The brakes are divided into three parts, 1) brake master and booster, 2) front brakes, and 3) rear brakes. See also the "Line Lock" section. I am not going to explain how to bleed brakes but will give you one helpful tip. I took a piece of aquarium tube and put it on the bleeder screw and put the other end in a half a cup full of brake fluid. I had another person pump the brakes until bubbles stopped appearing in the cup. Then tightened the bleeder screw. I did this on each wheel then went around the car and did a regular bleed.

    You can see the line lock located below the steering box coupler. The rerouting of lines and chosen location will be explained in the "Line Lock" section. The first thing we will discuss is the removal and installation of the power booster and brake pedal. The power booster was removed to make painting and access to wiring harness easier. Unscrew the two nuts holding the master to the booster. Bend the booster out of the way being supported by the brake lines. Try to keep it level as possible to avoid brake fluid spilling out. Unbolt the four nuts from the brake pedal on the inside of the firewall. This separates the booster on the outer firewall from the pedal on the inside firewall. It is best to have someone outside the car to catch the booster so it doesn't fall on the ground. With these pieces out of the way access to the wiring harness on both sides of the firewall is made much easier.

    I installed new rotors, calipers, and pads. The brake lines were in good shape and did not require replacing. Remove the two caliper bolts and brake line. Remove caliper. Pry off the bearing dust cover and remove cotter pin. Unscrew large nut and remove rotor. Clean axle and repack bearings. Replace if necessary. I found a lot of gravel on top of upper control arm. Replace bearings and rear seal, slide rotor on axle. Tighten the large nut to 20 ft. lbs. and back off nut just enough to replace cotter pin. Fill dust cap with grease and gently tap it back into place with a rubber hammer. Install pads in new caliper, slide over rotor, and re-install the two bolts. Re-connect brake line. Repeat for other side. Price $112.66

    Since I opted to install a Moser 9" Ford rearend, see the "Rear End" section, I had to change the rear brakes to a 1977 Impala. The reason for this is the backing plates on a G-body are not removable. New backing plates were $115.00 but I purchased a used set from my local wrecker for $40.00. Backing plate assembly is discussed in the "Rear End" section. I replaced everything on the rear brakes, including the brake cylinders, except the drums. It cost $30.00 to have them turned. A 77 Impala and a 80 G-body carry all the same brake components except the backing plates. So if all your rear brake equipment is in good shape just bolt it all back on including the drums. Price for everything, including prices above, $222.07