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SKW'LAX POWWOW
Celebrating First Nations culture in B.C.'s Shuswap region
by Guy Babineau

A dazzling blue sky arcs over the rocky peaks of the 
Monashee Mountains, whose dry slopes descend gently to 
the sandy shoreline of Lake Shuswap. The smoky aroma of 
burgers on the grill, salmon barbecue, bannock and
homemade stew mingles with the piquant scent of SPF skin 
lotion and insect repellent. Swells of laughter and 
conversation are punctuated by inaudible announcements 
from the PA. Kids wearing bathing suits scramble
to splash in the lake's clear, warm water.

Next to the campground, home on this hot July weekend to 
a temporary village of RVs, teepees and tents, one lone 
pine tree stands in a grass clearing. This is the axis around 
which a weekend-long celebration of drumming, song, 
dance, games and storytelling has begun. Dressed in 
traditional regalia of buckskin, feathers and beadwork, First 
Nations people from across the continent parade around the 
pine in a dramatic procession. The Grand Entry kickstarts 
the weekend-long Skw'lax Powwow by introducing 
aboriginal performers to native and non-native spectators
from as far away as Europe.

In recent decades, North American powwows have grown 
in popularity, size and number. They are an opportunity for 
First Nations people of various cultures to celebrate their 
traditions and catch up with friends. Or to compete: many 
powwows now offer cash prizes for drumming and 
dancing. But 2002's Skw'lax Powwow is different. Every 
four years, nearby Adams River is the site of a huge salmon 
spawning run. The powwow honours this phenomenon by 
focusing on celebration rather than competition.

The 280 members of the Skw'lax, also known as the Little 
Shuswap, comprise one of 17 bands known collectively as 
the Secwepemc people. Semi-nomadic, the Secwepemc 
survived by fishing, hunting and trading. Today, the 
Skw'lax reserve about 10 kilometres east of Chase is home 
to the popular powwow. The 72-room Quaaout Lodge, on 
reserve lands, features a replica of a traditional pit house. 
Salmon baked in clay is served at its 4-star restaurant. As 
an alternative to camping, visitors can stay here or at the 
HI-Shuswap hostel 

For more information on the Skw'lax powwow, held the 
third weekend of July, call the Little Shuswap Band at 250-
679-3203. 

Originally published in WHERE magazine

© Guy Babineau 2003-2004

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