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New with the Journal:

02/03/21 - Added old story about housewarming

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02/02/14 - Added the Sayonara Sale section, changed front page story and picture.

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01/12/09 - Messed with themes, added photo buttons. Added New with The Journal section. Added What's New with Me section.

'He built this bridge,' I said. I get a kick out of saying that because it still seems a little magical to me, that anyone could actually build a bridge.

Grandpa Jack and one of his bridges
Jack Nodwell returns to the Hondo bridge over the Athabasca River

Hitting the highway with my Grandpa Jack is like getting a guided tour of a carpenter's house. It's hard to drive anywhere in Alberta without passing something Grandpa Jack built. Here a bridge, there an information booth, beneath the road a culvert.

"What was the toughest job you ever had?" I asked him once, as we drove through the mountains on the way to Calgary.

"The bridge in Hondo," he said. Forty-four years of construction, but he needs no time to think it over. Hondo is the story that every grandchild hears from time to time. Actually he says Honda, or Hondoo. He and Grandma have four or five different ways to pronounce this tiny town north of Edmonton. It’s as if one word isn't enough.

"That was a tough job," said Grandpa Jack. "I'd like to see it again someday."

So one weekend in August, Grandpa Jack and I woke up at 5:30 a.m. at the family cabin near Red Deer. We got into his car with a lot of coffee and struck out for Hondo, over 300 km north.

I had my own motives for this trip. About a dozen years ago at the cabin, the whole family pitched in to dig a drainage ditch. Nobody worked harder that week than Grandpa Jack. Nobody could. He was in his 70s. He a leads without ordering, challenges without competing. But the way he thinks is still a mystery to me.

About 10 years ago I went to what everyone expected to be Grandpa Jack’s deathbed. I hoped there might be a profound secret I could learn. But I was still digging, doing most of the talking myself, when his son Howard came in. Howard looks for oil and restores Hudson cars. They talked for a long time about backing up some truck through the mud in 1959.

So when Grandpa Jack said he'd like to see Hondo again, I saw again the chance I'd missed in the hospital. I wasn't interested in seeing the bridge. But I was interested in seeing Grandpa Jack see the bridge.

Driving north, we talked about the farmers making a living in the run-down trailers that dot the farms north of Edmonton. We passed a tree-planting truck, and talked about the man at the wheel, planting windbreaks all over the province.

Between talking about farms and trucks, I pestered him to talk about things I thought were more important. For example, I asked where he got his sense of right and wrong from.

“Church,” he said. In fact, he said that's where everyone's morality comes from, at least those of us who have it. I've never seen him in a church, but that's what he said.

But Grandpa Jack always hedges when he talks about abstract things like this. "I don't know anything," he says. I've built rafts and dug ditches with him, I once restored a 1972 Pontiac Firebird with him, but I never heard him say any such thing about drill bits or steel rods.

Early in the afternoon we crested a hill and saw the Athabasca River, and Grandpa Jack's bridge stretching across it. He knew it instantly, but from the driver's seat, there was nothing to set it apart from the dozens of bridges we’d already crossed that day. Not to me, anyway. Grandpa Jack would point out the steel spans and the absence of arches. It's obvious if you're looking.

We parked the car and walked out over the river, and I got the story of the bridge again, feeling it hum and groan under our feet as the trucks thundered past.

The bridge was actually his brother's job. Grandpa Jack and his crew were just pitching in to help pour concrete. They were also working full time at Grandpa Jack’s company in Calgary, about five hundred kilometers away. They would finish work, drive to Hondo, work all weekend, and then drive back to Calgary to keep working. The crew slept while Grandpa Jack did most of the driving.

The first problem was the ferry the government provided to shuttle equipment across the river. Grandpa Jack arrived with a dragline, a 12-ton digging machine with its bucket suspended from a cable, and found a ferry so small that if he put the dragline on it, it would sink. So he built a barge.

The finished barge, though, was too heavy for any nearby boat to tow. Grandpa Jack returned with his own speedboat and a towing propeller. But the propeller was designed for an engine that turned the opposite direction. The only way to tow anything with that engine and that propeller was to run the engine in reverse.

To support this, he had a small launch as a rescue boat. Grandpa took it out for a test run and the engine fell off into the river. In need of a rescue boat himself, kilometers later he scrambled onto the bank and had to walk back to the camp through mosquito-infested marshes.

"Hop into the river if you like," Grandpa Jack told me. "Find yourself a new engine, only used once."

Winter came, and they began pouring concrete by driving equipment out onto the frozen river. If they didn't solve the problems and finish before the river thawed, they'd go broke. So they solved them, finished, and got out of there. Walking across the bridge 37 years later, Grandpa Jack told me he'd never crossed it before.

At the end of the bridge, we met a construction crew installing a new drainage ditch to preserve the banks.

"This is my grandpa, Jack Nodwell," I told them. "He built this bridge." It still seems a little magical to me, that anyone could actually build a bridge. But the construction guys didn't seem impressed. Every bridge is built by somebody, maybe somebody whose life hangs from the spans of the bridge in question. For them, and maybe for Grandpa Jack, bridges and trucks are the things most worth talking about.

On the ride home, I was still wondering about the secret of being Grandpa Jack. I still am. Maybe it's too simple to be a secret. I think it will come to me if I just work harder.

In memory of Jack Nodwell

1917 - 2003

Father, grandfather, husband, friend.

Our guide and inspiration forever.

 

"The nature of adventure is that it doesn't happen at home." - Clair Brown

 

 

Last update 03-08-15

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