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Mojave
Desert
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This is the highest in elevation of the four deserts in the
American Southwest. The boundaries are loosely defined but
is generally considered to include Southern California, parts of
Western Arizona and the area around Las Vegas Nevada.
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Top of Page and right: Valley of Fire
State Park, Nevada |
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The most obvious symbol of the Mojave Desert is the Joshua
Tree, a unique plant that is found nowhere else in the
world.
The most striking feature is the Kelso Dunes, a 45
square mile dune field found in the Mojave National Preserve.
Our first hand experience though is limited to the two big
national parks. |
| Left: A Joshua Tree at Red Rock Canyon National
Conservation Area, Nevada |
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Death Valley National Park |
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The best place to take a photograph in the
park is at the Racetrack Playa, a dry lake with the famous
sailing stones. Its in a remote section of the
park and requires at the very least a high clearance vehicle and preferably a
4WD. The park's main
attraction is not photogenic, its Badwater, a vast salt flat that at -282
feet is
the lowest spot in the Western Hemisphere. Its also not far
from the high point of the park, 11,049ft Telescope Peak.
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| Right: The Devil's Golf Course,
a vast
field of rock salt that has eroded into innumerable jagged
little spikes, located near Badwater. |
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The Rangers made noise about needing a 4WD to get to the
Mahogany Flat trailhead which would have meant hiking the last
1.6 mile of road (each way) however we persisted, and despite
having a sub-compact for a rental car, we made it the entire
distance. Hiking Totals: 14 miles return,
2916ft gain
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| "Despite gaining nearly 3000ft of
elevation the trail was moderately graded and we made good time covering
the seven miles
in about three and a half-hours. We didn't encounter snow until
the last half mile and then it was more of a nuisance than a real
hazard.
The view from the summit was vast and somewhat hazy with dull
brown desert as far as the eye could see. The only trees ironically were
the ones along the mountain
ridges, including ancient bristlecone Pines." |
| Camping at Mahogany Flat was very pleasant, cool temps, and
the trees provided much needed shelter. |
| Left: First view of Telescope Peak from
the trail |
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| Camping at
Furnace Creek Campground was brutal. There is a private campground
there but it doesn't allow tents. Thus the swimming pool
is off limits to anyone without an RV. They do offer
expensive pay showers but only during a brief time window in the
afternoon.
The park service campground is little more than a gravel
parking lot. The wind
here was wickedly hot and relentless, permanently bending our tent poles
and scattering pieces of our gear out into the vast expanse of
the desert.
Needless to say we didn't do any hiking down in the
valley. Even in March daily temperatures are in the 80's,
and high winds mixed with sand is common.
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| Right: Popular roadside attraction,
Zabriskie Point |
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We eventually gave up on camping at Furnace
Creek and moved to
Stovepipe Wells. While still hot, the wind was manageable as long
as we didn't use a tent fly.
There were a few positives to the high
winds. All the particles of the sand in the air made for
an incredible sunset. The next morning, the
Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, a short distance from Hwy 190 near
Stovepipe Wells, were immaculate as the daily imprint of footprints
has all been erased.
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| Left:
Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes |
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Joshua Tree National Park
We went to Joshua Tree National Park in hopes of
catching the annual spring
bloom of the Joshua Trees, but we were too early for that
(March
14th 2001) and to make matters worse we were too late to
get an
established campsite. We had to camp in the backcountry,
basically
hiking in one mile and setting up a tent at least 500ft
off the
trail. While most desert plants are rather sharp,
here they
are spread out and the ground is perfectly level so it's
not all
that difficult to find a spot. |
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We hiked up Ryan Mountain which has some of the best views in the park, although a pollution generated haze makes everything look
dull. 3 miles return, 700ft
gain
The story of this park is the detail in
the desert plants
themselves. There is an
incredible variety of cacti which changes with the
elevation.
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| The southwest end of the park is at a lower
elevation and features Beavertails instead of Joshua
Trees. The reason is that part is actually part of the Colorado Desert, itself part of
the Sonoran Desert which covers much of Arizona. The
Sonoran Desert has a hotter climate and thus has its own unique flora
like the giant Organ Pipe Cacti and unique fauna like the rare Gila
Monster. In contrast the Great Basin Desert north of Las Vegas has
a cooler climate. The Chihuahuan Desert of New Mexico and West
Texas is yet another distinctive environment. |
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The best place to take a photo in Southern California is at
Antelope Valley during the spring poppy bloom. This preserve is just north of LA, near the town of
Pearblosson. The bloom varies wildly from year to year although the
peak is usually in mid-April.
This town is also the home of the Devil's Punchbowl, a small canyon
that is actually part of the San Andreas Fault. Interesting if you
are a geology buff or just want to see a bunch of small lizards.
It only takes a half hour to walk the loop trail.
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The area directly surrounding Los Angeles is mountainous, part of the
Peninsular Ranges. Several of the peaks are over ten thousand
feet. There are trails to the summit of all of them, none are all
that challenging and 10,834ft San
Jacinto even has a tram that lets you start your hike at at
8516ft. However they do hold snow in the winter, and even lesser
summits like Tahquitz
Peak, at 8,846, can have snow and ice in early
spring. Nearby Suicide Rock, 7528ft, is also popular with both
hikers and sport climbers.
Tahquitz
Peak via
Devil's Slide, 8.6 miles return, 2400ft gain Suicide
Rock via Deer Springs Trail, 7
miles return, 1700ft gain.
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Hiking to Suicide Rock:
"The trail was pleasant, no tree roots, no rocks, no mud and mostly in shade. The lookout was OK but kind of a tease since all you could see was Tahquitz Peak and that looked like a far more interesting hike"
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Right: Tahquitz Peak from Suicide Rock
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