Disclaimer and Warning: the following information on the Koenig's King winch is meant as an explanation of what we did to make our damaged winch functional, not as instructions on how to use this or any other winch. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Winch use is inherently dangerous and can easily cause serious injury or death. |
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Broken Winch Control
Here you can see the farm-made control arm (cut open) that the PO used to engage and disengage the power from the drum. Not a bad repair but, of course, the factory brake is completely missing. We will fix... |
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Winch with the control side A-frame removed. The collared 'dog' can be seen engaged with the powered shaft. |
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This is the first homemade set of replacement aluminum tabs held in place with small temporary sheet metal screws. This allows location of the steel pin that is the fulcrum for the control lever. Locating the exact position for the 1/4" diameter fulcrum pin is tricky.
You can see where the factory tabs broke off (red arrows) |
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To replace the broken-off winch control arm tabs there were two obvious ways. Firstly, new tabs could be welded onto the A frame. An experienced welder warned me that the new tabs would surely break off again because old aluminum is brittle and doesn't take well to welding. Also, the thickness of the casting, where the original tabs were, was too thin and irregular.
The second method was to make new brackets, to work as the tabs, out of aluminum "angle iron" as shown here. I ended up making two sets of these brackets to get a good design. |
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Replacement original parts (red arrows), fully rebuilt, were obtained from Herm-The-Overdrive-Guy in Washington State ready for reassembly.
Again, you can see where the tabs broke off the A-frame here and also how the new brackets fit. Note that the new bracket is held on with two 1/4" bolts that thread into a piece of steel stock (green arrow). There isn't enough room inside the A-frame to put in place nuts, washers and lock washers, so the single rectangular piece of threaded stock works well.
The repair may be stronger than the OEM design. |
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The fulcrum pin is only held in place with a pair of flimsy "C clips" which does not inspire confidence. I simply drilled holes on the outside of the clips, added cotter pins, to make a more secure design. |
