Remove heater box or a/c box assembly. It will leave a hole in the dash as pictured above. You can purchase this particular piece of metal already fabricated from several places I have seen on the internet. Fabricating your own is very easy. Iit is a flat piece of metal with no bends. Take a piece of sheet aluminum. Lay the heater box on it and trace around the outer edge with a Sharpie pen. Drill holes through the existing heater box and continue on through the sheet metal. When all the holes are drilled cut to shape using tin snips.

    Apply a gasket sealant around the firewall surface and bolt the metal on using the original heater box bolts.

    Cut out rear metal from rear window sill to axle hump behind rear seat. See the removing "Weight" section. Measure acoss the back of the car at the widest point. Measure from window sill straight out and from hump to where the metal angles back to the window, add these measurements together. Go to your local sheet metal shop and have them cut you this piece of aluminum and bend it, at one of the measurements you added together. The bend will be appx 75 degrees.

    Fit it in the back of the car and cut out around wheel wells. Pop rivet into place. NHRA rules state that the driver must be sealed off from the trunk if batteries or fuel cell is placed in it. To seal it off, place a trouble light in the trunk, smear joint and body sealer anywhere you see light shining through. The trunk is now sealed off. Tip: When building a race car, the frame work is generally done before the sheetmetal, but I found it was much easier in this case to install the rear firewall before installing the the 6 point roll bar.

    Placing a trouble light under the car smear joint and body sealer on the floor anywhere you see light coming through. I applied rock guard on the floor afterwards as you can see in the picture.
    I also cut the spare tire well out of the trunk and covered it with a flat piece of aluminum. I will be placing a battery in that spot. See the "Wiring" section.
    When the roll bar was installed, see "Rollbar" section, the welder cut six holes in my floor to attach the six point roll bar to the frame. He welded the sheet metal back in the car but left holes. I filled it in with scrap aluminum and glued it in place with joint and seal compound. Make sure no light can be seen coming through around the roll bar entry points.
    The inside of the doors are also covered in aluminum. I had to relocate the inner door handles because of the roll bar. See the "Doors" section. Price $118.89