Maytag Control Board Problem? Blown R11 or Q6 ?
Maytag Control Board Problem?

R11 Resistor Blown?

(Click on the picture for more detailed views)

Following Models:


{ What's your model?}

( if yours is not on the list it might help someone else fix their machine for less than $400)

Q6 Smoked?


I'm really pleased I bothered to load this web page...
See some of the responses

since Jan 2004

Page last updated:
May 2006

Maytag Problems

Hope it helps.

Share your questions and Solutions on the NEW
Bulletin Board. As I am getting quite a few questions I am now testing this new Board.
Thanks Maytag Forum

Well after nearly two years of ownership (2003-2005), my own Maytag, with new R11 and Q6, the relay modification and a $10 surge protector, was still working! I just moved house (summer 2005) and the new owner insisted on the Washer and Dryer, so I can't really let you know if it's still going any longer ...I have invested in a NEW LG Washer and Dryer and they are going great, so far, the LG on high speed spin is quieter than the Maytag on normal wash cycle and my better half has now stopped giving me ear ache too, so it's a winner all round so far.

If you have comments or advice for others via the Feedback page: E-mail

I would like to add a Big Thank you to all those that have taken the time to contribute or have sent me their appreciation and feedback, it was a pleasure to know that over 40,000
@ Jan 2006 people have already visited these few pages and so many have saved time and money.

Please note a recent e-mail for claims for class actions details are now listed.

Please Note: I'm apologize to those of you who e-mail me requesting assistance with other problems on their machines but I don't fix them for a living, and in most cases I am not familiar with problem I have not encountered myself and therefore have not investigated how to fix them. This particular problem was difficult to find the parts as they burn the only identification. So I thought this page, originally a single short page, might help those unlucky enough to have the same experience.
I only fix things to keep the better half happy!

May 17th, 2006 Update

Canadian Class Action

The Administrator is not permitted to accept Claim Forms postmarked after August 6, 2006.

Class Claim After February 6, 2006

If you are experiencing a Class Claim for the first time AFTER February 6, 2006, you are NOT eligible to participate in this Class Action Settlement. For any Maytag product issues experienced after February 6, 2006, please contact Maytag Canada at 1 800 688-2002.

Look here for full details

Note:Thanks to Daniel for passing this on with his email of 17th May 2006.

Sept 14th, 2004 Update

Now Maytag will fix this problem for free! (labor and parts).
Read Bin's latest e-mail, Thanks Bin.

Nov 12th 2005
Update on machine over 5 years old

Feedback from visitors

Sorry I can't reply to all personal requests but it's not my main line business, I'm just another ticked off Maytag Owner like you.

The feedback is growing rather long, but well worth reading, as there's a lot of free info in there from loads of people successfully repairing their own machine...

Good luck with your repairs, I hope it all helps, and thank you to all those that took the time to send me photo's as well, I'm sure they are helping someone out there. 40,000 @ Jan 2006, people didn't visit for nothing!

Open the Feedback Page


Parts Required

R11 = 3.9K Ohms {Make sure it's a Carbon/Carbon Film 1/4 Watt or better rated}

Q6 = NTE5657 (600 Volt) {This is instead of the 400 Volt Original!}


Want to see pictures of the parts and where to find them?


These pages are here simply to help anyone who might have one of these machines and would like to try fixing it themselves for a little effort and less than $20. The alternative is the $400 plus for a new Control Board, a door latch mechanism AND a Maytag Engineer call out fee!


Our Neptune MAH3000AWW suddenly stopped executing the spin program but seemed to work otherwise. With 4 kids and no washer life gets interesting so I decide to take a look see if it was one of those simple things washers get, you know the coin or rubber band or something jamming the works, etc...


Anyway opened up the machine could see nothing much, so decide to take a quick look round the Internet for parts...what an interesting find...this machine seems to be a bit of a lemon! Many people seem to have what is described as the R11 Problem.


The problem, it appears, is quite common and also seems to blow the Q6 Triac. (There seems to be a variety of opinions o what the root cause actually is, see later details)


Further investigation for the replacement parts to fix this highlighted that a few parts suppliers seem to be making a nice little earner selling not only the Control Board but the whole door mechanism as well. Some even state the guarantee is invalid on the board if not purchased with the door mechanism at the same time.


Well, I guess your reading this because you too have the misfortune to have the same problem or you wouldn't be reading, so here's my story, and hopefully a few things that might help you on your way to a fix that's not going to empty your pocket.


I discovered that the key information I wanted was difficult to find. The R11 and the Q6, all very nicely marked on the circuit board. Have been smoked....great so what part do we want, a smoked resistor please....and a black thing like this little fella here (point to half a triac!), Sorry it's a what?...Oh a Triac OH great..any sign of a number ...Mmmmm...we can take a guess.


So here's how I fixed my lemon and how some other good guys e-mailed me with more info after I load up my solution on this page. (Maybe not the right one but hey, we can't all be experts in everything so thanks to all those that have bothered to e-mail me and pass on the useful information)'s all here, help yourself and I hope it saves you some time, money and grief from the other half. Good luck.



So you get told "The machines working but, the clothes are coming out wet, doesn't seem to spin" can you take a look?


First useful info - This was found by opening the back of the Switch panel where the Control Board with the R11 and Q6 is located. When I opened my machine I found Maytag had very nicely left a more detailed trouble shooting guide for the engineer...well on this day it was me... Didn't find me a hat ..Somebody must have taken that already on a previous visit ;-)

The next good news was that this details some tests, one of the tests you can use later to test for 120VAC to the Door Wax Motor from the Control Board when in a spin program. This I used to check my new R11 and Q6 worked..


Anyway after a proper look round both the Internet and the machine, you get to spotting the R11...sure enough it toasted, and not too far away there's the Q6 Triac. Now I'm no electronics expert but will try anything if I think there a chance, for a little effort/cash so here we go....


On to the Internet again, just like you I guess, and what do I find...loads of people all with this problem, and not many with the answers, explanation for this little feature or even part it's toasted how do you find out what size the resistor is, or what the triac number really was!


I my case for the Q6 I used the remaining numbers and made a guess after spotting another couple of similar parts on the board. For the R11 one nice person had taken the time to mention a value. (It wasn't exactly correct but it was close and I seem to have gotten away with it.)


A friendly Engineer I phoned took pity and told me to check that the MOTOR Control Board (This is down by the motor near the floor, not the Control board with the R11 up behind the controls) to see if the on board fuse had blown...if this is gone I guess you have more than the simple R11 problem and, I'm guessing it's getting close to a new motor and other problems leading to a new machine. So anyway my Motor was running and the Fuse was OK. Based on this I decided to try fixing the Control Board on the basis that if this works we have fixed the most expensive item and machine might be worth saving!


As is usual I need to get this going quick and have to drive all over town to to find the last triac on the shelf and pack of resistors. Anyway my luck was in and after soldering them on and running the door test, fantastic 120VAC comes on when on the spin program.


I figure that all the talk on the Internet about changing the door mechanism means that the Door Wax Motor is the likely problem, so to stop it blowing again I figure a relay to reduce the current draw through the circuit might help. Well it certainly can't make it any worse now can it?


After a week or so I get a great e-mail from Roy (Thanks Roy) the e-mail is about 'THE REAL PROBLEM'

Now I did have my suspensions about a simple door wax motor, and a plastic door lock with 2 micro switches being the cause.


Below is Roy's Solution and it's based on there being an over voltage that blows the Triac. Solution a 600V instead of the 400V original. There is now another useful e-mail from Mike who suggests that the Wax Motor is indeed to blame.


I personally added a relay to reduce the load on the circuit with the intention of eliminating the wax motor from blowing the circuit.


My Personal Choice.

- With all the information gathered I would buy the Q6 600V Triac and R11 Resistor as the cost is minimal (Roy's Info)

- Buy a surge protector as it's less than $10. (Roy's Info)

- Add my Relay option as it removes the load from the Circuit Board (Mike's Info)

- Maybe add a fuse to the wax motor circuit. (Mike's Info)



Where can I buy those parts?

Look for a local Electronic Components or Hobby shop. You might even try Radio Shack. Or just ask around, someone will know someone whose handy with a soldering iron who knows where to buy the components. (Offer them a beer, this usually works well.)

There are on-line component websites that they can be ordered as well. (Check out the feedback, many have sent in where they found them)


Following several e-mails from the ladies looking to DIY, good for you. Here's some help, if you need it.

Lady's - When trying to seek help in borrowing a soldering iron and/or buying the parts required.

Ask around for someone who has a really small circuit board soldering iron...if they have one of these and know what a circuit board is they are likely to be able to help and know where to get the parts. They might even ask the question, "and what are you trying to do" Oh....have a couple of beers on standby, at this point show them the Control Board (smile) and the back of the envelope where you wrote down the Parts Required above. ;-)



Maytag Washer Manual

Here is a PDF of the Manual for the MAH3000

Useful Sites


I checked these Dec 2005, please let me know if you found anything useful you would like to share. Thanks. E-mail




My original attempt to fix the thing!
(Originally written and posted - Jan 2004)

This includes adding a relay in the hope it might save it going again.

{I still think the Relay and maybe a fuse will help stop the Wax Motor blowing, and if Roy's right the 600V Triac to stop a voltage surge blowing the Control Board or the surge protector to limit the problem. Once you have all the info make you own mind up what's a good idea. Good luck. }

After posting this on the web to help other unfortunates ROY sent me his STAR e-mail.

I left this in for amusement at at my attempts to save myself the cost of a new machine


This is my attempt at a preventative fix by adding a relay, pre-Roys e-mail. On the assumption that the door wax motor was causing the problem.

I now, like Roy, think the door lock is a Red Herring and just another way yo move more parts and save embarrassment.


I leave you to make up your own minds.




The R11 resistor† and the Q6 Triac (both blown) fault that stops the Door from Locking, this in turn stops the door locked switch from allowing the machine from operating the spin cycle.

This is the (apparently) well known design feature built into these machines.


Well thanks to a couple of websites I have a repair that's working (As I am updating this itís now 13 days and over 25 washes now, with 4 kids itís gets used!). So I would like to pass on the following modification and parts needed for the cheap fix. (Instead of the new Control U$170+ and the New Door Mechanism U$70+)


As listed on the Maytag Club Chat by Chris Jones (Thanks Chris) the burnt beyond recognition R11 resistor seems fine replaced with †a 3.6K ohms (Another person asked about Wattage it looked like 1/8 of a watt but I replaced it with 1/4 Watt, well it did seem to blow a little easy!), and the Q6 Triac, mine was burnt and difficult to read but there are a couple of others on the circuit that Read MAC 97A6. My local electronics shop looked up and equivalent NTE 5656 which I can report works just fine. (Use the part mentioned above, NOT the values described here.)


As I have seen reports that you must change the Door WAX Motor or the whole door assembly I guess there is a current problem that blows the R11 and Q6 on the Control Board (This is the Control Board up top with the timer and switched and NOT the Motor Control down the bottom, Thank Chuck for spotting this little error in my previously hurried update.)


My personal upgrade is to add a 120VAC Relay, as my understanding and examination of the Control Board appears to be blowing the Board due to too much current though it to the door wax motor. Now I donít know why holding current on this door wax motor should blow the circuit but can just guess that it will do it again. This is confirmed by all those reports that you must change the door wax motor or the whole door assembly, which in my personal opinion simply replaces the door wax motor! Now as my door wax motor tested OK I could see no point in paying $25 for a new one when a cheaper solution was possible to stop the circuit pulling the overload and blowing the new R11 and Q6 again! So here follows my simple upgrade to prevent you blowing the Control Board again.


(Small print - Please do NOTattempt this if you are not up to it! There is no guarantee either expressed or implied, or for the accuracy of the information contained here. The entire risk as to the success of your DIY upgrade is with you. Should the upgrade fail to work on your machine, you assume the cost of all necessary servicing, repair or correction.)


First Task is to buy the R11 and Q6 and solder them into the BoardÖto Test disconnect the Door Wax Motor Wires and check for 120VAC across this when set to a Spin Program and the start is operated. Oh, a very good repair guy mentioned that it is worth checking the MOTOR control Board down the bottom, it has a built on fuse, if this is blown it might mean this need replacing or worse itís a motor problem. So check this is OK before you go too far into all this.

Right, how to add a relay to stop the current draw through the Control Board.

If you did not find the circuit diagram and advanced diagnostics in the back of the control panel when you opened it (Thanks Maytag, this was useful) then here is a link that might be useful to decode the Wires etc. on the upgrade detailed below.


See ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC Section 9 for Circuit Diagram. Manual for the MAH3000


Cut the BR14 about 6" from the Control Board plug and use the Control Board Side to activate a relay with neutral from WH13 (This appears at the TIMER plug), then use a LIVE Relay input (from the back of the Start/Stop Switch) BK27 and the relay normally open output to the Door WAX Motor on the original BR14.


I can't say if this will stop the circuit failure but it might help with any short or over amp failure of the Door WAX motor, and in my case saved be buying a new one as it appeared to work fine. †

We'll just have to wait and see, but itís looking good.


Hope this helps at least one other person, Thanks.


Well it seems to have helped a couple of people already, and my machine still runningÖall for less than $20.


Yeah - Right!

Last Updated: 17 May, 2006

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