In 1996, I decided to see a little bit more of Polynesia, so headed off to Samoa and Tonga on my annual month leave. Samoa is stunningly beautiful, exactly what one expects of a tropical island paradise. Unfortunately, not only did I not get much on film – I was too busy taking it all in – I didn't get off Upolu Island. One of these days …

After Samoa, I headed to Tonga. The cemeteries in Nuku'alofa defy description. Graves are decorated with everything from intact pop and beer bottles to shards of the same, to fancy gilt-framed pictures of the deceased, bunting, tapa cloth, tarps – you name it, it's there. Brightly coloured strips of cloth and banners flutter in the breeze, so that the graveyard itself resembles a carnival fairground. And of course, the people are warm and friendly and do not mind total strangers wandering around their graves taking intrusive pictures. It's politic to ask permission beforehand, of course.