After removing the dash and tagging all the wires, see the Dashboard" section, unplug the rear tailights from the fuse box. You may want to remove the brake pedal and booster, see the "Brakes" section, for easier access. Disconnect battery. From the motor side of the firewall remove the bolt in the middle of the fuse box. Pull on the wires this will unplug the headlights, wipers, alternator, and starter. From the passenger side of the firewall unscrew the two screws in the fuse box. The fuse box is now disconnected from the car.

    Lay the wiring harness out on a work bench. Using a small pair of scissors cut away all the tape holding the wires together. Working from the furthest wires out work your way back to the fuse box cutting away wires you no longer need. Be careful when cutting out ground wires. They all interconnect at a point halfway down the harness. If you cut the connection out you will end up having to solder a dozen ground wires back together. I removed all the interior lighting, the radio and speaker wires, the heater and a/c wires, all the wires to the gages in the center of the dash. I only kept the wires going to the brake pedal, steering column, and the speedometer printed circuit. I removed the wires from the printed circuit that indicated oil, temperature, and fuel. I will be installing new gages with the racing accessories harness. Tie wrap the wires neatly back together. The wiring harness is now only 2 feet long. Remember to leave the main heater wire if you plan on using it for the racing accessories (not recommnded).
    The back up lights will need to be routed to a switch on the dash or to an automatic switch on the new shifter. B&M shifter reverse light switch is an added option.
    Next remove the oil and temperature wires from the harness in the engine compartment along with heater and a/c wires and any other redundant wires. Re-install the fuse box, plug in rear lights. From the engine compartment plug engine compartment harness into back of fuse box and tighten bolt. See the "Brakes and Steering Column" sections for further assembly. Price $0.00

    After installing each fuse I run wires to individual swithes on the dash. LED lit switches are recommended. The purpose of running individual switches from a remote fuse panel is to be able to perform two main functions (providing you did not opt to use the heater wire). First the temperature gage, water pump, and cooling fan can be left on to cool the car down between runs. Secondly, by switching off the ignition, you can still bump the motor over with the starter without the engine starting.
    You then run a wire from each switch to its corresponding accessory. The line lock switch is located on the shifter shaft, see the "Line Lock" section.
    The price will vary depending on accessory locations and amount of wire used. I purchased my fuse box and switches from Cole Hersee and the bulk wire I bought for 20 cents a foot at my local auto parts store. You can purchase 4 basic colors. I bought 20 feet of each color. I also recommend soldering all connections to protect against vibration. The six connectors I used from my MSD multi spark kit. Total cost $68.00