The Wapiti Valley

Descent from Dale Earnhardt Dome

The descent from routes on Dale Earnhardt dome can a bit complex. Of course, if the route is incomplete, as for example "Full Throttle", you'll rappel the route to the base! For those that go to the summit, start by rappelling the Wapiti Mainline route to the top of the descent slabs. From the top of pitch eight you can, according to Dave, do one long rappel to a tree at the top of these low angled slabs. If you are doing "Mainline Lite", you can traverse west along a sloping ledge at the top of pitch six to these same slabs.

This descent is somewhat easier and shorter than the slog down from Broadway ledge at the Squamish apron except for the necessity of a fifty foot hanging rappel.

pitch7.jpg

The descent slabs are the low angled bushy slabs to the west of the top of pitch six. You can see them below and to the right of the climber (me) in the picture.

The best plan here is to walk straight down the middle of these slabs to a large tree above the overhang at the bottom. If you like, you can angle even further west and use the bush as handholds, but it will just slow you down and really isn't worth it. Those of you who are used to taking the shortcut down the slabs from Broadway ledge at Squamish will find this descent much less intimidating.

You'll recognize the rappel tree by the slings around it. This is a nasty brutish rappel over the overhang which, so far, seems unavoidable (there's a rumor of a party trying to avoid this by deeking into the bush and making it out long past midnight). So steel yourself and rappel around 40 feet into the bush.

There is a rope eating crack that splits the lip - be sure your rope doesn't get hung up in it or you'll have an epic ahead of you. Make it easier on yourself by continuing the rappel to the end of the rope even though you could bushwhack down this bit if you were a masochistic idiot. Now have fun retrieving your rope.

From here, half scramble and half bushwhack down the line between the trees and the slabs for a few hundred feet until the trail shoots east across an exposed step above a small waterfall. Now you head generally east, but there's one point where the trail simply seems to disappear. When you find that spot, thrash through the bush to the base of the slab there and scramble up to a ledge. This ledge goes back to the top of the ascent slabs, with one discontinuity that involves around six feet of down climbing.

I have yet to do this descent without planting my face in the bush at least once. On the other hand, I haven't felt the absolute need for a rope and I'm 59 years old with my best climbing days well behind me. But please don't let your ego prevent you from rigging up a rope if you or any of your party feel the need for it! Better embarrassed than dead or seriously injured.

Maybe some day a civic-minded party will put some cables or fixed lines here. Feel free!

Ed Seedhouse

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