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Design-tailored suits separate the men from the boys by Guy Babineau
“If people turn to look at you on the street, you are not well dressed.” Ironically, this quote came from Beau Brummel, the most visible fashion plate of his day. Brummel was an early 19th century aristocrat, confidant of the Prince of Wales, and a dandy who created the vogue for men’s fine tailoring. He almost single-handedly brought the world’s attention to Savile Row. (He also, they say, introduced the Prince Albert, a penis “dressing ring” that secured his John Henry against his leg, accommodating the tight pant crotches popular at the time.)
The thinking behind Brummel’s statement was that a man should be well-groomed and pleasing to look at but that he should fade into the background, allowing the woman in his presence to take centrestage. Whether Brummel walked his talk is debatable but there is an undeniable appeal to the old-fashioned romantic perception of the man’s man as quiet yet strong, a gentleman who knows what he’s about and remains true to that knowledge in every aspect of his behaviour and deportment. No male bonding in a sweat lodge for this fellow. No getting in touch with his feminine side either because it is already effortlessly inherent to his sense of self. While other men may come from Mars, this guy is down to Earth and consequently closer to Venus. You don’t call him “dude.” You don’t call him “man.” You call him “Sir.”
Lots has changed since the days of Beau Brummel. Our contemporary version of sexy, sartorial subtlety is hands- down a well-crafted suit. The two current trends in fashion are divergent; the wildly way-out colours and shapes of the casual 1960s versus a suit-and-tie Renaissance. Casual Fridays are going the way of the dodo. Men are rediscovering the self-possession and dignity that comes from wearing suits.
Designer label and otherwise, off-the-rack suits cater to trends, often don’t address the diverse shapes men come in and contradict the notion of endurance and personal style. That is why some men choose the services of a design tailor. This can prove to be less expensive than buying label and more cost-effective than going to a traditional tailor.
What, you ask, is the difference between a design tailor and a traditional tailor?
Tailoring probably began in France in the 13th century, when tunics were replaced by coats cut to the shape of the human body. Hence the word tailor from the French tailler, meaning ‘to cut’. Traditional tailors went the whole nine yards, so to speak, fitting, designing, cutting and sewing each outfit by hand. Design tailors help clients select styles, measure and cut the fabric, but have someone else do the labour-intensive sewing, usually several suits fitted for the same person at a time. Middle-man and labour costs are minimized, and the client gets a sophisticated wardrobe tailored to his specific dimensions, body language and movement, at a comparatively affordable price.
“I usually do a few suits at a time for my clients, which can reduce the overall cost by as much as one third,” said Steve Pelman, the sole proprietor of Samsons Tailors (1240 Seymour Street), although Pelman prefers to think of himself as a “suitmaker” rather than a tailor. Designer suits are priced in the stratosphere, from $1,500 to $2,500 (rough ballpark figures). Pelman can create suits in the $650- $1,250 range depending on the fabric and number of suits.
Among Pelman’s clients are actor Patrick Stewart (Star Trek’s Jean Luc Picard) and the motivational jaw line Tony Robbins. Pelman has been making suits for twenty years. He left a career as a jazz musician to take over his father’s tailoring business, which was started in 1951. Pelman takes a unique approach to the craft of design tailoring, integrating a background in psychology. He even produces a newsletter called The Philosophy of Fit. He explained his tailoring philosophy over herbal tea in his street level live/work studio crowded with sewer’s dummies, suit and tie samples, and bolts of fabric from Ermenegildo Zegna, Cerruti, Tallia Di Delfinio and other top-of-the-line suppliers.
“You’ve got to get past the visuals. That makes up for 80% to 90% of decision-making. But look what happens when people choose relationships solely on that basis.”
According to Pelman, men have more shape than women (due to musculature) but don’t know it. Women, though, have better posture. A truly well-made suit should adjust to one’s posture but, “Men will adjust their posture to fit the suit, and think they look great. It’s an illusion. Aesthetics and discipline play equal roles in good tailoring,” said Pelman.
He is a believer in the integration of right brain/left brain thinking, a belief he applies to his artisanship. His clients benefit from this attention to details. Some people say God is in the details, others say the devil. In Pelman’s shop, satisfaction is in the details.
Pelman is particularly concerned that men make informed decisions. His website (2suit.com) offers plenty of advice, and there is a cool game that—while you play— teaches you about what to look for in a well-made suit. Men's Tailoring The Man Who Shot Ziggy Stardust Boss Hugo Boss Ken: The Ultimate Male Model Men's Shoes Heatherette The Duffer of St. George The Men of 2003 © Guy Babineau 2003-2004
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