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Big Sky Country
Montana and the Inland
Northwest It's a name usually reserved for the state of Montana but it
could equally be applied to the wide open spaces between the
Cascade and Rocky Mountain ranges. Despite being the home
of Glacier National Park, large swaths of ice are few and far
between. What this landscape features is long wind swept
ridges and an abundance of large mammals.
Right: The buffalo
paddock at Waterton National Park
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Waterton Lakes National Park
The stark beauty of this Canadian park, is similar to
Montana's Glacier National Park as they both share a common border.
The most popular hike in this park leads to Crypt Lake. It's memorable for
many unusual trail features including a water taxi, a 60ft ladder and a
tunnel. There are also four big waterfalls, a moderately exposed cliff
traverse (with safety cable) and the lake itself. 10.8 miles
return, 2263ft gain
Left: Glacier National Park
from Akamina Ridge
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For pure scenic value our favourite was an off trail scramble along Akamina Ridge
"From
Forum Lake you scramble up the ridge and follow it all the way to
the far side
of Wall Lake. Akamina Ridge has sweeping views of both Glacier
and
Waterton parks and has winds that will literally sweep you off your
feet.
Judging from the dune like mounds of scree and the complete lack of
vegetation one would think these winds are pretty constant."
11.3 mile loop, 3230ft gain
Right: Wall
Lake
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The other hike we really enjoyed was Lineham
Ridge "We had an audience of big horn sheep
watching us as we made our way up to the top of the
ridge.
In addition to expansive views that included Lineham Lakes
the rock
itself is stained red and bears the scars of being submerged
beneath the
ocean eons ago." 10.7
miles return 3150ft gain Left:
Lineham Lakes |
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Glacier
National Park
A true hikers park, our attempts to explore this
wondrous area has been thwarted multiple times by poor
weather. While St. Mary's Falls is nice (2.4
miles return, 260ft loss) the scenery demands
sunshine.
Below: Breakfast along the
Going to the Sun Road |
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Our one alpine hike was one of the most popular in
the park, the one to Upper Grinnel Lake and the Grinnell Glacier.
"Soon after we paid the $10 entrance fee for Glacier National
Park the sky really opened up and we were deluged with
rain. After
a long discussion we decided to make the most of it and
hike a
short way to Lake Josephine. Along the way things improved
slightly so we continued on to Upper Grinnel Lake (right).
When we first arrived at the lake it was completely socked
in so
we had lunch and waited to see if things got better.
It did
clear somewhat and we were able to take some pictures
unfortunately we
didn't have all our lenses and no polarizer." 7.6
Miles return, 1840ft gain
Left: Upper Grinnel Lake |
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The premier hike in this park is the Highline Trail, it follows the
famous Garden Wall for 7.6 miles gaining only 200ft from the trailhead
at Logan Pass where it converges with the other core park trails at the
Granite Park Chalet. Thanks to the shuttle system available in the
park, one way hikes are preferred. The quickest exit is four miles
down to the loop, a drop of 2200ft. The alternative is a 7.5 mile,
2300ft drop off Swiftcurrent Pass to Many Glacier. Swiftcurrent
Mountain is the apex of the hike, an easy 700ft scramble from the pass.
The other classic shuttle hike features Siyeh Pass, the highest in
the park, and Preston Park, a famous ursine playground. Starting at
the Piegan Pass trailhead it gains 2240ft, and loses 3440ft, however the
advantage to starting from Sunrift Gorge is that the scenery appears
more dramatic from this angle.
As far as destinations worthy of traditionally out and back hikes,
the most interesting on leads from Many Glacier to the Ptarmigan Tunnel,
10.6 miles return, 2300ft. Iceberg Lake is a 4.2 mile side trail
along this route. On its own its 9.6 miles
1200ft. The popular Cracker Lake trail starts from the Many
Glacier area as well, however its a horse trail and might be bettered
enjoyed from the heights of Siyeh Pass instead. 12.2
miles return, 1400ft
One alternative to the core area is the Gunsight Pass, Glacier
Basin, Comeau Pass alpine area near Lake McDonald. Its 24 miles
total, or a minimum 19 mile one way journey if the side trail to Comeau Pass
is skipped. Its 3300ft gain to the Sperry Chalet
and an additional 1600ft for Comeau Pass.
At Two Medicine Lake, in the quiet southeast corner of the park, there
is a 19 mile loop that crosses both Pitamakan Pass and Dawson Pass
either of which gains 2500ft.
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Idaho
The only national park in Idaho is Craters of the Moon.
The park features lava fields a couple of lava tubes, very
comparable to similar stuff in Washington, Oregon and
California. For cave enthusiasts Lewis and Clark Caverns
State Park near Cardwell Montana is far more interesting.
Shoshone Falls would be a marvel but nearly all the
water has been diverted elsewhere so most of the year the falls
are barely a trickle.
The prime
hiking is in the Sawtooths, near Stanley Idaho. Sawtooth
Lake is the most popular destination. 10 miles return,
1720ft.
Left: Lewis and Clark Caverns
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Eastern
Washington
East of the Cascade crest is a vast and largely
featureless plain of of semi-arid pastureland. 180ft Palouse
Falls stands out but nothing else can seriously be seen as a
destination to someone who lives farther away than Seattle.
Even residents of Puget Sound only venture here early in the
season when the temperatures are reasonable and the Cascades are
snowed in.
One thing special about Eastern Washington is
an abundance of unique wildlife. During the winter months
hundreds of elk and big horn sheep can be seen and
photographed up close at the Cleman Mountain feeding station in
the Oak Creek Wildlife Area near Natches. There is also
good spring birding found east of the crest, especial during the
month of May.
Right: A big horn sheep at the
Cleman Mountain feeding station.
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Eastern
Oregon
The
Wallowa Mountains closely resemble the Sierras in California and
even have a Half-Dome like monolith called Eagle Cap as a
prominent feature. The Lakes Basin loop samples the best of the area in the shortest possible circuit,
entering and exiting via the West Fork Wallowa River. The scenery
culminates with the ascent of Glacier Pass where you spy
spectacular Glacier Lake
The other popular alternative is
to take the East Fork Lostine River to marvelous Mirror Lake
From there you have
the choice of going to either Glacier Pass or climbing
Eagle Cap itself.
Left: Eagle Cap and Mirror Lake
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Eagle Cap
Wilderness
Totals:
Lakes Basin Loop from Wallowa Lake,
29
miles 3794ft gain.
Mirror Lake from Two Pan Trailhead,
14.6 miles return, 2034ft gain.
Summit of Eagle Cap 5.4
miles return from Mirror Lake, 1953ft additional gain
Right: Moccasin Lake
Left:
Frazier Lake
Below: Glacier Lake |  |
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