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Part I |
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Cleaning
up the body was the first item to be tackled, i.e., mold lines, flash
etc. The white metal cowl extensions had to be perfectly molded into the
resin body. CA glue was used for filling the seams. My main reference
for the EJ10 is F1 Modeling Magazine, Volumes 6, 7 & 9. |
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The
front wing is cleaned up and test fitted to achieve the proper wing height.
The uprights are cast way too long, so they have to be trimmed down flush
to the underside of the main plane of the front wing. The uprights do
not have to be molded into the body, my reference shows that they are
actually bolted on to the nose cone. |
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The
bodywork is complete and checked with a coat of automotive grey primer.
Imperfections are resanded to perfection and I slightly deepened the panel
lines. |
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Curiously,
Treasure Hunt does not provide any exhaust detail other than the indentation
on the rear of the cowl. I drilled out the exhaust opening and fabricated
the exhaust pipes out of aluminum rod. I thinned the aluminum openings
to scale thickness. |
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Another
view of the exhaust and the bodywork. |
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I used
Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (White) straight out the can...So far so good. |
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HINT: To maintain more control
from a spray can, I highly recommend buying this spray can handle/trigger.
Most hardware stores stock this item for only a couple of bucks. |
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The
extra work involved to ensure the necessary bodywork is seamless is well
worth it in the end. |
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Every part that will be painted
yellow is now primed and ready for some colour.
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The
base coat of Fluorescent Yellow is airbrushed on. I used Pactra Racing
Finish R/C bottle paint (RC79E), this paint matches the kit's decals perfectly.
It goes on dull though, so it must be followed up with several coats of
clear. |
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This
photo was taken moments after the second coat of clear was applied. I
used Finisher's Clear, which is from Japan. |
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Depression
has set in...After I polished the clear coat with 3600 grit cloth, the
finish turned quite blotchy for some reason. I applied another coat of
yellow to try to even the finish, but the yellow is too transparent, so
the blemishes were still present. The EJ10 is now sitting in a Tupperware
bin soaking in oven cleaner!!! I will strip the paint off back to resin
and start over....%$#@&! |
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Well, the Jordan is now "back on track"
and had been stripped down to resin and repainted, although, my method
of painting changed this time around. This time I used an initial coat
of grey Motomaster (Canadian Tire) primer, then Krylon white sandable
primer that would be the base coat for the next colour of paint. Upon
recommendation from a fellow member of GPMA, I then applied a few coats
of ColourPlace (Walmart) white lacquer to act as a good solid base coat
for the yellow. After the white coat had cured, it was polished smooth
with Detail Master 4000 grit polishing cloth. The first time this car
was painted I used Pactra Fluorescent Yellow from a bottle and airbrushed
it on...This time, I elected to use the same paint, except straight
from a spray can (RC279E). I heated the can prior to application and
the result was a very smooth, solid colour coat, although this paint
still dries fairly dull. The important point to remember is that you
can NOT touch this paint, it needs to be clear coated right away. This
time I used clear lacquer paint from Home Hardware (a Canadian hardware
store) also straight from a heated can.
Normally I use my Aztek or Paasche airbrush to
paint all parts, especially exterior bodies, but I went against my belief
that a decent paint job had to be airbrushed on and proceeded to paint
this Jordan completely with spray cans! The overall finish turned out
very good, but I also used my polishing kit all the way up to 12000
grit to perfect the finish.
The above photo shows that I quickly masked around
the exhaust outlet dimples and I airbrushed Tamiya's X-31 Titanium Gold
Enamel (not the regular Acrylic paint). There is a photoetch surround
that will be carbon fibered and placed over the exhaust outlets.
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Prior
to applying the decals, I masked the Jordan body so that the underside
of the nose, cockpit and rear underside could be airbrushed with Tamiya
X-18 Semi-Gloss Black (acrylic). The black on the underside of the nose
was then sealed with a mixture of Testor's Dullcoat and Glosscoat lacquer.
This lacquer is not hot, so yes, it can be applied over the Tamiya acrylic
paint! After the masking was removed, any over spray and/or imperfections
were carefully cleaned up with toothpicks dipped in Novus #2 polish. |
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The
Treasure Hunt decals are exceptionally easy to apply and respond very
good to decal solvents (I used Solvaset and Mr. Mark Softer). I will wait
to decal the sides of the sidepods and nose so that I can safely handle
the model without fear of causing damage to the decals while I continue
to build the Jordan. I will not clear over the decals as they are semi-gloss
(almost dull) and this will be accurate to the full size Jordan. |
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