This is a report on a bicycle trip from Hanoi, Vietnam to Bangkok, Thailand via Laos. It is written to provide some travel information and to show this is a good, easy, interesting and inexpensive area in which to travel. The trip in all ways exceeded expectations, in that people were friendlier, the roads good, prices lower, food and accommodation better than expected and we had no bicycle or health problems.

This trip or a similar trip could be done and enjoyed by anyone in reasonable condition, who can accept things may be different than they are at home and would like to experience and interact with the people and countryside of southeast Asia.

In the report there are links to information (countries and cycling), route information, map,  more detail trip reports and some pictures.

Two of us did the trip, John and myself. Both of us are in our early 60s. John used a hybrid and I used a mountain bike. The time of the trip was from mid October to end November 2001. The trip took 40 days, of which only 15 days were spent cycling. The actual distance cycled was approximately 1400 kilometers. Much of the cycling was on relatively flat roads with little traffic. The last 300 kilometers to Bangkok were done by train. The 25 non-cycling days were spent in various cities, plus an overnight bus / boat trip in Vietnam and a bus trip in Laos.

John and I had originally met on a supported bicycle tour of Tibet and Nepal the previous year. On that trip we often ended up sharing a tent or hotel room. We turned out to be compatible having similar travel styles and interests. Neither of us is into checking out all the museums, temples and monuments, but more into visiting a few and spending most of our time wandering the streets and markets, sitting in cafes watching life being lived in a different society. Our cycling abilities were similar.

John was interested in doing some cycling in Thailand and I was interested in Vietnam. We kept in touch by email as we live in opposite ends of Canada. We agreed a cycling trip from Hanoi to Bangkok would suit us both. So we ended up meeting in Hong Kong and flying onto Hanoi together to start the trip.

Hanoi turned out to be such an enjoyable place, that it was a week before we got around to putting our bicycles together. We both had our bikes boxed at our local bike shop. The shops had done a good job, as the all bike parts were present and had arrived undamaged. On international flights boxed bicycles are normally are accepted without charge as one of the two allowed pieces of luggage by most but not all airlines.

The first 300 kilometers of cycling was down highway 1 to Vinh through delta farmland. Traffic was fairly heavy, mostly trucks and buses. However, it is not necessary to cycle with the vehicle traffic as there is a good shoulder for pedestrians, cyclists and motor scooters. As the area contains a number of towns and many villages, we were constantly cycling in the company of Vietnese cyclists and motor scooters. This however was a pleasant experience for a few days as people were friendly, constantly smiling and saying hello. It was interesting to be caught up in the flow of the local population going about their business.

From Vinh it was 500 kilometers of cycling along highways 8 and 13 to Vientiane the capital of Laos. Traffic was light as this area has only a few small towns and a number of villages. In the six days we spent cycling this section we only saw two other tourists, a Dutch and a Swiss cyclist. The last 25 kilometers in Vietnam and the first 125 kilometers in Laos were the only mountainous part of the trip. The last 280 kilometers followed the Mekong river, although it was not normally visible from the road. The road was a good paved road with the exception of approximately 3 kilometers on the Lao side of the border. Good roads with little traffic, guesthouses available about every 100 kilometers and many roadside food stands made this section of the trip made for ideal cycling. Getting a variety of food was a problem due to communication. Rice and eggs were often the only food we could order due to our inability to communicate in the local language. However, getting a beer, pop or bottled water was never a problem.

Vientiane was a pleasant city in which to spend time. There is some French influence left from the days when Laos was part of French Indo China. This is evident in the architecture of many of the buildings. It also shows up in the quality of food available in restaurants. From Vientiane we took an all day bus ride to Luang Prabang the old capital of Laos. Luang Prabang a world heritage site is full of temples and examples of the French colonial buildings. We spent two days enjoying Luang Prabang including an interesting half-day trip on the Mekong river before returning to Vientiane. 

We finally started cycling again, after 8 very pleasant non-cycling days. Again the roads for the most part were good pleasant cycling roads. There is more traffic in Thailand, but most drivers were friendly and considerate. After 8 days we had cycled to Chai Badan, Thailand. There we took the train to Bangkok with a stop in Ayuthaya. Train travel was easy. Bicycles were easily loaded and unloaded complete with panniers into a baggage car.

People in all three countries were very friendly and helpful. We encountered very little begging or high-pressure sales pitches. Never, did we feel threatened or that people trying take advantage or overcharge us. That does not mean that we did not take the normal precautions. Such as never leaving the bicycles unattended or walking down dark streets alone.

Cycling was on good paved roads, with the exception of about 3 kilometers at the Vietnam Lao border. Traffic was light for most of the trip. Drivers for the most part were friendly and accommodating, often honking and waving as they passed. 

Accommodation in guesthouses and hotels was easily found. Prices ranged from $4US to $35US for two. Quality was from basic too luxurious. Except for one guesthouse the room always had its own toilet and shower or bucket bath. There was never any problem in taking the bicycles into the room or storing them in a secure place. 

Food was not a problem. In the larger towns a restaurant would normally have English on the menu. In smaller places and roadside stands, where communication was a problem one could usually locate some eggs and pot of rice. Pointing to them resulted in getting something to eat. Beer, pop and bottled water were available, almost everywhere. Meals ranged from $1US to $5US, with $5 buying a very good meal in the cities. A 650cc bottle of good beer ranged from $.75US to $2US.

Neither, John nor I suffered any hassles, got sick or had bicycle problems on the trip, not even a flat tire.

Travelling in the three countries was a most pleasant experience, friendly people, interesting country, good roads with low priced accommodation and food. A highly recommended experience. When two guys in their 60's can easily do this trip, then any reasonably fit person could enjoy doing this or a similar trip.

INFORMATION LINKS