On the Workbench... |
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Revell AG McLaren MP4/20 |
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Originally I was going to build the McLaren MP4/20B test version in the McLaren Orange using Tabu Design's decals, but... I have since decided to build the regular season MP4/20 car in the striking black/silver and white livery. Revell AG's MP4/20 was originally going to be released as the MP4/19, but for whatever reason, the model was released as the MP4/20. As a result of this, some inaccuracies occurred. For example, the front suspension, in particular the lower wishbone, is based on the MP4/19. Once the model is completed, only the expert eye will be able to notice this...so I will not change it. I won't be going too crazy on this build, but of course, in the usual Attridge style, it will not be box stock!!! On to the build... |
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Part I |
Part II |
Part III |
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Although
the Studio 27 Grade Up Parts are awesome, I will not be using all of the
parts. The rear wing endplates are very nice, but they're too thin. When
you look at the real car, the wing endplates are thicker, so I'll use
the Revell parts. |
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At this point, I have already applied the silver paint... so I will back up a bit! The lower portions of the side pods (parts 23 & 24) have been molded into the main body for a seamless fit using Tamiya Putty, as per the real car. The engine air intake halves (parts 21 & 22) were also seamlessly joined together and to the main cowl. I added the S27 aero parts, the little deflectors on either side of the cockpit and the "endplates" on the outside edge of the rear wheel flip-ups! Every panel line was engraved deeper with "Scale Race Cars" awesome photoetch #11 Scriber Blades. I also used the "Bare Metal Foil" plastic engraving tool on some areas. |
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I cut
out the molded radiator face from the inside of the side pods. S27 provides
photoetch radiator faces. It would have been nearly impossible to insert
the S27 rads through the forward openings, as well, it makes painting
easier too. The parts can be added from the rear after the body is painted.
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The
body was cleaned, sanded and prepped for paint. I used Tamiya's Fine Surface
Primer (white) straight from the spray can. Further irregularities were
fixed and sanded; and another thicker coat of primer was applied. I decided
to try Tamiya's TS-30 Silver Leaf for the silver colour. After the paint
was sprayed on, it was a little on the bright side, but I knew that the
clear would calm the silver down, which indeed it did! Since TS-30 is
not a gloss paint, I went ahead and airbrushed on two coats of Finisher's
"Auto Clear" so that any handling of the model would not ruin
the silver paint. The clear will also protect the silver when the masking
is applied to spray Finisher's "West Black". The silver/clear
finish is not totally polished out yet, I will polish out the final clear
coats once the "West Black" is on. I haven't decided yet if
I will clear coat the decals. |
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Here's
a close-up of the body. The arrows indicate the Studio 27 photoetch parts.
Like I mentioned, the paint is not perfect...Yet! The panel lines will
be darkened after the decals are applied. |
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I have
purchased Kyosho Mini-Z F1 tires for other Revell AG Formula One models,
but I think that I will use them to replace the Revell tires for this
MP4/20. From the left, the Revell rear tire (stock), next to it, the Revell
rear tire that has been spun on my Dremel and sanded. Then the Kyosho
rear tire (stock) and next to it, the Kyosho rear tire that has been spun
on my Dremel and sanded. The stock Kyosho tires have too much of a square
edge. The Kyosho tires are fractionally wider and the diameter is nearly
identical to the Revell tires. Also, the Kyosho grooves are spaced more
like the actual tires. The Revell tires are much like vinyl and are way
too glossy. The Revell rims fit into the Kyosho tires perfectly. Count
up the pros and cons and the Kyosho tires come out ahead. |
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An example
of what the MP4/20's real rear tire looks like for comparison. |
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This
is what the Kyosho packaging looks like. If you are going to order these
replacement tires, be careful, the packages comes in fronts only(4 each),
rears only (4 each)or two of each. |
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Without
changing the "spacer" on the inside of the rear wheels, the
tires would sit too far out. With my Dremel, I simply grinded down the
back of the rear wheels and test fitted until I was satisfied with the
positioning of the rear tires. As a result, the outer most rear suspension
actually sits within the rear wheel as opposed to be being exposed as
shown below. |
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PART II |
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