|
Here is a comparison of the two
rotors. The caddy is slightly wider and larger in diameter, but
the calipers and pads still fit over them. |
 |
 |
This is the setup used to re-drill the
bolt pattern. Another disc with the Ford pattern was centered
over the caddy caliper with a polymer cone alignment fixture.
Okay, a yogurt cup.
Amazingly enough it worked and slid the two rotors into position.
[The rotor being used as a pattern was too
big and had a center hole too large to use.]
The two rotors were clamped together on the
drill press and cut using a 1/2 drill. The cast drilled easily.
When a hole was finished a bolt was
placed in it to hold the alignment.
The third rotor at the bottom is just being
used as a spacer. |
|
When one was done it was bolted to
the other caddy rotor. The bolts had a wrap of tape to hold them
tightly in place. The holes were then beveled lightly with a
larger drillbit.
Out of the ten holes only one rubbed
slightly on the shoulder of a wheel stud A few seconds with a
Dremel fixed that. Altogether easier than I thought it would
be.
The SN-95 axle flanges had to be shrunk
in diameter to fit inside the rotor. I forgot the measurements,
but there is a bevel on the rear of the flange that has to come
off entirely. The studs were knocked out and the flange held
in the lathe. Afterwards the studs were whacked back in with
a big hammer.
While cutting, the swarf had a tendency to light on fire.
Strange metal. |
 |
 |
While getting the axles from a 2000
Mustang I noticed the brake hoses have changed. They no longer
run along the axle to a rubber hose in the center. They now have
a rubber hose that goes directly to the frame, then to the metal
lines.
This was done for ABS. Each wheel must have its' own line.
So as a 'might as well' I got some hoses
and brackets. The problem was that the rubber axle snubber was
in the way of mounting the bracket.
The first plan was to cut the bracket and drill a new hole,
but that would still leave the snubber to interfere with the
hose. |
|
Plan B was to cut off the snubber. A
cutting disc took off most and a hammer and chisel did the rest.
The spot weld hole was even in the right spot.
After a quick sandblast and paint self
tapping screws zipped them on. |
 |
 |
The snubbers were cut down, had
tabs welded on and painted. After they were screwed on someone
said that newer shocks had built in snubbers, so my Bullitt Tokicos
would have been all right.
Too late.
(after the car was driven it became clear
the snubbers were too low. They hit the axle on dips and alleyways,
and were trimmed with a hacksaw.) |
|
Next was the tubing. I could have
gotten standard auto store brake line and adapters, but I went
to a brake shop and had two lines made up. One was 24 in and
the other 26. Both had 3/16 double flares on one end and metric
bubble flares on the others.
They soaked me. Guess it's my fault
for not asking the price. They are nice lines though. Everything
has a coppery coating and should last forever.
This fitting is from a non-abs car.
One line would come from the front to this side, then double
back to the other. I couldn't find a plug so filled the line
with solder and put it back on. |
 |
 |
The lines meet in the center of
the car, offset to one side. This will clear the 3rd link and
the driveshaft. |
|
The rotors are on. Now to get the t-bird
calipers over them.
The caddy rotors are a bit larger in diameter. They could
be cut down but that is missing the point. The rotor should be
as big as possible.
So to line things up the axle mount holes had to be re-drilled
outward. I could have used the t-bird mount, but several washers
would be needed as spacers. So SN-95 mustang mounts were used.
They also had more meat around the hole.
Some stray bolt was beveled and welded
in on one side. The first one was welded all the way around,
which was dumb because they have to be drilled out again, and
weld filler is hard on drill bits.
The old holes were metric and the new
ones 1/2 in, but difference was about 1/64 so I didn't worry
about it.
A slot was cut to get the bracket on
and off without removing the axle. |
 |
 |
Perfect fit.
Notice that one washer is still needed.
When the bolts were torqued down the cage was centered evenly
around the rotor. |
|
The T-bird rear caliper has a
larger piston than the later Mustang. The T-bird/Taurus caliper
has 45mm bore, while the Cobra/GT rear calipers are 38mm bore.
The pads are also a bit larger but the pad selection is less.
The cage, or pad bracket, is wider
on the T-bird and can take a wider rotor. The Cobra must use
a narrow vented disc to fit into its' caliper.
The two small pistons on the caliper
are from the wheel cylinder of the drum brakes. Talk about tiny.
|
 |
 |
These types of calipers must be screwed
down into the bore. If you try to squeeze them in you'll be there
all day. The two slots must also end up as shown above.
I made my tool from a socket stump with
two screwbits welded on. The other tool is a socket on a stick,
used to loosen the axle gear cross shaft pin. It's difficult
to get a ratchet or wrench on it. |
|
During test assembly the anti-moan
brace wouldn't fit because the holes had moved. It was cut in
two along the axle line and overlapped on top of each other,
then welded and dipped in a can of paint. |
 |
 |
The brake line and hose snakes its'
way through the components to the mount. |
|
Then the lines meet on the drivers
side of the 3rd link in a brass tee. The armored line goes to
the front.
The spiral wrap protects the line and makes
it easier to bend without crushing it. |
 |
 |
Emergency brake cables had to
be changed to the newer disc brake style with different ends.
The old ones had casings that clipped into the frame. These
were removed and the football shaped cable pulleys as well. The
new cables had a tube of soft hose pulled over it, then zip tied
over the old holes.
There are also brackets that bolt onto
the lower suspension arms to keep the lines away from the tires. |
|
This bracket was torn out of
a 2000 mustang with a tire iron. It was installed with two screws
and pop rivets and connected to the stock handle and tee pivot.
I had the measurement written down somewhere but can't seem to
find it.
The adjusters in early Foxes works from inside the car.
The other end of the hook is threaded rod with a flat side. Lift
up the e-brake handle a little and you can see the nut. No need
to crawl underneath.
The adjuster parts looks old but has just been sand blasted
and coated with bedliner.
The brake line sneaks by in the tunnel.
It was all clear coated after installation.
Sometimes hot air could be felt
coming in around the handle hole. Caulk and another rubber piece
were sleeved over the original torn gaiter. |
 |
 |
From rear to front the lines were 3/16.
One 60 inch, one 50, and a short 12 at the front. If you wanted
to go straight to the prop valve a 60 and 50 should do. I looped
mine up.
The loop at the front had a connector
installed in case an adjustable proportioning valve needs to
be installed. For now the guts from a 2000 was swapped into the
stock prop.
The drum brake spring was shorter, fatter, and felt stronger
than the disc spring.
Note that the car has hydroboost.
With a larger vacuum booster the line would have to be routed
differently. |
|
To make bleeding easier this top was
made. A factory cap was drilled and a fitting added. The rubber
is a brake hose from a truck I no longer owned. The other end
has a standard fitting for an air hose. Just hook it up to the
compressor.
If you do this make SURE the pressure
is dialed way down to 10 psi or so. Once it was attached full
strength and the cap blew off and pressurized brake fluid erupted
everywhere. |
 |
 |
Ready to go.
It seems no one does rotor turning
anymore. Three shops had no machine and said 'cheaper to buy
them'. A big chain store did them for a reasonable price, but
the guy was totally baffled why anyone would paint rotors.
If you have to ask I can't tell you. He didn't notice
the dual wheel pattern though, until I told him.
They were sure narrowed down. They are
about the width of t-bird discs now.
Five bolt wheels at four corners now,
and better brakes. A CrownVic 16 in aluminium spare finishes
it off. |
|
Finally Finished.
Just get it on the ground and take it
for a drive....AAAHH CRAP! Snow! Started the night I finished.
Six months of winter now.
Well, I drove it around and nothing
fell off. Hard to get any meaningful differences between old
and new on slippery streets.
I'll give an update in 2009.
Or maybe 2011. I've been driving around for
a few years and have had no problems. Brakes work and e-brake
works better than before.
There was a scraping noise on left turns,
but after checking the brakes a few times I found the shock tube
had a slight dent that rubbed only on turns. Sneaky. |
 |
|
|
|