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In 2003, Chuck Gottfried in his catboat Tabby,
and I in my Chebacco Wayward Lass, rendezvoused at
Fox Cove at Sucia Island. Chuck’s brother-in-law
Rollan and my son Alan were with us, and we all
thoroughly enjoyed the sailing, and the island.
Someone, I think it was Chuck, had the twin ideas of
doing it again (a no-brainer) and asking other small
boat owners to join us there (brilliant!).
And so was born the Sucia Small
Boat Rendezvous. There was a quick and positive response to the idea,
from Oregon to Vancouver Island.
And here we were, finally about to leave for the
2004 Sucia Small Boat Rendezvous! There were three
Vancouver Island boats going, and we had arranged to
travel together. Maureen and I arrived at the Sidney
BC boat ramp about nine o’clock on Friday morning,
under a grey and somewhat threatening sky. John
Ewing was waiting for us, with his Bolger Surf,
Caer, all packed and ready to launch. We parked
our Chebacco, Wayward Lass, beside Caer,
and started rigging up. Because we were going to be
rigged up for four days, and crossing into US waters
as well, I took special care to get all the flag
halyards in place. Unfortunately, in my excitement I
didn’t put the sail halyards through all the right
blocks, and had to lower the mast twice before I got
them right! Once that was done, we loaded our food,
drink, bedding, tent, bags and toys, and were ready
to go.
Meanwhile, Kirk Coleman and his son Dan had
arrived with their 17 foot Davidson, a large and
sturdy sailing dinghy. The Davidson was rigged and
ready just about the same time as Wayward Lass,
so we launched all three boats and motored off into
a now steady rain, towing Caer behind
Wayward Lass.
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Caer
towing behind Wayward Lass,
followed by Kirk and Dan in their Davidson.
(click picture to enlarge) |
Not an auspicious start, rain and no wind, but
with four days ahead of us, there was plenty of time
for improvement. We headed slightly north of east
towards the beacon on the end of Sidney Spit, about
3 miles away.
Our immediate goal was Roche Harbor, on San Juan
Island, where we could clear US Customs. As we
motored along, the rain slackened and stopped – that
was the last we saw of it all weekend! A light wind
appeared from the north so we were able to raise our
sails, although the motors were kept running as we
had a long way to go. At Roche Harbor, we furled
sails and motored in to the Customs dock, narrowly
edging out a big cruiser who was also looking for
space (honest, I didn’t cheat – he just got there
too late!). Kirk and I, as Masters of our Vessels,
headed into the Customs office, which is right on
the outermost dock. The Customs officers were their
usual professional but friendly selves, and didn’t
keep us for long. Boat work must be less stressful
than highway border crossings, the staff are always
more cheerful. Maureen and I had forgotten the
restriction on citrus fruits, but we were allowed to
retain our oranges after we peeled them and
surrendered the peel. Seemed strange, since they
were California oranges anyway, but “our’s not to
reason why”.
Leaving Roche Harbor we continued east, heading
for President’s Channel and Sucia, now visible in
the distance. Once in the Channel we had a light
westerly, so raised sails and shut off the motors
for a while.
| Kirk was pulling away
from us, so we pulled out all the stops!
Here’s our tiny jib, wung out on the boat
hook, with Sucia appearing in the distance.
But Kirk was still faster. |
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Unfortunately the wind stayed very light and the
current was against us, so eventually we resumed
motor-sailing. Ahead of us, silhouetted against the
Orcas Island shore, we could see silhouettes of four
identical sails. As we drew level, we saw they were
four Lightnings, each one crewed by four youngsters.
I for one felt pretty sheepish as we motored past
these true-blue sailors!
It was mid-afternoon by now, but Sucia was
looking very close. The wind strengthened again,
this time from the south-east, so we shut down the
motors again and beat towards the point concealing
Fossil Bay.
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Kirk’s
Davidson overtaking us again! Sucia in the
background.
(click images to enlarge) |
The rendezvous was meant to be in Fox Cove, just
over a narrow neck of land from Fossil, but because
our assigned campsite was beside Fossil and because
it was more easily reached by the mainland
participants, the destination had been changed only
days before. But it was awkward for us with the tide
was now flooding northwest, and we were losing
ground on each tack. Since the wind obstinately
refused to blow hard enough, we once again started
our motors.
However, we didn’t really mind motoring, what
with the excitement of arrival. We passed Chuck
Gottfried’s brand-new, only-just-launched Chebacco,
Full Gallop, at a mooring halfway up the
bay, and as we drew near I gave him a chorus of the
Sky Boat Song, on a very out-of-tune bagpipe.
(Shouldn’t have been out of tune, must have been the
sea air – however, as Maureen commented, most people
can’t tell the difference!)
We exchanged greetings with Chuck, but didn’t
stop. We carried on up to the head of the bay where
we could see a line of boats hauled up on the
shingle, along with one or two just off, held
between shore lines and stern anchors. We copied
these excellent examples, letting Wayward Lass’
bow rest on the beach for unloading.
My memory of the next few minutes is pretty
confused. We were meeting and greeting old and new
friends, checking out campsites and boats and just
generally arriving. I knew the weekend was a success
when I overheard two boaters already making plans to
come again next year – and this only partway through
day one of four!
Things seemed to slow down after a few minutes,
and we got organized enough to carry up all the gear
from the boats and pitch our tents. The rising tide
meant that I didn’t have to haul Wayward Lass
very far off the beach for the night. On this coast
we have diurnal tides, with 2 highs and 2 lows each
day, and the next low wasn’t going down very far, so
once I’d tied off the lines I could still wade
ashore. I did take the inflatable ashore with me and
pumped it up later “just in case”.
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On the beach at Sucia.
From left to right: a
Whitehall; a dory; a skiff; a Chebacco; a
Bolger Surf; a Davidson; and another
Chebacco.
The tiny dinghy in the
foreground is the famous Puffed Wheat Boat! |
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About eight o’clock the Lightnings sailed into
Fox Cove, showing us it could be done without
motors. The crews consisted of three campers and one
counsellors in each boat, from Four Winds Camp, a
private non-profit summer camp in the San Juans.
http://www.fourwindscamp.org/ A young and
cheerful group, it was hard for us oldies to tell
the kids from the counsellors!
There were eight boats present (in our group) on
Friday night, plus one on nearby Orcas Island. Terry
Lesh and his wife Patricia didn’t fancy sleeping on
the ground, so were commuting the 2 ½ miles from
Bartwood Lodge on the north shore of Orcas. We just
missed seeing them on Friday, Terry called on the
VHF as we arrived to say he could see our sails, but
was already on his way back to Bartwood. We met
everyone else, though, and this is probably as good
a place as any to make a note of who was there,
including later arrivals. By the way, all photos
were taken by me unless otherwise noted. (click the
thumbnails for larger versions)
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| Chuck Gottfried and
Shay, with their Chebacco, Full Gallop
(J. Kohnen photo) |
Dean Bishop and his son
Cameron, with their Rhodes Bantam
(J. Kohnen photo) |
John Kohnen with his
Jordan Skiff, Pickle |
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Frank Mabrey with his
Gig Harbor Whitehall
(J. Kohnen photo) |
Gary Powell and his daughter Katie, with
their Gig Harbor Dory
(J. Kohnen photo) |
John Ewing with his Bolger Surf,
Caer
(J. Kohnen photo) |
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Randy Wheating and Ryan Shellborn with
Randy’s Chebacco, Bluster
(J. Kohnen photo) |
Kirk Coleman and his son Dan with their
Davidson 17 |
Terry Lesh and Patricia commuting in his
Baymaster, Cayuga
(J. Kohnen photo) |
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Jamie Orr (me) and Maureen with our
Chebacco, Wayward Lass
(J. Kohnen photo) |
Alan and Glen Woodbury with their
Concordia Sloop Boat, Feather
(J. Kohnen photo) |
Joe Morris and Margaret brought Joe’s
Fibreform tri-hull, Beachcomber
(J. Morris photo) |
There was pretty much constant visiting and
chatting going on. At some point we agreed that
sailing to Patos Island the following day would be a
good idea. Patos is the most northerly island in the
San Juan group, about two miles away from Sucia, but
about four miles from our camp, adding in the
distance down Fossil Bay and up the west side of
Sucia. That’s about all I recall of Friday – I think
some folks joined Dean and Cameron at their campsite
at the other end of the beach, where they had a good
fire burning, but it was pumpkin time for this
sailor. I crawled into our tent, and that was all I
knew until morning!
Saturday morning I woke up pretty early, so I
dressed and went for a walk under an overcast sky.
Frank Mabrey was already up and doing, but everyone
else was still asleep. Most of the boats were high
and dry on the beach but Wayward Lass was still just
barely afloat – Kirk Coleman did some work with his
tide table the night before and gave me an estimate
of where the tide would reach, and was right on.
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Another view of the
beach, taken around six next morning. |
After a while Frank and I carried his Whitehall
down to the water, and he set off, “for a row”. My
last sight of him was his sail rounding the point
nearly a mile away, and before he came back he’d
been all the way over to Orcas – some row!
| Here’s Frank back from
his early morning jaunt over to Orcas.
It’s only a coincidence that my boat managed
to get in the picture too – honest! |
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Once everyone else was up and breakfast was over,
we turned to getting the boats back into their
natural element. We carried one or two lighter ones
down, but we weren’t looking forward to carrying the
Davidson. However, Gary pulled out a pair of
inflatable boat rollers and pumped them up. With
these we had the Davidson in the water in no time –
I’d heard of these but never seen them – a wonderful
invention. I’m not sure how well they would work on
a Chebacco with its shallow keel, but I think I’ll
look into it.
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Here’s Gary’s inflatable
boat rollers in action, on launching his own
Gig Harbor dory. |
A total of eight boats set off for Patos, rowing,
motoring and finally sailing. Frank stayed behind,
and Terry motored in as we left but didn’t join us.
There wasn’t much wind deep in the bay, but as we
neared the mouth, there was a good breeze.
Unfortunately it was blowing the wrong way and we
had to work to get out. The last ones out were
Maureen and I in Wayward Lass and Gary and
Katie in their dory. Outside, the wind was from the
west and we had an easy close reach to clear the
northwest tip of Sucia. Once around that, we could
see the rest of the fleet strung out ahead, and set
off in pursuit. We were on a broad reach then, where
Wayward Lass usually does well, so you can
imagine how pleased I was as Gary and Katie
gradually overtook, then passed us! Yes, well….
By now the sun was shining, the wind was
dropping, and the lead boats were almost at Patos.
Since there was no real hope of catching up, I made
an executive decision to turn towards the other
(western) end of Patos, perhaps to meet everyone
coming around the other way. We had a very pleasant,
if slow, sail over to the island, then followed the
shore westward. We saw an otter running over the
rocks, and later a mother seal with her pup, soaking
up the sunshine. Eventually, however, we had to
admit that we weren’t making much progress with
almost no wind and a slight current now running
against us, so we fired up Honda and motored slowly
around the end of the island. The overcast had long
gone by now, and we had a mostly sunny sky.
We met the two Johns coming the other way in
Pickle, also motoring, and swapped photo-ops.
We saw Gary and Katie on shore, so we pulled in
and gave them a lift. We also saw Chuck and Shay,
but although they accepted a couple of beers, they
carried on walking. We found the rest of the fleet
pulled up in a little cove near the easternmost part
of the island, so I dropped the others on the beach,
then dropped the anchor just off the shore and rowed
the inflatable in. We spent a very pleasant hour or
so talking, quenching our thirst and admiring our
boats.
| The two Johns with
mainland Washington behind them. As usual,
John K is seeing the world through Nikon
coloured lenses! |
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The beach at Patos
Island. Three Chebaccos in the background,
then the Davidson, the dory and finally the
Bantam.
I think those are Cameron’s feet. |
Dean and Cameron left first, then the rest of us
climbed aboard our various little ships. Gary’s dory
had no motor, and there wasn’t any wind worth
mentioning, so I offered a tow, which he accepted.
He and Katie stayed aboard the dory, to steer, and
to be on the safe side I didn’t go over about 3
knots. The other two Chebaccos tried to sail but
eventually gave up and motored as well. However, as
we went south down the east shore of Sucia, a brisk
wind sprang up from the southwest, and a choppy sea
came up. We followed Randy and Ryan in Bluster
through the narrow, winding pass separating Ewing
Island from Sucia, then across Echo Bay. The dory
was towing well, but I was worried about rounding
the point from Echo to Fossil Bay, where we’d be
fully exposed to the wind, now blowing strongly. As
we came around the point, I slowed the engine to try
and keep the dory from plunging quite so much, but
Wayward Lass’ bow was getting blown off course, so
in the end I had to speed up again. However, the
dory stood it all very well and once we were on the
windward side of Fossil Bay, we let go the tow and
they sailed the rest of the way.
As we approached the head of the bay, I saw a
very traditional looking small boat at anchor. My
first thought was that they should be part of our
group, and my second that they were!
| Feather at anchor – nice
harbour furl there, guys! The red Chebacco
behind is Full Gallop. It’s amazing how
these Chebaccos keep appearing in the
pictures, isn’t it?
(J. Kohnen photo) |
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Alan and Glen Woodbury had launched that morning
from Bellingham, after finding the Lummi ramp didn’t
have enough slope at low tide. Not having a motor,
they had had to do some rowing, and had only arrived
a short time before the rest of us. After a quick
hello, I dropped Maureen on shore and anchored well
out, as the next low tide was predicted to drop
quite a bit.
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Wayward Lass at
anchor, with the north wind showing her
flags to advantage. The blue flag at the
masthead is the burgee of the Western Oregon
Messabout List. (J. Kohnen photo) |
What little remained of the afternoon was spent
hanging out, chatting, and admiring the boats all
over again. There should be a word for that –
something like “messing about in boats” but without
actually doing anything. Can we say “messabouting”?
Is that a verb? It is now!
That evening, before dark, we shanghaied a
passing couple and the Mrs. was good natured enough
to take some (a lot of) group photographs with a
variety of cameras. It’s surprisingly hard to get 17
people to look in the same direction and smile all
at once!

The three at the back on the left are John
Kohnen, Chuck and Sharon (Shay) Gottfried, and
the three at the back on the right are John
Ewing, Alan Woodbury and Randy Wheating. In the
middle, next to Shay, are Cameron Bishop, his
dad Dean, (almost out of sight) then Frank
Mabrey in the floppy white hat, Glen Woodbury in
kilt and balmoral, Dan and Kirk Coleman and
RyanShellborn. In front, from left to right are
myself (Jamie Orr), Katie Powell, my wife
Maureen, and Katie’s dad Gary.
(photo by the nice lady) - (click image for
larger version)
Then we “messabouted” some more,
finishing up at Dean and Cameron’s fire with a bag
of marshmallows. And that was the end of another
excellent day!
On Sunday the sky was clear and it promised to be
a hot and sunny day. After two days with lots of
time on the water, some people were looking forward
to hiking the island’s trails and seeing the sights
from dry land. However, as some boats were leaving
for home at noon, including Bluster, we
arranged to get the three Chebaccos out there for a
photo-shoot. Randy and Ryan were on Bluster,
Alan, Dan, Maureen and I were on Wayward Lass
and Chuck, Shay, Glen and John Ewing were on
Full Gallop. Leaving with Bluster were
John Kohnen in Pickle and Gary and Katie in
their Gig Harbor Dory.
Since John K. is well known for his
skill behind the lens, he was the obvious choice for
the unofficial post of official photographer, and he
kindly delayed his departure for Lummi to capture
three Chebaccos in company.
| Here’s a sight not seen
very often – three Chebaccos in a row!
That’s Bluster in the lead,
followed by Full Gallop, with
Wayward Lass bringing up the rear.
(J. Kohnen photo) |
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We sailed, briefly, more or less in
formation, but a prevailing competitive spirit made
it hard to keep station for long, and things got a
little disorganized! Keeping everyone together was
sort of like herding cats. We realized the
photo-shoot was over when John gave up on us and
turned for Lummi and home.
However, we sailed together long enough to find
that there wasn’t a lot of difference between the
boats. I will say that Chuck’s Full Gallop did
extremely well considering they only launched a week
earlier and were still making adjustments. Maybe we
can arrange to get all three together again and do
some serious, and slightly more organized, sailing!
As I mentioned, John had left for Lummi,
following Gary and Katie Powell. Randy was last seen
motor-sailing to catch them up as Chuck and I turned
back to Fossil Bay.
I should mention that while we were
still maneuvering around, Joe Morris had arrived in
Beachcomber and snapped a few pictures as well,
before heading into the bay. When the rest of us got
back, he was pulled up on the beach, getting into
the talking about boats thing. He’d had other
commitments for the weekend, but he and Margaret
found enough time to make a flying visit. They’d
launched at Anacortes and only took an hour to cover
the 20 odd miles to Sucia, so flying is the right
word! Joe is building a modified Bolger Micro, so
next time we see him he’ll be moving a lot slower.
After an hour or so, Joe and Margaret climbed back
in the tri-hull, fired up the big outboard and were
on their way home.
We had one more departure that day. Frank left
late in the afternoon for Orcas, travelling under
oars in his Gig Harbor Whitehall. However, rowing a
mere two miles and a bit would be nothing to a man
who, the day before, had been there and back before
breakfast!
It’s amazing how quickly habits form. After
supper, everyone found themselves at Dean and
Cameron’s fire, doing that messabout thing again. We
talked about what the tide would be doing the next
day, and when we should leave to take advantage of
it. For some reason, I couldn’t get agreement on a
4:00 am start, but we did reach a consensus on 6:00.
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I don’t see any pictures
of our fireside gathering by night, so
here’s one by day, with Alan, Dean and
Cameron in attendance.
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I woke up at four anyway. I couldn’t
go back to sleep so I got dressed and went for a
walk, tiptoeing around the other tents so as not to
wake everyone up. The bay was absolutely still, and
it was very pleasant just to sit and watch as the
sky brightened.
At five everyone else emerged from their tents,
and we all got breakfast underway. By six that was
over and the tents had disappeared. Loading was well
in hand, but no one was getting too excited about
deadlines. Our now diminished fleet got underway
about 6:30, with the exception of Full Gallop, whose
skipper and crew had decided to tarry a while. We
couldn’t leave without saying goodbye though, so
Wayward Lass motored around them while her
skipper gave Chuck a friendly shout. A single finger
appeared through the hatch and replied in the same
spirit – but Chuck finally did haul himself erect
and see us off.
Dean and Cameron, in their Bantam,
were travelling with Alan and Glen in Feather.
Both boats were heading southeast for Lummi.
Maureen, John Ewing and myself were again in company
with Kirk and Dan in their Davidson as we motored
northwest. We wanted to pass north of Waldron in
order to visit Stewart Island, so we were crossing
the current as well as using it to help us along. A
light wind appeared, followed closely by sails, but
we kept motoring as well, as we wanted enough margin
to avoid the islet between Waldron and Skipjack,
surrounded by numerous rocks. There was a commercial
boat with some gear I couldn’t identify between us
and Skipjack. It had a line over the bows, that I
thought at first was an anchor, but they may have
been hauling in on it as the boat appeared to move
forward, although that could have been an illusion
caused by the tide sweeping us sideways. It also had
lines out astern, but no floats for a net – a
mystery. In any case, I went south of it, while Kirk
passed to the north. He had the best of it, as I had
to turn into the wind and motor hard to clear the
obstacles between Waldron and Skipjack, while Kirk
and Dan passed north of Skipjack altogether. But
once clear, we both had the benefit of a good strong
tide, and the GPS gave us a better than 8 knots over
the ground.
The wind continued, gradually getting stronger.
Not long after passing Waldron we were able to shut
off the motors, but still made good progress with
wind and tide moving us along. Even when the wind
became light the current still kept up a good pace.
Once we turned into Prevost Harbor on Stuart Island
we lost the current and ghosted in to dock with a
sweeping u-turn into the wind. We had to call off
some well-intentioned power boaters who were sure we
were going to crash, and came running to grab the
boom as it swung out over the dock!
We didn’t stay long. Kirk and Dan
were keen to get started on the drive home, and we
agreed there was no need to travel together, with
such good weather and only a short sail left. They
left first, then we also powered out of the harbour,
with a short detour to admire a big schooner that
was making sail. We continued motoring as far as
Turn Point at the northwest end of the island, then
shut down and started sailing. Kirk and Dan were
well ahead by this time, and drew further away as
they motor-sailed across Haro Strait. A large
freighter was coming up the strait, and there wasn’t
enough wind to be sure of getting safely across its
bows, so we turned south until we were sure of
passing well behind it.
We had a quiet but enjoyable sail across the
strait, passing south of Gooch Island on the other
side. The wind strengthened from the north and the
flood tide was making itself felt by this time,
giving us a good boost up the east side of Sidney
Island. We were able to clear the end of the spit
and carry straight on to Sidney without tacking. We
cleared Customs at the Port of Sidney Marina, then
motored directly to the boat ramp, arriving there
not long after one o’clock.
What a great weekend that was! Good
sailing, good company, good everything. My heartfelt
thanks to everyone who came out and made it such a
good time.
And everyone who came has agreed we should do it
again next year, so the 2005 Sucia Small Boat
Rendezvous will take place next July 8th to 11th!
See you there, everybody!
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Postcript: This may be the most
written-up rendezvous in recent history! I’ve added
some links to other sites where others have posted
their experiences and/or photographs.
PS Terry Lesh:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MessaboutW/message/4891
John Kohnen:
http://www.boat-links.com/Sucia/
Kirk Coleman:
http://schools.sd68.bc.ca/PLVL/Div2/Sucia/suciaphotos2004.html
Gary Powell :
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TSCA-Puget/message/796
Glen Woodbury:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TSCA-Puget/message/801 |