Spiny Mice.









Scientific name - Acomys dimiditus

The Spiny Mouse (also known as the Egyptian Spiny mouse) originally comes from Egypt.
The Spiny Mouse is named for the specially adapted quills on their backs, which are short and quill-like. These hairs serve as a defence mechanism as well as a cooling system.
A full grown Spiny mouse is slightly larger than a mouse.


The Spiny mouse makes a good pet for adults and children. Their needs are few and they are easy to care for.
Spiny Mice have two advantages over most other mice. First, as is normal for most desert animals, they do not have an offensive odour to their urine. Second they are very easy going and are willing to climb around on you without taking off at mach 1.
A Spiny mouse will do quite well on its own, but it is recommended that they be kept in pairs. If you keep two male Spiny mice together, they should be litter mates. The Spiny mouse is generally active both during the day and at night. They are quite happy to come out during the day for some playtime, as long as they get their beauty sleep in as well. With proper care a Spiny mouse will usually live 4-5 years.


A glass or plastic aquarium (at least a 10 gallon aquarium) or a wire cage is suitable for the Spiny mice. An all-plastic hamster cage with the tube attachments is not recommended, as they can chew out of these fairly quickly. Care should be taken if the cage has multiple levels, as the levels are usually made out of wire and a Spiny mouse can easily be hurt if its leg falls through the wire. It might be a good idea to attach cardboard to the wire shelves to protect their legs. The cardboard will need replacing occasionally.
Place your Spiny mouse cage in a spot that is away from drafts and direct sunlight. The Spiny mouse is a desert animal and drafts will chill them.
Since the Spiny mouse is a desert animal they can be adversely affected by cold. If you let your house cool off during those cold winter nights, it is a good idea to supply them with some source of heat (i.e. a heating pad, heat lamp, etc).


Hardwood chip bedding, such as aspen is the best. CareFresh Pet Bedding or Pine bedding will also work as long as it is not dusty. The dust can cause upper respiratory problems. NEVER use cedar shavings, as cedar contains phenols, which can cause severe irritation to a Spiny mouse.


Supplying a house for your Spiny mouse to sleep in is a good idea, just make sure that the house doesn't have a bottom, otherwise cleaning it is very difficult.
Nesting material should be supplied for their bed. Soft paper, such as toilet paper and paper towel, torn into strips works well. Shredded paper or fresh hay will also make suitable nest material. Cotton wool and the fluffy hamster bedding are not recommended.
A Spiny mouse should have a wheel in its cage to get some exercise on. The wheel should be at least 5" in diameter. The wheel should be of the solid variety, as the Spiny mouse could injure itself if its leg falls through the wire wheel. If all that you can get is a wire wheel, then "weave" some heavy card paper (cereal boxes work well) through the wire to make a solid wheel. The card paper will have to be changed once in a while.
Spiny mice need something to chew on. Their teeth are always growing and without something to chew on they will end up with overgrown teeth and they will not be able to eat. Small blocks of softwood and hardwood, cardboard tubes (paper towel tubes, toilet paper tubes, etc), card paper, etc are great.


The best way to pick up a Spiny mouse is to either scoop it up in your hands or to let it walk up into your open hand. Don't try to pick up a Spiny by it's tail, it could come off and it won't grow back.
Once you have the Spiny mouse out, be careful, as the Spiny mouse may walk off your hands (they can't seem to tell how far away the floor is). It is a good idea to sit on the floor or on a couch while you have the Spiny Mouse out, this helps avoid any injuries from falling to the floor.
The Spiny mice sense of smell is very good, keep this in mind when you go to handle it. If you have just been eating, your hands smell like food. To a Spiny mouse, your finger smells like the potato chip you ate 10 minutes ago, and it may try to eat your finger! Don't worry, it usually realizes that your finger isn't food. If you have anything on your hands that give off an offensive odour, you may not even notice it, but the Spiny mouse will and it may bite in reaction to the smell. Always remember to wash your hand first. As they say "first impressions", well a Spiny mouse first impression of you is your smell.


Whether you are buying a Spiny mouse from a pet store or a breeder, you should ask questions, even if you know the answers from your own research. This will tell you how knowledgeable they really are. If they don't know what they are talking about, buyer beware! If they don't want to give you any information or want to help you, buyer beware!
Check out their facilities carefully. Look for overcrowding, dirty cages, unhealthy animals, smell the air. If the animals are overcrowded and/or the cages are dirty, be very cautious about buying a Spiny mouse. There shouldn't be any sickly animals in sight, any good breeder/pet shop will have a "sick" room for any animals that aren't up to par. If the establishment/breeding facility has a very strong odour, be very careful, even if it looks clean, the smell is coming from somewhere. Any place, that has animals, will have a smell to it. The larger the facility, the stronger the odour. They just can't clean as fast as the animals do their business. But if the odour is overpowering, then there might be something else under the surface, use caution.
Check the health of the animal before you buy it and handle it. If they won't let you handle it before you buy it. They may be hiding something, WATCH OUT! Handling the Spiny mouse tells you how tame it is and you have a chance to check its health. Look for discharge from its eyes and nose, sneezing, wet rear end and firmness of body. If it has any of these conditions or its body appears thin, don't buy it. Don't even consider another Spiny mouse from the same cage as the other Spiny mice may also have the same problems. The Spiny mouse you choose should be bright eyed and interested in what is going on without being too nervous. There eyes and nose should be clear, the rear end dry and the body firm to the touch.
If possible, check references. Referrals from other satisfied customers will tell you a lot about that breeder's/pet shop's quality of animals, their care and concern for the animals well-being, their "customer service" and how much information they are willing to share.


A good quality rodent mix that has a variety of small seeds and grains in it, and is low on sunflower is good for Spiny mice. Spiny mice can get quite fat on a diet that is high in sunflower. They can also be given rodent blocks as part of the diet. Some rodent blocks consider themselves as a "complete diet" for mice. There are a couple of problems with this. First, the blocks are boring. Second, if they can't figure out a complete diet for humans, then how can they honestly say they have a complete diet for mice. The Spiny mice should also get, on the occasion, hay, apple, carrot, broccoli, yam or dandelion and mealworms. All of these should be fed in small amounts and only as a treat, too much green stuff can give them the runs.
A Spiny mouse diet should be supplemented with a mineral stone as well as with a good quality vitamin supplement.

This page is for your information only.
We do not breed Spiny Mice.




© Petite Paws Exotics
Last updated February 2009