Here's the type of thing that makes you believe you're cursed.

 After I installed T-bird a-arms in my altered crossmember, as explained in Mustang Performance Part 2, I noticed a slight tapping if a bump was hit with the wheel turned. After a couple of years it got annoying enough to take everything apart. I guessed the arm was tapping the crossmember, and that's what it was.
 That's not what this page is about though.
 When I began to remove the arm the front bolt came out just fine. However the rear one was not moving. I tried a long ratchet, and then a pipe on the ratchet, and then my legs on the pipe. Finally, there was some movement, but it was very hard to turn. I was exhausted, and when I looked over the situation, I saw that the bolt was not coming out, but that the crossmember was bulging.
 After thinking it over I realized that the bolt was somehow frozen to the metal bushing inside the rubber! I had not loosened the bolt, but had torn the bushing free from the rubber!!
 Now it was just spinning inside the crossmember, and since the nut was welded to the crossmember, the bolt was slowly pushing the metal sideways.
 After spending a day trying various things I realized that the only way to get it out was to cut the crossmember and yank the bolt out sideways. I cut out a square of metal and pried off the arm with a giant crowbar.

 Here is the bolt still frozen to the bushing. You can see the rubber still stuck to it. next to it is the replacement from the wreckers. I primered it and used antiseize when it was put back in!

 Below, the bolt is finally removed. I cut the head off, heated it severely, and beat on it with a giant sledgehammer, before it slowly came apart. Rust poured out of it when it did.

  I needed to reinstall the bushing. It was sunday and I didn't want to buy a new a-arm anyway. A hole was drilled in the side of the arm and with the bushing in place silicone was squeezed into the hole to take the place of the missing rubber. It's not as good as before, but it will do until I get replacements.The square of metal is from the crossmember. The missing piece was the first cut to get the bolt out. Afterwards it was squared off to be replaced easier.

 Here is the k-member. I cut a square of metal and used the a-arm to position it before tacking it then MIG welding.

 I gave it a spray bomb paintjob then went and had a stiff shot. Or two.

 It's a mystery why it rusted up like that.

Update; A few years later one rear end trailing arm bolt also rusted tight and had to be cut out the same way. So I guess that's 2 in a million.