|
Quite arguably
one of the world's most photogenic places,
Shakotan is a somewhat remote penninsula off
the east coast of Hokkaido. It's accessible only by car or
bus (and a pretty slack-assed bus system it is on this side
of Japan, coming round just two or three times a day) but
in my humble opinion, is more than definitely worth the effort
and planning it takes to get there. Unlike almost every other
place I visited in Japan, the pace of life slows to a crawl
in Shakotan. People live life just to live it, catch fish
just to eat them, and boil themselves in some hot-as-heck
beachfront hot springs just to....uh.....boil themselves.
Still way off the beaten path for backpackers and money-burning
package tourists alike, there you can really get a sense of
what life might have meant to Japanese people before the war.
The few people who live and work in Shakotan never fail to
crack a smile at a stranger, the seafood comes quite literally
straight out of the water and into your stomach, and the scenery
is no less than amazing. Shakotan is famous for it's "Uni",
or Sea Urchin, so if you're into extra-slimy, raw seafood,
this is your Mecca.
There's only one
hostel in the little fishing village of Yobetsu
(the closest town to the Shakotan area), a house that obviously
survived the war and has been kept up really nicely by a fisherman's
family. It's a simple joint, and from the photos on the wall,
you can tell there's a long history of summer backpackers
(almost all Japanese) who ventured to Shakotan for some R
and R. For 2700 yen (about $23 US) you get a tatami room to
yourself with a view of the town and a breakfast and dinner
that is TO DIE FOR. I was stuffed silly at this place by a
very kind "hostel mother" . It was some of the best
home cooked seafood I've ever have the good fortune to eat.
The lovely lady even drove me over to an outdoor hot spring
right down on the beach so I could boil my oversized, fish-filled
gut after the meal. Now that's good backpackin', folks. Shakotan
has one road and only a couple of real trails for hiking,
but if you don't mind hiking down the lonely highway (it's
just two lanes and has little or no traffic), you could spend
hours by the cliffs clicking photos of the rocks peeking out
of the turquoise-tinged sea. Just go there, people. GO!
Shakotan
Youth Hostel site
|