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In the summer of 2003, I was an invited artist at the Macsabal International Woodfire Festival 2003 in Joryung, Korea. |
| I decided not to limit my trip to
the festival which lasted 11 days, but to include an exploration of Seoul, Ichon
and many pottery sites in Korea. Although Carol and I were both invited to
attend the Macsabal Woodfire Festival 2003, Carol elected to stay home for
health reasons and also because of a planned trip to Australia in 2004. After spending 16 days in Korea, I returned to Japan where Carol and I had been invited artists at the Aomori International Woodfire Festival in 2002. I spent 14 days working with Ryoji Matsumiya at his Kanayama pottery studio in Goshogawara-shi, Aomori-ken, Japan. This is a pictorial account of my month long adventure in Korea and Japan. I wish to thank the Alberta Foundation of the Arts and the Edmonton Arts Council for their financial support, a project grant from the AFA and a travel grant from the Arts Council. |
| This sixth year of the festival
was attended by seven international artists from Canada, the U.S.A., Greece and
Phillipines. There were over twenty-five Korean artists invited as well. Kim
Yong Moon and a dedicated committee of volunteers organized this multi-cultural
festival which included not only clay, but other traditional Korean crafts and
music performances. The festival lasted for ten wonderful days; during which
time we made work, fired the wood kiln, attended our show opening in Seoul,
complete with a large musical public concert and enjoyed delicious Korean food
and drink the whole ten days. |
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Kim Yong Moon, shown throwing tea bowls in Goshogawara in 2002, hosted the Macsabal Woodfired Festival 2003 in Korea. |
Moon leading me through the side streets of Seoul before the festival starts. |
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Seoul is a modern city with interesting architecture, new cars and everyone has a cell phone |
Moon, with his works in his gallery in Insidon in Seoul, South Korea |
I flew from Edmonton to Narita, Japan and then the next day flew to Inchon, Korea and was met by Park Kook Hyun who we had worked with in Japan. He took me to Seoul where I spent two days looking at this city of markets, galleries and a thriving 20 million population. |
| After a first introduction to
Korean food and rice wine, "makalai", I slept a jet-lagged night and
was ready to explore Seoul. Moon showed me his gallery. We had a great lunch
with two gallery owners and Park Soon Kwan, a paddle pot master that we had met
in Iowa City, Iowa in 1999 and worked with in Japan in 2002. After lunch, Park
took me to his studio in Hanam on the edge of Seoul for a fantastic viewing of
his large onggi collection, his work and kilns. |
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| Park Soon Kwan working on a
paddle pot in
Goshogawara, Japan in 2002. |
Panorama of a part of the onggi
collection in the brickyard of Park's father. |
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Onggi in Park Soon Kwan's huge collection |
Paddled teapot in Park Soon Kwan's studio. |
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Park's woodfired teabowl in our collection, traded for one of ours. |
Park's anagama type kiln. |
| After the tour of his studio and
tea, we returned to Seoul on the subway where Park helped me with some antique
pottery shopping. |
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The onggi often have a plate/bowl type lid and they are used as storage vessels and for making kimchi, the traditional cabbage pickle. |
Park Soon-Kwan's anagama kiln outside Seoul. |
| I spent an amazing colleagual
afternoon with Park, discovering the depth of his knowledge of tea, our many
mutual Japanese and Korean colleagues and sharing our thoughts about making
ceramic art. We were able to understand each other despite my complete lack of
Korean and his limited English. |
| Among his many skills, Park is a
competitive arobatic ski jumper. Last year he had a bad fall and broke both
legs. He has barely slowed down and says he will jump again. |
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| A small part of Park's collection
of Japanese and Korean teabowls. |
Tea and cakes in the studio. |
| Park Soon-Kwan has a tea group
where he teaches Korean, Chinese and Japanese tea ceremony. Cheon Han-Bong's
daughter attends this tea group and this association allowed us access to this
Korean National Treasure. |
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| Onggi pots in the brickyard. |
The Master Potter, Cheon Han-Bong
talking to Kirk Mangus and Park Soon Kwan at his kiln shed in Mungyung Pottery. |
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| Fresh gingseng in the market,
which finds its way into many Korean delicacies, including candy and some
makalai. |
Women selling fresh fruit on the
sidewalk. |
| My second day in Seoul was spent
cruising the markets and visiting art galleries and antique and contemporary
pottery galleries. The variety of handmade pottery, textiles and masks was
astounding. |
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| A man tending his aloe display in
the market. |
Picasso painting in the gallery
building of Moon's gallery in Seoul. |
| A rich Korean collector had
mounted an impressive showing of his Picasso etchings, paintings and drawings.
There were at least one hundred pieces on display. |
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| Impromptu fish barbeque in the
market. |
Fresh flowers on the sidewalk of
a busy Seoul street. |
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| Pepper field in Chungbuk. Red
and green peppers, a big and hot part of the kimchi, are raised on the farmland
around the festival site. |
In the market, I saw about fifty
different kinds of kimchi. |
| After the bustle of Seoul, we
made the two and one half hour trip through the Korean countryside to the
mountains and Joryung, the site of the Macsabal festival. |
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A group of the festival artists on the trip to the temple site. |
Kirk Mangus, Moon, Peggy, Christos, Hadrian, Michael Osborne and Park Je-Duck relaxing during a break. |
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| The double chimney of Moon's kiln
in Joryung. |
The festival site buildings in
the foreground and our hotel (maybe "love hotel" in winter) in the
distance. |
| I made considerable preparations
before the trip, bringing many o-myagi (gifts which signify meeting) as well as
two works for an exhibition at the festival. A wonderful colour catalogue was
awaiting us when we arrived with the images of every participant's work. |
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| Rice field on the way to the
provincial capital. |
Peggy Bjerkan (U.S.A.), Michael
Osborne (Canada) and Christos Tsimbourlas (Greece- looking a bit like Zorba) are
at work in the hot July Korean sun. |
| Mask maker Peggy Bjerkan and I were at the
festival site the day before the official opening so Moon took us to visit the
local mayor and to the provincial capital to meet the "president" to
drum up future support for the festival. |
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| Kirk Mangus drawing on his
sculptures. |
Footed woodfired cup from the
first festival firing in our collection by Kirk Mangus. |
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| Woo Sung-Bo forming a paddle pot
in Goshogawara in 2002. |
Woo talking on his cell phone
while working on two large paddle pots at the festival. |
| The ten days of the festival flew
by with many activities, discussions and work with my wonderful international
colleagues. |
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| Rice in the Korean countryside in
July. |
Park Soon-Kwan, Choi Suk-Jin with
Park Kuk-Hyun in the background. |
| Because of the heat, we stayed
hydrated with refreshments from the festival kitchen adjacent to the studio
area. The melons were in season as well as delicious corn from the surrounding
countryside. |
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| From the right, Myung Ji Hye,
Hadrian, Christos and Michael Osborne. |
One of the many river vistas in
the Korean mountains. |
| We ate our meals, prepared by the volunteers, in the outdoor studio
area. It was very informal and a great time for cultural sharing. |
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| Hadrian Mendoza works on his
bamboo vessels with traditional fish sculpture by Kim Won-Joo in foreground. |
One of the volunteers working in
the outdoor kitchen, preparing rice for our large group. |
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| Kirk Mangus working on one of his
"demented lady" drawings. |
Rice field in the mountains in
July. |
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| One of my bowls in the outdoor
throwing area. We had to watch out for the summer rains and their devastating
effect on pots left unattended. |
Korean rock band performing in
the evening. |
| The generousity and helpfulness
of the Korean hosts and volunteers was incredible. |
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| Seong Jai Maeng observes Park
Kuk-Hyun making onggi. |
Daikotu figure on rice bags, gift
carving by Seong Jai Maeng our impromptu barbeque chef for the festival. |
| One afternoon, Cheon Han-Bong and
his apprentice came to the festival site and showed us an incredible display of
throwing traditional Korean forms. |
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| Cheon Han-Bong, Korean master
potter, making tea bowls. |
Woodfired tea bowl in our
collection by Cheon Han-Bong. |
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| "Cow's tongue" wooden
rib used for forming tea bowls. |
Cross section of Cheon Han-Bong
tea bowl, showing compressed foot area detail. |
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| Cheon Han-Bong throwing bottle
form. |
Stacks of traditional Korean
onggi. |
| The Korean occupation and the
Korean war had a serious impact on much traditional pottery production. Since
the Korean war much household pottery, except onggi, was replaced by stainless
steel. Cheon Han-Bong studied traditional pottery and kiln sites, long ago
abandoned, and learned to make the kind of work which the Korean potters
(kidnapped by the Japanese in the Momoyama period) had made in Japan. This kind
of "peasant"rice bowl continues to be valued by the tea masters in
Japan. |
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| Traditional Korean bottle
forming. |
Necking in the bottle form. |
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| Finished bottle form. |
Gallery with traditional Korean
bottles in foreground at Cheon Han-Bong's studio. |
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| Kiln doors at master potter's
studio. |
Traditional Korean kick wheel. |
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| Lee Sa-Ly, Kirk Mangus, Cheon
Han-Bong and Hadrian Mendoza in Han-Bong's kiln shed. |
Lee Sa-Ly working in the festival
studio that we shared in Joryung. |
| Lee Sa-Ly, who earned an MFA at
Iowa City, Iowa, was invaluable as a translator, both for our visit to Cheon
Han-Bong's studio and many other times during the festival. Her English, like
her work, is excellent. |
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| The mountain behind the pottery
with pine forest. |
Mountain view as the backdrop for
movie set. |
| Korean Broadcasting System has a
large movie set for a weekly serial, historical mongol drama near the town of
Mungyung. The festival participants were invited to tour the set and visit with
the Korean stars. |
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| KBS movie star painting on one of
the festival plates during photo op on their movie set. He is adding his marks
to my painting on the plate. |
Mongol soldiers on set during a
break in the shooting. |
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| Lee Sung-Han and his wife in
foreground in the courtyard of the palace movie set. |
Peggy and Lee Sa-Ly explore the
imperial palace on set. |
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| Kim Yong Moon "captured"
by a giant Canadian mongol warrior. |
Lee Sung-Han, his wife and
daughter pose with very famous Korean movie star. |
| It was very interesting to watch
my Korean colleagues and to learn traditional techniques and the way they
determine the finished work. |
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| Shin Dong-Yeo throwing the parts
for a tea set with mural in background. |
Wood fired teabowl from the first
festival firing by Shin Dong-Yeo in our collection. |
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| Forming a thrown and altered and
cut teapot spout. |
Shin making Korean teabowl to
complete set. |
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| Shin Dong-Yeo and Park Kuk-Hyun
throwing tea set parts. |
Park Kuk-Hyun cutting off thrown
teapot handle. |
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| Thrown lid, handle and spout
drying before assembly of tea pot. |
Fanciful frogs by Park Kuk-Hyun
in our collection. |
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| Kim Yong-Moon using shell rib to
form interior of teabowl. |
Moon's woodfired stoneware chawan
bowl in our collection |
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| Some of Moon's large pots and one
of his friendly guard dogs. |
Eighty-seven year old gentleman
making traditional shoes at the festival. |
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| Woo painting slip on onggi at the
festival. |
Woo working with paddle and anvil
on onggi at the festival. |
| Two of my Korean potter friends
from Goshogawara, Jeong Myung-Soo and Woo Sung-Bo, took me for a 200 km. drive
around Mount Woreksaan which included rivers and mountain vistas and Korean
camping. |
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| My friends exploring a Korean
river near the festival site. |
Mountain vista in the
countryside. |
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| River boulders and camping cars
in background. |
Onggi in park setting at Pangoh,
site of annual woodfire festival. |
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| Traditional wood kiln in Pangoh
where we visited on their annual woodfire festival day. |
A brief respite in cool mountain
river water with my Korean friends. |
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| Tea set from Pangoh potter in our
collection. |
Tea set maker under banner at
woodfired festival in Pangoh. |
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| Beautiful Korean woman serves us
tea in traditional Korean tea ceremony on the Pangoh festival grounds. |
"Koma Say Oh", she
pulls out her cell phone to take a call during the tea ceremony. |
| A few days after my trip around
the mountain, Woo and Jeong took me for a trip to Ichon, Korea's main pottery
production center. Carol and I had a majolica piece in the Korean biennal in
2001 and that piece is in the museum in Ichon. I wanted to see the museum and
some of the many pottery sites (400 kilns) in the Ichon area. Woo, who lives
and works there, agreed to take me to see his studio and the village of potters
where he lives. We began the day by driving about an hour and one half to Ichon
and had breakfast with his mother, brother and children in his family home. |
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| Mountains and rice fields near
Joryung, Korea. |
The tranquil stream which runs
through the property of Woo's old studio. |
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| Woo's mother with the delicious
brunch which she prepared for us. |
Pots in the studio of local
potter, Lee Eun-Koo. |
| Woo and Jeong took me on a
whirlwind shopping trip after we visited a couple of his neighbours potteries. |
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| Onggi in the front yard of a
pottery shop. |
Multi-chambered woodfired kiln at
Haegang museum in Ichon, Korea. |
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| Woo in his usual traditional
Korean attire in front of pottery galleries in his ceramic Korean folk art
village, Ilwol. |
Tea bowls in Ichon village
gallery. |
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| Institute of Haegang Koryo
Celadon founder's statue, Ichon, Korea. |
Teapot in the museum collection. |
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| Traditional incised celadon vase
in museum collection, Ichon, Korea. |
Kiln area in museum yard. |
| After the closing session of the
Korean Macsabal Festival, I had an extra day before my plane left Inchon for
Japan. I thought I would make the 200 km. trip back to Seoul on Sunday for some
shopping and museums. My hosts warned me that Sunday was not a good day to
travel back to Seoul because of the "camping people". It seems this
trip, that usually takes under 3 hours on some excellent freeways, takes 7 hours
or more because of the weekend campers returning from the mountains to
metropolitan Seoul. |
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| Wooden fish sculptures in the
yard of Park Kuk-Hyun's former apprentice. |
Park Kuk-Hyun and his wife visit
wife of his former apprentice at their kiln in Pangoh, Korea. |
| My friend Park Kuk-Hyun took me
instead for another scenic tour and to his home in Wonju-City where we had
barbeque and the next morning, he drove me to Inchon with no traffic problems. |
| I have seen some of the pictures
of the finished works fron the festival fired in Moon's kiln. Although in some
cases the results are not what I expected, the experience in Korea was
unforgettable. |
| I returned to Aomori, Japan to
work for two weeks at the Kanayama Pottery in Goshogawara. Ryoji Matsumiya, who
organized the 2002 International Woodfired Festival, in which Carol and I were
invited participants, invited me to work at the new artist residency facility at
his pottery. When I arrived, the Nebuta Festival was happening in the evenings
and the firing of the new Olson kiln, which had been built the previous month
had just been unloaded the week before. |
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| 25 metre tall illuminated nebuta
lantern sculptures were carried through the streets of Goshogawara. |
Ryoji giving the O.K. sign in
his sports car at the train station in Goshogawara. |
| As I was the only visiting artist
during this time, Ryoji and I worked together in the new studio sharing
techniques and ideas. It was a very productive time for both of us. |
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Kanayama gallery showroom. |
Introduction of charcoal to give the traditional Bizen effects at Kanayama. |
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| A soba-ya restaurant was a quick
place for dinner before viewing the evening fireworks during the Obon time. |
One of Ryoji's "toys"
used for moving wood and building new kiln sites. |
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One of Ryoji's three noborigama kilns at Kanayama fired for five to six days with red pine found near Goshogawara. |
A view of the new workshop studio
for international visiting artists. |
| Obon is a time when Buddhists
visit their ancestral grave sites, leaving offerings in remembrance of their
deceased relatives. I was privileged to go with Ryoji and his 87 year old
mother, as well his sister and cousins to the nearby village on the Japan sea
where he grew up. We left offerings in the graveyard outside and inside the
temple. |
| After making the Obon offerings
we went to the business of one of Ryoji's boyhood friends. At the seaside he
has a squid business which provided the best snack of my summer experience. |
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| Cuttlefish drying in the open
air, later to be barbequed for the best bar snack ever. |
Another view of the temple
garden. |
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| Barbequed squid on one of Ryoji's
Kanayama Pottery plates with mustard and mayonnaise sauce. |
Barbequing the tasty tender
squid. |
| Working with Ryoji was a
wonderful learning of throwing traditional Japanese pottery forms while I showed
him the trompe l' oeil and stencil work Carol and I have developed in Canada. |
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| Freshly thrown forms at Ryoji's
wheel. |
Some of the flattened work I made
during my artist residency. |
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| Ryoji working on one of his large
slab constructions. |
Ryoji's wife, Mytfyko and I watch
him joining the slabs of his large sculpture. |
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| Ryoji and his firing crew with
wood ready to stoke in one of the three climbing kilns. |
Logs delivered to the pottery
awaiting cutting and splitting for the firing. |
| Kanayama Pottery was a great
place to work because I had a chance to observe and interact with Ryoji's 20
employees who kept the cycle of work going. There was always at least one kiln
firing and usually one being loaded and one being unloaded and the work prepared
for sale. |
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| The climbing kiln with the
charcoal stoke hole bricks in place. |
Two of the workers unloading the
kiln. |
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| The stoke hole in the firebox of
the climbing kiln. |
These women are brought in to
clean and sand the woodfired ware when the kiln is unloaded. |
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| Bottles turned upside down
awaiting trimming. |
Jang mi hwa, a young Korean
apprentice, trimming production ware bottles in the studio that she shared with
us. |
| I was able to study many of
Ryoji's finished works as well as the production work from the pottery to better
understand the effects of the natural ash glazes from the Bizen-style firing
with added charcoal. |
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| Traditional flower vase by Ryoji
Matsumiya. |
Traditional flower vase with
shell markings and natural ash glaze effects by Ryoji Matsumiya. |
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| Ryoji behind one of the large
plates we made together. |
Traditional bamboo flower basket
which I made after Ryoji's demonstration. |
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| Tea ceremony water jar by Ryoji
Matsumiya. |
Basket for floral arrangement by
Ryoji Matsumiya. |
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| A mix of my residency work shows
traditional Japanese forms and our signature flattened and stenciled work. |
Close-up view of tsubo vases
drying before firing. |
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| One of Ryoji's basket forms from
the firebox of the anagama. |
A basket form that Ryoji made to
teach me the technique. |
| The residency was not only about
making, but truly a cross-cultural experience sampling food, antiques, language
and celebrations. |
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| The Matsumiyas treat me to a
sushi train in Goshogawara. |
This couple, owners of an antique
store, showed me numerous treasured antiquities over tea. I couldn't leave
without some of them. |
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| Rabbit pedestal plate in the
studio. |
Flattened forms await firing. |
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| Ryoji's demonstration bamboo
basket form. |
Ryoji detailing bamboo on basket
handle. |
| My one month adventure in Asia
came to a close after a visit to my ceramic colleague and friend, Hiroshi
Ikehata, in Sakudaiera. I wish to again thank the Alberta Foundation of the
Arts and the Edmonton Arts Council for their financial support, a project grant
from the AFA and a travel grant from the Arts Council. Without this kind of
support, it is quite difficult for full time artists like ourselves to
experience these cultural exchanges. |