I made this breather with an oil filler cap and a piece of air cleaner filter. These caps sometimes come apart by themselves anyway so that part was easy. A holesaw was used on the cap and a drill bit on the bottom. A piece of speaker grill was placed inside the hole and a socket was hammered into it, forming it into the hole.

It was all epoxied together.

Thunderbird Supercoupes have a spring on the throttle cable to take up the slack. I found one with a cut cable and pulled the parts off. The green piece is the stock bushing. Undo the cable at the engine for slack and then slip the spring over the end. The white piece had a slot cut into it to slip over the cable and is held on by the spring. When the cable is reattached everything is snug.

Aerostar vans have a similiar spring on their gas pedal. Actually, they have two.

Aerostars also have this type of steering u-joint that hooks right up to mustang rack and pinions. The collar has a rubber insert with a crosspin for safety. Just cut the shafts and weld them together.

GM astro vans have a similiar steering u-joint.

The external fuel pump mount is from a 280ZX. The pump is mounted in a clamp, which is bonded to 2 rubber blocks that do a great job absorbing noise and vibration. I hear the pump only when the engine isn't running. The one in the picture was sandblasted and primered.
The bolts are metric, and the old ones were pretty rusty.

A shot inside the gas tank of an EFI car. This one is from a mustang that I bought for the new fuel pump that came with it. The baffle had broken loose so the top was cut off to see what's what. Two soldered joints are all that hold it together. Baffling.

The top opening is offset quite a bit.

As for the pump, I tested it using water, and it rusted up solid within a week. Doh!

 This is a bracket made to adapt a GM CS130 alternator to a 5.0 bracket. Why? At the time 3Gs were rare and CS130s weren't. 105 amps for 15 bucks, and recently rebuilt. However the spacing is different so the bolt holes don't line up. You could move the alternator sideways a little and use a piece of steel with two holes in it, but I wanted to use the same belt.
 The stud is welded to the bracket, and the bolt has to be exactly the right length.
  The bottom hole on the alt. has to be drilled out for the bolt. The pulley is a bit bigger but that is no problem.

 J.C.Whitney has a 150 amp rebuild kit for CS130s.

 Did you ever wonder what is inside the engine temperature sensor? It is a standard thermistor just like the air temp. It sits in a blob of heat sink grease for good transfer from the brass shell.

 I used the plug part to make an adapter for testing.

 A cheap way to get an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator is to convert a Bosch unit from a CFI carb type EFI. It bolts right up to the standard fuel line.
 The hole in the center has a plug that needs to be removed. I dremelled it and used a screwdriver to twist it out. Underneath is an allen head screw used for adjustment. Inside the allen screw is an air bleed that has to be closed. I used epoxy.
 A vacuum line needs to be added for lean cruising. I soldered a brass nipple to the side, in line with the tang at the bottom. Remember there is a spring inside, so don't drill into it.

 If you're wondering what the inside of a filter looks like here it is. The paper is glued to the outlet plate with a thick glue that looks like light brown body putty.

I used a can opener, and it took about a dozen turns.

There's a pawn shop nearby that has large bins full of sockets. I've used them to make several special use tools such as EFI sockets. Many of them use old sparkplug sockets, because there are so many around, and a ratchet or wrench can be used on them in tight spots.
The one with the slot is for O2 sensors and is for the wiring pigtail. Several times it has flexed on frozen threads so I later made a crowfoot style with a 7/8 inch socket welded beside a 1/2 drive. Just cut it in half and weld it back together.
I wrote their use on them for later reference.

I converted a EFI car to carb and wanted to use the elctric high pressure pump, but didn't have a regulator.
I made a Tee fitting as shown to lower the pressure. The restrictor lets most of the gas return but keeps a bit of pressure at the carb.
A 1/16 hole dropped carb pressure to 20psi, and a 1/8 to 13. It took a 11/64 to get to 8 psi, which is a fairly big hole. I suppose this is because as pressure drops in the pump, volume increases. The higher volume kept the pressure up.

It works fine.