Wedding Photo tips:
Here I have compiled some tips on using your film cameras as well as digital cameras to better capture the atmosphere and action, as well as to achieve a good exposure and well balanced flash pictures.
Compact Cameras
(or Automatic Cameras)
First of all be prepared for bright sun and low light. The ceremony might be outside in bright sun, and the reception indoors in a poorly lit hall. Buy a few rolls of 400 film and a few rolls of 800 or even 1600.
I won't go too far into the technicalities but I will give you 3 reasons.
1. Compact cameras have very small apertures or F-stops, if you prefer this term. Slower films will prompt the camera to use a slower shutter speed with a given aperture. This will no doubt result in camera shake.
2. Flash. Remember to always use it and don't set it to "red eye reduction", just set it to "always on". Higher film speed allows the camera to use a small aperture, fast speed and a lot less flash for the overall exposure. This means it will only be "fill" flash, which is exactly what we need for a natural look, without the bright flash spots or dark shadows.
3. When you go to the reception use as fast a film as you can. 800, 1600 are great choices. It works the same way as outside in terms of balance with flash, but indoors, it is even more important to have the fastest film. It will allow the camera to pick a wider aperture at a given shutter and film speed to capture some of the ambient light, and not just a bright flash with a pure black background that, I am sure many of you are oh, so used to.If you own a good SLR but never really had the time to figure it out, or if you are comfortable with using it but the responsibility of being the "Friend Photographer" makes you a bit nervous, here are some tips to ensure you get good exposures so you can focus on other things, like composition.
1. Use fast film (400)
2. Use flash. Always.
3. I would set my lens to the widest aperture setting (the smallest number) for tight portraits and to a smaller aperture for full length.
With both use "A" mode. It would be the most useful if your camera is manual.Be more careful with flash. Set the flash to it's Auto Mode and make sure you are always within the range of the flash. Most flashes have a table or an LCD display that tells you the effective distance for each Fstop and film speed.
Meter carefully off something neutral that is under the same light as your subject. Grass works well. The palm of your own hand is great too but requires some compensation.Back to top
The difference between amature and professional gear is not only price. Durability, power, speed, performance, construction; this list can go on for ever. Do not underestimate the knowledge and the physical expense that professionals go to in order to be prepared for the variety of situations at any event, including weddings. In fact, weddings are the most unpredictable.
I will not try to discourage anyone from trying. I do it and I love it. Just make sure you understand what is involved.
If any of you decide to get into it seriously NYI is a good place to start. Another place to learn is Brooks.
For more info regarding specific techniques or products go to manufacturers' sites like Nikon, Canon and so on or email me with a specific question. I will be glad to help.
As I mentioned before, use it. It helps to reduce the contrast between the highlights and shadows and opens up more shadow detail. Many flash and camera combinations today really are what they say "fool proof". If you are lucky enough to have a Nikon SLR and a Nikon SB flash your fill flash photography should be easy, automatic, and accurate. Canons have progressed too. And remember about relationship between flash and film speed, the higher the film speed the less work the flash has to do and the more natural an image will look. Like everything else do not overdo it. I use 400 ISO films and fill flash outdoors, and 800 ISO indoors. That is a good starting point and a great tool when used properly. Consult your camera manual for flash settings and exposure compensation. Normally, I would dial in -1 for my flash. In case you don't have adjustments for the flash, most cameras today have an exposure compensation dial which I would set to +1. Use one or the other but not both.
The choice is huge. A wedding is an important event and this is not the time to look for bargains. And actually, many professional films are not that much more expensive.
I will tell you what I would use and recommend.
Colour:
#1 Film in 100 ISO is, of course, Fuji Reala simply the best film on the market.#2 I would say is Fuji NPC ISO 160
That's it for slow films. Again, this is my opinion only. But I am sure many pro's will share it.
#1 in faster films is indisputably Fuji NPH 400,
an awesome film. The most versatile film ever.
#2 For me there is no #2Going faster still...
New from FUJI is NPZ 800 fantastic film, sharp, tight grain, great colour rendition.
There are even faster emulsions on the market, but this is what I have in my bag.
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B&W films are fantastic materials.
For amateur use I would highly recommend Ilford XP2 which can be processed in a minilab.
Also Kodak T-400CN same story.
If you are familiar with the darkroom, the choice is simply endless.
My favorites are oldies: Tri-X and FP-4 and sometimes TMAX's and Deltas.But for our purpose stay with XP2 and T-400CN
They can be processed quickly and most labs offer prints in sepia tone.These are very popular to put on the tables at the reception or to hand out to guests. One thing to remember is to get faster ISO film in them and a flash. If they are intended for the reception get the 800 ISO kind with a flash. Watch out for the kids getting a hold of them, you might be quite surprised at the pictures you get back.
Using a digital compact camera is very similar to a film one, so most tips given to Compact Cameras will apply. Some things to remember here are:
1) White balance
2) Flash
3) ISO settings
4) Quality settings
If you have a digital camera you already know what these things are and how they effect your images. Just keep an eye on them and take test shots before the ceremony or portraits to see what you are about to get and make adjustments if necessary.Back to top
Can be a real challenge especially if the group is large. Often in a wedding, groups can range from 2 to 200 people. Here is what you do to get everybody.
1. Find a spot where you can be higher than everybody else. If there is no place like that, climb something (most places will have a chair or a bench you could use).
2. The most common position for a group is to line them up like soldiers. It is easy to get away from that static look if you line them up and then bend the group into a half circle. Plus, being slightly above makes it a pretty good basic composition.
After that isolate the bride and the groom by moving them in front or to the side.
There is no formula. Try it and see what works for that particular landscape, but to be higher is a good idea.
3. The more people that are in the group the more closed eyes and bad expressions you can get in a photograph. Therefore shoot more film to insure a variety of choice. To make sure everybody is visible, I usually tell the group that if they can see me then I can see them. They are going to try and peek out and see you, so don't waste time, shoot right away.
Keep your hand on the shutter button and watch everybody as well as you can but mostly focus on the couple. They are the most important.
4. To light a large group is not easy. Use the sun. Try to have the sun about 30 ° behind your shoulder and you should make it. If there is no sun, even better.
5. The lens should be wide enough to cover the area but you shouldn't have distortion at the edges of the frame. So try not to use lenses wider than 28mm.
I prefer 35mm when possible. Use a smaller F stop if you are closer to the group than 10' ( f-11, 1-16).
But if you are far away you will have enough depth of field with a wider aperture like f-5,6 or f-8.Back to top
Lighting is everything.
First of all note that the most favourable conditions for portrait photography is an overcast day. If it is sunny, the best is open shade. You might know this already. The second most important thing to remember is to use flash.
ALWAYS USE FLASH
On a bright sunny day it will open the harsh shadows and will make your portrait look a lot more natural. On a beautifully soft, overcast day it will throw a little catch light in your subject's eyes and will brighten up the colours.
It is a great tool when used properly.
Consult your camera manual for flash settings and exposure compensation. Normally, I would dial in -1 for my flash.In case you don't have adjustments for the flash, most cameras today have an exposure compensation dial which I would set to +1.
Use one or the other but not both.
THE SUN
Be aware of the position of the sun in relation to your subject. It too can be used very creatively. Low morning or afternoon sun can provide beautiful, warm side or back lighting.
High noon may cause harsh shadows. Place your subject in the shade or let them turn their backs to the sun and it will serve you as a hair light. In this case you will be the one facing the sun, so don't forget your lens shade. And remember to use flash.
Many professional photographers use light modifiers on their flashes. Little white boxes or light bouncing gadgets. They are designed to diffuse the light of your flash. It contributes greatly to the overall natural look of your image.
If you follow these simple guidelines, I guarantee your photography will improve dramatically.
Good luck shooting.