CYCLE 2000  Lhasa, Tibet to Kathmandu, Nepal
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INTRODUCTION

This is a report on a bicycle trip from Lhasa, Tibet to Kathmandu, Nepal. There are links to information on Tibet and Nepal, plus some places and items mentioned in the report. Some trip statictics are also included. The menu bar links to a group journal and pictures. Please email, if you have any suggestions or note errors or omissions. 

TRIP OVERVIEW

 This is a report on a bicycle trip from Lhasa, Tibet to Kathmandu, Nepal. It was an organized, exploratory trip run by Creative Travel Adventures Ltd., of Calgary, Alberta, Canada. The trip took place between September 12th, 2000 and October 8th, 2000. Although, this was a supported trip, it was challenging and sometimes difficult. The challenge and difficulty were due to the effect of altitude, rough roads and long hills over high passes. Lhasa is located at 3650 meters and Kathmandu is located at 1300 meters. In between there were six passes to be ridden that exceeded 4500 meters, before riding what is reputed to be the worlds longest downhill at approximately 4600 meters. The total trip distance was approximately 1100 kilometers, of which 750 kilometers were cycled. Approximately, 150 kilometers were paved and the balance ranged from reasonable gravel to very rough gravel. The cycling route was along the Friendship Highway running from Lhasa to Kathmandu, with a side trip to Everest base camp.

No one in the group suffered from serious altitude sickness. However, everyone suffered from the effect of altitude. and had an occasional minor head ache. The effect of altitude was shortness of breath doing almost any activity, such as getting dressed and occasional head aches. However, cycling did not seem to cause any problems, other than deep breathing while maintaining a moderate pace. For a report on the effects of altitude, see altitude and health. Only two people suffered any sickness and this was only a day of feeling rotten, which made cycling more difficult.

cycling group The cycling group, consisted of Peter (age 62), Dave (age 48), Barry (age 27), Derek (age 60), Nipper (age 75), and John (age 62).
Tour leadersCycling tour leaders,, were Sonan (age 44 Nepalese cycling guide) and Steve (age 32 Pipestone tour leader). This was Sonans 19th time to cycle the route. In addition to arranging tours, he operates a bicycle shop in Kathmandu (email)
Tibet staff There were Tibetan staff. A cultural guide assigned by the Chinese government. A driver for the Landcruser (the sag wagon) and a driver for the truck. The truck carried camping gear, cooking gear, food, gasoline, other miscellaneous supplies and support staff. Support staff Other support staff, consisted of a five person Nepalese crew who setup the campsite and did the cooking. The support staff were efficient and always friendly and cheerful. At the end of a hard days cycling, it was a great feeling to spot the camp and to know that very shortly one would be able to collapse on a mattress in a tent, with a cup of hot tea for a rest prior to a good dinner. 

The weather on the trip was very good. The only rain occurred one night, while we were sleeping. When the sun was down, the evenings and early mornings could be cool, requiring warm clothing including gloves. Several mornings we awoke to frost on the tents. However, when the sun came up, the days were pleasantly warm to hot. It was sunny and warm enough to cycle most of the time in shorts and t-shirt. On one day there were head winds strong enough to make cycling extra difficult. 

Most of the Tibetan country side consisted of wide and not so wide valleys connected by mountain passes. The area traveled appeared to be sparsely populated, although Tibetan villages were passed though or visible at various points. A river normally ran through the bottom of the valleys. There was limited farming in the valleys, as the countryside for the most part was dry, dusty and lacking vegetation. Many people ware dusk masks to combat the effects of dust from passing vechiles.

TRIP DETAIL

The trip started with the group meeting in Kathmandu, then spending the following day touring city sights. Individual flights were met and people taken to Moonlite Hotel On the third day, the group flew to Lhasa for four days of sight seeing and acclimatization.

On day 7 the cycling started. It was a relatively easy 80 kilometer ride over mostly paved level roads to the first nights campsite. This was accomplished at an average speed of 20 kilometers per hour.

Day 8 started with a tough 22 kilometer climb over rough gravel roads from 3700 meters to the top of Kambl La pass at 4800 meters. The climb was accomplished at an average speed of 8 kilometers an hour. The descent also over rough roads was also slow due to the need to constantly watch the road and to be constantly breaking. Cycling did not provide much opportunity to view the spectular scenery. To view the scenery, which was a truly spectular required one to stop cycling. The days cycling ended at a campsite on the shore of Lake Yamdroc Tso, which provided and interesting view of a nearby village, the lake and surrounding hills. At various times the campsite was shared with a large herd of sheep.

Day 8 set the tone for many of the cycling days. Some hard climbs, spectular scenery ending at a picturesque campsite, good food and companionship. 

Early afternoon on day 11 we cycled into Gyanatse. Here we enjoyed the comforts of a hotel, walking the streets and visiting the monastery.

Day 12 the bikes were trucked and we rode in the land cruiser to Shigatse. Two nights were spent in a comfortable hotel, with a rest day for sightseeing and checking email. At the hotel were a group of 15 Swiss cyclists, cycling approximately the same route. Also, cycling a day or two ahead or behind were French, Dutch and an English/American groups.

The next rest day occurred on day 20 at Rongbuk monastery, which is within 7 kilometers of Everest base camp. The campsite at 16500 feet which was located just outside the monastery, offered an inspiring view of Mount Everest. The rest day allowed for cycling to base camp. The 7 kilometers took an hour due to rough road conditions. We were extremely fortunate as the day was cloudless, affording a perfect view of the snow covered Mount Everest and the Rongbuk glacier.

On day 21 we drove down from Rongbuk back to the Friendship Highway and the nights campsite. Some of the other groups got a ride in and cycled out, we cycled in and rode out.

Day 22 we rode over the double passes of Tong La South and Tong La North. Tong La North was the final pass and the start of the worlds longest downhill at 4600 meters. The downhill was relatively slow at first, even though it was relatively steep due to the rough road. Then the road turned into a gradual downhill in a valley, with the odd slight uphill. However, the valley had strong head winds making for a difficult ride. The final 30 kilometers to camp were covered in the truck, as daylight was running out and and cycling speed was down to 10 kilometers an hour.

Day 23 continued with downhill cycling and crossing in to Nepal. The scenery had changed from a treeless landscape to a narrow valley with lush vegetation. It seems that the east side of the Himalayan mountains are relatively dry, with the west side getting a lot more moisture.

Day 24 was the last day of cycling, still continuing downhill. It turned quite warm. After a number of kilometers there was a pleasant change in the road. It turned to pavement. At Dolalghat the cycling part of the trip ended. From there we drove to Khuilikhel and the Hill View Resort,  a very pleasant end to the cycling.

SOME TRIP STATISTICS

The following table shows, cycling statistics taken from my bicycle computer. On some days, I was the slowest person in the group, on other days I was not the slowest. 

                --------KILOMETERS -----------------    COMMENTS
 DATE      TRIP   DAY   AVERAGE  MAXIMUM 
Sept 16     19.6     19.6                                               around Lhasa, Tibet
Sept 18   103.6     84.0           20.0            34.3          leave Lhasa, Tibet
Sept 19   145.8     42.2             8.0            32.3          over Khamba La pass
Sept 20   197.5     51.7           13.6            36.6
Sept 21   243.0     45.5           14.2            42.3
Sept 22   283.5     40.5           14.4            42.7
Sept 25   361.9     78.4           14.5            37.5
Sept 26   447.8     85.9           14.1            36.6
Sept 27   486.2     38.4             7.3            31.1
Sept 28   539.7     53.5           14.3            55.2
Sept 29   569.4     29.7           12.1            33.8
Sept 30   600.8     31.4             7.9            26.9           to Rongback monastery 
Sept 1     608.0       7.2             6.1            19.4           to Everest base camp
Sept 3     678.0      70.0          12.4            48.3           over Tong La South & Tong La North 
Sept 4     715.0      37.0            n/a               n/a           to Kodari, Nepal
Sept 5     772.0      57.0            n/a               n/a           end Dolalghat, Nepal
K mark Cum K Dist

                              Altitude
                         Meters     Feet 
Lhasa                  3650   11315 
Tsangpo Bridge   3600   11160 
Khamba La         4794   14861 
Yamdrok Tso      4480   13888 
Karo La              5010   15531
Gyantse               3950   12245
Shigatse               3900   12090 
Tso La                 4500   13950 
Lhatse                  4050   12555
Gyatso La            5250   16275
Shegar                 4350   13485
Tingri                   4340   13454
Gutsuo                 4400   13640 
Tong La North     4950   15345
Tong La South     5200   16120
Nyalam                3750   11625
Zhangmu              2300     7130
Kodari                 1770     5487
Dolalghat               560     1736 
Dhulikhel             1500     4650 
Kathmandu          1300     4030 


LINKS TO OTHER SITES

TIBET AND NEPAL INFORMATION
  • Lhasa, Tibet current weather information
  • Lhasa, Tibet current time
  • Tibet travel information
  • Kathmandu, Nepal current weather information
  • Kathmandu, Nepal current time

  • OTHER BICYCLE TOUR REPORTS

  • Bicycle tour reports

  • NEPAL NEWS  (some news papers and reports  from Nepal)

  • Explore Nepal - local English newspaper published fortnightly. 
  • Kathmandu Post
  • Nepal News.Com - links to daily, weekly, fortnightly, and other newspapers for Nepal.

  • CHINA NEWS (some news papers and reports  from China)

  • China Daily & CBnet - online version of China's English-language paper. Also features CBnet, a for-pay business database
  • China Informed - a daily digest of news on China, Taiwan and Hong Kong.
  • China Top News
  • Digest from Shanghai Newspapers
  • Guang Dong Today
  • Inside China Today - source of daily news, business, politics, and travel information for China.
  • LateLine Headline News - daily news of China, Taiwan and Hong Kong.
  • Ming Pao Daily News

  • TIBET NEWS  (some news and reports from outside Tibet)

  • Tibet Online - operated by the international Tibet Support Group community, providing information on the plight of Tibet and serving as a virtual community space for the movement.
  • Rokpa - presents the work of Dr Akong Tulku Rinpoche in the fields of Tibetan Buddhism, humanitarian aid and therapy.
  • International Campaign for Tibet
  • Free Tibet Campaign - stands for an end to the occupation of Tibet and for fundamental rights of the Tibetan people.
  • Canada Tibet Comittee - seeks to create a structure within which concerned Canadians can work together with their Tibetan friends to develop increased Tibet-awareness in Canada.
  • Tibetan Centre For Human Rights And Democracy - monitors and researches human rights development.
  • Asian Classics Input Project - gathers and provides a collection of ancient Tibetan Buddhist manuscripts.
  • Art of Tibet, The - collection of thangkas (tankas), mandalas and other works of Tibetan and Buddhist art.
  • World Tibet Network News - contains archived articles dating back to 1992. From the Canada Tibet Committee.

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