Untitled Document

Chapters 1 to 5

- 1: Winnipeg
- 2: Germany/Ukraine
- 3: The Lost Chervoniy Suitcase
- 4: A New Day
- 5: Collection Of The Lost ...

Chapters 6 to 10

- 6: Carpathian Mountains
- 7: Walter & Maria Yaskiw
- 8: Blessing The Fruits...
- 9: Sroll Through Selo Rozdol
- 10: Telephone Call To Sofia

Chapters 11 to 15

- 11: Birth & Death Records
- 12: Pisochne Town Of Crystal
- 13: Lazy Day At Home
- 14: Pilgrimage
- 15: Ternopil’ska Oblast

Chapters 16 to 20

- 16: My Heart Is Pounding
- 17: Run For Your Life
- 18: Judy’s Fried Chicken
- 19: Lviv
- 20: Zadachu – Virgin Mary

Chapters 21 to 23

- 21: Visiting The Neighbours
- 22: Last Trip To Lviv
- 23: My Heart

Acknowlegements

Update 2004/05

pdf print

THE BEST IS YET TO COME... WE'RE OFF TO LVIV !!! YIPPPPPIE !!

The day is beautiful, the sun is shining, life is good, again. I feel at peace. Still no news of Canada, eh, who cares. Hey girl, make sure you have everything, maps, address for the Archives, gonna take a chance to see Diana Peltz,camera and lots of film. YA, YA I'M COMING its 9 am. Everytime I travel this highway, I still see things that I did not see the time before, everyday is a new adventure. We pull into Lviv, and park the car about 4 blocks from Rynok Square. Wasyl stays with the Lada. We walk looking for Soborna Street. Finally we are pointed in the right direction. It was amazing the buildings, churches, people. Roman & I decide that we are spending the day. We have come to realise that our family are not sight seers, or walkers. Nadia had a hard time keeping up with us. Well I guess we have

different lifestyles and they are not used to walking like we do. Nadia has a heart problem, which made it difficult for us. We need to be careful not to over exert her. Finally found the Archives. WOW!! I stood in AWE. The Archives are located at the Bernardine Monastery, built in 1600-1630. The Monastery Church of St. Andrii (Andrew) belongs today to the Ukrainian Greek Catholik Church. The Archives in Monastery building is dated 1784. We swing open the large door and stepped inside.. The foyer was large, with checkerboard floor. To our right, a staircase with well worn rickety steps. To our far left hiding in an alcove is another large door. I slowly creep up the stairs, along the whitewashed walls. A woman greets us at the top, “Dobra Dane”. “Dobra Dane” looking for the Archives, Tak. right behind you!! Duakyau We walk through the glass doors, workers are busily milling about. I ask if Diana Peltz is here SURPRISE! guess who is walking right past me? The tiny petite lady stops and states that's ME !! Dobra Dane, Judy & Roman Hrynenko visiting from Vancouver Canada !! We are hoping to have a short visit with you if you have time?? Diana tells us the Archives are closed for the month of August. (in my mind I am thinking) OH SH-T.. I FORGOT ABOUT THAT !! OH LORD PLEASE? But because you have come all this way I will meet with you.. HALLELUJAH !!! Thank goodness she speaks English. She gives us some info as to the Archives

in Ternopil and I proceeded to request cadastral maps for members of the list back home. She was kind enough to allow us to take her picture. Diana is sooo nice. The visit was short as we did not want to take up her time. As we leave the office, we take a gander around the building. She explained to us that the building used to be a Monastery. As I gaze about, there are doors on each side of the long hallway. Each Monk used to have their own room, a single bed, desk, chair and small table at the bed side with an oil lamp. The rooms are now converted into offices, but still look the same as they did 400 years earlier.. We should have ventured further down the hall but did not want to snoop... AND WHY NOT !! As we walked down the worn wooden stair case you can almost envision the Monks making their way up and down each day. That door off to the left. SNOOPY ME !! Roman come see. OH MY GOODNESS !!! LOOK !!! The door is still original, square and right in the centre is a round door knob about 7" in diameter.. BOY WAS IT HEAVY.. BUT IT OPENED.. There in front of me was a three sided, beautifully carved wood door. About five feet up was glass.. OK, OK, remember, yes I am only 5'2", so here I was on my tippy toes trying to see in. OH MY GOSH !! The room was huge, dark herringbone wood floors. Gold chandeliers hung from the ceiling. Book cases, floor to ceiling filled with books. The windows stretch at least 20 feet long, attached below the windows is a writing ledge, with several chairs. You could almost see the monks writing entries into books by daylight, then oil lamp at night. It was spooky but warming..

More info on St. Andrew's: We can see fragments of defence stone walls. These are the walls of the former Bernardine Monastery. The Church of St. Andrew had already been the property of the

Bernadine's in 1460. In 1600 they started construction of the new stone temple. Building was held under the guidance of Paolo Romano. He had not had time to bring the building to the end, after his death Ambrosius Przychylny continued the work. The bell-tower was built by Andreas Bemer, sculptural decoration of the facade was also done by him. The Baroque interior of the temple is decorated with numerous wooden carved alters (sculpt T. Huetter and K. Kutschenreiter, 1736-1754) the walls are covered with fresco paintings. It was done by B. Mazurkiewicz in 1738-1740. In front of the temple in 1736 there was established a memorial pillar. As abbey adjoins the temple from the north. In one wing of the abbey beginning from 1783 the documents on the history of the region were kept, which put the beginning to the collection of the Historical Archives, existing here till now.

To see the Church you have to give a donation. It was dark and damp as I stepped through the iron gates, Scaffolding as high as about 100 ft. Scaffolding that no one in Canada would dare walk on, and waaaaay up, near the dome people were working. Scraping the old paint and applying new paint. The church is being renovated, but they say it will be another 7 years before the work is completed. The only pews are around the pillars. To my left is a picture given to Pope John Paul from his mother, that he donated to the church during his visit to Lviv and further on is a beautiful statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary. I walked in silence, touching, peering, praying and admiring the newly gilded gold pillars. The alter area has been completed. It has been and is awe inspiring. I was speechless. Nowhere in our community do we have such a magnificent church. We approached the man at the gate and handed him a gift of money, also $20 American, as we requested mass for our David. He took our full names and asked if we would be there on Sunday for the reading of the names, NEE, as I wipe a tear from my eye, I would have loved to hear my David's name echoing throughout the Church of St. Andrii. as David's third name is Andrii after his Great Grandfather, Krzyzanowski (David Roman Andrii).

As we continued our adventure, my neck is getting a workout. Don't know where to look next, it is all so beautiful. The architecture is fascinating. As I skipped, my heart skipped. We turned the corner to the Eastern side of Rynok Square. In the mid 14th century they started to build the fortified city centre. The city was surrounded by stone defence walls. The defence fortifications of Lviv remained until 1777. In the centre of "the stone walled city" there is Rynok Square - the centre of public and trade life of the city. It will be the starting point for our tour round medieval Lviv. Rynok Square is almost a quadrate sized 142 x 129 m. 44 brick houses and a town hall form it. The present town hall, which stands in the middle of the square, was built in 1827-1835 in the style of Classicism according to the project of J. Markl and F. Trewcher. The old town hall consisted of three buildings built in different times. The

eldest, middle part, dated back to the 14th century. The tower was built in 1619 (arch A. Bemer). This tower, as well as the entire town hall, in the early 19th century was unstable, and at last in 1826, it collapsed. The newly built town hall was considered massive and monumental.. During the celebration of the days of the city, which are held every year in autumn, anyone who wishes may climb the 65 meter high tower and see nice views of Lviv as well as the clockwork of the big town hall clock. It has already efficiently served for 150 years. The four corners of Rynok Square are ornamented by fountains. The four fountains, sculpted by artist Hartman Witwir in the early 19th century, depict the Greek gods Amphitrite, Diana, Neptune and Adonis.

The eastern side of the square begins with the corner building House N.2 - the former Bandinelli Palace. Having been built in 1593, in the early 17th century it became the property of Robert Bandinelli, a merchant from Italy. In 1629 he organised a post office in the house. The building's facade have rich carved decorations.. The Architect of the next house N.3 Piotr Polejowski, built it in 1717-1772 by order of the Rzewuskis magnates. Sculptural décor was done by Franciszek Olendzki. This house was fascinating N.4 it is called the "Chorna Kamyanytsya" Blackstone Palace, that comes from lime stone darkened with time of which diamond rust was made. The house is a perfect sample of Lviv Renaissance. It was built in 1588-1589. Paolo Romano and one more Italian, called in Lviv, Pietro di Barbona were its architects. Sculptural décor was done by master Marcin Gradowski during restoration of the building 1675-1677.

We walked and walked, the Cathedrals are amazing. There is so much to see, you need months. One church was Ensemble of the Church of the Assumption. For fighting for their social and political rights in the middle of the 16th century the Ukrainian's formed a community called Uspens'ke which existed attached to the church of the Assumption of the Virgin, Lviv fraternity school and the printing house was known not only in Ukraine but out of its borders. The fraternity has left for it progeny beautiful Renaissance ensemble of the Church of the Assumption. There are: church, bell tower and chapel. The bell tower is the oldest amongst three present day structures of the ensemble. It was built in 1572 to 1578. I peered around the corner of the Church and came to a court yard, it was neat

roaming the corridors. As we entered, we came upon the Chapel of the Three Hierarchs. BREATHTAKING !! Pietro di Barbona erected a well proportioned three circled Kornyakt's tower

of 65 m height with a tent completion. It was the pride of the fraternity members and has been an adornment of Lviv till now. In 1584 the fraternity began to erect the smaller prototype of a future church - the Chapel of the Three Hierarchs. Andrzej Podlesny was its architect. The Architect has built the main size of the chapel as a cube, and this is typical for classic. Renaissance architecture. The completion is quite Ukrainian. There are three cupolas of different size on drums. The chapel is widely decorated both from outside and in the interior with rich stone carving. The beauty and artistic perfection of the chapel inspired members of the fraternity. After its blessing in 1591 they decide not to restore the church and build a new one. Paolo Romano was invited for erecting the church. Wojciech Kapinos had helped him since 1592 and Ambrosius Przychylny finished the building in 1629.

Located in one of the Palaces was a museum, up the stairs we climbed. We rounded the corner to find a room filled with clothing dating from the 1600's ... The lady curator invited us in for a look. We explained that we were visiting from Canada. She was so overwhelmed that she started to cry. As we tried to comfort her, she stated that almost everything in the museum had been donated by friends of friends and families who emigrated to Canada. She would not accept any money, but Roman insisted. There were two rooms filled with memorabilia from years gone by. As we left I wanted a picture of the clothing but was told that WE could not take pictures.. WHY NOT ? We need to preserve what we have and no one should see them ?? but why display them ? And if no one is allowed to take pictures how is anyone suppose to know that they are here ?? NEE !!!!

We're off !! up and down the cobble streets.. gasps, screams, WOW'S ...Do you see that ?? We finally come to Svobody Street. Beside the old centre there exists another city centre, formed in the 19th century and from that time on there concentrated public, commercial, business and cultural life. It is better to start sightseeing from Svobody Avenue. The foot boulevard in the middle of the Avenue was finished in 1888. In the very beginning of the boulevard is a stone Fountain(well)of the Virgin. The city patroness in the legends of its inhabitants. It was mounted in 1904 and restored in 1997 with the copy of the statue of the Virgin, made by Munich sculptor J.N. Hauttmann(1859). If you walk from the fountain of the Virgin along the boulevard you can see another monument respected by Lviv citizens, the Monument of Taras Shevchenko (sc. V and A. Sukhors'kyi, bronze 1992-1995) to the left of the Kobzar's figure there is the Wave of National Revival, a 12 meters high symbolic stele. Opera House, built in 1895-1900 (arch. Z Gorgolewski) completes the hub of the boulevard northwards. The perspective view of the Theatre from Mickiewicz Square is one of the most attractive in Lviv urbanistic landscape. The building of the theatre intrigues with its sculptural and picturesque richness. On the facade in the bay there are situated allegorical figures by A. Popiel and T. Baracz. Comedy on the left and Tragedy on the right. The bas-relief composition by A. Popiel "Joys and Sufferings of Life" is in the three cornered with copper statues by P. Wojtowicz. There are Glory in the centre, the Genius of Drama and Comedy, on the left and Genius of Music on the right. There are twelve canvases under the plafond of the vestibule, the allegories, painted under the guidance of T. Popiel. There is the entrance to the so-called hall of mirrors. Here one can watch wall decorative panels on the subjects of theatrical works which were popular in about 1900. The panel were made by Lviv artists under the guidance of St. Debicki. The auditorium is lyre-shaped. The decorative stage curtain "Parnasus" by a well-known academician-artist H. Siemiradzki, which can be seen at first-night performances, is the stage adornment..

Surprise, off to the left of the Opera House down a short street is a MARKET !!!SHOPPING !!!

Everyone selling their wares.. household items, books, church icons etc. I would have loved to buy that light switch with the Angels, but with my luck, I would get stopped by customs to produce a receipt.. OH, the most wonderful paintings, vibrant colours, I WANT ONE, the owner is not here, wonder when they are coming back.. Only thing is, I don't want the baroque picture frame. As I was talking out loud, a friendly English speaking voice!! I forgot what it was like to hear English. I was taken aback... Mike was from Ternopil, originally from Edmonton, Alberta.. brought his children to Lviv for a visit.. He's worked for the Canadian Consulate in Kiev for 10 years now.. and loves it.

OH MY GOD!!! LOOK AT THE UKRAINIAN EMBROIDERY ??? Ladies, every type of embroidered blouses, shirts, tablecloths, runners, napkins, pillowcases. THOUGHT I DIED AND WENT TO HEAVEN !!! HAHA... Two walls 7' high by one block long. I didn't know where to look first. The patterns, the colours. There where woman, sitting in the shade, embroidering as we looked on and buyers who had the tablecloths stretched out to see the patterns. Will it fit the tables, is it wide enough? I just can't believe that I DID NOT PURCHASE ONE TABLECLOTH. I had received so many as gifts on our trip, and have several back home, my thought was, do I need another one ??

My attention now turns to Nadia, she looks hot and perspiring. ROMAN is NADIA OK ??? I see her walking very fast and disappears??? I'm thinkin something's wrong.. I find her in the restaurant asking for water.. NADIA what's wrong? I guessed it, she cannot keep up to us and says she needs to sit down. Thank goodness she has her heart medication. A small brown bottle of liquid nitro?? She swallowed a couple of cap fulls, settles down. She decides to go find Wasyl and bring the car to us. All of a sudden she hailed down a taxi and was gone !!! HERE WE WERE STANDING ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD... WHERE DO WE GO, WHAT DO WE DO!! Lets go sightseeing, but keep an eye out for the Lada.

We stumbled upon the Church of Transfiguration (21 Krakivs'ka Street) was made by talented architect Sylvestr Havryshkevych, who was able to preserve and use the most valuable spared elements of the previous construction of the temple and give the features of Ukrainian church to the newly erected building. The work lasted from 1875-1898. Monumental and severe harmony of the facades, performed in the traditions of Classicism contrasts with the richly decorated interior of the church. Leonard Marconi is the author of the sculptural décor. Many well known artists worked on the mounting of the interior "Transfiguration of God" was made by Theopil Kopystyns'kyi. The cathedral was so beautiful we never dared to venture further into the church and took pictures from the entrance like the rest of the tourists... Our next stop was the First Publishing House in Lviv, with a bronze statue of the first publisher Ivan Fedorov. The first book printed in Ukraine 1574 - by I. Fedorov's "The Apostle". The first newspaper in L'viv was Gazette de Leopol, published in French. The first issue appeared on the 15th of January and the last on the 19th of December, 1776. It was the first

periodical publication in Ukraine. As we approached the square, it was interesting to see several people trading/selling their books. Maybe I should have looked a little closer and purchased a couple of books for Dad !! Across the road, where the old walls of the city still stand was catacombs that zig zag under the cobble stone streets.. OHHH !!! I WANT TO SEE, CAN WE GO DOWN THERE?? To dangerous as the walls, and ceilings are crumbling. OH NO !!! NO I'M NOT READY TO GOOOOO !!!! Our day in Lviv is over, there's the Blue Lada!! We jump into the back seat, roll down the window, let the wind blow my short blond hair and cool off my perspiring skin.. HA, and you thought I was going to say my long blond locks blowing in the wind like we were driving in our 56 Chev Convertible. It would have been fantastic driving around Ukraine with our car. Could have taken the whole neighbourhood for a ride, the back

seat would hold at least 4 people. I was overwhelmed with the day. The architecture, the people, colours, the hub bub of the city.. I LOVE IT ALL !!!!! The drive back was a blur. I thought about what it would be like to just sit at a cafe, talk, laugh, and joke with the people, maybe get an apartment. For some reason I felt that I belonged in this beautiful city. Hummmm, really have to think about this one ????



Home Chapters 1 to 5 - 1: Winnipeg - 2: Germany/Ukraine - 3: The Lost Chervoniy Suitcase - 4: A New Day - 5: Collection Of The Lost ... Chapters 6 to 10 - 6: Carpathian Mountains - 7: Walter & Maria Yaskiw - 8: Blessing The Fruits... - 9: Sroll Through Selo Rozdol - 10: Telephone Call To Sofia Chapters 11 to 15 - 11: Birth & Death Records - 12: Pisochne Town Of Crystal - 13: Lazy Day At Home - 14: Pilgrimage - 15: Ternopil’ska Oblast Chapters 16 to 20 - 16: My Heart Is Pounding - 17: Run For Your Life - 18: Judy’s Fried Chicken - 19: Lviv - 20: Zadachu – Virgin Mary Chapters 21 to 23 - 21: Visiting The Neighbours - 22: Last Trip To Lviv - 23: My Heart Acknowlegements Update 2004/05 pdf print	CHAPTER 19 LVIV August 22, 2002 Dobra Rano !! THE BEST IS YET TO COME... WE'RE OFF TO LVIV !!! YIPPPPPIE !! The day is beautiful, the sun is shining, life is good, again. I feel at peace. Still no news of Canada, eh, who cares. Hey girl, make sure you have everything, maps, address for the Archives, gonna take a chance to see Diana Peltz,camera and lots of film. YA, YA I'M COMING its 9 am. Everytime I travel this highway, I still see things that I did not see the time before, everyday is a new adventure. We pull into Lviv, and park the car about 4 blocks from Rynok Square. Wasyl stays with the Lada. We walk looking for Soborna Street. Finally we are pointed in the right direction. It was amazing the buildings, churches, people. Roman & I decide that we are spending the day. We have come to realise that our family are not sight seers, or walkers. Nadia had a hard time keeping up with us. Well I guess we have different lifestyles and they are not used to walking like we do. Nadia has a heart problem, which made it difficult for us. We need to be careful not to over exert her. Finally found the Archives. WOW!! I stood in AWE. The Archives are located at the Bernardine Monastery, built in 1600-1630. The Monastery Church of St. Andrii (Andrew) belongs today to the Ukrainian Greek Catholik Church. The Archives in Monastery building is dated 1784. We swing open the large door and stepped inside.. The foyer was large, with checkerboard floor. To our right, a staircase with well worn rickety steps. To our far left hiding in an alcove is another large door. I slowly creep up the stairs, along the whitewashed walls. A woman greets us at the top, “Dobra Dane”. “Dobra Dane” looking for the Archives, Tak. right behind you!! Duakyau We walk through the glass doors, workers are busily milling about. I ask if Diana Peltz is here SURPRISE! guess who is walking right past me? The tiny petite lady stops and states that's ME !! Dobra Dane, Judy & Roman Hrynenko visiting from Vancouver Canada !! We are hoping to have a short visit with you if you have time?? Diana tells us the Archives are closed for the month of August. (in my mind I am thinking) OH SH-T.. I FORGOT ABOUT THAT !! OH LORD PLEASE? But because you have come all this way I will meet with you.. HALLELUJAH !!! Thank goodness she speaks English. She gives us some info as to the Archives in Ternopil and I proceeded to request cadastral maps for members of the list back home. She was kind enough to allow us to take her picture. Diana is sooo nice. The visit was short as we did not want to take up her time. As we leave the office, we take a gander around the building. She explained to us that the building used to be a Monastery. As I gaze about, there are doors on each side of the long hallway. Each Monk used to have their own room, a single bed, desk, chair and small table at the bed side with an oil lamp. The rooms are now converted into offices, but still look the same as they did 400 years earlier.. We should have ventured further down the hall but did not want to snoop... AND WHY NOT !! As we walked down the worn wooden stair case you can almost envision the Monks making their way up and down each day. That door off to the left. SNOOPY ME !! Roman come see. OH MY GOODNESS !!! LOOK !!! The door is still original, square and right in the centre is a round door knob about 7" in diameter.. BOY WAS IT HEAVY.. BUT IT OPENED.. There in front of me was a three sided, beautifully carved wood door. About five feet up was glass.. OK, OK, remember, yes I am only 5'2", so here I was on my tippy toes trying to see in. OH MY GOSH !! The room was huge, dark herringbone wood floors. Gold chandeliers hung from the ceiling. Book cases, floor to ceiling filled with books. The windows stretch at least 20 feet long, attached below the windows is a writing ledge, with several chairs. You could almost see the monks writing entries into books by daylight, then oil lamp at night. It was spooky but warming.. More info on St. Andrew's: We can see fragments of defence stone walls. These are the walls of the former Bernardine Monastery. The Church of St. Andrew had already been the property of the Bernadine's in 1460. In 1600 they started construction of the new stone temple. Building was held under the guidance of Paolo Romano. He had not had time to bring the building to the end, after his death Ambrosius Przychylny continued the work. The bell-tower was built by Andreas Bemer, sculptural decoration of the facade was also done by him. The Baroque interior of the temple is decorated with numerous wooden carved alters (sculpt T. Huetter and K. Kutschenreiter, 1736-1754) the walls are covered with fresco paintings. It was done by B. Mazurkiewicz in 1738-1740. In front of the temple in 1736 there was established a memorial pillar. As abbey adjoins the temple from the north. In one wing of the abbey beginning from 1783 the documents on the history of the region were kept, which put the beginning to the collection of the Historical Archives, existing here till now. To see the Church you have to give a donation. It was dark and damp as I stepped through the iron gates, Scaffolding as high as about 100 ft. Scaffolding that no one in Canada would dare walk on, and waaaaay up, near the dome people were working. Scraping the old paint and applying new paint. The church is being renovated, but they say it will be another 7 years before the work is completed. The only pews are around the pillars. To my left is a picture given to Pope John Paul from his mother, that he donated to the church during his visit to Lviv and further on is a beautiful statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary. I walked in silence, touching, peering, praying and admiring the newly gilded gold pillars. The alter area has been completed. It has been and is awe inspiring. I was speechless. Nowhere in our community do we have such a magnificent church. We approached the man at the gate and handed him a gift of money, also $20 American, as we requested mass for our David. He took our full names and asked if we would be there on Sunday for the reading of the names, NEE, as I wipe a tear from my eye, I would have loved to hear my David's name echoing throughout the Church of St. Andrii. as David's third name is Andrii after his Great Grandfather, Krzyzanowski (David Roman Andrii). As we continued our adventure, my neck is getting a workout. Don't know where to look next, it is all so beautiful. The architecture is fascinating. As I skipped, my heart skipped. We turned the corner to the Eastern side of Rynok Square. In the mid 14th century they started to build the fortified city centre. The city was surrounded by stone defence walls. The defence fortifications of Lviv remained until 1777. In the centre of "the stone walled city" there is Rynok Square - the centre of public and trade life of the city. It will be the starting point for our tour round medieval Lviv. Rynok Square is almost a quadrate sized 142 x 129 m. 44 brick houses and a town hall form it. The present town hall, which stands in the middle of the square, was built in 1827-1835 in the style of Classicism according to the project of J. Markl and F. Trewcher. The old town hall consisted of three buildings built in different times. The eldest, middle part, dated back to the 14th century. The tower was built in 1619 (arch A. Bemer). This tower, as well as the entire town hall, in the early 19th century was unstable, and at last in 1826, it collapsed. The newly built town hall was considered massive and monumental.. During the celebration of the days of the city, which are held every year in autumn, anyone who wishes may climb the 65 meter high tower and see nice views of Lviv as well as the clockwork of the big town hall clock. It has already efficiently served for 150 years. The four corners of Rynok Square are ornamented by fountains. The four fountains, sculpted by artist Hartman Witwir in the early 19th century, depict the Greek gods Amphitrite, Diana, Neptune and Adonis. The eastern side of the square begins with the corner building House N.2 - the former Bandinelli Palace. Having been built in 1593, in the early 17th century it became the property of Robert Bandinelli, a merchant from Italy. In 1629 he organised a post office in the house. The building's facade have rich carved decorations.. The Architect of the next house N.3 Piotr Polejowski, built it in 1717-1772 by order of the Rzewuskis magnates. Sculptural décor was done by Franciszek Olendzki. This house was fascinating N.4 it is called the "Chorna Kamyanytsya" Blackstone Palace, that comes from lime stone darkened with time of which diamond rust was made. The house is a perfect sample of Lviv Renaissance. It was built in 1588-1589. Paolo Romano and one more Italian, called in Lviv, Pietro di Barbona were its architects. Sculptural décor was done by master Marcin Gradowski during restoration of the building 1675-1677. We walked and walked, the Cathedrals are amazing. There is so much to see, you need months. One church was Ensemble of the Church of the Assumption. For fighting for their social and political rights in the middle of the 16th century the Ukrainian's formed a community called Uspens'ke which existed attached to the church of the Assumption of the Virgin, Lviv fraternity school and the printing house was known not only in Ukraine but out of its borders. The fraternity has left for it progeny beautiful Renaissance ensemble of the Church of the Assumption. There are: church, bell tower and chapel. The bell tower is the oldest amongst three present day structures of the ensemble. It was built in 1572 to 1578. I peered around the corner of the Church and came to a court yard, it was neat roaming the corridors. As we entered, we came upon the Chapel of the Three Hierarchs. BREATHTAKING !! Pietro di Barbona erected a well proportioned three circled Kornyakt's tower of 65 m height with a tent completion. It was the pride of the fraternity members and has been an adornment of Lviv till now. In 1584 the fraternity began to erect the smaller prototype of a future church - the Chapel of the Three Hierarchs. Andrzej Podlesny was its architect. The Architect has built the main size of the chapel as a cube, and this is typical for classic. Renaissance architecture. The completion is quite Ukrainian. There are three cupolas of different size on drums. The chapel is widely decorated both from outside and in the interior with rich stone carving. The beauty and artistic perfection of the chapel inspired members of the fraternity. After its blessing in 1591 they decide not to restore the church and build a new one. Paolo Romano was invited for erecting the church. Wojciech Kapinos had helped him since 1592 and Ambrosius Przychylny finished the building in 1629. Located in one of the Palaces was a museum, up the stairs we climbed. We rounded the corner to find a room filled with clothing dating from the 1600's ... The lady curator invited us in for a look. We explained that we were visiting from Canada. She was so overwhelmed that she started to cry. As we tried to comfort her, she stated that almost everything in the museum had been donated by friends of friends and families who emigrated to Canada. She would not accept any money, but Roman insisted. There were two rooms filled with memorabilia from years gone by. As we left I wanted a picture of the clothing but was told that WE could not take pictures.. WHY NOT ? We need to preserve what we have and no one should see them ?? but why display them ? And if no one is allowed to take pictures how is anyone suppose to know that they are here ?? NEE !!!! We're off !! up and down the cobble streets.. gasps, screams, WOW'S ...Do you see that ?? We finally come to Svobody Street. Beside the old centre there exists another city centre, formed in the 19th century and from that time on there concentrated public, commercial, business and cultural life. It is better to start sightseeing from Svobody Avenue. The foot boulevard in the middle of the Avenue was finished in 1888. In the very beginning of the boulevard is a stone Fountain(well)of the Virgin. The city patroness in the legends of its inhabitants. It was mounted in 1904 and restored in 1997 with the copy of the statue of the Virgin, made by Munich sculptor J.N. Hauttmann(1859). If you walk from the fountain of the Virgin along the boulevard you can see another monument respected by Lviv citizens, the Monument of Taras Shevchenko (sc. V and A. Sukhors'kyi, bronze 1992-1995) to the left of the Kobzar's figure there is the Wave of National Revival, a 12 meters high symbolic stele. Opera House, built in 1895-1900 (arch. Z Gorgolewski) completes the hub of the boulevard northwards. The perspective view of the Theatre from Mickiewicz Square is one of the most attractive in Lviv urbanistic landscape. The building of the theatre intrigues with its sculptural and picturesque richness. On the facade in the bay there are situated allegorical figures by A. Popiel and T. Baracz. Comedy on the left and Tragedy on the right. The bas-relief composition by A. Popiel "Joys and Sufferings of Life" is in the three cornered with copper statues by P. Wojtowicz. There are Glory in the centre, the Genius of Drama and Comedy, on the left and Genius of Music on the right. There are twelve canvases under the plafond of the vestibule, the allegories, painted under the guidance of T. Popiel. There is the entrance to the so-called hall of mirrors. Here one can watch wall decorative panels on the subjects of theatrical works which were popular in about 1900. The panel were made by Lviv artists under the guidance of St. Debicki. The auditorium is lyre-shaped. The decorative stage curtain "Parnasus" by a well-known academician-artist H. Siemiradzki, which can be seen at first-night performances, is the stage adornment.. Surprise, off to the left of the Opera House down a short street is a MARKET !!!SHOPPING !!! Everyone selling their wares.. household items, books, church icons etc. I would have loved to buy that light switch with the Angels, but with my luck, I would get stopped by customs to produce a receipt.. OH, the most wonderful paintings, vibrant colours, I WANT ONE, the owner is not here, wonder when they are coming back.. Only thing is, I don't want the baroque picture frame. As I was talking out loud, a friendly English speaking voice!! I forgot what it was like to hear English. I was taken aback... Mike was from Ternopil, originally from Edmonton, Alberta.. brought his children to Lviv for a visit.. He's worked for the Canadian Consulate in Kiev for 10 years now.. and loves it. OH MY GOD!!! LOOK AT THE UKRAINIAN EMBROIDERY ??? Ladies, every type of embroidered blouses, shirts, tablecloths, runners, napkins, pillowcases. THOUGHT I DIED AND WENT TO HEAVEN !!! HAHA... Two walls 7' high by one block long. I didn't know where to look first. The patterns, the colours. There where woman, sitting in the shade, embroidering as we looked on and buyers who had the tablecloths stretched out to see the patterns. Will it fit the tables, is it wide enough? I just can't believe that I DID NOT PURCHASE ONE TABLECLOTH. I had received so many as gifts on our trip, and have several back home, my thought was, do I need another one ?? My attention now turns to Nadia, she looks hot and perspiring. ROMAN is NADIA OK ??? I see her walking very fast and disappears??? I'm thinkin something's wrong.. I find her in the restaurant asking for water.. NADIA what's wrong? I guessed it, she cannot keep up to us and says she needs to sit down. Thank goodness she has her heart medication. A small brown bottle of liquid nitro?? She swallowed a couple of cap fulls, settles down. She decides to go find Wasyl and bring the car to us. All of a sudden she hailed down a taxi and was gone !!! HERE WE WERE STANDING ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD... WHERE DO WE GO, WHAT DO WE DO!! Lets go sightseeing, but keep an eye out for the Lada. We stumbled upon the Church of Transfiguration (21 Krakivs'ka Street) was made by talented architect Sylvestr Havryshkevych, who was able to preserve and use the most valuable spared elements of the previous construction of the temple and give the features of Ukrainian church to the newly erected building. The work lasted from 1875-1898. Monumental and severe harmony of the facades, performed in the traditions of Classicism contrasts with the richly decorated interior of the church. Leonard Marconi is the author of the sculptural décor. Many well known artists worked on the mounting of the interior "Transfiguration of God" was made by Theopil Kopystyns'kyi. The cathedral was so beautiful we never dared to venture further into the church and took pictures from the entrance like the rest of the tourists... Our next stop was the First Publishing House in Lviv, with a bronze statue of the first publisher Ivan Fedorov. The first book printed in Ukraine 1574 - by I. Fedorov's "The Apostle". The first newspaper in L'viv was Gazette de Leopol, published in French. The first issue appeared on the 15th of January and the last on the 19th of December, 1776. It was the first periodical publication in Ukraine. As we approached the square, it was interesting to see several people trading/selling their books. Maybe I should have looked a little closer and purchased a couple of books for Dad !! Across the road, where the old walls of the city still stand was catacombs that zig zag under the cobble stone streets.. OHHH !!! I WANT TO SEE, CAN WE GO DOWN THERE?? To dangerous as the walls, and ceilings are crumbling. OH NO !!! NO I'M NOT READY TO GOOOOO !!!! Our day in Lviv is over, there's the Blue Lada!! We jump into the back seat, roll down the window, let the wind blow my short blond hair and cool off my perspiring skin.. HA, and you thought I was going to say my long blond locks blowing in the wind like we were driving in our 56 Chev Convertible. It would have been fantastic driving around Ukraine with our car. Could have taken the whole neighbourhood for a ride, the back seat would hold at least 4 people. I was overwhelmed with the day. The architecture, the people, colours, the hub bub of the city.. I LOVE IT ALL !!!!! The drive back was a blur. I thought about what it would be like to just sit at a cafe, talk, laugh, and joke with the people, maybe get an apartment. For some reason I felt that I belonged in this beautiful city. Hummmm, really have to think about this one ????
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CHAPTER 19 LVIV August 22, 2002 Dobra Rano !!

THE BEST IS YET TO COME... WE'RE OFF TO LVIV !!! YIPPPPPIE !!