The Red Lobster Journal for 1974

Golden Ears, Wedgemont Lake, Fissile, West Face of Needle, Diamond Head, Joffre Lakes Climbing School, Winter Camping

 

 


The Golden Ears

Alan Lizee and I did a day trip up the Ears and into the the clouds in April. On the summit we could only see about 10 meters. Having gone up so many times before and being able to leave a trail in the snow made it safe.

I remember Alan saying that his troubles seemed to blow away with the wind when he was on the mountain. I suspect many people feel that way.  




Wedgemont Lake - Garibaldi Park
Not long after I got back from my bus ride from Nepal to England, and my month long stay in Kent England, Lanny Martiniuk, Ken Willis, and I made a trip to the Wedgmont Lake hut. What I have found remarkable with this picture is its comparison with pictures taken thirty years later. Whereas the glacier front here is over ten meters high and right at the lake, now it has retreated a long way from the lake. All you have to do is Google "Wedgemont Lake" images and see the huge difference.
Fissile with Dad - Whistler/Blackcomb area

 

 Well, dad was born in 1918 and he got himself up Fissile at the age of , hmmm ... that would make him 56. Not bad at all I would say. Considering what being in the mountains have meant to me, it was a great privilege to be able to be with him on this trip.

The weather was great, and we spent two nights in the hut.

It is amazing what country you can get into with just easy scrambling skills. The view made up for our cloudy trip up the Golden Ears.
Wedgemont Lake
I took a trip to the hut at Wedgmont Lake by myself for some exercise, relaxation, and some reading. Things turned out quite well in that the weather wasn't too bad, and I had the hut to myself. On the negative side, the hut had a bit of a leak when it rained, and instead of white gas in my fuel container, I had turpentine! After a couple of nights of not so hot food, I went home for a hot meal. It was still a good trip.


 

Needle Point - Golden Ears Park - West Face Attempt

From a very young age, the Golden Ears had engraved its image on our minds, walking home north on what is now 256 St. N. The west face on Needle Point (Blanchard's Needle) stands out in profile, and had always created an image of something worth trying.

Ken Willis and I set out early in the summer to tackle the west face with a minimum of equipment and expertise. We found compact rock, dampness, bush, and a lack of time.

When we started our rappels, loose rock cut my near new rope, and we had our first rappel through a small waterfall. All told, an eventful attempt. Later, Garvin Morse and Alan Lizee had a go at it.

 



Diamond Head - Squamish

Lynn and I went with Dean and Laury Hewitt for a weekend hike to Diamond Head. I remember Dean's large blue panel truck with its four wheel drive chugging its way up to the parking lot with ease. That truck could go a lot of places!

Here Lynn perhaps is enjoying the fact that Dean's pipe smoke is keeping some of the bugs away!

We camped in the campsite adjacent to the chalet at Diamond Head and we hiked up to Little Diamond Head. They were wonderful company. Soon after they moved to Prince George we pretty much lost contact with them. I miss them.





Joffre Lakes - Climbing School with Roger Griffiths
I signed up for a climbing school run by Roger Griffiths in the summer of 1974. I learned new things and learned what I had been doing often wasn't a bad idea either. It was an enjoyable group.
We did some rock climbing, did an ice school with crevasse rescue, and did a climb of Rex's Pillar.



Winter Sleepover
Lynn and I decided that hiking up part way towards Battery Mountain and camping in the snow would be a good idea so we left our car at Mike Lake, hiked up through light snow and had a very comfortable night.

I find it interesting to see all the clothing styles, ground insulation, and tents that have changed over the years. I don't wear woolen knickers anymore. I don't have my Crestline Expedition tent that sags in the snow and rain, but a domed tent that maintains separation between tent and fly much better, and perhaps most importantly, I use a comfy Thermarest mattress for much better comfort during those long winter sleeps.