Stan and July Milosevic's

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Day 3 - Tuesday, May 6, 2003

Last night was rough. The ship really rocked back and forth. It was almost like a rollercoaster at times. We're up really early today. There are two excursions planned for today - Ephesus and Patmos. We have breakfast at 6:00 am in the restaurant and we all meet in the lounge at 6:50 am to get our various bus assignments for the excursion. There must have been a couple hundred people going on this one. There are 11 buses assigned and the World of Vacation people are bus 9 and 10. We get on the buses and meet our guide, Deyhan. Like most of our guides she is informative and entertaining. We take a 20 minute bus ride to Ephesus. At one time this whole area right up to Ephesus was under water. Ephesus was a coastal town but the area silted over and the water disappeared.

The Triton


Stan in Ancient Ephesus
The countryside is very nice. We arrive at Ephesus and get off the buses. Our guide goes to get all the tickets while we lounge around visiting the shops and vendors. One guy corrals me into his shop and wants to sell me an Alexander the Great coin for 50 euros. I don't know if the thing is real or if I'm being ripped off. He shows me some more "ancient" coins he has and is really pounding me to make a deal. The Alexander coin is now down to 20 euros. I back off. I later find out it's good luck for these guys to make a sale to the first person who walks into his shop on any given day. I guess I wasn't the rabbit's foot he wanted me to be. Our guide tells me later that the almost all of the "ancient" coins these guys try to sell and fake anyway. We get into the actual Ephesus site and are scheduled to be here for 2 hours. The place is huge and are the most impressive ruins we will see on the whole trip. We are especially thrilled because of the Biblical significance of Ephesus.

I spend most of my time away from the tour so I can get some decent pictures. It would have been nice on this trip if I could have had a lot more time to compose my shots but you're always on the move on this type of vacation. It's not a photographers vacation. Still, I do my best with the little time I have. We see most of the important highlights of Ephesus: Curetes Street, Temple of Hadrian, Fountain of Trajan, The Heracles Gate, The Odeon, The Great Theater, Harbor Street, The Library of Celsus, and others. The most impressive site of the whole trip. More impressive than the Parthenon in Athens? In many ways yes. The Parthenon is huge but in Ephesus you get an idea of how people lived and that always makes a bigger impression. We were thrilled to walk through the Great Theater where the apostle Paul was accosted. The tour was over too soon and we had to leave. On our way out was the first "Gauntlet of the Shopkeepers" we had to go through for this trip.

July in Ancient Ephesus


Stan in Ancient Ephesus
You know what I'm talking about. The spot in all the tourist areas where you're bombarded by many vendors and invited into their shop for the best deal, the almost free trinkets, and the just for you deals. We made it through safely, this time anyway. We head back to the buses for our next stop. But before we get there we see a camel to the side. Only 1 euro will get you on the camel for a photo. I send July onto the beast and I get a great photo. Back on the bus we take a drive back to Kusadasi, the port town. Once there was are ushered to a large room on the second floor of what looks like a high end jewelry store. Once we're all settled down we're served some excellent apple tea and presented with a lesson in how to buy Turkish carpets. It was very well done and we learned a lot about the methods and time it takes to make one of those carpets.

The display is over and they must have unfurled a hundred carpets for us. Now comes the sales crew. How would you like to own one of these works of art hand crafted by skilled artisans. Why, that 6' by 3' carpet looks lovely. How much for that small work of art? 6000 euros!!!! We quickly leave and find our way outside. Oh, look, another "Gauntlet of the Shopkeepers". One of the shop keepers manages to haul me upstairs to his shop through a maze of rooms to sell me a leather jacket for 80 euros. Sounds reasonable. I'll take a look. The crew puts a leather jacket on me and July. Nice ones too, made of soft leather. Not bad for 80 euros each. No wait. The team leader takes out a calculator and announces that these top of the line leather jackets will cost only 650 euros. A great deal. I bolt again. They think they can trap me in the maze of rooms but I find my way out and downstairs in 15 seconds with the team leader right behind me and the price dropping dramatically. We finally lose him. We buy some nice apple tea and tea sets along with some Turkish delight for a reasonable 15 euros and make our way back to the ship.

Stan and July in Ancient Ephesus


July and the camel
On our way back the leather salesman tracks me down and makes one last stab at it, both jackets for only 200 euros. By this time I'm turned off completely and just want to get away from the guy. Can't blame him for trying. Other than that guy this excursion was fantastic. Cost - 106 euros. We back aboard the ship (that boarding pass is important) about 11:00 am and have 90 minutes until lunch. We go up on deck, July to tan and myself to read. After a little while I go and take a nap until July gets me for lunch. At 3:15 we disembark for our next tour - Patmos. There is no port big enough on Patmos so we have to tender in to Skala on smaller boats. Soon enough we're on shore and on the bus. Our tour guide for this afternoon is Margerite. She's the daughter of a bigshot on the island. She does an excellent job of guiding. She sounds and talks like your listening to a touring tape. Sounds so cool. We're taken around the island and get some fantastic shots of the bay from on high.


We stopped a couple more times for scenic views too. Since Margerite is such an important person and we were such a nice tour group she is able to get us into the Grotto as part of the tour. The Grotto is a holy shrine to the Greeks so there are no shorts allowed there and the women have to have their shoulders covered. Here we are in shorts and muscle shirts. Fortunately, they have tops and bottoms available for heathens like us. The shirt fits July perfectly. However the pants are a bit small for me and only cover half of my bum. Thankfully my shirt covers the gap. I waddle down the forty or so steeps steps into the Grotto. The Monastery of the Apocalypse, containing the tiny chapel of "Saint" Anne, was built in 1090 to enclose the entrance of the grotto where tradition has it that the apostle John received his visions.

July in Patmos


Stan and Deyhan
We saw the place where John slept, wrote his Bible book, Revelation, and where he rested his hand to lift himself up from sleeping. We don't know if this is the actual place but if it is its pretty cool. There were a couple of Greek Orthodox priests in full regalia there to make sure we were properly dressed and didn't take any pictures. Oh well, if you wanted a photo of the Grotto they would gladly sell you one at the souvenir kiosk. We climbed back out of the Grotto and went back to our bus. We went to small cafe around the other side of the island and all had a free drink, which was very nice. On the way back from there Margerite did some Greek language lessons with us- Good Morning/Kalamera, Good Afternoon/Kalaspera, etc. Someone asked, "How do you say, 'Turn on the air conditioning on the bus, its 35C outside'" She translated "We're nearly at the end of the tour so you don't need air conditioning." We were dropped off at the center of Skala for some free walk around time.

We got some ice cream and went back to the pier to take the tender back. We got back on the ship by 6:30 pm. Patmos has so far escaped the tourist stampede that has nearly ruined other Greek islands. The main reasons are its lack of an airport and the monks' insistence that it remain largely a holy precinct. The island has a lot of natural beauty to offer. Cost of this excursion - 62 euros. We showered and changed and went to bar to play some cards. We ran into this honeymoon couple from Michigan and they wanted to play cards with us. We played Euchre for about 90 minutes. They just barely beat us and it was fun. We went to our 9:00 pm supper seating. Half way through the first course I get really seasick. I could feel every rise and fall of the ship. The couple we were sitting with gave me a Gravol and it nearly knocked me out. I guess the ouzo I had during cards made me sick. I couldn't finish supper and went right to cabin and to bed. July went to enjoy Greek night on the lounge deck while I was passed out. I can't tell you anything about it but apparently it was fun.

Greek Night


The Odeon was used for poetry-readings, small concerts and prize-giving ceremonies. In Hellenistic
times, theaters and odeons were as important as temples in the Fife of the people. Enjoyment for the
Romans meant food, games and spectacles. The cry of the decadent people for 'Bread and Circuses' is
witness to the countless mad spectacles that were provided. Built into the slope of the hill, it could
seat 2,200 people. The upper closed part of the building was entered by two side doors. The twenty-three
rows of seats were divided by a diazoma into two sections, thirteen below and ten above. The lower seats
seem to have been wider than those above. The highest part of the theater was decorated with Corinthian
columns made of red granite. The stage was not in fact very high but gave the impression of being richly
ornamented with inscriptions and carving. The Odeon was built during the second century by Publius Vedius
Antonius and his wife Flavia Papiana. Celebrations in the Odeon formed a large port of the festivals of
Artemis.


The Odeon


The city of Ephesus is located on the western coast of Turkey near the modern city of Selcuk
in the area known as Anatolia. Although today it is 10 km from the coast, in ancient times it was a
seacoast city with a busy commercial harbor, with a population of over 250,000 people. During
Roman times it had become the capital of the Province of Asia controlling over 500 Anatolian towns.
The great Temple of Artemis (Diana) at Ephesus was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World,
but most of what remains of this famous temple is housed in the British Museum today.

BIBLICAL SITE - It was to Ephesus, crossroads of the ancient world, that the apostle Paul, accompanied by Aquila and Priscilla, came, probably in 52 C.E. Paul immediately went to the Jewish synagogue to preach. However, although being requested to remain longer, the apostle left Ephesus, stating that he would return if it should be Jehovah's will. (Ac 18:18-21) Aquila and Priscilla, who remained in Ephesus, met Apollos, a Jew from Alexandria, Egypt, who was acquainted only with John's baptism, and they "expounded the way of God more correctly to him."-Ac 18:24-26.
When Paul returned to Ephesus, likely by the winter of 52/53 C.E., he found several men who had been baptized with John's baptism. Upon his clarifying the matter of baptism to them, they were rebaptized. (Ac 19:1-7) This time Paul taught in the Jewish synagogue for three months. But when opposition arose, he moved to the school auditorium of Tyrannus with those who had become believers; there he discoursed daily for two years. (Ac 19:8-10) In addition, Paul preached extensively from house to house.-Ac 20:20, 21.
Paul's preaching, attended by miraculous healings and the expelling of demons, caused many Ephesians to become believers. Also, the unsuccessful attempt at exorcising by the seven sons of a certain Jewish chief priest named Sceva stirred up much interest. Former practitioners of magical arts publicly burned their books, which had a combined value of 50,000 silver pieces (if denarii, $37,200). (Ac 19:11-20) Ephesus was so renowned for magical arts that Greek and Roman writers referred to books, or rolls, of magical formulas and incantations as "Ephesian writings."
Since many Ephesians had forsaken the worship of Artemis, the silversmith Demetrius pointed out to fellow craftsmen that Paul's preaching was a threat to their occupation and also endangered the worship of Artemis. Enraged silversmiths shouted: "Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!" The city was thrown into an uproar, climaxed by a two-hour riot at a theater capable of holding some 25,000 spectators.-Ac 19:23-41.
After this, Paul left Ephesus. Later, from Miletus he sent for the older men of the congregation at Ephesus, reviewed his own ministry in the district of Asia, and gave them instructions on caring for their duties. (Ac 20:1, 17-38) His reference on that occasion to "three years" spent at Ephesus should evidently be regarded as a round number.-Ac 20:31; compare Ac 19:8, 10.
With the passing of years, the Christians at Ephesus endured much. However, some did lose the love they had at first.-Re 2:1-6; - Insight on the Scriptures Volume 1, page 735


Temple of Hadrian was built between 117 and 138 A.D. by P.Quintilius, and dedicated to the emperor
of Roma. It measures 7.20 by 5 meters. The triangular pediment is supported by four Corinthian
columns. The middle two columns support a rounded arch which has as its keystone a bust of Cybele.
According to the Roman oracles, if it were possible to bring to Rome the sacred statue of Cybele
from Pessinus in Asia Minor, Rome would conquer Carthage. The statue was taken to Rome and in this
way, since Rome was victorious over Carthage, Cybele became the emblem of Rome and of Italy.
Inside the temple on the wall immediately opposite, there is a low relief of a Medusa keeping watch
with her fearful eves. On either side of the Medusa there is a frieze depicting gods, goddesses and
other mythological figures connected with the foundation of the city. There are still four pedestals
for statues outside the front of the building. The temple was built in the 2nd century A.D. but was
always in danger from earthquakes. It was repaired at a later date at which time the relief of gods
and goddesses was added.


Probably one of the most impressive buildings left from Roman times is the Library of Celsus and
the monumental Gate of Augustus to the right. Gaius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus was the Roman governor
of Asia Minor early in the 2nd century A.D. In 110, after the governor's death, his son, Consul
Gaius Julius Aquila, erected this library in his father's honour; as says an inscription in Latin
and Greek on the side of the building's front staircase. Celsus was buried under the west side of
the library, where he rests to this day. The library held 12,000 scrolls in niches around its walls.
A one meter gap between the library's inner and outer walls protected the valuable books from
extremes of temperature and humidity. Though it now stands alone, the library was originally built
between other buildings, and architectural sleight of hand was used to make it look bigger than it is:
the base of the facade is convex, adding height to the central elements; and the central columns and
capitals are larger than those at the ends. The niches on the facade held statues (now in Vienna's
Ephesus Museum) representing the Virtues: Arete (Goodness), Ennoia (Thought), Episteme (Knowledge),
and Sophia (Wisdom). The library was restored with the aid of the Austrian Archaeological Institute.


In the Celsus Library there was estimated to be 12,000 books, which made it one of the largest
library collections of the antiquity.


The Celsus Library in Ephesus.



BIBLICAL SITE - The theater where the Ephesians rioted at the instigation of Demetrius was less than 800 m (0.5 mi) S of the stadium. This theater was situated within the hollow of Mt. Pion. (Ac 19:23-41) Its facade was decorated with pillars, niches, and fine statuary. The marble seats for the spectators were arranged in a half circle of 66 rows; these, it has been estimated, afforded room for about 25,000 persons. The acoustic properties of the theater were excellent. Even today, a word spoken in a low voice at the location of the stage can be heard at the top seats. - Insight on the Scriptures Volume 1, page 735


The Great Theater, magnificently set on the western slope of Panayirdag, is undoubtedly the most
interesting of all the ruins in Ephesus. Building was begun in the reign of the Emperor Claudius
(A.D. 41-54) and completed in the reign of the Emperor Trajan (98-117 AD). The theater could seat
24,000 people but most of the seats have been removed and used In the construction of later buildings.
A wide arcaded staircase led up to a columned gallery around the top of the theater. Thirty meters
above the orchestra. In Hellenistic times the orchestra was used for plays but in the Roman period a
stage (logeion). 2.7 meters higher, was used for the same purpose. The facade of the three-storied
proscenium was richly decorated with columns, relieves and statues. The first two stories were built
in the reign of Septimus Severus (193-211), There were ramps leading to the stage from the right and
left and a staircase from the front. The columns which carried the marble floor of the stage are still
to be seen. There were, at the front of the theater, five doors with statues above them, and three
rows of columns. In early times the Great Theater was given over to the celebrations of the Festival
of Artemis, protectress of the city, during the month of April. At this time 89 golden idols donated
to the temple were brought to the theater in procession with singing and dancing, and plays were
performed before a huge crowd of visitors.
From the seats of the Great Theater you had a spectacular view of the harbor of Ephesus, which today
is completely filled in and 6 miles from the Aegean Sea. Harbor Street led from the Great Theater past
the commercial Agora (marketplace) to the harbor that in ancient times was filled with ships from
all around the Mediterranean Sea. It was lined with columns and paved with marble.




Patmos


The town of Skala, the main port, in Patmos

BIBLICAL SITE - An island where the apostle John was exiled "for speaking about God and bearing witness to Jesus." (Re 1:9) While there, he received the Revelation. According to ancient tradition, John, having been condemned by Domitian to dwell on the island of Patmos, was released after the death of that ruler (96 C.E.). Situated in the Icarian Sea (a part of the Aegean) about 55 km (34 MI) W of Asia Minor, Patmos lay about 60 km (37 MI) WSW of Miletus and less than 240 km (150 MI) from all seven congregations specifically addressed in Revelation chapters 2 and 3. This small volcanic island has a very irregular coastline and is quite barren and rocky. But today wheat, olives, and grapes are cultivated there. Apparently because of its isolation, Patmos, along with other Aegean islands, served as a penal isle. --Insight on the Scriptures Volume 2, page 585


Patmos


Patmos - Click on the photo to open another window for a larger view of this composite shot

Ephesus
Ephesus

Ephesus
Ephesus

Ephesus
Ephesus

Patmos
Patmos

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Copyright 2003 © Stan and July Milosevic. All rights reserved.
Email all questions and comments to: stanmilo@shaw.ca