Thanks to Jim Cash for the following Isobarik/Kan field guide.

                                                         Tony's Kan                                                                                                  Jez's Brik

Linn Isobarik/Kan Field Guide

>Remove the hot melt (peeling off sometimes works) and then the bolts.

>Using an M8x1.25 tap, tap a thread into the top left mounting hole.

>Screw in M8x1.25 (35 mm long) machine screw.

>Using a 'claw hammer' and a piece of cardboard or wood to protect the cabinet, gently pry up on the bolt. 'Don't force it!' If it doesn't come out the first time, try the same thing on the top right hole. Alternate back and forth until the stubborn driver releases itself from the cabinet.

>Now that its out, be sure to make note of where the red (+) wire goes (Writing it on paper helps me) Its a good time to compare the old unit with the new one for a proper '+' reference.

>Remove wire from bass unit. If they're long enough, grab your wire cutters and snip as close as possible. If not long enough, get your soldering gun (50 watt or better) and desolder the wires.

>Carefully remove old silicone. A flat bladed screwdriver works best and is less likely to damage the cabinet.

>Tin wires (or re-tin if you desoldered) and solder them onto the unit.

>Loosely twist the wires to the unit, i.e. rotate speaker once or so

>Apply a bead of silicone, ensuring there is enough for an air-tight seal. You can wipe off excess later.

>You're now ready to install your new B139. Place it in its 'hole' and gently bring all the screws up evenly before tightening. Do a final tighten. (not too much as damage can occur to front plate) BTW when starting bolts be careful not to push the T-nuts into the cabinet.

>Clean the excess sealer and wipe area with clean cloth.

>Reapply hot melt to the heads of the bolts as before.

>>Enjoy the music....again.

This same basic procedure can be used on the mids and tweets (a.k.a. Kans). (No need to tap the holes, though.) The mid/bass drivers can be removed with a 6M bolt and the tweeters via a 5M. In most cases the bolt itself will break the seal as you turn it.

Remember the motto: Don't force it!

This should eliminate trying to "pry" the driver out with a knife/screwdriver and also the risk of front plate damage.

                                                     From issue 2 of The Flat Response. Thanks to Rob Holt.