Tackle & Gear

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FLY RODS

There are many different types of fly rods out there for a person to choose from. The most important thing to think about is what can I afford and what will do the job for me. As a beginner it is not usually a good idea to go out and spent $500.00+ dollars on a new fly rod to catch a pike when an $100.00 rod will do just as well until you become experienced and are able to get the benefits out of such an expensive one. There are many types of rod to choose from. I have found that a rod in the 8-10 weight is the most preferred. Fast action graphite rods are usually preferred by most pike fishermen. Sizes range from 9-10' long. I have several 3-piece 10' and have found them great when dealing with huge flies. Most used are 91/2 ' long and are two piece. A feature you might want to look for when buying a rod is does it have a fighting butt, for smaller pike this is not important but when you may have a chance to catch one in the 50" class it sure makes it easier to handle the fish. I use a 9 and a 10 weight 3 piece Sages for pike and have found them excellent in all ways.

FLY LINES

Both Cortland and Scientific Angler make what they call a pike line. Both are excellent. I have both, have had a chance to used both extensively on my trips North, and have found they perform both very similar. They are both floating with heavy weight forward heads, which help to cast heavy flies. My personal choices are the following.

A good pike floating line either of the above.

A good sinking tip weight forward between an 8-12' sink tip. This is a line that floats and the last 8-10' of it will sink. You can get various types of sink rates and that means the speed in which it will sink. If you're fishing in shallow water use a slow sink and if in deeper water use a fast sink.
A good sinking line for fishing the deeper water, they also come in various sinking rates so you will have to decide on which will be best for your situation. I usually carry a slow and a fast on spare spools. I'm able to do this as I use 10 weight lines on both of my rods. I usually set one up with a floating and one with a sink tip that covers most of the water I fish in as it usually runs from 3' to 10' deep so the two lines are all I need. Keep them clean as it helps the casting. It is wise to clean the several times a trip if the water is not clear, especially during spring run off.

REELS

There are many brands of reels out there. Buy a good one as it will always be used on what ever rod you own A good single action reel is all you need make sure it has a good drag system and you can get extra spools for it. If you have only one rod this is important as you will want more than on line for back up. Make sure there is enough room for backing and it should be at least 100 yards and at least 25 -30 lb. Test. I have had pike run my 100 yards just about out to the end, this is not common but it can happen so be prepared. There are lot of types out ask around and find out which are used the most.

LEADERS

You can buy pre made Pike leaders, I have tried them and found in most cases they work ok, but have also had them fail me on big pike. I now make my own and have rarely lost a big pike to a leader failure. I use a loop on the end of my fly line and loop to loop a 6-8' piece of 30lb monofilament line of good quality to it, I then loop to loop my steel leader about 18" of it. There is a lot of controversy about steel leaders verse heavy mono leaders (30-40lb), Both are good it will depend upon what you like. I have found that I don't like the Mono and have perfected a steel leader system that has not let me down. I use mostly a nylon coated 17lb steel leader, which I have put together in a way that works great for me. I will use a 25lb in rare cases where I'm in very heavy weed beds and need the extra strength. I colour code my leaders and make them up a head so will have 30+ ready for a trip.. I use the figure Eight knot to ties my flies on with and have never had it fail. I have had pike bite through the steel leader but this is rare. I have not found Pike to be as leader shy as Trout.

KNOTS

	Surgeon's double loop (used to join lines together)
	Perfection knot (used to make loops for loop to loop connections)
	Figure Eight (used to attach flies to steel leaders)

OTHER GEAR

Jaw spreaders - are a must. They will save your fingers. Be sure and get a good powerful pair, as I have seen a pike shut his jaws on them, try and get it out then good luck. I usually wrap some foam around the wire as they can be dropped over board and if you've only got one set your in trouble. People tape the ends to protect the mouths of the pike or glue beads etc on the points, it all helps. The most important thing to remember is keep your hands and fingers out of their mouths if you want to keep them. I have been bitten so bad one day I had to use a pressure dressing to stop the bleeding, I got to close and it grabbed my hand slashing me. They other problem with pike bites is they infect very quickly so must be cleaned immediately and bandaged. Barbless hooks are necessary it makes releasing so much easier and safer.
Forceps - at least 6-8+ inches long and should be strong. I tie a cord with a float on it incase it goes over board.
Pliers have two types. One pair of good long needle nose. In addition, a good pair off pliers that will debarb, but mostly be able to cut through a 3/0 hook incase you sink one into your self. They will also be used to cut steel leaders.
Line clippers - a good pair of large fingernail clippers works well for this.
Hook sharpener -I use a good diamond file for this as I like razor sharp hooks for pike as they have huge jaw bones. I usually have all my flies sharpened before I leave, and then only have to touch up as I go.
Polarized glasses - a good pair of these is a must as many a good pike has be missed because it wasn't seen in time to cast to it. They also provide protection to miss directed 3/0 fly. Reduce the glare from the sun.
Stripping basket -this is one of the most important items as there is nothing worse that chasing your fly line around the boat in a wind, it helps to keep it clean and to protect it. If there's something for it to hang up on your line will find it.
A good Hat - a must keeps the sun and rain off.
Rain gear - also a must, it not only keeps you dry, it will keep you warm in bad weather. I will often wear it even if its not raining to use it as a windbreak It can make the difference between a successful trip and a very miserable one. There's nothing worse than being cold.
Neoprene gloves - are very handy to have as they keep the body heat in, and are waterproof.
Rubber boots - usually store a pair under my seat just in case the weather gets bad.
Float tube or Pontoon boat -great for small lakes but would be careful on large lakes especially ones that are known for severe wind problems. It can be fun being towed around by pike. I have friends in Alberta who fish this way.
Neoprene waders are a must in cold 5 mil is a good start if you're going out in the early spring. Boots and flippers will also be needed. These waders are also great if you're walking in the flood areas when the pike are spawning.\
First Aid Kit - take a good one along with you. Its better to be safe and prepared than not. I have yet to go north and not have to use it. If you have prescription drugs make sure they go with you, always make sure you have enough to cover your trip. If you have allergies make sure your fishing partners are aware of them so that if there is an emergency they can notify the medical personal, as an accident can happen to anyone. Where we fish up north we are 3 hours drive from the nearest medical center and about 15 miles up the lake. It's a long way to go if someone is hurt and we have made it a habit to carry a good kit in our boats.