Exterior painting - surface preparation

Surface preparation is without question the most important step in obtaining an attractive, long-lasting painted finish, it is generally the least performed.

Many do-it-yourself painters are not aware that the life of a painted surface, is directly proportionate to the care taken during surface preparation.

Regardless of whether you are repainting or working with a previously unpainted surface, take the time to correct basic problems and prepare surfaces properly. Even though a new unpainted surface tends to pose fewer problems (primarily because there's no guesswork in deciding what type of finish has already been applied), the appropriate surface preparation is still crucial to ensure trouble-free results.

Before starting your exterior painting project, run a quick inspection tour to check out likely trouble spots. These include window and door frame areas, steps, siding, downspouts, under-eave areas and anywhere else moisture is likely to collect.

If there's cracking or peeling of the old coating, use a wire brush to remove the original paint. If you discover extensive moisture damage over a large area, you'll need to sand the entire surface area to ensure the new coating will adhere. In either case, be sure to feather edges with sandpaper to provide an even appearance after painting.

If the old coating is slated for removal, a pre-painting prime job is a must. Ask your local paint store representative which primer is best suited to the surface in question. Remember that the entire coating 'system' should be treated as a unit. Just as your primer should be suitable for the surface, the top coat you choose must be compatible with the primer.

A CLEAN SURFACE

A clean surface is another must for any painting job - paint cannot adhere to dirt, grease, chalk, wax or other surface contamination. Use a mild detergent or trisodium phosphate solution to remove accumulated surface residues. After a thorough scrub-down, rinse the area well with clean water and allow to dry completely before priming or painting.

Any mildew growth on exterior surfaces must also be removed before repainting or the mildew will continue to feed on edible materials in the paint and eventually destroy the new coating. Since moisture is the single most important factor in mildew growth, the discoloration is usually found in damp, dark areas such as northern exposure sites. To determine if mildew is present, drop a small amount of household bleach on the discolored surface. If it's mildew, the bleach will destroy and whiten the fungus. If not, nothing will happen.

The most effective way to remove mildew is to scrub the surface with a soft brush using a solution of one cup non-ammonia detergent, one quart of household bleach and one gallon of water. For maximum protection, use a mildew-resistant primer and paint. A generous topcoat will provide a further safeguard against penetration of the mildew fungi.

BEFORE BEGINNING TO PAINT

 

Before beginning, patch any nail holes and caulk open joints in siding and other exterior wood surfaces. By priming these areas first, you can prevent the vehicle or binder in the caulking or patching compound from being absorbed into the wood and thus extend the life of the compound.

A FINAL POINT

The type of paint you choose can sometimes have a significant effect on the type or degree of surface preparation required. For example, if you select an exterior latex like BREEZE ACRYLIC LATEX to apply over an exterior gloss house paint, you will need to sand or otherwise reduce the gloss of the existing surface to ensure the new latex will adhere. If you're unsure about the preparation required for your painting job, check with your local paint store representative. In the long run you'll be glad you did!

 
 

 

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